NicLX470

There is nothing wrong with any of your cars. that smell is a byproduct of the sulfur that is in the fuel............all fuel. Changing brands will not do one bit of good. For a little knowledge of how a modern ecu in a car works... 99% of your driving is done in whats called "closed loop" mode... the ecu looks at airflow from the mass air sensor, estimates the engines fuel requirements by plotting airflow, rpm and engine load on a preset fuel map and opens the injectors for that set amount of time... it then looks at the data from the oxygen sensors to see how completely burnt the fuel was - the more burnt it was, the leaner the mix, the less burnt, the richer the mix... it measures the oxygen content in the exhaust to do this, and it is looking for stoichiometric, which is 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel ratio... anything below this is rich, anything above is lean - lean is good for fuel mileage, but not so good for keeping an engine healthy... once it sees how good the map was at estimating fuel requirements, then it modifies it... typically it will shoot rich, see if it was rich, then it will shoot a little leaner, see how well it does, then rich, then lean - its almost impossible to get it perfect every time, so it bounces from rich to lean pretty consistently... this is why an air/fuel ratio gauge bounces back and forth while at idle or cruise... Now....for those times when you want to smoke the Beamer or Benz next to you, (1%) of driving is done in whats called "open loop" mode... this is reserved for high amounts of throttle or wide open throttle... here, the computer abandons the oxygen sensor readings and only looks at the airflow and its preset map... because oxygen sensors are only accurate at stoichiometric (unless you have a wideband, which most cars do not come with from the factory), the programmers of the ecu decided that to save the health of the engine, they would shoot for somewhere between 10:1 and 12.5:1 for high loads on the engine....ok, so, open loop, no feedback from the oxygen sensors because we are operating outside of their accuracy range... also, a byproduct of this is that unburnt fuel makes it through the engine, sometimes to be somewhat reburnt in the catalytic converter making it get real hot... so, real hot catalytic converter plus sulfur in the unburnt fuel equals bad smelling exhaust, rotten eggs, to be specific... It is not bad and it is not going to hurt anything - high temperatures can actually help keep a catalytic converter free from contaminants.

It is also illegal not to have a front plate here in Texas. But I refused to let the dealer drill holes in the front of my 09 IS350 with only 22 miles on the odometer. It was a big hassel with the salesman. He wanted to give me a speech about how it's "the law" and "you will get a ticket" But he finally just said. "ok, we won't put the front bracket on." But he still didn't like it!! But if I ever get stopped I will just play stupid and say "the dealership did not put a bracket on the front so I didn't think I had to place a plate there." See how far it gets me!!! Then I could be ghetto-fabulous and place the plate on the dashboard faceing outward. I know you guys have seen what I am talking about!!

I agree that Lexus should make maps for all other contries an option to buy that will work with our current U.S. cars. I mean, hello!!!....not all of us drive just in the U.S. with our cars. Where I live here in Texas it is only a 6 hour drive to Mexico in which I like to travel there frequently. But as soon as I cross the border....nothing but " brown dirt" on the navi screen. So I break out my Mexico atlas that takes up the entire windshield and I almost wreck. Like we are driving in the 80's!! Pointless. it should at LEAST be a seperate option to buy. Does this ring a bell with anyone? Or am I the only loser who likes to travel with my Lexus outside U.S. borders?

Yes I agree. Looks a little odd. But in a good way.

I had the same problem. It was the CV joints that have gone bad. They will creak and pop upon turning or with the suspension moves up or down. But I see your trucks have less miles and are newer than mine. My CV joints went out at 80k miles and the LX470 was 8 years old then. So this is just my own experience for what the "pop" was.

Regardless of what anyone else had told you, the LAST generation RX only had projector headlamps if equipped with xenon bulbs. Non projector lamps on a RX meant they are regular halogen bulbs, period. But that is just from the factory. Anyone can update to a HID kit with or without projector housings. And if they state "bi" xenon lamps there is a "shade" that is retracted from the entire lamp creating the "bright" setting. Meaning the xenon bulb can be used for both low and high beams. Also for more light the daytime running lights or DRL's, will also illuminate with the bright setting selected for even more light coverage as with my IS350. The shade is retracted from the xenon bulb and also the halogen bulbs used for DRL are at their full potential. But all these options differ from different makes and models. I would also like to add that the 2010 RX seems to have the projector beam regardless of halogen or xenon bulbs. Correct me if I am wrong.

Press the INFO button...then press SCREEN SETTINGS, and you will be able to turn automatic transition from audio/climate to nav screen off. Then the screen will stay on what you have selected.

AHC fluid can be flushed and replaced for 50 bucks at a Lexus dealership. The fluid tank is on the passenger side closest to the fire wall. You can see the fluid level there.

My room mate usually drives the truck and I follow him or get in front of him sometimes to see if it leans when the truck is on, and honestly I cannot tell. So I do not know it it corrects itself while in motion which it should. The ride is smooth but just bothersome when I come out of a store to the parking lot and can see it looks like it is leaning.

Honestly the salesmen at the dealership don't know jack about the cars they sale. I can tell you that the new ISC does have the hard drive based nav system. But you are going to have to go test drive it and figure out all these questions yourself to see if you can operate while driving. But honestly I doubt they have changed anything with the nav system in which you can operate alot of items while driving without the voice commands. I have been following other car forums and NJ is working on a bill to ban the use of nav systems while driving. Kind of like the ticket you can get for using a cell phone without a hands free device in California. So I think the block while driving is here to stay.

I agree with you smooth. Driving my IS350 I tend to get frustrated ALOT with traffic zipping in and out wanting to be the first in line at a red light. But when I am riding around in the LX470 I am much calmer and tend to drive the speed limit like it's a Sunday afternoon.

Mine does the same thing. When parked I can tell. Someone once told me it can be corrected by adjusting the torsion bar on the drivers side. I have not tried it yet but would like to know if it would really work.

My 09 IS350 shows version 8.1.

Maybe it's just a transmission mount that has gone bad or something causing a vibration in the cabin. I'd get someone to check that first. I doubt that using anything but Toyota ATF would cause massive transmission failure.....especially ONLY in the overdrive components.

I think they are trying to cheat you. Alot of the 90k service things are worthless to get done. Alot of it is just "checking parts" and not replaceing them. I would tell them exactally what you want done. The only reason you do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt is because it is available and exposed while timing belt is being changed. Usually it is done even if it is not broken. They should not change you for extra labor, but just for the part. I don't know where they got the extra 600.00 from. Here in Houston they quoted me 1300 for just the timing belt, water pump and thermostat. Seems they want 2400 for the same thing. I got all these things below for what they want from you for just timing belt and water pump. I'd check somewhere else. Back in April on my 98 LX470........ Sterling McCall Lexus Of Houston Lube/grease all undercarriage moving parts Timing Belt Thermostat Water Pump A/C and engine air filter Differential fluid change Coolant flush Auto trans fluid flush AHC fluid flush $2400.00

I'd NEVER lease. If you get into a financial problem it is harder to get out of that if you finance. Just my opinion. If you've got the money and good credit, just finance for 3 years then that is a great down payment for your next car. Should be worth around 25k after 3 years.

I doubt anything is wrong with the system. Maybe start at the beginning and make sure the A/C button is actually pressed and turned on and you do not just have the fan on. Alot of times when there is engine work done they will disconnect the battery and everything kind of resets. My 98 LX470 still blows ice cold. Never had any A/C parts replaced.

I'd tell them that no other car you have owned had rotors warp at these low miles. My 350Z had 22k miles on it when I traded it in and the rotors were in perfect shape. Under 10k miles is just horrible.

I had a 2007 ES for a loaner car while my LX was in the shop. And with only 8k miles and the rotors were warped.

The white plug where the LED light is can be removed. If you look at the left part of the LED plug you have to pull the tab out to the left then pull straight out. Hard to explain but it should be pretty simple.

Haa in a way it's funny because I have the exact opposite problem. The mirrors themselves work perfectly but sometimes the passenger side will not collapse when the button is pressed. Sometimes it needs a little extra help. If I manually collapse it and reopen it usually works 1 or 2 times before I have to help it along. I'm like to get it fixed. Does anyone know how much that costs? As far as tiny electric parts for this truck go, I am going to make an educated guess at around 800.00 each. Anyone know for sure?

another proof that "savings" in gas quality and octane are really non existent... Correct. Premium all the way!!

I am unsure if you are aware that Lexus is a Toyota product. As you know, 60k miles on a Toyota/Lexus is very low. I do not foresee any problems with the car if you decide to buy it. If I may though suggest you might like the IS350 better. It's a beast!! But because you are the economic type of guy the 250 should be great for you. I'm unsure of what the value of the car will be when you sell it later but it most likely will be higher than others. And if you don't want to spend a ton of money on maintenance you can bring it to a Toyota dealership for repairs or maintenance.

You never know. The 1st generation LX lasted for 2 years before a redesign and the 2nd generation LX lasted for 9 years before a redesign.

I hope the accumulators will last for a while longer. I just spent about 3k on the 90k service along with getting all fluids changed. When we evacuated for hurricane Ike almost a year ago we drove on a pretty far trip with the truck loaded down. Still smooth as silk and adjusted to the load properly.