SKperformance

Moved to the LS forum

As mentioned to other sellers . Since you do not have status to sell on the LOC it would be nice if you returned the favour and bought a Gold membership for the site that helped you make back your money. Small price to pay for $775 thanks

21 is the solar sensor but it always comes on when it is dark so it is not a problem. Please explain what you are saying about the wind noise and speed . Where, what speed how often and anything else to clarify what you mean?

Did you turn the interior illumination knob back up? It controls all interior bulbs levels on the dash hvac and radio.

If you never carry rear passengers then an IS is perfect. If you ever have to carry people then the GS is better. The IS makes me feel real cramps in the back but the GS is just right in comparison.

I don't think anyone ventures into the meetings section to answer. I should have made your sig banner clickable to this post.

Some interesting points of views in this thread. Get the parts online. buy the service manuals do some of the work yourself or get a local independent mechanic. Tbelt ,need to know when the last one was not just because. Leaking CV needs new boots now not when it turns a $50 part repair to a $600 one. PS pump needs to be repaired now as well.

Most Toyota's have an antenna that moves in height for different FM stations. The am radio antenna should be embedded into the rear glass.

It can be done but how reliable can it be that the door on the SC is so heavy it has a special double hinge to hold the weight.

I like the rims but not sure about the dual dual setup. It does not look bad but it has to grow on me to like it.

Ultimate ? I beg to differ. I would never clear coat a headlight. It would add refractions of light just like a reflector beveled glass . You would have to sand and sand it to a glass finish. Then once it gets heated by the headlights it would want to peel off easily unless you could rough up the glass enough to get some bite into them. otherwise stone chips and what not would flake it right off and look worse. Just polish them ,then choose to either redo them every 4 weeks or clear bra them for maximum clarity and reliability. To top it off it is now protected from minor nicks and chips as well as yellowing from oxidization.

I would get your strut rod bushings checked as well as other front end components.

eBay is the cheapest.

430 rims fit fine. 20 is the biggest that look proper on an LS anything bigger looks really bad to me and most members. You will have a big gap without lowering it though.

You can;t see the clear bra on them they look crystal clear. I applied them right to each edge and wrapped them for an invisible look.

Need atleast 5 posts to have full acess to the site.

Search for previous exhaust threads in the LS section for details.

There is a few types of ballasts. I find 4th were garbage and 5 are very good. But the 3rd gen ones are indestructible. I have 3 sets of the gen 3 Phillips ballasts.

Are you talking about your engine rad fan or your HVAC blower?

It works great but the original headlights had a slight coating to prevent the yellowing. Once sanded off you need to replace it or it yellows even faster again in a few weeks. I wet sanded mine down ,high speed buffed the headlights, turn signals and fog lights. Then covered them with clear bra vinyl and they look even better than just the buffing as they are now perfectly smooth. The pitting is gone and filled by the vinyl as well.

Easiest way it to ground the ballasts metal casing to the cars body . Second get a proper HID wiring harness that uses a relay and proper sockets to match the factory harness to the ballasts running the power from the battery and the turn on from the headlight switch only. Flickering is caused by the ballast on start up trying to overcome the resistance of the salts in the bulbs. It is either from a defective bulb or ballasts ignitior. Once you rectify the ground issue for power then you can see if the problem still exists to need to switch bulbs around and see if it moves with the bulb or stays with the ballast.

Most companies who sell the door hinge conversion only have a few months or days warranty before you having to dish out for new pieces. What kind of product are they standing behind for that low level or service. Also you do not have regular hinges in the first place which would make this conversion especially tough.

yes 97 is the same.

They are not bad but not a hot mod in any way. They look cheap on most cars as they look like normal neons but with black spots. Don't do the under seating lights they look tacky.

What kind of wiring are you using what kind of ballasts and bulbs?