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Is A K&n Air Filter A Good Idea In The Rx300?


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If you like replacing and/or cleaning the oil residue from the downstream intake sensor, airflow velocity sensor, the "hot wire" mass airflow sensor, and the intake airflow temperature sensor each and every time you re-oil the K&N, then by all means, GO FOR IT!

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If you like replacing and/or cleaning the oil residue from the downstream intake sensor, airflow velocity sensor, the "hot wire" mass airflow sensor, and the intake airflow temperature sensor each and every time you re-oil the K&N, then by all means, GO FOR IT!

I just gotta disagree with this oil problem thing. I've run K&N or TRD drop in filters in 4 different cars over the last 10 years and never had any problems with oil getting on sensors.

Of course, the cleaning and re-oiling needs to be properly done, but most anyone who can change their filter, and follow instuctions, and not get really impatient ought to be able to do that.

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I have had a K & N air filter in the last 3 cars I have owner & never had any problems even after re-oiling. I agree that many (NOT all) have had problems due to the fact they have 'over oiled' the filter. I have personally that I have saved money in the long run by using this filter with very good results & even a slight gain in fuel economy. I say go for it! B)

:cheers:

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I'll bet K&N has a huge vacuum to provide continuous high velocity airflow to "vacuum" excess oil from their filters before they package them.

And don't forget, it the oil that traps the particles, the particles that the filter's pores are too large to catch, that might otherwise do damage to your engine.

Too much oil, or not enough....

All for about a 3 to 5% engine performance improvement, and that only at WOT and max, top end, engine RPM.

But then you do get lots of engine intake ROAR, thrown in for FREE!

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With a lower pressure drop across the filter, due to having a greater filter area, with porosity no greater than that of a stock filter, plus a greater depth of filter media, the K&N or TRD type filters are not only less restrictive, but also do a better cleaning job. And that's the truth of it. <_<

Noise? I don't know from noise. I've always used the filter that replaces the stock one in the airbox. If anything, the aftermarket filtters even get a better seal around the edges, due to their edge construction. :)

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I was gonna upgrade to a K&N air filter in my 00 RX, does anyone know if there is improved gas milage or any resaons not to go K&N?

thanks for any help

The primary advantage is cost savings. It takes only a few replacements of OEM filters before the K&N could've been paid-for. From then-on, the savings from not having to replace the filter just eep adding up. I have K&Ns on two of my vehicles and a synthetic-fiber Halltech filter (huge) in my Corvette, and have been using K&Ns in my former 68 Corvette for over 20 years.

While it is true that over-oiling the filters in newer vehicles may cause drivability problems (if MAF wires get coated), oiling according to the directions, along with a long enough saturation period, will result in a trouble-free intake system.

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"Never had any problems......"

Did you learn that by "listening" to the engine ECU??

I don't know of any other way to tell if the intake sensors are providing misinformation to the engine ECU. The downstream oxygen sensor is correcting the mixture via "burn" information.

Look at all the folks that are selling simple and inexpensive "chip" add-ons to increase HP. All their mod does is lie to the engine ECU during WOT operations about the temperature of the incoming airflow.

A continuous "lie" would be adjusted out automatically due to the mixture correction feedback from the downstream oxygen sensor.

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"Never had any problems......"

Did you learn that by "listening" to the engine ECU??

I don't know of any other way to tell if the intake sensors are providing misinformation to the engine ECU. The downstream oxygen sensor is correcting the mixture via "burn" information.

Look at all the folks that are selling simple and inexpensive "chip" add-ons to increase HP. All their mod does is lie to the engine ECU during WOT operations about the temperature of the incoming airflow.

A continuous "lie" would be adjusted out automatically due to the mixture correction feedback from the downstream oxygen sensor.

Hey look man, I put 100,000 miles each on three vehicles, one LT1 Firebird and two Hondas. Never had a minutes'trouble with any of those cars. Right now I've got 33,000 on my IS300 and no problems. There are limits to what a ECU will do before it throws a CEL, so I consider your claims baloney. You leave out quite a bit of what's done as normal mantenance. If you had a bad experience with over oiled filters, that's your problem to deal with. Please don't come around telling me I don't know what the *BLEEP* I'm talking about, ok? End of story dude.

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For $50 I guess why the hell not. I just wont spaz out with the oiling of the filter

Does the K&N increase proformance or throttle responce ?

Its not going to be like you put on a turbo or something, but there should be some improvement.

If you reset the ECU when you install the K&N, you may see some difference. If not resetting, it may take some time. Since it comes pre-oiled, you won't probably have to worry about oiling for 15,000 to 30,000 miles anyway. :D

The trick to cleaning and oiling is to just spray the filter oil on, then let the filter sit overnight. If there are any white spots, touch them up. Just be patient, and let the oil soak in, then wipe off any excess or droplets. While waiting for the filter oil to migrate, use a standard filter in the car if you need to drive it in the meantime. Anyone that's had problems probably got in a hurry and soaked the filter and then stuck it right back in and drove.

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I noticed better gas mileage too after ECU adjusted to the K&N. There is a web site that reports comprehensive filtration tests of OEM paper filters vs aftermarket cotton/oil filters. The conclusion: you trade better air flow for more dust particles going into the engine. K&N actually filters better than most aftermarket filters.

Sorry I can't find the link but it is done by an Oregon guy.

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Lets see at $5 a filter at the auto parts store, change the filter every 30k miles. Thats 10 filter changes 300k miles for your $50 (K&N price also) not sure just how you can save too much money with the K&N unless you change your paper alot sooner or keep the car past 300K.

Here is a link to some tests I ran across awhile back on another board. Hope the link to another board is ok with managment.

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ult...ic;f=3;t=007856

Jeff

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Lets see at $5 a filter at the auto parts store, change the filter every 30k miles. Thats 10 filter changes 300k miles for your $50 (K&N price also) not sure just how you can save too much money with the K&N unless you change your paper alot sooner or keep the car past 300K.

Here is a link to some tests I ran across awhile back on another board. Hope the link to another board is ok with managment.

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ult...ic;f=3;t=007856

Jeff

I was paying $10 per filter for a Nissan Quest back in 94, so if you can find even a Fram filter for the RX330 for $5, then I would say "Let everyone know where to get them for that price, please!"

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"Never had any problems......"

Did you learn that by "listening" to the engine ECU??

I don't know of any other way to tell if the intake sensors are providing misinformation to the engine ECU. The downstream oxygen sensor is correcting the mixture via "burn" information.

Look at all the folks that are selling simple and inexpensive "chip" add-ons to increase HP. All their mod does is lie to the engine ECU during WOT operations about the temperature of the incoming airflow.

A continuous "lie" would be adjusted out automatically due to the mixture correction feedback from the downstream oxygen sensor.

Well, in my case, I had my new intake-equipped Corvette dynoed recently and it put down 329 RWHP and 352 RW torque - higher than any other similarly-equipped Corvette and appreciatively higher than my car when it had only a factor dry filter (316RWHP and 336RWTQ).

I'd say, it is running very well with an oiled filter. :cheers:

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RX400h, Auto Zone sells the fram on sale for 2 for $6 quite often, like twice a month. So there you go. Now I haven't bought one yet for my RX so I might be wrong on this model I am going on the ones I've used on my hondas.

Jeff

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RX400h, Auto Zone sells the fram on sale for 2 for $6 quite often, like twice a month. So there you go. Now I haven't bought one yet for my RX so I might be wrong on this model I am going on the ones I've used on my hondas.

Jeff

Jeff, are you sure you're talking about air filters and not oil filters? The only air filters I've seen for $3.00 have been no-name brand filters, not Fram. Mmmm, maybe I'll ask when I bring my used oil in this weekend.

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Without knowing what the engine output is sans any intake filter at all, and with an OEM filter, these comparisons seem meaningless.

"BHP Gains..."

Without a baseline, dyno measurement as delivered, OEM filter and all, how can these numbers be considered valid??

Porsche engines are dynoed at the factory and if the output doesn't fall within +/- 10% then the engine is torn down.

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Lets see at $5 a filter at the auto parts store, change the filter every 30k miles. Thats 10 filter changes 300k miles for your $50 (K&N price also) not sure just how you can save too much money with the K&N unless you change your paper alot sooner or keep the car past 300K.

Here is a link to some tests I ran across awhile back on another board. Hope the link to another board is ok with managment.

http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ult...ic;f=3;t=007856

Jeff

I bought K&N drop-in filter at www.ajusa.com for $35.86 with free shipping. $5 is for air filter not oil filter?

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