mburnickas

You funny guy, you use Terry to try and besmurge a great oil company but when the guy is mad becasue the owner of LCD corp is illiegally using his name for marketing purposes he lets him know about it. You work for LCD or what? You back them no matter what, I wish I had a wife like you, lol. So lets sum up lubecontrol, they prebill peoples credit catds and don't send product for more than three months, the guy who you recommended I look up is mad at them for illegal use of his name, they don't know the benefits or applivations of their own products, well I could keep going on for pages but lets just say if you are going to put an additive in a high quality oil my recommendation is to go with a established big company product instead of a dink company like LubeControl LC20. Better yet, just use you synthetic with no additives and use your money for something more useful, like an education in Mburn's or should I say BrianW's case. :P Now Amosil is a great oil company. Do you use it?. Do you test it? and so on. I doubt very much, bigtime. You are the guy that thinks oil clarity means something too. Now that is funny. Because I use their product and do not whine about little things means I work for them (LC)? Do you work for Amsoil? I have posted several months ago what LC did for my Lexus using your “high quality oil”. Do you even own a lexus, use Amsoil or post anything in your own car (fact wise)???????? I know what Terry has told me via emails and PM's. It is normal for Terry to not support product online. He would say the samething about ARX too. Also what he has told me using LC and ARX too. Also why are you bring up BITOG crap over to this forum when the BITOG users KNEW well before hand it was a PRE-ORDER! Do not like it, do not order it (or pre-order it). You are very stuck on the pre-order of FP3000 (fuel add)here in an oil thread on another forum...LOL..who cares...

god but oils are diff and burn diff. Some oils burn a lot and some not. Amosil burns like @ 6% and some are over 18%.

Sure, i will take a bite. Was doing 10 to 12,000 mile drain using Amsoil ASL and Amsoil SDF. This is on my ES300 1998 model. The sludge engine...ohhhhhhhhhh Based on oil tests I have a good to clean engine.

Well yes they (amsoil) do. It is there Xl series. If you follow the manual, you will not have sludge. I think the sludge issue is WAY over blow. There are over 3,000,000 engines and a little over 3,000 sludge engines; that in percents is damn small. What does that say? Some do not follow the manual and make an issue. I am doing almost 2 times the drains WITHOUT LC and you see the pixs. I just started the LC about 6 months ago and only have one test. So far, people are crazy not to try it. Works wonders with a $6 per qt oil. If you use a SM rated oil and follow the "book, you will be fine.

Lol, since you asked about Terry from Dyson here is what he has to say about LCD corp (LC20 and FP60). "Jeff (LCD Corp), DO NOT publicly use my name or imply I have anything to do with working for or marketing for LCD without express permission before you do. I no longer consult for you nor do I authorize you to use my name or business name to promote or market for LCD. - Terry Um Opps. Terry from Dyson is not liking what is going on over down there at LubeControl. Maybe LCD didn't pay him like they did to BITOG last month. At least a few people are starting to get their pre-orders three months later. :chairshot: Did you grab it from BITOG too! ROFLMAO.... And that means...zero. Sorry but you fail to add any value to this thread. Terry will not promote anything "online"; which is fine. If you know anything, he was told not to promote anything on BITOG months (6 to 8) ago....But I know what I have via email. Sorry, the no liking LC and the slow shipping is getting pretty old here scrub... You really should do homework here .

Here is my old website: https://home.comcast.net/~sump/My_auto_RX1.html

I disagree. I have been doing 10 to 12,000 miles on my Es300 using Amsoil and look nice.Only way to find out is oil test. I am now using LC20 and a blend (group 3) and then compare. If you have sludge with short drain I would look in other areas like PCV etc; not oil. Not bad for long drains in a sludge motor.

Not knocking Auto-rx, but I used it in my Lexus and my wifes car. Noticed zero in my car and the wifes did nothing too (via pixs I took of inside VC). I then Flushed with LC20 and got way better. I would try seafoam first in oil, then LC20 then ARX. I do have a problem with the "inventer" frank. He cannot answer valid questions. Plus I think it is WAY over pimped on BITOG. I made a webpage about my results and boy did Frank get mad.

It would be quicker, better shine, slicker surf, "do at home/garage" and less cost to use ONR. But you need to find what works for you! :)

I agree:) I am just saying is that this oil gell issue is WAY overblown and I have a sludge engine (with zero sludge).

Please show me on your car. I have it and use it, have you? Also, in one post you say ONR causes marring and then you use QEW???? Again I have used both and ONR is slicker and has better shine.

Have you tried JW? Nattys in my eyes is all crap (all oil). Durability of Nattys is not even close to 5050 wax from my use on my lexus,wifes car and my tractor. I did three paint surfaces since all 3 are in different enviroments. Slickness, beading is about gone is 2 months or less. And yes I have used it both items. Also if you use Klasse and JW, I have, and JW is much easier to apply and better then any sealant I have used to date. Not saying I am right etc but I have spent some serious $$ in 2006 to find out. It is funny that most are going in another direction then Zaino on autopia. I have also used Souvern (they bought with my help) on my parents cars to try. Durability is about 50% of Nattys (pretty bad). It looks great but slickness, durability and longevity well, sucks. PS if you used Klasse and JW as a foundation of what they are made of is different. Honestly...... Zaino, as SW stated is too plastic looking for me for the pics I have seen.

This has to be your worst un-educated post yet! I know people that detail cars from $5,000 to over $150,000 and work great. Is this again your opinion?. If fact, please provide documetation since I have got to see this. No links to more people stuff ,yours. I guy on Autopia said the said that and took bullets from all sides.............

I use PB Wheel cleaner. Just spray on wait and rinse. If you use that on an expensive car your crazy, it will eat you paint if you make a mistake, and worse of all it is the most dangerous chemical used in detailing and in fact has killed many children. I would never recommend something like this! Not worth it IMO. Furthermore, Poorboys has such bad quality control they often put this junk in their other stuff by mistake, lol. That's what happens when you don't make your own products and just relabel cheap brands! http://autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/734...eaner+dangerous http://www.detailcity.org/forums/detailing...ght=spray+rinse http://www.carwash.com/article.asp?IndexID=6631269 Here we go again. Who cares about what you stated? Then again you love these old school topics to add whatever. Just like smoking too right and people keep signing up too. Many things can harm etc. Do not bring the scare tactics into it. ROFLMAO!!!! This is as good as the slow shipping on LC makes the complete product line bad. So now Pooboys quality is sooo bad, bad on (1) issue out of thousands posted online? The links you post are old and I have seen all when the came out. Just like Laundry detergent is bad if you looked into it and plastic too. LOL

I must add this. I think this oil gel is 100% BS. If you do normal changes with dino or use synthetic and go longer, you will be fine. Plus change you air filters when they need it along with oil. Do not forget PCV. ...important. This type of issue is not isolated to Lexus/Toyota. Happened to: VW Dodge Chrysler Audi

for chrome, I use cape cod metal polish.

Funny it has never come back. ........... But ha if it works for ya. I go by what works in detail shops and car dealerships. Plus I like to use multi-tasker tools. Not going to go buy another single event tool. Foolish.... plus these machines are not needed and way to dangerious. Ps. What is with the bro everything. I almost never use auto. It is always off in my car.If auto is on, I just hit the "vent" button (floor or dash) and it turns auto off. And yes, auto will hurt mpg since it is like running AC 100% The turning off AC "a few mile before stopping" (noted last page) trick was from whe I had my diesel truck. I thought it was something major (was not) and about a billion other diesel people had the samething

Problem was not the evap blocked; when you shut down the ac there is water/condensation in the sys. You WANT to dry the water out before stopping the car. If not, the water will collect and get mold etc. That most times is what you smell and nothing major. Thanks for the info but the ozone machined worked to kill the mold/bacteria. I also do not get when you stated you need a manifold to get into vents. If makes not sense since this huge ammount of O3 will get into the vents since most O3 units are made for homes/business, not a 50 sq/ft car. In this short duration of time, 30 minutes you will not hurt anything if you want up to 10,000 MG. If you did it day in/out yes, short duration of time, no. Damage will be brittle plastic and discoloration; but again, this would take years at the level and 24/7 I would also wonder why anyone would even think to use something that big in a car. You only need something about 100 to 200 MG in a car envir.

synthetic oil does not cause leaks. The leaks where, again where always there. Synthetic cleaned it out.

Not the spray!!!!!! :cries:

I have a Snapon micro scan. Worth every penny! http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostic...C307A&qty=1

I agree. It is built into the price of the car. I had a free change and I passed on it.

BMWWW + 1 for Jeff Werkstatt line. I love all their AJ line and prime. Low cost and if you use it correctly you WILL get 40 to 50 details out of a bottle. If you are getting only 20+ you need to thin it out. One of (2) orders. If I could not get JW line I would select Optimum Poli-Seal with there wax or Chemical guys 5050. I have been playing around, if you want pix let me know, I am topping AJT with CG 5050. Depth and wetness.!!!!

welcome to the forum! :) Just a thought, there is a FSM on this forum (see link below). Download it and have a look. Do not want to direct you to the wrong road. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=26449

I emailed this to a Amsoil Jobber to see if he knew what you were talking about and his response was this."LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL." He has never even heard of LC and he said AMSOIL is real oil because of years of R&D and millions of dollars in investing in real formulas. I guess it's your opinion that LubeControl has made a better product than AMSOIL with the money they have precharged their customers credit cards on? Lol. your ship is sinking with every post. AMSOIL is a great synthetic oil all by itself. Of course a dealer ($35 a year)would say that. They are promoting there oil (amsoil). Most dealers are clueless too. I was a dealer for over 10 years here. It is funny that a million dollar testing house (dyson analysis and well respected on BITOG) who tests thousands of oils is the one that advised to me to use LC. This is one of (2) products he ONLY advises people to use. Email Terry (owner of Dyson) on what he thinks; better yet, look at his pots on BITOG about Amsoil. He is right on. Amsoil is not all it is cracked up to be. Sorry Scrub