mburnickas

I have never flushed a tranny since I have been driving. I always drain and refill with proper synthetic fluid. Then I drain between 25 to 35K and do it again. Samething over and over.

I agree and cheaper too.

- I like the weekly wash it ONR. Easy 15 to 20 mintues - I clay, polish and seal (Acrylic) every 3 months using JW. No nuba here :D - Also use OC every year

I do a drain (tranny and diff) and it takes about 3.75 qts.

I would assume so, but I haven't looked under the hood of an 05/06. steviej WOW..bringing out the old-school threads!

I thought Toyota did not like flushes of atf since they most times do more harm? Unless the Tranny and diff changde from my 98, how can you flush a diff (when it is integral to tranny)? Plus it only holds like <1 qt. Trying to help but you can do everything on the list yourself. 1. Transmission Flush (I would not do it). Just use some synthetic ATF and call it a day. Drain every 25 to 30K miles. 2. Coolant Flush - Use 50% RO/DI water and vinegar and run for like 20 minutes; drain and refill with Ro/DI water only and run for 20 minutes; drain and refill with proper coolant. 3. Differential Flush <-- what is this? See #1 4. Brake Flush (Dot 3? or Dot 4?)- Use either or...You can use DOT 4 in DOT 3 but not visa versa. I use an extractor adn do each wheel cyl every year. 5. Power Steering Flush- I use an extractor and suck all the stuff out or reservoir. Then refill every year. If not, around here the Lexus and Toyo dealers are the same prices.

Maybe I am wrong but they are the same. I just installed a new cabin filter on my 98. $19 for a wix filter.Takes about 5 minutes.

Welcome to LOC! It is cheaper to fix then replace with radio.

Ok, Pad price is a little high (cheaper on another site for OEM); but, I guess the older Es needs some shims. I know my 98 had the shims integral to the pads (back) and the price was about 1/2 of Lexus-parts

Since I've never had the brakes on this car opened up, how are the shims used and what is contained in the fix kit? Unless I am way off the $80 sounds high for the front pads. Also does not the shis come installed on the pads themselves? Also what is this fix kit?

no. All the items are "ala cart"

I like Mobil EP, Amsoil and Redline. For best $$$ for long drains is Amsoil hands down. For Moly in group a 5, Redline is it. For a low cost "up to 15,000" miles, Mobil is good. For a few more dollars Amsoil can do "up to 25,000" miles. The call is in the UOA for me. I state the following since Mobil EP around here is $28.97 for 5-qts. Amsoil (ASL) at a local (race) store is $6.25 per QT. So that is $31.25 for 5-qts. But as Toysrme stated "Chinamart" full synthetic is $13.98 around here for 5-qts. Heck I am using it right now :) and going to compare to my old Amsoil ASL tests (4) with same miles; however, I am using LC20 so I want to see how it does. Like always, will post UOA when complete. There is not best oil here. You need to see what fits your budget then see what works for YOU in your application.

Due to ester levels in synthetic, it is designed to "stick to metal"; that is a good thing. But even though it "sticks" (as steve stated) it will flow much better/faster/easier then dino at lower temps. In theory if both oils have the same cP, then both should get that in the same time. But that does not happen since both oils are diff.

Not ONR or Lc pads! How dare he! LOL side note, MODS might want to move to correct forum. (show/shine or detail?)

No clue; but, I think when the word "crap" was posted, it was all down hill...LOL

I agree that it shouldn't be ticking, but I'd have a better chance of winning the lottery than having any dealer find/fix/ let alone admit to a problem based on ticking. The oil did look clean when i purchased the car, probably because the seller just changed it. I'm not even sure if the loud idle has anything to do with sticky lifters, that assumption was just based on someone's two cents. I appreciate all the feedback though, thanks! I guess I'll give the Ralley Dealership in NY a shot. As I have stated before oil color is not integral of anything. In all due respect the state of Texus gave Lube control millions to devopled there product called Fp. Also the oil testing house called dyson analysis does not think this stuff is "crap". Also some chemist seems to like it. So case-in-point, I would do some reading before calling anthing "crap".

How does a rinse cause leaks? If it does, you have seal issues WAY before a flush. The sludge was covering the leak. The flush cleaned the crap out and exposed the leak (that was always there). So doing a flush does not cause leaks. So has anyone here done a flush or even a few UOA to see what a flush does??? I doubt it very much.

I'm with you on this. I can almost hear the crankshaft bearings rapping. Keep in mind that sometimes an engine will sustain almost any kind of abuse. Sometimes, you end up at the junk yard looking for an engine. It is funny that i assume you both have not tried it nor have pulled a UOA after either. I guess all the people that have done it all all wrong and have bad engines...LOL Gee and some user diesel fuel too. As I stated an SM oil will do zero, nothing etc to clean and engine.

thanks Sw and VB.

It does not hurt anything. You are doing this for a few minutes to flush it out. Again, do a search on here or on BITOG. Hundreds of people doing this. Example, what do you think Amsoil engine flush is? Is it mostly kerosene. Here is one from here. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=kerosene+flush http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post731598 http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post305883 http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/sho...true#Post297910 Here is a car using 55K miles with Amsoil (63K total on car). All UOA came back good but Amsoil or any oil does not clean. That is not its job. Redline is the best for Ester (17%) and it would take forever to clean out anything (if it did). If this was the case, the below picture AFTER a flush would not look like that.

newlexusparts.com

Nope, not kidding. Do a search here (this forum or BISTOG) Most engine flushes ARE kerosene. A modern SM rated oil, even a group 5 synthetic will not clean..sorry. I used Lc20 on my lexus, wifes car and my Kubota tractor…I did this based on advice from my oil testing house. I have pictures too. djspawn00' I like Lc20 for a flush (16oz) AND then dding 2 oz every 1,000 miles to engine oil. It WILL remove carbon, sludge, clean rings, keep acids in oil down (near zero), reduce wear (bigtime) etc.

You can use that, MMO, kerosene, Lc20 etc. My best advice would be to use eitehr LC20 since I have done that. Keep using it in the oil (as directed) and it will get rid of sludge and keep it away.

I know too funny. I can bring in a "diaper genie" talk if you want? LOL The lawn needs soft and happy water too! LMAO..at about 1" per week. Yup a "Bota" Cool. Your lawn will look mint with the selective herbs. If you want some help with the stripes let me know. I had to add this. Me putting in a rose tree (Joke).... :whistles: :whistles: :whistles: