steviej

Sorry, my bad, missed that line. tends to happen when you read >25 threads a night. steviej

rather than put it in D, why not try 1 and see if it will start to move from there. steviej

and the winner is.....................expansion valve. search on it and you will see similar posts. steviej

your sensor is probably just lazy. Don't be surprised if it comes on again. When the code was read by the dealer, they just reset it. Once the O2 sensor starts sending a faulty signal it will come back. This happened to me recently on a trip to Toronto. The CEL come on and went away by itself. Two weeks later it came back, the next day it was gone....all on its own. I said, screw it and replaced the A/F sensor anyways. steviej

none that the average person would notice driving less than 100 mph. steviej

check out www.l-tunedparts.com Here is the direct link. You could even get blacked out headlights to match the black taillights. steviej

no, for run of the mill maint. procedures you are not locked into have a Lexus shop do the work. Toyota shops can do it as well as independents. ***Save all your work orders and reciepts!!!***** For more specific work, don't be surprised if you are directed to a Lexus shop. Lastly, any warranty work should be done by your Lexus shop. Keep in mind, any work that is done outside of a Lexus shop will not be reflected in the Lexus' national computer system. Again, keep all you maint. records in order for later review if needed. steviej

I leave this part to my detailer. It always looks brand new when he is done. I am posting pictures in the Show and Shine forum tomorrow. steviej

On the front of a Scion Tc in a dark parking lot, and no that is not a screwdriver in my pocket, Officer. :whistles: steviej

Steve, you going with the S8 version or just the regular. I am starting the search again as I will need to start looking by fall 2006. I am insterested in what you hear when they are on and what your traction will be, as I hear both sides of the fence with these. Let us know. steviej

P0136 is for Bank 1 Sensor 2, this is the easiest A/F or O2 sensor to get at of all 4. In this picture, the sensor in question is the spark plug looking one sticking out of the U shaped exhuast pipe. The wire goes up to a connector that is easy to undo with a very small screwdriver. You will need an O2 sensor socket, a long socket wrench (for leverage), some penetrating oil- liquid wrench works, and a small amount of time. The sensor can be had at Toyota for cheaper and can even be had on the web here at sparkplugs.com for $85. Find a local independent, see if they will let you supply the part and they will put it in. Should take them less than an hour to do. If you feel up to it, I can talk you through it or give you some typed instructions. This one is wicked easy to do. The CEL and TRAC light will stay on as long as the bad O2 sensor is there. No matter how many times you "reset" the ECU, the lights will come back. Replacement is inevitable. The light combination means the car is in limp mode. Prolonged driving can do damage to other emissions related parts, especially the cat. Your gas mileage may suffer also. steviej steviej

kyle, you just replaced the springs right, you didn't touch the struts? I'm looking at the Eibach lower springs. steviej

monarch, I wish you would pick one screen name and post under it. Between your mutiple personalities of monarch, VGR, saber and ellwood on this site and CL, it gets confusing. Snesley, those filters are fine as are the M1 and K&N Gold. I use all three interchangably. steviej

if you decide to do it yourself, don't forget to add "flex" to the paint. This will allow the paint to flex with the plastic bumper after it dries and it won't crack. with all do respect, have it professionally done if you are not a body man. Around my parts, a cheap alternative is to seek out vocational high schools or trade schools that teach body shop. Many of them will do the work and only charge for the paint. The labor is in education. steviej

Are we talking the CEL (little light that looks like an engine) or are you talking about the maint. reminder light? I would guess it is the maint reminder light telling you it is time to change your oil. The reminder is probably set for the 7500 mile oil change interval. Either way, like Alan said, take it to the dealer. If it is the CEL, it is covered. If it is the oil change, it is covered too (first change is free....at least it used to be). steviej

I used the G2 kit (obtainable on TireRack.com). It is easier to apply because it comes with cleaner and it is a brush on procedure. That means no overspray. However, in all fairness, it too flakes off. I am guessing in the spots where the surface may not have been prepped as good as possible. I have some flaking going on on the rotor hats of the rear rotors. There is no flaking whatsoever from the calipers. steviej.

getting the code read does not fix the problem. It only tells you where to start looking for the reason why the code appeared. Usually due to a bad or faulty signal from one of many sensors. Most commonly they are emissions related. steviej

a DIY'er after my own heart. I love trompsing through junk yards to find simple parts. Good job. steviej

the owners manual undoubtedly tells you to go to the dealership. GPR, try this technique, it is widely used in many makes of vehicles to reset the maintenance reminder light. 1. Get in the car and put the key in the ignition. 2. Make sure you odometer is in the overall display (not trip A or trip B ). 3. Preset the reset button and hold it in. 4. While holding the button in, turn the key to ON (not START!). 5. Hold the button in for 5 to 10 seconds with the key in the ON position. The Maint. light may flash or may not. 6. Turn the key to OFF. 7. Let go of the button. Now start the car normally and see if the light went out. steviej

the A/F sensor is getting lazy if not ready to die. Ultimate fix is to replace it. This sensor is the hardest to get at. It is between the cat and the cylinder block on the bank of cylinders closest to the firewall. Not much wiggle room back there. Sensor will run you about $225 from Toyota, $275 from Lexus, but you may be able to get a Denso sensor on line (www.sparkplugs.com). steviej

possibly due to the added load on the engine from the compressor. steviej

Standard responce for when anyone states the their CEL and TRAC OFF lights are on: Get the codes read and post them up. There are hundreds of code combinations that will illuminate these lights and no one can tell you what they are unless you have them pulled form memory. lexus nationz: unfortunately, in TO, it seems no one pulls them for free. From experience, Canadian Tire wants $80 (canandian) to read them. PartsSource doesn't read them. You will have to find someone with an OBDII reader to pull them for free. Too bad, Autozone and PepBoys in the states offer this FREE service. steviej

how bout this....the opposite. #1. Someone got in the back seat, but the bottom of the door was just flush on top of the sidewalk or curb. They get in, their weight lowers the car a tad but the door doesn't move cause it is on the curb. They then step out a little to get the door off the curb and then close it and off you go. or #2. Someone slammed the door HARD and it caused the door frame mounted latch to move slightly. or #3. A totally mistery that will never be solved. steviej