Toysrme

ES's don't really understeer more than anything else that have the same mushy suspension & are FWD. It's always a balance. The wider the tire, the more grip, but the slower the tire is in transitioning responce. I maintain that someone wanting performance on a 92-'01 should stick with a 215/55/17 on a 17*7.5" rim. Note that Lexus & Toyota both upped to 215 size tires on 17*7.5" rims there at some point. ;) Upgrade your sway bars & if it still handles too much like a dog for you, it's time for springs & struts. On my '93, when I put my whiteline sway bar on, it takes a fast wheel flick to oversteer. God forbid you crank the wheel & apply a quick stab of lift-off-throttle. You'll turn it around.

It can go either way. There are pluses & minuses to both just before & just after the turbine. I would probably stick it a few inches down the down-pipe so you get a better flow into it.

Eh. Sounds like a budget setup to me. I wouldn't go spending tons on an intercooler. Stock volvo coolers a ginormous for $30-50 & do better than many of the little $200 intercooler "kits". The T25 should be ok. You'll have boost instantly on that. You would probably make in the neighboorhood of 200bhp. I would guess around 200-210bhp @ 9-10psi. Say 156-163whp. Peak. The stock wastegate is... 4psi. I would leave it like that & see how it drives just to make sure everything is peachy. @ 4psi The turbo should be putting out little more peak power than the engine already makes. You'll have a lot more grunt from having a powerband as broad as the turbo can make it. (Even if you don't nessicarialy make any more peak power with the turbo.) I digress... Leave it as-is & run it @ 4psi to see how it responds. Set the distributor at 5* btdc (stock is 10*), set a cheap ebay FPR to 50-60psi & I hope to be finalizing my data on AFM cog adjustments soon. Put the NGK plugs in & check them out. Then just hang out for a week. Make sure it's not lean & gonna crap all over itself. Then give 9-10psi a try with a hair more fuel pressure & more AFM cog richness.

CGTS! ES Z50. That's right! No that's the little T25. The pre-86's came with a t3 60/48. I am not a 300z expert, but to the best of my knowledge, it went t3 48/60 in '84. Added coolant lines 85-86. (both 6.7psi) 87+ swapped to T25 @ 4psi. On a 2vz-fe that would be an OK turbo to make 200-230bhp with. It'd be on the low end of what you would want to retain the stock fuel system with just some AFM tweaks & a fuel pressure bump. Use the TB/EGR's coolant lines & route them to the turbo.

Just google Denso (& NGK) spark plug wires. Yes, it's coil on plug ignition. Did you cut one? With a '99, you shouldn't be close to needing new spark plug wires.

You hit an off-week. Normally there are a few sets of gen2 Camry springs on ebay. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?c...ings&category0= There is a set of Intrax springs for sale right now, but that looks like about it (Minus some expencive King springs in aus.) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTRAX-LOWE...031665735QQrdZ1

Any amount of searching will tell you that you will either pay $200 per needle from Lexus, or $200 to OLT at lextech.

Replace the springs, struts, and strut mounts. Sway bar bushings & end links. If you're looking for a modified/upgraded suspension, now is the time. Get on ebay & buy some KYB-GR2's. They go about $300 shipped. Also get the strut mount kits for about $60. AFA springs... Either use OEM Toyota springs, or buy *real* drop springs on ebay. Not coil-over springs, not $50 drop springs. Real springs.

No it's not hard. 10mm to get the hold-down off. Remove battery. Installation is the opposite.

First stickied post in the ES forum. Factory Service Manual.

If the passat is an M/T, it will most likely beat you by a nose from a dig. If it's an A/T, you should get it by a slim amount provided you don't have audio equipment & ghetto, or wheels heavier than stock etc. God forbid it's modded. Those little 1.8t's go straight to 225-250bhp with nothing more than a $400-700usd chip & run 0-60 in 6 flat. Not to mention for anyone wanting 250-300bhp you've always got the simple k04 turbo swap. Expencive in kit from, but cheap as dirt for anyone watching ebay. Even if you buy a junk K04 & need it rebuilt. My money would be on the Passat if it were a manual & the guy doesn't shift like a tard. If it were a rolling start... I'd probably put consistant money on the ES, but it's going to be so close it's stupid. Litterally, whoever is on the gas first is going to win.

Very unlikely. Stick to it sounds like "you have a vacuum leak". ;)

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/interval.html http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/amsoil.html Pretty much just destroyed the 3,000 mile oil bulldung, And it is bullcrap, as anylisis on about anything shows. Past that, Toyota's old recommendation of 7,500 / 5,000 miles looks very, very good. This is probably why they never had any problems spring up from the old 7500 mile duration on dino oil. No recalls, no major changes, or campains to educate people. People <cough> can spew bullcrap left & right all they want. But oil anylisis shows that it's all a bullheap. Not fact. From here, take oil drain discussion to a different thread. This one is about quality, light weight oils that were not avalible in 1990.

I really could care less. Especially about this: I have no emessions related equipment on my ES, yet I set the "unofficial old v6" full tank of gas mpg record at 28mpg 100% highway on my 3vz-fe. That's the pre 1mz-fe record by a relatively wide margin VS anything I have ever encountered. If not a flat out pre vvt-i record. AFA extended drain intervals. Define extended? Who said I'm using extended intervals? Who said I'm not? I simply said it was doing well. I've been thinking it over. I think I'm going to go ahead & do my valve adjustments this week & just put 5-6 quarts of 5w-20 in. Change it out whenever I sell the car, if I do. If not... Next fall sounds good, unless I start racking up the 8 hour trips to see the GF.

Replace the speed sensor from the transmission.

Redescribe the current noise. What kind of rumbling? Could just be a leaking exhaust pipe.

btw 5w-20/5w-30 is running great... I'llI think I'll do this through the start of summer, then try 5-6 quarts of 5w-20.

Not needed. They are hosted in quadruplicate already & I have/share control over 2 of 4 servers. They're also backed up on my P90 file server that runs 24/7 in the basement, and on a locked DVD-RAM. Bump 4 Update 2

kbb.com to see if you got a good deal. It's not likely a fuel problem itself. Check that the ECU is OK, and that the AFM is outputting a correct voltage on the VS line. It should, in theory, be able to run poorly on just the cold-start injector alone. Check for spark. Distributor cap & rotor, and to a lesser extint the ignition coil. The tank... I wouldn't be in such a hurry to drop it. Pull out the rear seats if you want access to the housing & fuel lines & pump assembly.

New halfshafts cost $50-70 a pop. Get on ebay & buy a set & take them to a mechanic to put them on. You should be able to get away with about $400usd in it.

Ok. First, you don't need to bump something that hasn't gotten a reply after 40 min... Second, anything is possible with enough money. Due to the extravogant amount of money even a DIY would spend during the swap to change out far too many components... It's a dumb idea. Modify the blower to fit on the current engine & when you melt the piston ringlands off from not running enough fuel through it; rebuild it with a descent custom S/C, or turbo setup & make whatever power goals you really want. (After rebuilding the transmission, ofcorse).

Just stick a magnet on the stock tip. I think it's an M10*1.25, but wouldn't swear to it. Why don't you take yours & see? A $20 cheap tap & die kit will last you a lifetime *if* you keep it lubricated during use & use them properly. I.E. by hand. AFA what oils, or filters to use search on here (Discussed to death), and direct any hardcore questions about general lubrication issues to bobistheoilguy.com. I'll pretty well tell you. Fram, Bosch etc. are not popular. It's going to be a tossup between stuff like the OEM Denso, OEM (JDM) Nippon, or something like the good wix/purolators. Good luck with it. I suggest you drop the pan & just throw a few magnets in that like the transmission pan. You'll also get a chance to look at how the bottom end is coming along. An oil anylisis would be a hell of a lot better than a magnet to check too. Just a thought. ;)

smasood any leak after an air sensor will cause running problems. If the PS hose is damaged, then ya that'll cause a leak. mairella start by cleaning your IAC valve (And throttlebody & EGR valve), then proceed to check for vacuum leaks.

The day you get it. http://autopia.org/ To learn about good paint care. The choice of what to use is wide. I suggest first figuring out what kind of look you want on your paint. Then narrow the stuff down to what looks like you want VS how it's used.

He can't deal with BISTOG, but by god we're down with whatever the motorhome mags say. ;)