steviej

it should be in your owners manual. But please note, the car is not moving when you make these adjustments. In the 02 manual, it is on pg 332-333. CHECKING THE HEADLIGHT AIM (vehicles with discharge headlight) and Adjusting the vertical aiming. steviej

this is totally your opinion, Jeff. Many will dispute it. steviej

I think you will find that Lexus/Toyota has only one filter for their V6 and it is used for both lines. The filters that end in D1 or D3 are made in Thailand. Toyota changed manufacturers in December 2003. Hopefully there is no difference between these and their predecessor. Other alternatives that work very well are Mobil 1 (M1-102) and K&N Gold (HP-1002). The K&N actually has a molded nut on the end of the case that will help you remove it, as it is a tight and hot squeeze getting a filter wrench up under the exhaust manifold. steviej

they will probably burn out in 3-6 months and you will be left holding a dead bulb. Is there a replacement warranty in case of premature failure. Not to mention, you risk melting your wiring harness if you go with a higher wattage than what is OEM. I will venture a guess the 100w highs will cause you a meltdown. kyle, go with what we know. Silverstars or PIAAs. steviej

If it is not the aim, then it may be the actual plastic lens or housing has dulled or fogged. If they are the projector style, then it would require removing the entire headlight assembly and baking it apart so that you can get at the projector lens. Then simple cleaning of the plastic using Novus (sp?) or Mequiar's Plastic Polish. If they are the reflector style, then try cleaning the outside of the entire headlight using Novus (sp?) or Mequiar's Plastic Polish. good luck, steviej

actually I think most of us made the choice to stop submitting to this thread. guys, settle down on the back and forths. It appears tempers are starting to flair up a tad. If it continues the thread will be closed if not removed. now lets all play nice together. :chairshot: steviej

go for it, but save your reciepts and the orginal parts.....just in case. Look at the bigger picture, there is no bigger return on your investment than the experience and knowledge that you will gain by doing it. If it doesn't work out, go back to stock and sell the dragon on ebay as slightly used. steviej

Although the ES has automatic leveling, there is a manual adjustment that can be made. However, this is not an on the fly adjustment. I guess it would be trial and error until you found a happy medium. steviej

If I am not mistaken, it consists of removing 4 nuts and the entire headlight assembly flops out. Then you will have easy access to the blinkers. try searching on "turn signal replacement" or something like that cause this has been discussed endlessly. steviej

kenny, I found it. 1. Rasie the car and support with two jackstands. Never trust the jack alone. 2. Remove the bolts that hold the black plastic shield(s). (the 02 had 5 10mm bolts along the underside of the bumper). 3. The black plastic push pins come next. There where about 10-12. The 02 ES had 2 sections. I removed all but one push pin for each section. This way I could rotate the shield out of the way of the back of the fog light and get my head up in there. The shield was still attached so realignment took seconds. 4. The push pins could be removed with a large screw driver and a Ford Wrench (big f....n hammer). Just knock the head off them. or use the large screwdrive and pry them out. They will make a pop and fall out. The 02 had pins that break upon removal. Don't worry, they are cheap. 5. The back of the fog light has a plactic cover that will turn 90 degrees and then pull out. Don't pull to far cause it is connected by two wires. One wire is for the switch and one wire is for the power to the bulb. 6. The white wire is the bulb wire, it pulls out from the housing unit with a little tug. 7. There is a spring clip that you push in and at the same time move to one side, then it pulls toward the back, releasing pressure on the bulb. Hold the bulb from the back. Pull it out slowly and orient yourself with the cut-outs on the ground plate of the bulb. One side had a square notch and opposite that was a half moon notch. Remeber which is up and which is down, or left and right. The exiting bulb is your guide for insertion of the new bulb. 8. Insert the new buld in the same orientation, put the spring clip back, plug in the wire, replace the black cover and move to the other fog light. DON'T TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR BARE FINGER. Body oils will create hot spots on the glass and the crack or burn out quicker. 9. The other fog light interesting enough was the same, but the spring clip and wire were opposite and upside down from the first side. My guess is that Lexus makes one housing and uses it on both sides, thus making a mirror image. 10. Turn on your lights to see if you connected them right. 11. Stand back and admire your work. 12. Get back under the car and reposition the shields. Put the bolts in but not tight all the way. 13. Replace the push pins with new ones (Lexus parts department if you want original) or AutoZone for a bag of push pins--usually a bag of 10 costs about $3.00. The push pins come in many sizes and varieties. Bring one of the popped originals with you to size correctly. The christmas tree type can be used several times before the multitude of tiny barbs are too weak. 14. Tighten the bolts, lower the car. Drive to friend's house and show them what you did. Enjoy the rest of your day. This took me about 45 minutes. I didn't raise the car, so it was a bit tight but do-able. The car is stock and not lowered. I actually put in PIAA ion crystals because I like the yellow fog light look. But the Silverstar fogs will match your new headlights. Good luck and have fun. steviej

Kenny, good work. The fog lights are like a mini version of the H7 bulbs. You will just need to jack up the front end and support it. This way you got some wiggle room. I posted a step by step on CL. Give me a few minutes and I will post it here. I just gots to go finds it. Back in a minute. steviej. ps, your fogs are H3-55w. Sylvania does make a Silverstar edition of them.

I assume that if one replaces their lex with an audi or BMW then that info should be updated. This is a website for people that appreciate lexus not necessarly own a lexus, correct? What does one fill in if they don't own a lexus and would still like to join? I ask, cause we will be asked. steviej

that little tidbit of info helps. I would start the car, and open the hood. Make sure their is no cover (regtangular plastic thingie) on the plenum. Visually inspect all hoses and fittings. Look for any cracked hoses or hoses that have actually popped off their connector. Now stand outside the engine bay and listen for the humming. Have a friend rev the car up to 1000rpm then slowly to 2000 rpm. Listen for the humming and again try to pinpoint the location. Being a 92, the rubber hoses may have dried up a little, stiffened up or even cracked over the years. They may not be tight or secure on their conncectors or fittings. This can allow air in or out and change any readings that the ECU thinks it is getting. If you find one that is off, put it back on. If the end is dried, cut it back to good rubber and reattach it or replace the entire hose totally. If you replace it, take the old one to the autoparts store to match up length and inside diameter. good luck again. steviej

I vote for carbon build up on the Idle Air Control valve or a lazy fuel pump. Did the car start back up in a few seconds and you were able to drive away? Does it seem rough when you go from 60 mph to 10 mph in a matter of feet, like at a stop light? Is this the first time or has it been doing this at every stop light? Like dropspace said, you may want to take it to a mechanic so he can hook up a scan tool and monitor exactly what is going on right when the car stalls. steviej ps, it matters not that the previous posts were mostly 02 and not 92's. The 1MZ-FE engine has been in the ES for almost 10 years and the 92 motor is somewhat similar. The problems you raise have been seen in many a model year. One man's suggestion may be another man's solution regardless of year.

If the light stays on it means the driver's and passengers airbags fail. If it is flashing, then the seat belt pretensioners fail. Take it to Lexus and have them look at it. Are you still under warranty? steviej my suggestion: drive safe and don't hit anything head on until you get it looked at ASAP.

I'm not going to quote what sk wrote but I back him 100% on this issue. I always use it, no matter what the incline. It was taught to me in driver's ed. back in 1980 and I still abide by it today. Automatic transmission have a little pin that keeps the shift/car in park when not moving. There is a tremendous amount of stress imparted on this little device. Many an automaker has reports of cars "slipping out of park" because these pins do sometimes fail. Manual trannies are a different story, they rely upon compression and gears to hold the car in place. The shift lever needs only to be bumped and slip out of gear and away you go. The parking brake is just that, it is for parking and should be used whenever the car is not in use. Come to a stop, apply the parking brake, then place shift lever into P. This will keep the p-brake adjusted, mechanically fit, and will eliminate the loud clunck when going into R or D on the next venture. steviej

If you have a 2000 then your lows are bulb type H7 (unless you have HID) and your highs are 9005. The bulbs have a large rubber boot covering the wiring harness and the area where it goes into the back of the headlight housing. Carefully wiggle the black rubber boot off. H7 bulbs do not use a twist to get them in, there should be a metal spring clip that has to unclip on on end and then the whole spring swings out of the way and the bulb is free to remove. The low beams are the outside two headlights. The highs are 9005 bulbs. These are the twist and then pull out type. Once either are out, gently pull the wiring harness off the back of the bulb. Replace with new bulb and then reverse your steps to get them back in. Here is a trick, only do one side at a time and use the other side as a visual guide if you have never done this before. The H7s are a little trickier but easy once you do it. good luck. steviej

go to your dealer and sit in a demo RX330 and see if that one does it also. Then go sit in an 04 ES330 and see if that one does it. They all have the same motor. If it doesn't then ask the dealer so swap out the fuel injectors of the motor that doesn't make the sound with your injectors that he claims is the problem. push the warranty/customer satisfaction issue. It would be very easy to pinpoint to a fuel injector by using a long (I mean long) screw driver. Place the metal end on the motor next to injector and place the front of your ear on the other end of the screw driver. You will be able to hear the clicking/tapping quite loudly if it were the injector. A stethescope works great hear and there is even a mechanics tool called a "Chassis Ear" that will pinpoint noises quite accurately. steviej

The dealer I go to advertises the 60k for just over $900. It includes: Oil and filter, tranny fluid flush and diff fluid change, total coolant flush, brake fluid flush, new spark plugs (I don't think wires are replaced), air filter, cabin filter (depending on year), rotation of tires, brake inspection, top off windshield washer fluid, winshield wiper blade replacement. Oh yeah, don' forget the complimentary car wash, coffee and donuts/muffins/danish. Alot of that stuff can be done in the driveway, thus reducing you total cost. steviej

haven't seen one of those yet, but I know what you meant. Is it the (ABS) light or the BRAKE light? If it is the word "brake" lit then just add fluid and that should take care of it. Toyota/Lexus brake fluid level sensors are very sensitive and often trigger the light before the fluid is visually low in the reservoir. If it is the yellow (ABS) light, then get it checked out by a ceritifeid Lexus mechanic. It may be a sensor or it may be the ABS modulator valve. steviej

if you have any doubt, then save your stock wheels and tires. If a problem should happen to develop, then you put the stock wheels on and go get it covered under warranty. No big deal. steviej

what happened to Leo's hybrid that he so proudly boasted from the podium during an Earth Day celebration? Must be his city car. ;) steviej

that is common to all 02+ ES's and not just the Sport Design. I like it too...no big thumb button to forget to not press. steviej

there is a military term for lexus intermediate services.....BOHICA. Anyone in the service should know what that stands for, if not, pm me and I will explain. The 10k serivce can be done completely at home. 1. oil and filter are a piece of cake. 5 parts oil and 1 part filter. 2. rotating the tires can be done front to back with the jack that comes in the car if you don't have a floor jack. second piece of cake. 3. the cabin filter is the third piece of cake and can be obtained at www.iron-toad.com for almost half of what the dealer is going to charge you ($29 vs $56 or so). ( I didn't have to change mine until 20k, but this will be geographically dependent) 4. last piece of cake, you can visually inspect the brake, coolant, tranny and windshield washer fluids. save your money for the really big services (multiples of 15). steviej ps, if you can't tell, I like cake.

es300man, please chill out. skperformance posted that for a reason. The orginal thread by jbrubaker was started in the Working Tutorial section of this forum and not the ES 330/300 section. sk responded and then moved the entire thread to the appropriate section, that's all. now everybody's cool. steviej