mburnickas

Do a search on this topic. There good oil and not so good oils. Out of the two oils here, SM rated and short drains, I would have to select none. I would go with Halovine P or Q. Problem with these oils are there HTHS are low, NOVACK is pretty high, pour point are not that great etc. But if your application does not have some of these then you should be fine. I would either add LC20 to your oil or Auto-Rx. These items come reccomended from my oil testing house.

Yes. It should since it is Hydroflouric acid based product. AKA do not get it on your hands. It does work mint. I sprayed it on my wheels (and the inside) and they look new.

I use PB Wheel cleaner. Just spray on wait and rinse.

Toysrme is the man yet again! :D

RJF - I would just use distilled vinegar. Also some good sealants or wax would also help.

so I take it you use Stoners? :whistles:

I use ClearKote Quickshine

I think you would be fine. Anything that gets in the oil will burn off or be filtered. PLus it is only 3K miles.

I had a few of the websites (some below). Really it does not matter how they are made, for the most part.You need a few inportant parts and the rest is a bonus. In some applicaitons not needed. You need to compare filtering capability and efficiency for at least to get in the ball park. They to REALLY COMPARE you need to spend the $15 to $20 to test the oil. That is the only way to know for sure you are correct or not. Remember you need to take these studies with a grain of salt. Everyone knocks Fram; my last oil test on my bike was low, lower then my car and my bike gets driven very hard and redline is 12K rpms. Again you need to try and test what works for your application. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...ic;f=6;t=000513 http://www.sadik.net/nissan/howto/oil_filter_study.html http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterst...tudy-mopar.html http://www.realbig.com/miata/1996-01/1504.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

as much as I hate their price they are the best oil filters out there. Gonna do a test with the wix soon, they install a OEM and test. I will post them when done. That warm tingly feeling..I like JD or Chopin for that! LOL My LS has 285,000 miles. My car has had Toyota filters from day one, and I'm not about to think about switching now because it has obviously worked well for the past 11 years. I used K&N filters a few times, but they just aren't priced right. I made a point of looking at other non oem brands of oil filters for my car when I was at the store the other day, and they were all $3-$4, so their isn't much of a savings factor in my situation. I agree if you are doing low drains OEM shipped for $4 is a good price. I would personally take a KN filter over OEM but that is me. Or better yet compare ADM spec on the filters (aka batio ratios) or see how good they are with testing. Any oil filter will work to some extent; even fram will. I had some low wear numbers using Fram on my bike. I went to wix since it was 50% less.

All Lake Country pads! :D for the Makita...

I was thinking about buying a Cyclo. I love my Makita Rotary 9227C for my life but just like to buy a Cyclo and see how it does; faster, better shine etc. For the $259 (minus 10% to this) , why not.... I keep going back-and-forth with this.......Then agian I am buying lawn stuff like mad!

Not stirring the pot but what do people think OEM filters will buy? Again, I feel unless you are seeing the data from oil analysis you are "hoping here"........ Not causing a debate since $4 SHIPPED for an OEM is a good deal but I do not know what the $4 filter does that a $2 one does not; on normal drain (below 7,500 miles).

I agree. For the short drains most are doing Wix (napa – Gold) Pure one, etc will be just fine. Just look at the beta ratios of these filters and compare. Plus I get napa's gold for about $2.50 each. For longer drains I would use a better oil filter then anyone has named here. The material in these filters will not hold up too well. Then again you can should me links like in the original post but really mean nothing but ref only. You need to do oil testing to verify what fits your application. Right now I have Napa gold and doing an Auto-RX cleaning phase based on Dyson Analysis.

Gotta love their compounds and there no-rinse too!

Nothing to worry about but most adds will show up in oil tests if you do them. I used Amsoil PI for sometime and it made my oil test (wear numbers) go throught the roof. Used FP, and all gone.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...t=002944#000015 I use Fp60 since it does NOT effect oil testing numbers.

I would add look under the dash under (inline with steering column......)

In my eyes there is no best wax etc. It is all personal at this point. Plus it depends on what you are looking for. Some love waxes some love sealants. Some love the shine, some want depth, some what wetness etc. I would use the correct auto soap since it has proper PH and does not remove wax. I have some PB super suds brand new if you want it. Just pay for shipping. I use ONR now. I use Pooboys natural look on dash etc since it does not leave the cheap shine. Also use their leather stuff on seats. Smells like leather and cleanea etc. Use the stuff on all my leather in the house; great stuff. For plastic that is bad/lost shine outside the car I use Chemical Guys liquid extreme shine. I would check out there line. I have spent some $$$ there. Good stuff and price is good. Yes there is wax for wheels but I do not use it. I use Poorboys EXP on my rims after clearing with there rims cleaner (acid). Their rims cleaner is the best out there I feel. If removes tar, brake dust etc without doing anything but spray (wait 3 minutes) then rinse off.

Looks like a great price for the TB etc. My guess is he is making more $$$ on the tires. Either way you both will be happy...which is a great thing! :)

fuel filter is lifetime on Es300's. Also he would be lucky to find a TB and H20 pump for that price (w/out labor in the northeast form a L dealer. Spark plugs are like 45 minutes doing it yourself. Grab a case of beer or whatever and go to town and save the few hundred.

Go down a few topics, there is one there already. Also in my area Loaners are a no-go unless you pay for it or under the warrenty. it should be done in 1-day. Mine was dropped off at 8 am and done by 3 pm.

TRUE if >2001 NOT true if <2001 model year. So you are saying if the car is older than 2001 then a broken TB will not screw up the engine? I thought it would be the other way around. I think you are right. I was thinking that if the car is newer, >2001 you are bad bad ...........................................................If old then 2001, <2001, you are fine. Depends on how you look at it. I should be better at this.. Depends; My lexus dealer put a sticker inside the eng conpartment and it is in the puter at Lexus. It not lexus, you would need to see where he might have had it done. I also think you might bad able to tell by looking at it. Not you, but someone who knows what to look fo, unless you do. Maybe it is like a normal dive belt, I have no idea.

TRUE if >2001 NOT true if <2001 model year.

That is what I have in my Es300. The freaky weird part, off subject kind of is my gsxr1100 (1994) motorcycle has an NGK in the FSM AND denso #'s. Are they connected (business wise)?