mburnickas

I would do a search since this comes up every 6 or so months. The big facture is where you live.Different parts of the country are more/less. FYI, I padi $740 out the door at lexus (toytota, owned by same people was the same price). Other prices I got where $900 for water pump and TB and up to over 1,200 ( i Boston) for what I paid 740 (in western MA). In hartford CT it was almost 600 for TB alone. Look around and call some places. HINT HINT. I know I did and it saved me some serious jingle.

he was a pix on mine. Old vs new....pretty easy to tell

I use this: http://www.lubecontrol.com/fuel.htm

I had the same issue. Replaced mine for $14 and all gone. I would replace rear swaybar bushings since it is the cheapest item first.

Have you look at the engine oil?

Even Dyson Analysis said to use the cheap gas in the my ES300. I only use FP60 in my gas (add) and so far, the $0.20 delta in price is saving me money....

So do you want to use these just for Mpg?

I agree I was too. I know that is has paid for itself with MPG gains. I still would talk to terry on it since I am not the oil guru here. I know some about oils but fuel, nope. I only starting using it from bob people and from him.

Talk to Terry at Dyson on it. So far,I think, Fp60 is the only add (for gas) he pimps. so far it does not effect UOA either in bearing areas for example like most adds. Cleaning part is only the top of pistion and rings (but will take a long time) Better off with LC or ARX. Fp will clean and be combustion enhancer along with adding lubricity to the fuel. If it is cleaning you will see lower insolubles readings, lower soot/solids, nitration, and oxidation. Means it is cleaning and keeping it clean and helping burn...So far FP has saved me money on fuel. UCL does the almost the samething; but, for me it is more money per gallon.

where you going downhill the complete way! :D :D :D

I hope and maybe think Deepcreep (sprayed onto inner surface) will do better?

I would not say that. I still have 34 lbs of R12! :) Most people bought A LOT before the cut off date about 8 years ago.

I know after 2 "treatments" I looked inside the intake via TB; still 90% dirty. Going to try some deep creep and let soak. Then run for about 15 minutes and drain oil.

some pixs of todays dust storm! This WAS treatment #2 of 1/3 seafoam. Removed brake booster and sucked in. then shut off car ASAP. Let sit 10 minutes then started.

just did the wifes car! WOW, did it smoke (white) pretty bad. Based on color and BITOG, engine was clean. Drove it down the road and back (about 4 miles). Kept RPM's above 3K...After about 2 miles [smoke] was done. Any diff; so far no. I will do my ES tonight.

Toys...thanks for the tips. I suppose if I buy a Lexus ES repair guide (any particular recommended?) I could figure out how to locate, remove and then clean all these parts you've mentioned. You will turn me into an auto mechanic shortly. Much obliged. The TB is easy to clean along with the IVAC. It is one here somewhere. The PCV I would just replace. It is like $6 for an OEM part (to your door).

Do not have on BUT when I got my ES, 4-years ago, Herb Chambers near B-town wanted around $600 for the clear bra.

Toysrme - Since you are the seafoam expert here, after I do 1/3 can in brake booster line do I need to do a oil drain? Does this process add or hurt anything on plugs? I was reading online and it said something like I need to watch out for O2 sensors and plugs. reason: I am in the middle of an Auto-RX phase right now. So wanted to know if I should wait till "done all the way", or wait till "right before I end the cleaning phase then clean with seafoam. All I want to do is clean the dirty intake.... I know many like adding it to the oil but I am taking other routes. (lc20 and ARX) . Going down to Advanced auto to see if they have it; napa did not.

Going to Seafoam this weekend! The way you all talk about it I feel like I'm going to have a brand new car rather than the 94 ES I have currently afterwards! Or...perhaps closer to it than now. Trying to restore acceptable gas mileage (getting 14mpg city now) with this (also replaced O2 sensor 1)...how much success should I expect? It's going in the gas and oil as well as brake booster. No clue. I no there is no way that I would add it to my oil. I was reading on BITOG and even the chemist guys say no. Maybe they are wrong. I would use a safer fluid (solvant) in my oil; but that is me. If you do use it. I would run for about 15 minutes (as a flush, then drain). But the brake booster is the way to go. Wow, 14 city is pretty bad. Have to cleaned the TB or IVAC at all? PCV

did you change the O2 sensors and spark plugs if this is your first cleaning?

bring up the old-school thread! :) But after you seafoam (going to try brake booster feed) do you need to change the oil?

Unless you removed the valve covers both times, you are not seeing 60% of the real results here. The clues are in the oil pan, puck-up screen and oil tests. 100 to 1 your TBN of S2000 is low with these little miles, viscosity is high if not in next grade, OXD and NOX are normal and wears are average at best. I could/can get same numbers with a group3 oil or a dino with $2 of LC20 (with 50 to 100% less wear). Amsoil is good on extended drain but wear results on yours and my engine could/can be drastically reduced using other methods, not Amsoil 100%. I have used Amsoil for 15 years and every oil they make on gas and diesel engines (and motorcycles); a long time here. Even have there Series 3000 in my tractor and it is good but not worth the money. I even was a dealer (6 years) but you look for better products out there. If you are waiting to have Amsoil clean, you will be waiting a LONG time. The ester count is too low to do anything. It prevents sludge etc, not cleans. That is the design function of the oil. It prevents sludge (with adds etc) and adds other thing. A better selection would be to clean, still low, would be a HDEO; but, it will not clean per say. You need a 100% all ester base, LC20 or tear down and use something like a Reliable hydrocarbon solvents –Cyclohexanes, Kerosenes or Heavy aliphatic napthenes, Example: Here is a family car that has Amsoil 100% synthetic for 5+ years using a OLM; I take care of. It was all black inside the complete time over 41,000 miles using Amsoil oil and filters! Amsoil does not clean. It is starting to get clean in this pix due to using Auto-RX, not Amsoil. I have done too many tests (on various engines) and have seen my own valve covers. Was it clean, sure but not "CLEAN". I thought like you did, until I tried LC20 last year based on Dyson Analysis comments.I am now tring Auto-RX to clean and LC20 to prevent other things. After 100 miles using LC20 in Amsoil, it was “tar black” on my ES (and other engines). What does that mean? It (LC) is cleaning and removing carbon, sludge etc that Amsoil or any synthetic could not. Redline has a higher ester base then Amsoil; that would perform better in this area; but you will need about 20K miles to do what LC could do in 2,000 miles. If it [Redline or Amsoil] did anything at all. I am/was doing 10 to 12K drains and Amsoil worked. But again there oil is getting to high priced along with the EAO filters. And the tests showed it could get better using other oils and adds along with low price methods. Here are some pix to what looked very good/clean using Amsoil all the time; before LC20 and Auto-rx. Then I added LC20 and the Amsoil was black (not shown). Now using Auto-Rx and the oil went in clear on dipstick! after 550 miles it look like brown honey! I will take some pix tonight of the oil. The car would last WELL over my use but other items I use make the engine smoother, more power and more MPG (FP60). Again, if you have done some oils tests you would think differently on Amosil oils. I like their products, as you but they are not worth $5 to $8 dealer cost per qt. I can do 2 oil changes using Mobil 1 then (1) Amsoil and still have better numbers all around/ Nevermind the shipping price either. If you used LC20 you WOULD reduce your wear #’s more then Amsoil could have dream. These are from results, not speculation. If you look at Amsoils UOA, you will see it is good but Mobil, Redline etc can keep up with them, and at lower prices. Something to think about if not FYI. :D

I agree and I personally think you are only “saved” with minimal sludge, note not zero, is their Series 2000 has a little better adds and more shear stable. You would / could have a better outcome (if you tested) using there cheaper oil and LC20. Based on my use of this product, it keeps amsoil from thickening and wear rates are better then any oil they make. I would also just run Mobil and save some money. Even use a dino with LC and I bet 100 to 1, it will outperform Amsoil or Mobil alone. After use Lc and Amsoil, Amsoil is good but not that good. Plus it is getting overpriced. But as most know I am pro oil analysis. So unless you have some oil data (with a baseline), you are guessing out your wazoo.

The prices I quoted were from www.newlexusparts.com. I don't think you will find anyone who will sell OEM Lexus parts cheaper, and they pay shipping. The pad prices are certainly higher than you will pay for non-oem pads; however, brake pads is one of the few things that I think use of OEM is important. What really irks me is the price of the shim kits. These things are eight pieces of very thin metal. The Lexus profit margin on these must be astronomical. Just wondered since my ES pads from them are much cheaper.

I think your post will be removed since this is your first post (selling).