Toysrme

More random tips. I did not need gloves to heat & bend mine b/c I can't work with small objects with gloves. I wrapped the rod around my can, then used my fingernails to hold the ends in place so I wouldn't get burned. Blow on the rod & after about 20 seconds (You may need to quickly shuffle fingernails if you're weak! but DO NOT let go within say the first 15 seconds). By about 20 seconds, they will mostly hold their shape. Gently get the can (whatever) out of the middle of the rod w/o bending it & quickly shuffle the rod to a sink full of water, or run some water on it. That will rapidly cool it & allow you to work with it sooner.

Ya, the bubbles are pretty weak. The best thing to do is ride around town at night until you find somewhere flat with a wall 20-25' away. Measure the distance from the ground to the center of the lens, them measure the distance from the ground to the cut-off on the wall. They should be the same thing. Like you said, the wiring, relays, harnesses, housing. Everything is identical to the 65w high-beams. Ya, LoL! Light output is better (Especially when put against old halogen bulbs), but not really a huge change. I remember when I did mine I could actually drive around without the foglights on all the time. Welp, I'm glad it all worked out for you! (I recommend doing it alot, but I didn't come up with it - old trick)

Oh I don't know. I think the new ES & Camry are pretty handsome. Not as big "looking" as others in their class, but well proportioned & good looking interiors. It's all a style thing. Let's face it the lines of the new car looks pretty similar to countless other "Up-to-date" cars ins tyle now. To me, it's the same way as I think of the 80's. If it has little wheels & looks like a box-80's. The rear 1/4 lines & back door on nearly any modern sedan looks pretty much the same to me. That's not a bad thing... Looks good to me.

Welp, the best thing for you to do is get the code scanned so we can see exactly what is going on. AFA the symptoms, sure - not the gaskets themselves, but getting to them something could have been happened. Vacuum leaks, wire / sensor falling off.

Honey, I'm gonna tell you like it is... Toyota's TCCU (Toyota Computer Control Unit) I.E. the ECU I.E. computerthat controls both the engine & transmission on any Toyota/Lexus. Are *buillitproof*. It is |---| far from being ever *theoretically* impossible for one to fail! Eh... They're hella expencive, but every now & again you can find one on ebay for $20-30. it *Must* come from a 1992, or 1993 ES 300, or Toyota Camry. (Same exact thing). Still need to find out what the transmission code is next time it comes on: (Are you sure it wasn't a 42 instead of a 32?) Don't turn the engine off, just park & check the code. (If you didn't the first time) 42 - No. 1 Speed Sensor Malfunction 61 - No. 2 Speed Sensor Malfunction 62 - Open or Short Circuit in No. 1 Solenoid Valve 63 - Open or Short Circuit in No. 2 Solenoid Valve 64 - Open or Short Circuit in No. 3 Solenoid Valve For all 5 of those transmission codes the factory service manual advises: 1) Replace the sensor/solenoid 2) Test the harness, and wiring I think the guy needs to spend some time with a continuity tester to see if the wiring is bad. You did great!

Yeaaaaaa when I first put my Whiteline RSB on with the Whiteline end links, I didn't get one side down tightly enough so the nut fell off that side (I forget which) I will say it was a clucnky & pretty hairy 2 hour drive home in the rain without half the RSB connected. I wouldn't drive around without the rsb. You can do it, but IMHO it's really asking for trouble at some point.

It works for all gears. I agree with SKperformance. Adjust the TV cable to the tighter side. It sounds like the transmission is hunting to figure out which gear it should be in & lugging into it when it does. Since you've gone through all the posts, I'm sure you know after you do that more if it's funny we're gonna say flush it! :) The filter could do it/old fluid/low fluid. It's just a little mesh screen you wipe off with your finger. personally, my feelings on the filter is that it's not normally a problem & when it cures stuff it could just as easily be from the new fluid!

Ya, GR blocks have a chain.

On my 3vz-fe, it was 2 * 5mm allen wrenches, and it pops out with a sharp jerk.

Ya, Download that '93 FSM in the sticked FSM post. It'll go over almost anything under the sun you can dream up. You can also downlaod the Toyota Training Manuals.

No, but the acessory belts must come off.

Lower radiator hose going into the block. Replace both your coolant pressure caps also.

Something else I would like to address is LED choosing, and an my views about mounting them. Obviously, these 5mm 43,000mcd LED's are a huge improvement over most current ones using 3,000-10,000mcd LEDs. But that is not the most important stat to look at when choosing your LED's! We are using 25* LED's, which is helpful because it gives a more even light distrobution into the rod than a 5, 10, or 20* LED would. About mounting them. I have found through two months of off/on testing, it makes 0 difference if the LED is placed at the end of the rod with no hole, you drill a dimple for the nose of the LED to sit in, or drill the entire rod out to fit the LED entirely inside it. What this means, is that someone should seriously give one of my previous thoughts a try. Instead of a 5mm LED, try a 10mm 100,000mcd+ LED. It will not matter that it can't fit inside the rod. Do as I did on my star pointed rods - simply drill a dimple into the rod to aid in glueing it on. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?c...+LED&category0= My view, is that if our 43,000mcd LED's are that much brighter than a 3,000-10,000mcd LED, imagine what the current 125,000-130,000mcd LED's would do!

Original Angel Eyes w/o reflective tape backing kcpth's 43,000mcd angel eyes w' reflective backing My star rod 43,000mcd angel eyes, w/o reflective backing, w/o tin foil under the black tape to get more light output. Pre scoring laying on white tile: Post scoring: Those are close ups. The biggest difference comes once you move 2 feet from the star + many cut angel eyes. Both my new & old cameras refuse to do anything but white out at a distance of 2'+ EVEN w/o reflective backing! By 3' my nekkid eye can no longer register the slits also. I'll take another picture tonight from slightly farther away to demonstrate how much of a difference it really makes. I digress. Huge props to kcpth for getting the halos re-started & finished, and contributing a ton to the projects.

Finally LoL! It took you a week to write it up! Good job! With much thanks to kcpth, I got some of his 43,000mcd LED's to do my own project. I would like to make 2 recommendations, and leave some tips for re-designing the Angel Eyes, b/c I think over the last few weeks of working on & off, I have, what I feel, improved the original design. 1) a)The "traditional" way to make these, is with a hexagon shaped rod. I am using the 6 sided star rods. While you can't drill them out to fit the ELD in, you can Drill enough to glue the tip on - which is the same thing. The 6 pointed sides allow you to score the ring at various opposit points, without the negative effects as shown, but having them (to a point) be accumulative. Because the light reflects so much more & in different patterns whirling around the star sides, you can get away with doing 2-3 points of scoring, without dropping the intensity much at all & adding brightness. B)With the "star" ones, you can slit both back side points & create a good effect. Because there are more, smaller angle refractions in the stars, you can also slit the outside points as needed, to keep the light intense when not viewing them head on. This also helps *greatly* in the event you warp a rod & can't get it perfectly aligned again. From left to right 1) scoring the two opposite points 2) scoring the single opposite point 3) scoring the opposite points until the scores connect 4) scoring the three opposite tips mostly at random 2) Do not use a dremel for scoring the rod. The cutting disks are far too thick, they cut far too fast & require extraordinary control that I feel, most people would not have. Just because kcpth did well, doesn't mean everyone else will. Insead, use a pull saw, or a small hobby saw. This will allow much finer control, and the ability to score much closer together. (I found in many cases it didn't require extreme concentration to make scores roughly 1/16" apart, then go back & score between that half way. In some cases, being able to leave a score every third blade width on my particular hobby pull saw.) It only takes a pair of half strokes, or a full stroke to fully score the rings close to the LED's, to connect points, it only takes 2-3 pulls. Otherwise: ***I like Automotive Goop for this b/c is dries clear & can fairly easily be removed. Unlike a Cayno Acrylic (Superglue) It will dry perfectly clear, is easily remove & does not produce heat in the process of curing. ***Make yourself a stand to glue the LED's on the tips. This is *extremely* helpful & will save large amounts of time. Apply some goop to the tip of the LED using a finger (I used a cut off q-tip); put it on your dimple, roll your finger around it to build up a layer, align it so it shoots down the rod, and finally, set it up so it will free-stand. I taped mine onto the tip of a 409 bottle in an orientation to hold the LED standing straight up. Come back 10 min later & do the other side. After about 5 min, if you bumped it & it falls over DO NOT try to re-orient it... Pull it off, rub the goop off & try again & do a better job of aligning it. This way is superior because you only have to hold it for a few seconds - until you're sure it's stable. On the kitchen table with light coming through the window: ***When you put the headlights in the oven. The most important thing is to put them on a large cookie sheet (Please cover with several layers of tin-foil if you plan on using it), and make very sure that it does not touch, or come within an inch of anything metal in the oven. It WILL melt/deform anything immediately close to metal. I take my headlights apart @ 275*F for 15 min I bend my rods @ 300*F for 7 min. While you have the headlights apart: Put the lenes in the dish washer!!! Take them out immediately & wipe them off with a paper towell & then set them on a pwper towell to dry. Make sure not to touch them ever again. Side tip: If you plan an HID conversion, the cut-offs are near impossible to modify without cuttig them completely out. The other option to make them do really well with HID's is to shim the lens out. The best thing I have found is to heat you a curtain rod to shim the lens out while keeping it flat & Goop it in. Shiming them 3/8-1/4" is perfect for one large hex curtain rod. The stock machine screws suck... They will not hold the lens shimmed out without stripping. Tap them out to a larger size & use a longer machine screw. Without drilling, I just ran an 8-32 tap down it & it came out great! The trade offs for shimming a lens is a sharp cutoff, with more blue/purple light bending, at the expense of having a slightly smaller beam pattern. In a twist of irony - the beam pattern will still be above what a halogen will be from it's raised output. This is THE only way I can personally agree with using a re-based HID kit without new projectors. I have personally done both cutting & replacing of the cut-off, and shimming the lens. Shimming the lens is really the only effective way to make it work.

Depends on how lean it's running. If it's lean enough 2 push the EGT's over say 1400*F.... It'll burn a hole in a piston/ring eventually, but that won't stop the engine from running immediately either. & Toyota's are tuned so un-godly rich. It'd run a long, long time. Unless you were shoving an extra 1000bhp of FI into it. It wouldn't last 2 long on a test stand then!

TurboGS300 It's sad you typed so much after that. Big waste of your time. You'll find that most people won't respect anything you say once you've shown your !Removed!. Army said your statement was ignorant. It was. It seems to me your only reply is typing just enough to mix some insults in & get by with them. Anyways, on topic... kbb.com: Trade in Excellent $22,125 Good $20,815 (Selected) Fair $18,600 Private Party Excellent $24,955 Good $23,545 (Selected) Fair $21,630 They're in line. Sell your car in the paper, you'll have way more pocket money. AFA trading a GS430 for a new Mustang, whatever floats your boat. The mustang will be infinately faster - in every possible aspect of the word fast for far less money than the GS. It will also be cheaper to own. Not to mention it's much more stylish. (Please get one with the fog lights, they look nekkid without the fogs) Dude if it floats your boat 2 own a new mustang, buy a new mustang. Who gives a F? My grandfather's 85 year old best friend bought him a brand new '05 baby blue mustang v6. It's a fun car to drive around in.

The Camry platform has always had AWD on the small displacement i4's outside of North America. it didn't sell the first time the Camry & Celica had AWD, so it's highly unlikely anyone here would buy them now. Anyways, It'd be an extreme shocker. jweiss it would have to happen later down the road. Right now the Kentucky plant is going to build the hybrid Camry's, but the Tsutsumi plant has no Export (i.e. non jdm) Camry, Window, or ES slated for the hybrid stuff. But ya, I would expect a hybrid option later. Just not now. Give it a couple years. My bet is that it'll happen in '09. 2 1/2 year product update cycle. ;)

What risk? Dont' throw a wrench between the battery posts & there is no risk.

I've never heard of the front shock absorber on any Toyota transverse v6 needing replacing. Replace the dogbone, if that doesn't fix it do the front motor mount.

np, netime Eh, you'd have to completely take the valve body apart to get that check valve on page AX-92. Check it out.

Take the panels off & see what's going on.

Or you could search, and learn that you can get the code for free. Short TE1 & E1 in the diagnostic port, CEL flashes the code<s>.

You got it. At the very bottom right of the valve body you see the circle of shiney metal. To the immediate left of that there is another shiney bit of metal. That piece of metal is what the throttle cable connects too, and there is a biiiig piston right there it pushes against to varry the pressure. Tho if that piston shot out, he wouldn't have the TV cable working & that would drive log a dog. Not considering it'd be loosing tons of pressure in the VB like mad. That sounds a lot closer to what that thing would look like if it were a valve. I can always be wrong, but I just don't recognize that & think transmission. It could be from inside the main housing of the transmission itself tho! Eh, IDK what to say. I mean if it drives well... Put an n2o kit on it & tell us how it is in the morning I guess? If it's a transmission part, it's beyond my knowledge. I gave a quick glance at the A540 repair manual (See your '93 FSM) The closest things I found resembling that are: Union 27's page AX-11 (But they look threaded & hex shaped) Plug page AX-11 (But it's external) Check Valve AX-91 (That's what it looks like, but doesn't explain how it got around two 1/8" steel gaskets & thick aluminum) You can see it's not the plugs we were talking about before on AX-87. They have the flange on the end for the retainer. (Hey I said that! LoL!) I digress, I'm not a transmission expert so I'm at a loss. Judging by a quick page-down scroll of the transmission manual's exploded diagrams - that is not a transmission part & if it is... It seems physically impossible to me for it to just "jump out" into the transmission pan.

IDK. There are little valve things in the valve body that are spring loaded & shoot out the side, but there are tiny retainer's that hold them in & they have cutouts for them to slip into. There are a good number of them in there. In this pic the leaf at the top, the stem is pointing to that little squar retainer. That holds those little shift valves in. Anyways if he lost one of those things, it would be all screwed up to some degree, or another. I don't think that's what it is, but if that is it he needs to go beat the living *BLEEP* out of the transmission service people for taking it apart & removing it for no reason. It is physically impossible for that to come out on it's own while the retainer block is in & that is sandwhiched between aluminum & steel. It doesn't exactly have anywhere to go!