Toysrme

Allen wrench. Go buy a set of metric ones. You can do plugs however you want. You're engine man. ;)

That's cool.

Knock sensor malfunction bank 1. Knock sensors are fitted one each to the right bank and left bank of the cylinder block to detect engine knocking. This sensor contains a piezoelectric element which generates a voltage when it becomes deformed, which occurs when the cylinder block vibrates due to knocking. If engine knocking occurs, ignition timing is retarded to suppress it. No No. 1 knock sensor signal to ECM for 4 crank revolutions with engine speed between 1,600 rpm - 5,200 rpm. Open or short in No. 1 knock sensor circuit No. 1 knock sensor (looseness) ECM If the ECM detects the above diagnosis conditions, it operates the fail safe function in which the corrective !Removed! angle value is set to the maximum value. That's what the FSM says. Download it. It's sticked at the top of the forum. DIAGNOSTIC CHART HINT: If diag. trouble code 52 is displayed, check No.2 knock sensor (for left bank) circuit. If diag. trouble code 55 is displayed, check No. 1 knock sensor (for right bank) circuit. If diag. trouble code 53 is displayed, replace ECM.

I thought sheepskin was just what really old uneducated people used for condoms??? I am so just kidding around with you dude. I'm too young I guess... I've never heard, nor know of any reason why someone would take sheepskin over latex, errrr I mean leather!

Plugs, clean the EGR, throttlebody & IAC. Clean the MAF wire with a q-tip & rubbing alcohol & reset the ECU.

The sony head unit should have a crossover in it. The front & rear outputs are not driven with the same signal. Unless that's just ike a 10 year old + headunit, even the cheapest crap ones are all multi-channel. Don't the stock tweeters have a crossover coming off the door speakers? sk? I don't remember. Bro if you want sound clarity. Time for new speakers. ;)

New plugs Clean the MAF wire with a q-tip & rubbing alcohol Reset the ECU & drive it like you stole it If you have over-sensative knock sensors. There's your problem Seafoam it to clean the carbon out of the combustion chambers Take the upper itnake manifol doff & clean it & the lower manifold ports, throttlebody, IAC & EGR valves (if equipped) Test o2 sensor outputs

I think at the least you blew a head gasket driving it around overheating. Yeah sk. The valvetrain is mint. It's not going to "break". Eventually the shims wear down & you need new shims. Regardless. That doesn't cause any real problems. (It's not like an old pushrod engine where the valves go out of adjustment & you snap a valve off, or beat a lifter to death, that beats the cam lobe to death. Eventually you'll start to wear the cam lobes, but that takes a long time.) If you have oil & coolant together, you need to take it off the road ASAP before you seize the motor with all the coolant in the oil. Where water is, oil isn't & everyone knows from oil commercials on TV. Oil makes engine surfaces horny. (Feel free to quote me on that sk! ;) ) You don't really replace valvetrain parts. You check that the valves are in adjustment. If not you replace the shim with one that does. Being a rubber based gaket, eventually valve stem seals wear out & get replaced. I have never seen a valve, or valve guide in any Toyota DOHC engine break in any way. Never seen one burned up either. Neither has anyone I know. It's blown up. This aint a valve issue. Hell it may have out of adjustment valves that are ticking... But that is not an issue that needs to be addressed at the moment. Just to drive it home. Blown headgasket & warped cylinder heads. You'll have to quit driving it before you completely destroy the engine, have the heads milled flat & isntall new headgaskets. At which time, if there is a problem with the valves being out of adjustment. That's a good time to re-adjust them. Or buy a new engine. Not valve problem<s>. Blown headgasket problem.

No different that anywhere else. Quit going to lexus for maintenance. That's the problem!

Werd. Any v8 Chrystler (Dodge/Jeep) from the late 90's on will take down about anything Lexus has ever made. Minus the newest engine families & I'm not talking like the new 500bhp v8. Their lesser "normal" v8's crank enough power to motor them. That old Jeep Grand Cherokee would run mid 14's with bolt ons sheesh. Factory sub-16s 1/4 miles. They're nothing to scoff at.

No, I agree with you.

They don't exactly have the horsepower to require any finiky launching. It's powerbrake & go so... Driver doesn't really make a differance & that's pretty much what u get in the real world. Big wheels & audio quickly will add nearly a second to just the 0-60mph time.

Those 0-60 times are accurate. They're done via indipendant testing. On that list, it's compiled times from either car and driver, or motortrend. Both of which have always matched the published Lexus times for the ES's & the published Camry times for the v6 Camries. Frankie_B what kinda audio equipment? What do you weigh? What wheel & tires size are you using? Do you know how long a second is? (That is a serious question... I was a drumme ofr a long time. I know without a stopwatch. Are you that accurate? Most people don't have a damned clue lol!) You're likely counting fast. Which is why you should video tape the speedometer during the process, or use something like a g-tech pro to figure it out.

NGK, or Denso ONLY.

itsme4g63 - The FSM is still there. Just like every other FSM. None have been deleted. mrbutz1 - They unzip without problems. Upgrade your software.

Beware of who you buy from. We've run across several people passing off the JDM 2.5L 4vz-fe as a 3.0L 3vz-fe, and the JDM 2.0L vz-fe as the 2.5L 2vz-fe. Make them take a picture of the engine block. I started a list here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...3&hl=4vz-fe Doesn't mean buy from anyone in particular, but it does show you what too & not too look for. Ask for a picture of the block stamping.

There's only one coil, so it's either fire or nothing. Id bet that there's a spark plug wire not connected, in the wrong place, or a new spark plug is dead for whatever reason. And if that's ok, then ya. Injector stuck open.

Damn striaght! I can't help you with the leather restore/colorant (Hey if u find one that works lemmie know!). Paolo9 more information buddy! But Lexol is god's gift to leather cleaning & conditioning. It's so good it went backwards. Toyota & Lexus dealers started noticing how many people use it (along with their own personal use), so most simply stock it. (all the local ones here do) Neat! Don't buy form them tho, it's expencive! I bought mine in those *big* containers for like $20 each when I got my Lexus in 02-03? I've bearly made a dent in the fluid level so far! I just poured some out into 2 spray bottles. Short of that, woolite mixed with water is an extremely good leather cleaner. The best over the counter cleaner & conditioner is the Meguiar's 2 part cleaner & aloe. Big jugs of lexol are still cheaper in the long run (I think mine paid for themselves within a year... I'm anal retentive about it), and it's still just *that* much better. I got mine from that horse store online. Seems like it's dropped in price too. $16 for the 3L containers, so yeah, about $40 shipped.

The '93 factory service manual is sticked at the top of the forum. The letters are page numbers in the brake section. (Control + shift + f in adobe is advanced find.) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CAMR...sspagenameZWD1V http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-96-TOY...sspagenameZWD1V http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1994-LEXUS-...sspagenameZWD1V Feel free to spend your money, but I'm telling you. I've never seen any Toyota ECU fail. It's not a ford, or chevy. I think it's a waste of money. (And all you need to take the glovebox out is a 10mm socket. CHange the thing yourself LoL! The glove box pulls out easy. You pull the carpet off to expose 4-5 nuts, take the plastic kick tray off that way connected to the carpet, take 4-5 the nuts off & the glovebox pulls out. Now you're staring at the engine/transmission ECU, the ABS ECU, the powersteering fan ECU, the climate control ECU, and the blower motor for the cooling/heating system. :) Easy as pie.) Sucks about the brake hose. They're not complicated to change. You get pretty dirty doing it tho hahahahahaha

Yes, it is an oil filled mount.

Sounds like you blew it up... What is the oil consumption? See if you don't have oil in your coolant, or coolant in your oil. Is the car overheating? Does the engine have a hard time idling? Check the compression on the cylinders. I digress, to answer the question. No, unless you DIY you're not getting a valvejob done for under $1000. The shims are $3-8-10-12 a piece depending on your hookup (24 valves), you hope to re-use some shims to save money. Doing it requires taking the valve covers off & doing 8 sets of valves in 1/3 incrimates of the crankshaft. It takes forever if you've never done it... But it's actually really easy. You measure the valve clearance with feeler gauges, then take the shim out & measure the shim thickness with a set of calipers. Add the two numbers together, look on the handy dandy valve shim chart & see which new shim you need to get the two numbers in spec. Takes forever, but it's pretty easy.

It's probably just the $30 bushings that mount the sway bar that are shot. Behind that I'd blame strut mounts. Aftermarket end-links are cheap. Don't those sell around $30-50 a kit? Hour of labor to change both. That's $60-90. So... Nomore than $175 tops is what I'd pay.

They bran. It's called "1994" LoL! Short of buying a '97+ when the deminsions increased slightly. IDK what to tell you guys. :'(

Ya you messed up. Should have sold it through the paper. It would have been worth atleast $3200 provided it was running & drove around without problems (Fix that powersteering I think it was?). Never take dealer trade ins. They always make money, regardless of any discount you think you may be getting. It was worth about $1800-2200 on dealer trade in. :\ TL's are nice. There have been afew people on ClubLexus jump from TL's to ES350's. What ever makes u happy man! If you like th TL, we like the TL. Just.... Beware of Honda-Tech. LoL!

Not really sure what to tell you. The wire is pretty much exposed to the weather, and to mechanics during wheel/tire/suspension/axle maintenace on most cars because of it's location. If the wire get's old, it can just get black wire rot (Where the copper deteriorates) and it may only take a bump to kill it off. It doesn't happen to like every car, but you do see it alot so... It's just one of those things. I'm not sure, what do those things sell for normally? $100-150? Anybody? I'd give a Toyota dealer, and some parts stores a call tho. Lexus dealers are notorious for charging insane money for parts. Na dude LoL! Used, those things are literally worth about $30 bucks. I ebayed one yesterday on either a 92-96 ES, or a 92-96 Camry (Same thing) and it was like $29.00 not including shipping. The ABS modulator valve is this huge !Removed! electric pump & valve assembly that sits in the front of the car under the windshild washer tank. Trust me, you haven't broken that! As much as I hate it. I have no idea without being there. You'd have to look at the ABS sensor outputs on something that can show you the wave form (oscilloscope) while you spin the wheel. That can be a pain in the &#33;Removed&#33;. Most likely just either get lucky replacing one, or replace them both. :\ Try the front one, it's cheaper & would have been exposed to damage from mechanics more often. All it takes is a good hard bump to knock one out of alignment so it doesn't pick-up the magnets correctly. Check the alignment of them. Just because the sensor is good & tests ok with an ohm meter, doesn't mean it's not simply out of alignment.