Toysrme

Or make a ram air for like 15-20 off ebay. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?s...=&fsop=1&fsoo=1 Just a thought. =)

Na it's nothing new. Like mburnickas said. It's not uncommon. I've never cared what some people say about mixing oil. When it heats up & get's thrown around @ over 100psi in the oil pump when you're on the gas, it's gonna mix. I'm just mixing some 20 & 30 to thin the 30 out. Mainly 'cause I'm too cheap to buy individual quarts of 5w-20. Less confusing now?

With a 93 you can either get the 92-94 serviceable struts, or the 94-96 sealed struts. (AFA styles go) Any Japanese aftermarket strut is going to do great, tho you'll more than likely want to combine them with some new springs. I know on my '93 ES the rear springs are sagging from the years of weight back there!

Pre cat o2 sensors on the intake manifolds control the fuel trims. The post cat o2 sensors just let the ECU know that the EGR & Cat are working OK =)

Good stuff. You'll have to, because as they age two things happen: 1) They read progressively richer causing the ECU to set the fuel trims richer than you want them too - you loose gas mileage 2) The responce time slows down & the ECU can't always set fuel trims fast enough to "be on the ball" - you loose more mileage. I've always thouht ditch them somewhere between 100-150 ,000m even if they seem OK. The only obvious way to tell they're wearing without actually testing them is to just wait until gas mileage is noticeable slipping.

Ya many of the other driving clubs are happy to have members for track days / schools, regardless of type, or brand. (Note "outsiders" get served last, but they're welcome to ahve you.) BMW & Porsche are the 2 big ones I can think of.

Ya, was that with or without the flux capacitor? You're so full of *BLEEP*. 5250rpm is 137.83mph. with the torque convertor locked up. Due to the extremely large amount of load, the torque convertor will not be locked - instead it will be slipping (I've found) about 200rpm. Causing you to need 5450rpm to pull 137mph. 6000rpm is 157mph. (Even the 200rpm slip rule, 5800 is 152mph)I can't begin to make a joke about that. Anything I say is going to come out meaner than SteveJ wants people to be. It's impossible aerodynamically on an engine that is even close to stock. Top speed? First thing you need to understand timothy. All 1mz-fe's are electronically limited to 139mph. Unless you have a piggyback manipulating the signal, you're going to hit a brick wall regardless of how much power you have. All the mags put the new 3mz-fe's at 143mph. Tho I've not run across anyone with a 3mz-fe that's claimed to topped out (Camry, or ES). 1/4m is 15.5s@89mph. (Still the same old slow car LoL!, but they've knocked a 1/2 second off the average 3.0L v6 time. They run stock what a well driven 3.0, or 2.5L runs with the first $100-200 in mods.) They are not stable at high speed by any means. The stock suspensions are simply too soft to do anything but a straight line over 100-105. The nose of the car is also subjected to lift (I've documeted & a few other peole commented on both ES & Camry's) that really starts coming into play around 125mph. You can feel the stock suspensions start unloading the faster you go. There is noticeable rise between 125 & 135 & 140. If you're going to drive high speed, you really need to stick to it in a straight line less you have some upgrades. The stock brakes are really good once you put pads that won't melt & fluid that won't boil out. About all of them can activate ABS @ 60-70mph if you get your foot all the way in it. That means traction is the immediate limiting brake factor. ;) With good pads & fluid & brembo rotors - they don't fade much either (Despite the portly 3200-3500lbs they carry around once you add yourself & some audio)

I vote skip them. They're overpriced & don't do jack crap. It really peeved me when I bought a K&N filter for like $40-50, gained 1mph higher top speed (oooooooooooooo). And it got dry as a bone in less than a year. Cotton + oil filters should just have a hint of film on it - but mine was bone dry. I don't believe oily air filters hurt MAF's. I think it's just an un based theory like flushing dirty transmission fluid. The Maxima's MAF went out a month ago? 140 odd miles after war. runs out. Some people say "Well it's the oily air filter". 1) It's an OEM nissan filter. They're oily. They've been oily for a loooong time. 2) Nissan has had the problem on resent mafs, but not every MAF. (This is a sporadic problem only tsb'ed twice in the same amount of times, on only like 1.6 million part numbers. Not 20 gagillian cars sold with oily nissan air filters) 3) The newer "corrected" maf's are the SAME DAMN THING on the outside!!! (That's slightly different because I took the picture on opposite sides & used a cheaper MAF from a vq30, instead of a vq35 & swapped it's thermistor over. Hah! 50 cent radioshak hardware is the real difference between a $150 nissan part & a $450 nissan part) Nissan = retarded. It's a hot wire MAF... You don't need a god damned thermistor to tell air temperature. Air temperature is known based upon a function of flow rate calculation & hot wire MAF temp. Correction Nissan is *BLEEP*ing retarded & they *BLEEP*ing *BLEEP* me off LoL! I do believe you can get a MAF dirty, I don't believe that they die from oil build-up. I guess if you submerged it in water - that'd do it. But to me- every MAF ever made deals with having an oily film. Most engines have a pre-throttle body breather, in conjunction to a post throttlebody PCV valve. Last time I looked, that leaves a tiny film of oil on everything before my breather valve. (I bet lots more than a freaking filter could ever have!) I'm not saying I'm right, but that's how I view the whole MAF + Oily air filter problem. I don't think there is one.

I don't really care to know; I just know it's thinner than the 5w-30 I've been using this year & nobody else is gonna try it. m1s is great stuff 5w-30 survived two blown headgaskets (lots of coolant mixing) & the over-spooling turbo (I'm sure that was hot), running some miles on 3 quarts of oil after I had a sever RMS, or RVC blow-out. (I forget). Running another few hundred miles with atleast 7 quarts in it (I really think it was closer to 8 quarts). Hell that's just 2005! bawahahahahahaha Might as well add a weird mix of 5w-20 to the list of 2005 accomplishments. Every bearing surface in the engine looks awsome. Damned warped heads... I hate dealers. After that who knows. I've been wanting to prove that Astroglide is the greatest lubricant of all time.

If you don't like constant gear shifting (I don't either), don't set it so far. Duh! (Just had to say that) If this one makes you un-nerved, you won't survive the next one! I'll give a hint. What's missing!? :lol: :lol: :lol: ;) B)

I don't (have winter mats), but I've also got WeatherTech mats in the F150 (The rubber kind with huge lips, but carpet on them too). Weathertech Weather Flectors too! Those things are the freaking bomb! WeatherTech is good stuff!

Update. OK couldn't find 5w-20 in the cheap jug in the past 2 weeks. Right now this week I'm doing: Quick flush (10 min of idling) with 5 quarts 5w-30 Supertech (dino) +1 quart diesel. A longer flush (Maybe 10 min of driving around) with 5w-20 Supertech (dino). Just to make sure this damned oil & coolant slurry is out of my engine LoL! Then 4 quarts of 5w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic + 1 quart of 5w-20 Mobil 1 Synthetic. OR 3 quarts of 5w-30 & 2 quarts of 5w-20 m1s. I just can't decide which way to go. I'm leaning 3 & 2. When I put the turbo on I'll add another quart. If it's 4 + 1 I'll add another 5w-20. Otherwise just dump more 5w-30 in. Anywho... As some point in the near future it's going to be 2 quarts of 5w-20 to 3 (or 4) quarts of 5w-30. (Sorry... I still wouldn't mind trying 5w-20 even with the turbo on the car, but I spent over $100 buying nothing more the new fluids to flush with & didn't want to buy 7 single quarts of m1s. We all know I'm not made of money LoL! On the side note, I most likely have the hardest driven A54(x) transmission here & the least amount of wear at the same time - hahahahahahaha. The PS is loving it's new fluid. Old stuff was turning dark - UGH After only a year - year & a half of driving LoL!)

IAC is always a good thing to clean. After that check your coolant temp sensor. The older they get, the colder they read. The colder they read, the more rpm @ idle & fuel they spray.

Ya I did LoL! My valves / combustion chamber goodies were the same conditioin after what 6 months of it. It'd have been obvious if there were a problem. That includes the stint with the filterless turbo over-spinning & smacking it's housing. That broke chunks out of the impellor & aluminum housing. Happens to every turbo engine at some point. Small chunks of metal thrown into the engine. I never found anyone actually finding damage from such things. Now contanimates in a lubrication, or coolant supply - thats bad tho LoL! ^ The obvious problem is moisture, but remember it's an AFM. No moisture to get on anything. (Just thought I'd dispell that before someone brought up a dirty MAF)

I think Monarch is wrong on some points, & he just typed too much to express himself. <cough> I know someone else that tends to do that <cough> LoL! It's just opinions, who really gives a *BLEEP*? The outcome of this thread isn't very meaningful. So Monarch likes to pay out the wahoo for stuff & the rest of us don't. Nobody is wrong, as long as he's happy about his choice & we're happy about ours. I think we all should care a little bit less about this topic LoL! Remember, nothing says "I love you" like Honey Baked Ham!

There is no debate. No descently sized air filter is going to do anything for any engine performance wise. Nor will "small particles" hurt the engine in any way. (Gravel? Yes. Driving down a dirt road? Not good. Anything else? Doesn't really matter) It's simply what you want to pay for one. $50 for a K&N filter you have to re-oil at least once a year (Mine went bone dry in less than a year ). Or $5-15 for a normal air filter. I will say I'll never own, nor support anything K&N makes. They prey on the people that simply don't know any better & are highly overrated. Denso oil filters are great. High filtration rate. bobistheoilguy.com Would be better equipped to tell you about oil filters.

Check the wiring, wire harness, ignitor & meter circuit plate connectors The tach itself 700rpm = 630-770ohm 1000 = 915-1115 2000 = 1920-2220 3000 = 2890-3350 4000 = 3940-4400 5000 = 5025-5425 6500 = 6650-6950 7000 = 7025-7625

Nope, nothing you need to replace. '93 A540-E without the filter. When you do drop the pan, there will be three, or four little magnets on the bottom of the transmission pan. Clean those, the pan & everything you can reach off. I've found Black RTV is the best for new gaskets. (It's unbeatable on oil & transmission pans!)

Either buy a strap wrench, or a filter cap to fit on a socket. Strap wrenches are better, but normally much harder to use. (Buy the socketed cap)

I hate to hear it too. :'( Just be sure you get whatever makes you happy when you pick the next one!

Cool. I jsut don't trust TRD, or Toyota's opinion all the time. I'd rather someone trustful find out first hand. The official stance also says that the 3vz-fe (92-97.54) / 1mz-fe (94-96) don't have compatible upper intake manifolds, but they do. Not arguing, but if it were me & I was looking into doing something regarding the upper intake on a vvt-i 1mz, I'd get a set of gaskets side by side. They're too much like the people at Autozone, or Lowes. They either don't know crap, they listen to someone else that doesn't know, or they read something that doesn't specify either way & someone forms a conclusion. (I'm not any better in this case, like I said, I don't know if they do, or not.) I just think their answers have never been up to par with knowing what can do what.

Probably not picking up the IGF signal from the ignitor.

AFAIK TRD has never *directly* sold parts for any factory Lexus. Why would Lexus want ES owners to have access to performance items? Not including the latest redesigns on the GS/IS/SC lines; Beforehand, if you could have checked a few boxes on a $33,000 ES300 (35K loaded) & add $2500 in parts that would give you a sub $37,000 ES that would stomp the *BLEEP* out of the rest of the $50,000+ stock carline performance wise. The sales of the other cars would have dropped a good bit to many of the "luxury, but I need my right foot" buyers. To add to that, the TRD superchargers have never been reliable. I'm sure someone @ Lexus realized that during the two, or three times every TRD supercharger went out of production (Before being 100% dropped) due to fueling issues that could not be solved cheaply enough for Toyota. I've never cared for his choices in engine management, but like I said, he won't do anybody wrong. He knows his *BLEEP*, he's a nice guy & will go far out of his way to help about anybody.

It's a simple enough question, don't kicastrate him sk LoL! There are two hoses to the airbox. 1 is a triangular'ish one that feeds the airbox. The obvious hose is the outlet that goes to the MAF sensor & throttlebody. On a 3vz-fe the intake resonator / silencer looks like this: I've not seen a picture of a 1mz-fe one taken out in a long time, but best I remember if they're not 100% identicle, it's the exact same style. Now on the airbox to throttlebody part, there will be 1 hose going to the IAC valve under the throttlebody & one going to the front valve cover breather.

1) There should be no hood clearance issue. 2) Gadget's stuff works. You always pay bigtime for it, but he will treat you right. 3) There will be no lower intake manifold problem. Your '97 is the exact same engine used across the Camry platform. The 97-01 TRD supercharger is a direct bolt on to the revised '97+ lower intake manifold. (non vvt-i) Hell for that matter it more than likely bolts to the vvt-i lower manifold also. AFAIK noone has ever compaired them. (Someone buy a '97 & a vvt-i intake manifold gasket & find out.) vvt-i gives the 1mz-fe a broader powerband & lets OEM's ditch *BLEEP*ty EGR systems. In our case, they get drive-by-wire throttles which, tho suck for tuning, does get around the IAC/ISC valves & their habbit of sticking. (Which doesn't really concern me as they age, as without EGR the basic problemwas already solved. So they didn't need to do drive-by-wire. :D ) Valve trickery is a great thing to have. Sunman 1MZ-FE 97+ 194bhp@5200rpm 209ft-lb@4400rpm