Toysrme

http://lextreme.com/v6/viewforum.php?f=4

The TSIB regarding the shift flare between 3rd and 4th changes has been revised, August 2nd 2006.

^ What SK said. The v6 Camry platform front brakes have been the same since gen2. One changes, they all change.

Just go to the brake booster & pull that end of the hose off. One end of the hose is the same as another. Slooooooow in my experiance, the amount of carbon doesn't really equate to how much smoke there is. I haven't really figured it out. Sometimes you get alot, sometimes you don't. If you haven't yet, do it again. :) Then let us know if the throttle responce is any better?

I'll host it on Sean's FTP site.

No, it's not going to hurt anything. (Unless those plugs ar ejust so old they're caked & bearly firing). Yes, on a 96 you'll most likely pick up some throttle responce.

Ah that aint that bad.

Sure you can clean them. It's o2 sensor safe, plugs should be fine. mrbutz1 the 93 ES Factory Service Manual is on the sticked FSM post. As is the '94 camry, part of the 89 es 250, and the 97 es 300, and another one (05 if i remember?). You want the '94 Camry manual for any engine / draivetrain & brake information & either the 94 camry, or 93 ES for everything else. 93ls400walt it must be removed to be cleaned.

I'm late to the party but here you go.... The permit driver has no insurance. The insurance comes from the valid driver's liscence holder's insurance. Technically: The owner of the car has the only insurance on that vehicle that matters. Provided you are driving that vehicle with their permission, their insurance covers you in that vehicle. Your parents don't put you on insurance until you are a liscenced driver & are actively driving a vehicle. What differance does it make? It's like my daddy said, "If you can afford the big block, you can afford the gas.", and my great grandfather said, "If you can afford a new tractor, you can afford a barn to put it in." I am not trying to say anything... But if your parents are driving a 745 and GX470. They're not stretching to put insurance on you every 6 months. LoL! What they oughta do, is sit your butt in an old car & put liability on it if they're worried about money. You're a male under 25. Insurance is high regardless of everything. Might aswell face that fact now. Also keep in mind that even tho you are not listed on their policy, you are leagally still covered by their insurance because you live in the same household.

72-75-80. Only yankees drive 55-60mph on the highway. Time is money. Buy a multi meter & fuel pressure gauge. Take injector duration x fuel pressure. From there you can exactly calculate the amount of fuel you're presently using. A 241cc @ 41psi injector that is running 20% duration @ 33psi is using: (216.41cc @ 33psi * 20%) 43.282cc of fuel / min *6 (6 fuel injectors) = 259.692cc / min of fuel. Or if you wanna be all SAE about it... 24.732 lb/m of fuel. It's an 18.5 gallon tank (70.03 L). You could drive for 269.66 minuets before you ran out of gas at 20% duration. Or... A hair under 4 1/2 hours. I digress, it's not about rpm, it's about injector duration VS fuel pressure. That constitutes how much fuel is currently being used. While RPM has an aspect to play because of the fueling tables, it has just as much to do with the condition of the engine, mods, performance, load. etc. What constitutes fuel uses is percieved engine load from the computer. :)

Pretty much, yeah it's good. The same money buys an equivilant v6 Camry so... As long as the engine doesn't overheat, the only problem of note for the whole thing is blowing head gaskets. Which comes from overheating the engine. If you keep the cooling system in check, it'll run until you blow the rings out of it, barring some random stupid failure. Flush the coolant, change the thermostat & pressure caps, flush the transmission fluid ASAP. From there, expect to do every form of maintenance in the near future. There are plenty of lists for that & frankly they get alittle long. AFA the suspension being not new. All suspensions feel like that after about 10 years. Save up some money for new springs & struts. The engine rocking is because the torsional (dog bone) engine mount is shot, probably the front engine mount also. Cheap replacements of those can be had bundled together on ebay.

Cleaning those things takes an engine cleaner, and a brush. :) It's cheap. PCV valves are not generally expencive (Maybe $10). Plugs can be whatever u want to spend. Keep it NGK, or Denso brands only. Copper core plugs would run less than $15 to change. Iridium plugs can run about $10 a plug.

np yall. There's a reason why seafoam hit the toyota truck forums & exploded. Then I took it to places like Toyota Nation & It's pretty much defacto every you go *somebody* is going to say to do it on an engine more than a few years old. It's cause the stuff does exactly what it claims to do. It gets rid of the carbon on the combustion chambers & around the valves & like any descent oil treatement, it thins the oil some & cleans surfaces. Bearings, etc. S why most engines more than a few years old idle smoother after you do anything to them in the oil. BG44 (Toyota's cleaner), seafoam, Auto-rx, Marvil Mystery Oil, Diesel/kerosene, etc. mrbutz1, it aint ngunna hurt, but good lord 14mpg is horrid!? tb = throttle body IAC/IACV/ISC/ISCV = Idle Air Control (valve) / Idle Speed Control (valve) In your case, it's an IAC. PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventalation Did you get around to changing the plugs yet?

It could be plugs, dizzy rotor / cap. Try setting the AFM cog back to where it went originally too. If all yall did was polish, don't expect much. Where the power comes from is fixing the short side radious, unshrouding the valves & having a good multi-angle valve job done. All of which require actual grinding & cutting. (Material removal) Check the vacuum of the thing idling (with a vacuum gauge), and check the compression. How much was the TPS sensor adjusted? If it's not reading correctly now, you may not be getting into open-loop all the way, or even at all. & check the ignition timing Valve timing too, that's a common thing when u start playing with cam timing. They'll run way off, but depending which cam is doing what, you can do subtible things like shift the powerband, to major things like wipe out all power in an entire portion of the powerband.

Bulbs

I use the pdfs most often. Ctrl+shift+F = advanced search. haynes has no such feature. ;) I do have the Haynes too. It's the most useable of the aftermarket books to me.

U know the old schedule was 7500 miles or 12 months for non sever duty. ;) mburnickas That's why I pump m1 synthetic. ;) AMS is the best, but at a price. Or just chill out with the $5, 4 quart Wallmart Super-Tech on a 5000m interval. Which is a cheaper mobil1 dino oil.

or the solenoid is unplugged / bad wiring / bad harness.

Turn it tighter.

I have absilutely no idea! :D

92-94 only. Yes, if you bridge OP1 & E1 in the diagnostics port, the solenoid trips, causing the fan to rotate faster. Generally, it get's unplugged (For no reason) during a belt change & left unplugged. You, mechanically, have a 100% toyota camry. minus a tea tiny number of changes. Toyota dealers Independant mechanics Lexus dealers :(

Im not an expert, but my feeling / idea has always been that as long as it doens't like "come apart", then yes. It's the heat / time of actual useage on things like oil & atf that ruin them. AFAIK oil doens't just "go bad" sitting around.

Doesn't the 97 use a throttle valve (kick-down) cable too? If so, tighten it alittle bit.

You can mix anything, with anything, provided it all meets the required specification. When that transmission fluid get's pumped at 250+psi in the valve body, ya baby. It's mixing time! It's no different than oil. When it get's pumped through the oil pump at 70+psi when you're on the gas, it's gunna mix.

Always start with the fluid.