RX400h

The oil pressure reading on most oil pressure gauges will vary according to the oil's temperature. When you start the vehicle after it had been sitting overnight, for example, the gauge will read higher than after you have been driving (oil temperature is much higher) awhile. Engine RPM will also change the gauge reading - higher RPM = higher gauge reading. So compare cold and hot conditions when the engine is at idle speed and then again as a steady engine speed.

Did you try to start the car and then turn the key to the off position?

Rockauto.com lists the Denso coils as "DENSO coil interchanges with OE Diamond coil; OE Quality Replacement Part" ($53.79 each) https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2008,rx350,3.5l+v6,1438207,ignition,ignition+coil,7060 I would certainly trust Denso.

Perhaps you should suggest that he have everything fixed completely and then charge you the average private seller selling price, you will more seriously consider his offer.

Some points to consider: As you probably know, mid-engine sportscars, even with rear-drive only, typically have a fairly significant acceleration advantage over front engine/rear drive sportscars. This is certainly the case with NSX vs LC500. Certainly, depreciation become less of a factor, the longer you keep your vehicle. Is there a possibility that you will, in the near future sell the car you select? A search of 2018 LC500s (entire US) revealed one structural blue version at $90,000 asking price. Typical 2018 LC500s are being offered at $72,000 - $77,000, depending upon mileage and options. I could not find the MSRP and typical selling price of the structural blue LCs. 2018 NSXs can be had for $138,000 or so. A $30,000 discounts is steep, considering that this is not a car with an MSRP of $200,000+. The reliability of NSX models are listed as average by Kelly Blue Book. I have no doubt that the LC500 will prove to be above average, as are most Lexus vehicles. This is certainly a tough choice, as both cars are beautiful and rare. Either way, I have no doubt you will thoroughly enjoy your new ride.

Hello, Steve. Would it be possible for you to take it to a dealership for a complete checkup? I know that there is cost involved but it could save you hundreds, if not thousands of dollars. However, based upon your very detailed descriptions I would recommend that you look elsewhere. As an example, our 2006 RX400h (purchased in April of 2005) has over 130,000 miles on its odometer. Our timing belt service ( believe at 90,000 miles), coolant change, sparkplugs (at 120,000 miles), and brake services have been done. Our NAV, backup camera, HVAC system, and everything else works perfectly. Best regards, Dave

Here's a procedure that should be similar to what you need to do. It was posted in 2010 by the owner of a 2005 RX330:

I looked at a few photos and drawings of this tank but none showed any internal tubing. You can always call the parts department at the dealership and ask if their drawing shows any.

According to www.tirerack.com, your tire size from the factory should be 225/60-16. Optional sizes are: 235/50-18 or 234/50-18 (front) and 265/40-18 (rear) You may want to ask the tire shop if your wheel will accept four of the 235/50-18 tires. I think that is your best option.

For this type of problem, you can take it to an honest, local mechanic. The cost depends upon what exactly is wrong.

Very nice - seems to be a good deal. I'd prefer a color other than black, though.

I agree with Mr CB. That type of sensor is in the same place on our 2014 Mazda 3. We've had that car for over 6 years and never had a rock hit it. But then again, my highway use is mostly limited. Word of advice: If you can, avoid driving close behind anyone on the highway, but especially behind vehicles with off-road tires. If at all possible, I try to drive in a lane where the car in front is far away.

How old is the battery? Reconnect it to see if you can open the door. But really, the first thing I would do is to take the battery to Costco or an auto parts store and have them charge and then load-test it. If the battery is deemed to be good or is bad and is replaced, have your alternator tested with the battery installed. My guess is that the battery needs to be replaced but depending upon the number of miles you have on the odometer, the alternator could also cause the battery to drain over time.

Is there a chance that the vehicle's wheels had been immersed in water for a period of time? Our RX400h is over 15 years old and has never had this issue. Under normal conditions, wheels should never rust like that. It is possible to take them to a shop that coats wheels. I had a set of Enkei wheels powder coated for my MX5.The cost to do was $100 per wheel. Another option is finding a good set of used wheels from someone who replaced them with aftermarket wheels. A junkyard may also have a good set.

It is often more likely that front damage results in a total loss that includes little chance of even rebuilding the vehicle with a salvage title. Rear-damaged vehicles can often be purchased from the insurance company (after being "totaled") and repaired with salvage title, but the vehicle's value will be only 50-60% of a "clean title" vehicle. I understand that you may feel very attached to the SC, especially if you owned it for many years but the reality is that with the money you receive from the offender's insurance company, you may be able to find a non-salvaged SC430 that will always be worth more than a salvaged one. Maybe it's time to get that LC500. 🙂

I updated our RX's disc once in 15+ years. Most of the time it knows the address but occasionally we use our phones if we're going to a new neighborhood. How often would you think you'd really need it? If not very, save your money.

Another common issue with some cars is uneven brake pad deposits on the rotor, due to hot spots. This has nothing to do with warping of the rotors. I experienced this with my 2001 Corvette. After the dealership turned the rotors at 16,000 miles everything was fine until 32,000 miles. At that point I bought high quality cryogenically hardened and slotted rotors. The problem never came back, even after 22,000 miles of hard use.

I would guess that the 30K and 60K maintenance intervals also have time limitations associated with mileage. Most owners would probably end up using the time recommendation. For oil and oil filter changes, we use mileage and not time, primarily because I use synthetic oil, and we never take very short trips. Currently when we go grocery shopping I take the RX on the highway for 10 miles, turn around and head to the store. That was a great find when you discovered the vinyl wrap. Speaking of wrap, how do you like this one on the Corvette I rented. People couldn't help but stare, wherever I went. The other reason why they stared is that the car had no catalytic converters and was hilariously loud.

The clue may be that you jump-started the battery a couple of times. This could've caused something within your head unit to be flaky. If the OEM works perfectly after reinstall, I can't think of anything else it could be.

I would take it to a good alignment shop. They tend to be experts at suspension and alignment component issues that cause drivability problems.

That still looks great! I have to polish the lenses every few years. They will never look like brand new headlights but for the $6 worth of materials, they look good enough. I would think that new headlights would be mounted close to where the originals were mounted but in the event you need to adjust them, the the headlight adjustment hardware should be visible when you look around the headlights. You may be able to find a video of how to adjust them on Youtube.

They are like little toys that are so much fun to drive, not everyday but when the weather and conditions are right. My MX5 is a 2008 PRHT with Smartop module so the top can be raised and lowered at up to 30 MPH. Other mods are: Progress springs with Koni Sport adjustable shocks (lowered about 1 inch) Beefier anti-sway bars, front and rear Enkei Racing wheels - powder coated Mazdaspeed Cold Air Intake (previous owner-installed) Retina-scorching LED fog lights (previous owner-installed)

Doug, I have not yet finished some Connolly cleaner that I had from a while back, but my guess is that the Zaino cleaner will work well, if their leather conditioner is any indication. When I sold my Corvette in 2014, the new owner told me it was like buying a brand new car, especially with the leather smell from the seats. My 2014 Mazda3 2.5S has paddle shifters, and it is as easy moving the auto shifter to the left while in drive to enter the manual shifting mode. Simply slapping it to the right exits that mode. So if you put your shifter in manual mode while the car is stationary, are you in first gear? I'll have to try that with my Mazda3. My Miata has a manual transmission and tons of fun to drive. But yes, using sport mode in most cars that have it does reduce mileage but it can be addicting at times. I have felt faster acceleration after swapping the 27lb each factory wheels with 17 lb Enkei Racing wheels. The downside is that more noise is transmitted through the lighter and more dense wheels, especially on certain types of road surfaces.

Now that looks like it'll be a fun trip, Everett. Enjoy!

Everett, you may want to try the first two products shown here: https://www.zainostore.com/category/interiortires.html I've been using their leather-in-a-bottle for 20+ years and it is amazing. Its smell is exactly like that of fresh leather. Paddle shifters are fun but not with an easily scared wife. I think the nicest thing about them is the downshifting sound from the exhaust. Of course, open, curvy roads are made for manual shifting; driving in medium to heavy city traffic is definitely not. Dave