steviej

If you speak of "the fix" that came out in Aug 2003 (TC004-03), this fix is NOT a fix for the hesitation. It is a flash rewrite of the ECM to appease the masses for the multiple tranny issues and the and the only think it achieved was removing the slight joggle that could be felt when the tranny hunted for 5th at about 40mph. this fix is also perminent and you are asked to sign a form stating you are aware of this. This means if you don't like the fix you are crap out of luck. Your old ECU program cannot be re-flashed over the fix. Poppi, after you get "the fix", post back after the tranny has had enough time to relearn your driving habits. Let us know if the hesitation is still there. I will bet it is. My service manager was so unhappy with "the fix", he would allow me to get it. I have such a good relationship with the dealer, he said I would be a much bigger PIA after the fix cause I definateley wouldn't like it. Also, all ES's made after 8/03 supposedly have the fix programmed into the tranny already. If any late 2003, 2004 or 2005 ES owner has a hesitiation........there's your proof, the fix didn't cure the hesitation. steviej

don't let two bad apples sour your taste for Lexus. The dealerships are independent and not all care for their customers as we would like to be treated. Take you business elsewhere and tell them the whole strory. The dealership closest to you or the one you will want to do service with. They will most likely welcome you with open arms. As suggested, definately tell the ordeal to 800-255-3987. A letter to the GM, sales manager and salesman detailing the events and the resulting loss of 6 guarenteed sales is in order. CC a copy to the Lexus corporate office and the owner of the dealership. Hang in there Vicki, you deserve the Lexus you want, but you do not deserve to be treated like you did. steviej

go to your local lexus dealer and look at the 2005 17" ES rims. They are very similar/almost exact to the IS rims. They most definately will fit. and yes the IS 17" rims will fit. I have seen several pics of Es's with them on. take a look at the body kit from Carson Toyota steviej

on my 2002, -if the little light comes on and stays on when the headlight switch is turned to the first or second clickstop, it means a taillight bulb is out. -if the little light comes on when you step on the brake pedal, it means a brake light bulb is out. steviej

sk, if the egr valve was stuck open, would that not set off an egr associated code? steviej

no he didn't, he said they pulled one plug and it was ok. steviej

pure sunny and warm day, good food, excellent people and some magnificent rides. TOTALLY AWESOME TIME!!!! I will start a new thread with pictures very very soon. steviej

riz, this is a 2 person job or you can park back to a big mirror. if the little icon comes on when you step on the brake pedal, then it means a brake light is out. If the icon stays lit regardless of stepping on the pedal then it is a taillight or misc bulb that is out. have someone stand behind the car while you step on the brake. The left and right bulbs are easily accessed through the 4x4 square doors inside the trunk just behind the bulb. The high mount buld is easy too. get in the back seat and face out the back window. put a hand on each side of the cover to the high mount light. slide the cover to your left (not the car's left). then pull up on the leading edge of the cover and then direct the cover up and out. The bulb will still be inserted to the cover, just twist the connector and it comes loose. remove old, insert new and put it back in reverse order. steviej

I agree with SW03ES, its time to change them out. If not for the tire itself, for your piece of mind. I had the same dilemna last fall but didn't and all winter I obssessed about it but didn't act on it. I wasted alot of time just worrying whether or not I would make it without incident in the next snow storm. To answer your next unasked question......look into the Toyo Proxes TPT as your next tire if you want to avoid the exorbitant price of the Mickeys. steviej

yes you can buy the sensor at Toyota and you can install it yourself. It is not suprising that the sensor went at this many miles. Check with Autozone and see if you can borrow an O2 sensor socket, or just purchase one, they are about $12-15. Do not use a regular socket because you will crush or kink the wire coming out the end. A box end wrench may work but it is hard to finagle in that area. Bank 2 Sensor 1 is the easy one. You can get at it from standing in front of the car. Open the hood and look down at the exhaust manifold between the engine and the radiator. Then spark plug looking thing with the wire sticking out of it is the sensor. When the motor is cold, grasp the wire and follow it back to the plug. Feel the sides of the plug, there is usually a lock prongor clip that has to be released before you pull out the plug. Use the new sensor's plug as an indicator of what you need to feel for. It is up under the manifold and pipe so it is hard to see while standing in front of the car. Unscrew the sensor from the manifold with the O2 sensor or box wrench. When you get it out, whip it across the driveway so that you do not mix it up with the new one. Take the new one out of the box and install it in the reverse steps. When you start the car, the new one will send the proper signal and the CEL should reset itself. I have never had to disconnect the battery, though some have suggested doing this to clear the code. steviej PS, the first line of you post says December of 1993, I think you meant 2003. :whistles:

Are you installing no-name brand bulbs or ebay bulbs? Are both bulbs going or just one bulb? If it is just one bulb, is it always the same side that is blowing? I'm thinking you might have a problems with the relay and it may be creating a surge that blows the bulb. I have a pair of PIAA Xtreme Whites (9005) that are going on 2 years and PIAA crystal ions fogs going on 18 months. They are always on. steviej

I am assuming that because your screen name is "RobsES330" that you are driving a 2004 or 2005. You description claims "none yet" so you may be driving a Yugo for all I know. With that in mind I'll make the following statements as general as possible. The 2002 ES and newer has the gated shifter. When the selector is in "D" it is in the proper setting for the 5th gear or OD gear to be engaged if needed. No button need be pressed. If you move the lever to "4" then you have canceled out the ability of the tranny to go into OD. Models previous to 2002 had the inline shifter that had a button you needed to engage for OD to be available. steviej

P0300 is misfiring of random cylinders detected during any particular 200 or 1000 revolutions. Trouble areas: -Open or short in engine wire -Connector connection -Vacuum hose connection -Ignition system -Fuel pressure -Intake air flow meter -EFI engine coolant temp. sensor -Compression pressure -Valve clearence -Valve timing -PCV hose connection -ECM steviej

that's my idea for next spring. steviej

I believe the powertrain warranty is 7 year or 70,000 miles and it only covers selected parts. Check you supplemental service manual for a listing of what is covered. steviej

a.c. the 9005 is the high beam bulb. the H7 is the low beam buld if you DO NOT have high intensity discharge (HID) headlights. Open the hood, and look directly behind the headlights. The low beam bulbs are the outer large bulbs, and the high beams are the inner bulbs next to the turn signals. There is a black boot with a wire coming out of the center. Carefully work the boot off. The 9005 bulbs actually twist in the housing and then they release. Carefully pull the bulb out of the housing and then you can swap the bulbs out. Reinsert and twist again. Slide the boot back up the wire and seat it properly to cover the bulb. The H7 is a different story. The boot is the same so slide that off. They peer inside the back of the light housing. Look for a metal spring clip. It is hinged on one side and behind a hook on the other end. Push in and up or down to unhook the spring. Then swing the clip out of the way. This releases pressure on the bulb and then the buld can be withdrawn by pulling the wire harness carefully. Remove the bulb, reconnect the new one, reinsert in to the housing, reclip the spring and replace the boot. Pay careful attention to the orientation of the boot, ther should be an arrow indicating TOP. And MOST Of ALL: never touch the glass of the bulb with your bare fingers. let me know if you need any more instruction. steviej

that is a loaded question. May factors come into play when trying to decide on what is the best tire. These include road surfaces, types of weather, level of importance (handling, noise and treadware), driving style, price, etc. I suggest you go to www.tirerack.com and at least try their automated tire selector to find out what fits your selected driving/area pattern. Mind you, this will only give you suggestions of tires that TireRack sells. I suggest that you also find other tire sales websites and try their tire selector options. I think another site is www.discounttire.com (maybe off by a letter to two). Look in the back or any MotorTrend, R&T or C&D magazine to find a couple. good luck, steviej

did the programming part work in the past? are you programming them the correct way? did anything spill on switch? is the switch hook up or maybe the wire the goes to/from the switch is broken or cracked? have you removed the switch and looked at it or tested it? I ask all of these questions because your question is not a new one and the resolution to previous questions has been something that I asked. steviej

they need to offer more H rated sizes!!! steviej

my 2002 ES is about to come out of the 4ys/50k mile warranty. I indulged in the 2 volume set Lexus shop manual. The suspect areas are what are listed for each code. Year doesn't matter on most of the codes because the codes are for the 1MZ-FE. steviej

I gave you a list of suspect areas: -Gas leakage on exhaust system (i think they mean exhaust gas, not fuel) -A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) -heated oxygen sensor (bank 1 sensor 2) -exhaust manifold have each one checked out or look them over yourself. steviej

drive to Autozone and have then pull the codes, it is a free serives. Post all the codes here. We can't help if we don't know what the code(s) is(are). steviej

lexus300aa, you are double posting you quesitons and that is going to get confusing for everyone. Here is the my responce to this question from the other thread. P0171 is System too lean, (Fuel Trim) bank 1. Here are your trouble areas: -Air Intake hose, loose or cracked -Fuel line pressure -Injector blockage -Open or short Air/Fuel sensor circuit -Intake air flow meter -EFI engine coolant temperature sensor -Gas (exhaust gas not fuel) leakage on exhaust system -PCV hose connection hope this helps. steviej

At the top of this forum are some pinned threads. The thread about clearing corners will give you instructions on how to open up the headlights to clean then and how to seal them up again. As for bulbs. PIAAs are pricey but worth it. The Xtreme Whites are a good color/kelvin choice and very very bright. They go for about $80/pair and can be ordered online for cheaper. I have had good luck form this place. An alternative is to use Sylvania Silverstars. They can be obtained at Autozone and Pepboys and at the site given above. They run for about $25 each at the store. Right now, I think sylvania is running a $5 rebate per bulb and the rebate details are available on their website. steviej

thanks for the added hype. B) :D I posted it in every model forum including the ES forum. and in the Club Events and Meetings Forum, here. steviej