stroked4.6

Yep this is fuse related. I don’t know if your user manual shows but there should be a chart with the fuse box locations and fuse numbers along with their operations. Ill go on alldata for you at school and see what I get. When several devices stop working all at once its usually fuse related.

Problem Fixed!!!!!!

I put the new radiator in today with a few new sensors since this cooling system was very worn and not working properly. So much scale and rust. Well the gauge is fixed it needed a new coolant temp sensor. So I added the other temp sensor near the thermostat as well. There is also another sensor with 2 vacuum lines anyone know what this is? I also replaced the fan switch since the fans wont go on. My problem is the coolant fans still DO NOT work. I even turned the a/c on and no luck. The only way they work is if I disconnect the fan switch. I really don’t know what else to test or do with this car. Are there any Toyota techs on the board or any techs at all that could help me with this problem. The thermostat is working properly and I drove the car around a few blocks and the gauge goes to about 1/2 and didn’t go any higher. But I didn’t want to take it out any longer since the fans didn’t go on. I checked the relays and fuses quickly and they seemed good but ill double check tomorrow. My main question is why would they go on when disconnecting that switch but at no other time??? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Either cleaning the throttle body or you might have a problem with your IAC. Does your car ever stall out on you?

Im not sure which category this goes in so i figured I would post it where i post the most. Mod please put this in the right section. Im working on my bosses 93 Camry and he has a cooling system problem. He has a hole in the radiator and leaked coolant all over so he filled it up and drove it to and from work for some time. Well I looked at it yesterday and his cooling fans don’t go on either and his temp gauge doesn’t work. There is a cooling fan switch on the bottom of the radiator and if I disconnect that plug both fans go on. I'm thinking since the temp gauge isn’t working and the computer isn’t receiving a temp signal it isn’t turning the fans on. OR His fan switch is busted. Since the fans do go on when the fan switch is disconnected does that mean the switch is working? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks John

Dude the same thing happened to me about 3 months ago. I hit the racoon going about 70 mph and it cracked the bottom of the bumper and the splash shield was knocked off. Ive tried several junk yards with no luck. On mine there are two pieces to the splash shied and the part closest to the bumper cracked off. I haven’t had a track record with animals and driving so hopefully that was the last one. At least no other damage occurred. Just watch out for deer those will seriously damage your car.

The dealer could have been bull*BLEEP*ting you. I would go to autozone and get the code read yourself. Post what code came up and we could give you more help then. It could be something as simple as not securing the gas filler cap properly. Putting in a grade lower octane wont screw anything up. I’ve been putting 89 it in my car since I bought it 3 months ago and the previous owner was using regular fuel. I wouldn’t recommend regular fuel but nothing that detrimental will happen unless you go full throttle and really push the engine. Lower octane will cause pre-ignition or detination which you will be able to hear (sort of like a pinging on partial throttle and gets worse with acceleration). Unless your really pushing it you shouldn’t have a problem. Now if they put diesel fuel in your car that could possibly screw the cat up as well as plugs and some sensors but the car would run like crap and stall out. This actually happened to my sister (long story). I would trust the Midias guy in this situation. The "moving" sensor voltage are the oxygen sensors which control the a/f ration. The voltage signal is constantly changing. So i would put some 93 octane in and a fuel injector cleaner. Then get the code checked at autozone and post it online. Hopefully we will able to help.

I wouldnt spend the extra money. Seems like you got it covered. You might want to replace the fuel filter if you havent done that yet.

Well it could either be a bad distributor, wires, or spark booster. How many miles do you have on the car?

I have most of the dash apart at least all the pieces that come off (not entire dash) so I could see the starting and ending points off all the wires. My main problem is between the instrument cluster (left) and computer (right) its behind major parts I cant remove (metal brace and a/c components). Any ideas or oxygen sensor wiring diagrams i could use. Anyone know the color of the wire which goes to the back of the instrument cluster from the computer which controls the check engine light?

Well I got that 95 GS300 ECU and the car runs but that engine light is still on!!!!!!! Ive got the glove box out and many wires disconnected trying to find this problem. Im tracing wires back as far as they can go and the resistance in the wires seems fine. Im going to test for continuity next on all the wires. I spoke with my boss and he said this engine light only came on about a year ago or a little more. Im going to see what code is coming up now with this new computer. I was thinking maybe the light is grounded but no code would come up if that was the case. There has to be short or ground somewhere on this circuit its just a matter of tracing the wires back since they go throughout the dash. If anyone has any ideas please post and let me know. Thanks in advance John

You could do it yourself but itll take a lot longer. It’ll just take longer since you don’t have a lift. Ive done it in the driveway several times the most time consuming thing is to lift each side of the car. You just have to bleed each brake caliper until clean fluid comes out of the caliper. There are bleeding procedures so look it up before you bleed them. After you bleed each brake make sure to put more brake fluid in the reservoir so it doesn’t ruin dry and you have a major problem on your hands. Soak the bleeders in PB Blaster before you start so they loosen easier. If they are really rusted in there keep soaking them and you might want to try flare wrenches so you dont strip the bleeder. Make sure you us the correct brake fluid grade (Dot 3 or Dot 4)

I bought an OE Toyota O2 sensor and the light is still on. I was getting code 28 which is O2 sensor heating element. I ohmed the Denso sensor out and there was too much resistance so I figured a Toyota sensor would solve the problem. Unfortunately I have to do some more electrical testing tomorrow. I tested some of the wiring and it was good so now I have to trace a couple of the wires I couldn’t get to. I wasn’t able to get a couple pins for the ECU since the holes were too small even for paper clips so i guess Ill try some needles. I’ve got all the instructions from alldata on how to diagnose this so I guess if its not the wiring the last thing to do would buy a new ecu. I have credit to a junk yard and they have a 95 gs300 w/cali emissions so I guess that’ll be the next thing to do. Im hoping to finally be done with this car so I could start my other project. Im only a few bolts away from removing the Stangs engine!! As long as the numbers match I could drop in the new ECU (95 GS300 w/ Cali emissions) in my car with no problems right? I’ve got a 93 GS300 w/ Cali emissions. I previously installed this ECU quickly and the car started but would there be any other minor problems. The keyless entry doesn’t work anyway so im not worried about that.

I have the same question. I bought the car with this blueish tint on it and wanted to put black on. The tint is like 13 years old and it has two layers. The drivers window has two layers of film and the rear window is completely covered in bubbles and the rest of the windows began to peel. I want to put either 35 or 20% all around (except windshield) but i need to remove the old first. Anyone know how to remove old tint? Do you need to use a heat gun?

Was it bucking or making any strange noise before this happened? So its basically stuck in neutral now right? Usually when a transmission goes one gear will go out but not all gears at the same time. I think it might be torque converter related. If your torque converter is shot the car wont move. Make sure to check the shifter linkage like JPI said. But you really should service the transmission every 30K miles. If you dont the transmission/torque converter will burn out prematurely.