mburnickas

Either degree, you will have homework, senior projects etc. It is not easy either way...Everyone is different. I thought vibrations and Fluids was easy...Everyone said they were hard. Then you get in masters programs, there are easier then undergrad... No mater the degree, I figure on avergae it was (1) hour per credit of homework per class. So, a (4) credit class would be four hours of homwork till next class..and so one.

You will damage your transmission if u mix it with anything else other than Dexron III. Drain and fill with fresh dexron III or just flush with dexron, but DONT put that other stuff in your trans, also put a trans filter on to prolong your transmissions life. I do not understand your post..you can have a synthetic DEX3 and a dino DEX3... I have mixed both when going to synthetic since 1996...never had any issue. Fluid basetock you will not have issue, not fluid spec's it passes and types is a different issue.

you are in two completely different fields. I have a few degrees in Mech Eng and business is way in “left” field. The first 2 years of any Uni or college are all the same (mostly) same AUC (writing, reading) or junk classes. Need to make the $350 to $400 per credit some how. Then you get into the real stuff that separates the majors, girls to boys. As someone said above, I hope you like math which is 100% true. When I look back, Cal is easy. It is the eng math, diff eq and discrete math that is a killer...sad part is you will never use it. Business end, you will be lucky to use Cal 1! But on the flip side I have put my resume online and got many job offers. Eng has many diverse areas and the thinking is all the same. If you have the degree that will want you. Yes, there are more jobs in business, but I know what these people make at my work...Dollar for dollar, I will take eng unless you care about titles. Plus it is easy to outsouce business then eng jobs per say. Maybe I am “pro” eng but I see all these “managers” at work and know that they make. First day on the job, business people have Manager with no experience. Some are high and some low (pay wise). I also know people that make easy 80 to $140 per hour with no degress in eng. I do not know if getting into a “university” is easy. Depends on SAT’s if full time. If you are going at nights, maybe. But if that was the case. I would have gotten in Harvard, Yale or MIT if it was that easy.

You may or maybe get more MPG, but FP60 DID increase my car over 1 MPG and my wifes almost 1 MPG. It saves me $$$$ everytime I use it.

got more in last week:

No clue on the others but it does make the surface shine and very slick! I wonder how it will work in winters......Thanks for calling my attention to these products...Now I have MAJOR OCD with detailing stuff! I have not tried Protectall or EW...I guess if I buy a gallon it (ONR) is the cheapest per wash...from a autopia review.... I was going to buy a gallon of ONR but I am not going through this 32 oz too fast with all of Jeff's products, gallon of Poorboys S&W (and S&G). I have QD'ed my car with Acrylic Glos from JW (4) times and only used 2 ounces. I have two 16 oz bottles of this one and his QW....Never mind the others. I have also a gallon of Chemcial Guys Pro detailer (for wifes car) and it works pretty good. It is in-inline with Poorboys S&W but adds some wax to it.

Thanks :D I do really like JW products. Problem is the QD are so easy and so is Optimum No Rinse and shine that it is hard to see which one is quicker and better. So far using JW quick wash is nice every 3 days.Takes 5 mintes and 25 "squirts"..but who is couting. Also have some Optimum Compound Hyper.gotta try that...Some people on autopia say it is hust like the normal stuff. ....so, we will see. thanks again...

Sold what? I thought you sold you Es for a outback or something? Maybe I am way off here Ah, that would be Lexusfreak who sold his ES for a Subaru Forester. too many people with "L's" in there names!!!!LOL

Sold what? I thought you sold you Es for a outback or something? Maybe I am way off here

lexusk8 - I thought you sold it?

How can they state they are real from Germany when they are re-based bulbs?

This is WEIRD!!!My co-worker has a 99 that does the samething. Only comes on when he hits the brakes and all bulbs are working....

The bypass has been talked about here and other forums like BITOG (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?) It looks like Toysrme did a full-flow re-located and not a by-pass filter with a full-flow....Unless Fram makes a by-pass, not that I know of. Problem I see is there (bypass) are too costly. Add up the bypass filters, oil testing (with all elements etc), normal full flow filters, bypass itself, make up oils…..It adds up quick. It will take you years to even brake even (if you ever do). Plus a bypass not will stop sludge nor dissolve it etc. If you want to clean sludge etc, motor oil is not it. You need seaform, MMO, diesel or better LC20 or AutoRX. which Lc20 and AutoRX condition seals; oils and the others do not. Yes, synthetic oils have esters (which can clean) but the amount in oils does not do much. IF you like a bypass stick with it and I respect that. For me I looked at it years ago and every few years, and it is cheaper to use PAO oil, good full-flow oil filter and something like LC20 in the oil. All this, I am still ahead of the bypass 8-ball on costs.

why do you think they (mounts) need replacing?

Did you vac the line to start with?

http://www.lubecontrol.com/ I started using it since Terry at Dyson Analysis liked it.So far he is right..

I was using Amsoil for a short time, 15 years. There price hike again (7-1-2006) is making it too expensive Amsoil ASL is $5.55 per qt (dealer price) WITHOUT shipping & tax. So 5 qt , s/h and tax (for me) is like $36 Mobil 1 SUV is $23.06 total (delta of $12 in savings per car). Plus the ZDDP, CA, Mo etc are all VERY close. Many members here use Mobil and like it. So I am now on the bandwagon..:) These debate of Mobil vs Amsoil is on BITOG and here. Both are good and they both buy there adds from the same place. Do a search since I really do not want to turn this into a debate. When it was cheaper Amsoil was a better deal, now with the price hike, I think Amsoil is too much $$$ for upfront numbers and what I see from tests (mine). Plus after looking for years on the UOA, results are close. I will be testing Mobil in my car (normal process) and see how it does. I know my car EATS the add pkg up BIGTIME (due to poor engine design); the 4+ years of tests show that. I know LC20 makes Amsoil really better (as my last tests showed) and all wears dropped. That put a very bad taste in my mouth about Amsoil. So it will be neat to see how Mobil does then test again with Lc20.

You get 10% off but even with that their prices are STILL higher then most, big time. Example: ClearKote Quik Shine Quart they want ($15.95 or $14.35 with 10% off) @ Pakshak I just bought it from another dealers for $11.95 and others are $9.95 Another: Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 32 oz ($16.95 or $15.25 with 10% off) @ Pakshak I just bought it from another dealers for $14.95 from others, normal price...Others are $13.95 Another: Poorboy's Spray and Wipe Waterless Car Wash 16 oz: ($8.95 or $8.05 with 10% off) @ Pakshak I just bought some for $3.95 normal prices on another website. They have a nice website but again way over-priced I feel. It's about dusting off an otherwise clean car, not detailing the finish. Very true but why not take the <5 minutes and clean and add some pop/depth? If you like the Ca Duster then keep or stay with it. Once you find something you like stay with it.

I thought (maybe wrong here) Mobil also makes GM and honda oils? Lastly,, Quaker State = Hyundai and Suzuki oils Do not know if both match or not...I know there was (2) threads on this overthere http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...t=004072#000000

I have 6500K in my tractor and they are kind of blue. I HAD phillips 6000K in my car, very blue from a distance. Removed them for safety issues. Like Steve, you can buy $190 to $250 orsam on ebay cheap.

I've used those too........also no problems. ;) I use no name from staples (100 spindle)...work just fine for my baby songs to keep little one from having a melt down; along with daddy!

Not too back for over 100K miles and always on the road (MA summer and winters) 1. Washed (Optimum No Rinse and shine) 2. Clayed using Magic Clay and Blue Mist Final Wipe as Lube 3. Optimum Compound with Lake county white pads (using Makita 9227C rotary-1200 rpms) 4. Jeffs Werkstatt Prime Strong (4 hours dwell, then wipe off by hand with MF towel); used about 1 oz 5. Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger; 2 caots WOWO then site 15 hours for coat 3; (used about 0.75 oz) **I LOVE Jeffs stuff 6. ClearKote Quik Shine on windows 7. Tires PoorBoys Natural Dressing (trying) *** added pix now!

yeah I did take out the one after the engine, so how do I know which sensor is bad in the first place? Most times they are not bad, but slow. You can test (while on car) on fast they can change volts. Don't feel bad in 4 years I have yet to find a rad car (from the dealer) that fits..

I remember reading on autopia that Toyota offers xylion (paint sealer) that was to last 5 years; but for the price.... I do not put much faith in CR. There wax tests is ok for the average joe, but for serious people who want serious products, not the best test to go by.

I would do it every 3 to 5 months. I doubt very highly it will last that long. SG is good but lacks in some areas (depth etc). I would get some nuba (ex: Natty's Blue or maybe Collinite 825) on it and then maybe some QD (for some pop).QD would be like Clearkots is good, FK425, Poorboys S&G, Chemical Guys (many), ............