Toysrme

If you can't get to that one, use the other bolt. (Not the one that holds the pump t the backet, the one that hold sthe bracket to the block)

Good edit, nice new pics! Surround your picture links with the img tags so they show up as pictures. (img) www.picture.com (/img) Replace () with brackets [ ] Best to add a space, or two between pictures, they tend to run together without breaking up.

I never even knew it had a security code. God knows I pulled the battery out of the car enough times to have needed one. Dude just go to a dealer. They do that kind of *BLEEP* for free like any other dealer does.

At 125,000 miles, all o2sensors have long since been lazy & probably should have been replaced years prior to begin with, so I wouldn't complain too much. ;) I have one DOA at 107,000 miles & it's been bad for longer than that. Rear exhaust manifold, the passanger side of it. For replacing, it's the same as the front (2 bolts, pigtail connector). Good luck, it's very, very hard to wiggle down there from the top. It's a better job if you throw a towel over the engine & drop a 5 year old in the bay. If you have jackstands / ramps, there's less obsticals from under the car, but it's a little bit of a reach. Also, you don't want to try it if the car has ran any amount of time in the last two hours. The 1994 Toyota Repair Manual: You should exclusively use NGK, or Denso plugs. Other plugs will not perform correctly on Nippon-Denso style ignitions. (Like Bosch) More of the 1994 Toyota Repair Manual: It's time for a new timing belt & water pump. Anytime you change the T-Belt, might as well ditch the two drive belts.

Very easy.

Wait till you try to take off your first nut. ;)

The rubber air hose that runs to the throttlebody. The underside of the throttlebody is where it sits.

Small pictures suck. Here's the same pictures from CL, re-hosted. IAC instructions Here EGR instructions Here

Not this early. If it was blowing a lot of un-used gas into the cat, or someone was over-using all the types of cleaners then ya... You could clog, or burn one up. If troubleshooting results in requiring a new cat: Step 1 Do the ebay search HERE. Make sure you're buying a real unit, and not a test pipe / straight through / resonator. Step 2 Go to a reputable exhaust, or performance shop & have the new unit welded in. They: Unmount the old unit, saw the flanges off, weld them on (Hopefully lined up semi-correctly! hah!) & remount the unit. OBD-II / CA emession cars have a post cat o2 sensor to make sure emessions equipment is working. They'll have to take the o2 sensor out, grab an o2 exhaust bung, drill the nessecary hole, weld the bung on, now you can re-mount the o2 sensor. Reset the ECU. I'm not sure how much I would pay for that service... But I wouldn't pay a lot. Seriously, it doesn't take two hours to day, but labor will probably get ya. I'd say you can complete a cat saw for way under $300 if you supply the cat. (stock piping size is 2 1/4" ID, a welding bead by itself will easily cover the gap from a 2 1/2" convertor)

Awsome! The bored man that chooses to do maintenance is rewarded. I use the same Valvoline stuff. It's like, always on sale at k-mart hah! I don't remember off-hand, most everything has a paper gasket. Just use some type of silicon gasket material (obviously wouldn't work on the EGR!).

Yes, it's possible, but not worth the extrodinary cost to get it to work. There is no big differance betwen a used jap engine, and a used US engine. The only differance, is that the JDM upper intake, and the rear exhaust manifolds have no provision for EGR.

Leave it until the valvetrain needs to be serviced & the shims need checking, or the headgasket needs to be taken out.

I don't think it's worth it. The drivetrain is a tank. Just make sure you stay on top of any maintinance. That includes flushing the transmission fluid out on time & cleaning the misc. intake items that get clogged with carbon from EGR.

Pull the entire upper intake off and clean it by hand (It'll run better). Take the two manjor coponents off and clean them ICV (idle control valve - that will most likely fix the problem fix you problem) & EGR valve. Don't forget to clean the throttle body also. Replace the rear plugs. Be sure you use Denso, or NGK plugs. The car will not run well with anything else (Bosch, Autolite, American plugs in general).

That's why we're here. Stick around.

If you don't move the engine, or the cams at all, you just put the belt back on. If you're in doubt the best way is to re-do it. Set the engine to #1 piston DTC Set the cams so that the the one dot alignment marks on both intermeshing gears face each other The belt has lines drawn on it that align with the timing covers, and the middle of the crank gear align them and the belt goes back on

The plastic grill is snapped in, it pulls out. Then there are 2, or 3 bolts you remove to drop a housing down. 10 / 12mm I do believe. The 3rd / 4th bolt, accessable from the front doesn't hold it up. That's your up / down aiming device. That's as best I can do from memory. It's been... Three years now since I replaced mine. You might as well pull the housings down & polish the lens. It'll be pock marked from rocks & crap! Just remember, the last thing you do before putting the bulb in is wipe it off with rubbing alcohol. Fingerprint residue would kill the bulbs quickly in a tiny projeector like our fog lights!

To burn you need fuel and an oxidizer. Oxygen is the only oxidizer present. Less oxygen = less bang; less bang = the less heat. You can reduce nox easily by simply richening the air/fuel mixture. This lowers combustions temps. The trade-off is that less of the mixture does not burn completely, and HC/CO is increased. You can also reduce nox by retarding ignition timing. This can be horrible for emessions tho! The more you !Removed! the timing, the more of the mixiture burns in the manifolds, and the less in the combustion chamber. General emessions sky-rocket, and power output is lowered. If you're very astute, you notice that the upper intake manifold / throttlebody itself has coolant running to it for no other reason that routing coolant. What the actual point of routing coolant there is to cool the EGR pipe that runs under the intake manifold! (EGR flows in a middle chamber, coolant flows down one side and back out the other)

Shoot 20psi in the two front drain holes. Then shoot 80-90psi through them. 99% of the time, you'll fix it.

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Well, it'll be impossible to pass CA emessions testing, cause the CEL is lit, and there's probably a 50-50 split on being able to pass a sniffer test. it wuold probably depend on how good the cat still is, and the main o2 sensor. Modern cars recycle exhaust back into the intake. Because the exhaust gas has less oxygen in it (It's been through combustion) it makes the effective air/fuel mixture richer than normally possible, without actually having to add more fuel & change the mixture. This lowers combustion chamber temperature. Because of the combustion chamber is lower, there are less nitrogen oxides that form in the exhaust gas. Scroll down to 2vz-fe. You don't want to test it (Unless you want to, and or have the equipment). You just want to start out by taking the EGR valve itself off, and cleaning it by hand. After you put it back on, you want to pull the EFI fuse out (box nearest the battery) for a second and replace it. That will clear the trouble code & stored data. If it doesn't come back, problem fixed; if it comes back, well I promise at least you helped a little bit! LoL! Let us know how it goes, or ask anything you need.

branshew nailed it. Check used parts places, and ebay. I've seen ES fogs on ebay once in a blue moon. Gonna have to switch cars if you want a rear, center shoulder belt. Not very feasable to put one in. You'll be doing some extensive modifications that'll either make the interior look ghetto, or not function very well.

Ya you live in California ROTFLMAO! EGR gas temperature is too low. Take the EGR valve off and clean it by hand, check the vacuum hoses, and vacuum switching valve. There may, or may not be any electronics on it, I would doubt it but... If it has a post cat o2 sensor, I would check it too. Boy it sounds wierd saying that.. 90-91 2vz-fe's only had 1 o2 sensor normally, 87+ didn't have any LoL!

It's a 3vz-fe. That's wierd. Parts wise it's cheaper if you take the head back off and pull that piston out. If you don't install it yourself, it's gonna be cheaper to buy a used 3vz-fe and drop it back in (JDM, or US) I know you got emessions down there, so if you get a JDM one, you can just swap the exhaust manifolds, EGR pipe, and the EGR related equipment on the upper intake. I know how loud they are with no exhaust, sit in the car with everything buttoned up. Drive it downt he block so it warms up, then rev it all the way up. You'll still be able to hear a knock, I promise. If it's going to knock, it'll probably be between 4400-5200rpm so pay attention!

There are several DLC's located throghout the car. They all check for different things. They all have TE1 and E1 so it won't matter which one you do.