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I remember Toyota having a recall or a notice of some kind because of defective radiators in about '04 or '05. I also remember one poster having his radiator replaced by Lexus on warranty and then the second one went bad, just like you. Since it's an '04, I would definitely contact Lexus about it because MOST radiators last the life of the vehicle (I assume this is the plastic tank that is cracked). There ARE radiator shops that replace the plastic tanks, but I am sure most would much rather sell you a new radiator and make the same money they would by replacing the tank. IF you are going to replace the radiator, I would suggest you buy online or locally. There are a LOT of places that sell radiators anymore and if you can install it yourself, it would be a LOT cheaper than having a dealer do it.

Too bad you're not on the west coast, I'd do it for you. It's not hard to do with all the help on here, but for someone who isn't used to doing things like that or used to working on their own car it's a little tough. Good Luck!

Can you explain a little more in detail exactly what's going on. When you say the remote never worked, does it also mean that you have NO power locks, that even the power lock button inside doesn't work? I live in Orange County, but that's about 90-100 mi. from San Diego. It is not likely that ALL your locks are bad at the same time. Sounds like it could be the master switch on the LF door. Or it could be the computer that the signal flows through. Have you checked ALL fuses? Under the hood and inside?

TBD- I've listened to the MP3 about a dozen more times and am assuming you have listened to it from this site. Wondering if it sounds the same in real life as it does in the MP3. You characterize it as a whining sound. On the recording I would describe it as a scratching sound. It does sound a little like change in a glass jar, but still more scratchy to me. Tough to diagnose even with the recording. A little like a bare dry branch scratching against a window.

Sorry Tybo- Just noticed the reply and listened to the sound. I still think it is coincidental that you have that noise, but ANYTHING is possible. Since it is so far removed from where they changed the belts, I still think it would have to be extremely remote that they would have done anything in the steering wheel to column area. What it sounds like to me is the contacts that take the signal from whatever controls there are on the steering wheel (and possibly air bag also) yo where ever they need to connect to. The contacts are normally brass and have a small amount of grease on them and when that grease dries up, the contacts wear and make noise. The wheel needs to be removed and the contacts cleaned and regreased (if the contacts aren't worn too badly) with a grease that will not inhibit the transfer of the electrical current of those signals. DO NOT do this yourself unless you are completely knowledgeable about this type of operation and have the proper equipment to do it. NEVER work around the air bags without disconnecting the battery and letting the AB system drain of ANY electrical current it may temporarily store. (it does) This may not be what it is, but from the recording that's what it sounds like to me.

I'm kind of surprised that you would have problems with an '05, but the most common problem is the starter solenoid. The contacts in the solenoid carry the load for the starter motor and therefore get "arced" (burned) pretty badly. They sell repair parts, both from Toyota and aftermarket for the solenoid and they're pretty cheap aftermarket (not quality, just price). The fact that the starter is running but the solenoid is not kicking it in may possibly mean the solenoid is failing. Doesn't happen often, but could. If you are mechanically inclined, you can take the starter off (it's right in plain view on top above the transmission) and very easy to take off. You can take it apart and more than likely tell from looking (certainly by testing) to see what the problem is. I am not a big believer in rebuilt of hardly anything at all, the rebuilt hardly ever last very long before they give problems again. Most people and even shops will just throw a rebuilt on, but I have learned in a lifetime in automotive work that I am better repairing what I have than trusting $8. an hour help with cheap parts to rebuilt something that will give me trouble free service for any length of time. Good luck and let us know if you need more help.

Kari- with the directions on this site and Club Lexus and the pictures it should not be hard to do for anyone who is halfway alert. I like challenges and though only 2 of them were bad on my DIL's RX, I went ahead and replaced all 4 because I knew the others would go in time. I had the misfortune of having to figure out how to do it as there were none of these instructions when I did it almost 4 years ago on her car. I didn't have the almost $1300. that Lexus wanted for the 4 including tax and neither did they. I was able to use 4 donated Ford actuators, just a lot of work figuring it all out. Good Luck!

Thanks for the reply. I would agree that the 5 year old battery is probably getting weak. But I charged it fully and tested it and it was good. But then after vehicle sat for a couple of days, the voltage was down to 12.1 volts. That's when I checked the current draw. Looks like I"ll look for a new battery. How did you test the battery after you had charged it?

Kari- where in Ca. are you located? If it were close (Orange Co.) I would do it for you for free after the 1st. of the year. (gone til then) No, not looking for anything but to help someone out, I've been happily married for over 47 yrs. I have done it on all 4 doors on our DIL's RX and did it on another members RX for him. The actuator (factory) is an assembly that includes everything in the one shell. The sad part is it is a $1-5. tiny motor inside that goes bad, but the shell is fused together and has to be cut apart if you can get the OEM type motor. I suggest using the aftermarket actuator that can be purchased for $5. because this will only be the 1st of others (in the other doors) that need to be replaced, if they haven't already. :)

I would say that should be completely normal. You have a draw for keep alive memory and 60 ma. is only 6/100ths of an amp. That is nothing. I would say the battery must be weak. Unless there is something that intermittently draws and wasn't drawing when you tested, the 60 ma. couldn't possibly be the problem.

Doesn't seem possible for there to be ANY connection between changing the belts and a noise in the steering column (especially up by the steering wheel). That being said, the only way to know for sure that it is strictly coincidental rather than something they may have done is to find out what the noise actually is. Then you'll know if it's their responsibility or not. A lot of things happen to a car when it's in a shop, but I wouldn't accuse them of being responsible unless you determine that it was actually something they did, because it is so far removed from anything to do with the drive belts.

Art- that's the reason I believe in rebuilding them myself. Don't have that "short life with rebuilt parts " problem. :(

I think you probably made the better choice with the Interstate battery. Do you have a Sam's Club in your area? I believe the Sam's Clubs in some areas sell the Interstate battery, and for quite a bit less than that.

Matt- It's a little hard for me to tell from that picture but if that is the other end of the cable that comes from the inside door handle itself, that cable is replaceable. I have replaced both of the cables in the drivers door of my DIL's RX. Not because they broke but because I was working on it and not yet fully understanding all the interworkings of the drivers door actuator assy., I accidently ran the window up and caught the cables and damaged them. Probably be Lexus only, seemed like they were about $20. each, but don't quote me on that, it was about 3 years ago.

Do you still have the door panel off? It should be easy to follow the mechanism from the handle to the latch without taking anything further apart. If you have the inside handle off, put it back on. 1st, pull the inner plastic liner down part way so you can see the cables an the door latch. the plastic that the cable "snaps" into may have broken, but when you pull the handle as if to open the door, you should be able to see what is not working properly. The cable end may have popped out of it's snap cradle or it may have broken. Let us know what you see when you do this. The door opening mechanism is part of the door locking actuator, but I am not aware of anyone complaining of anything BREAKING in there.

Fair enough, I apologize to sir. :) I don't want ot put any oil on any fire (pun intended), but I trust the dealer more than I trust the politicians, or, to put it differently, I listen to what they have to say before deciding, which I don't with politicians any more. Fair enough Paul- I vote in every election but as I told my boss one time, it's to the point that I have to hold my nose when I go into the both. Politics stinks so bad anymore. I READ enough to know where the politicians stand, but I refuse to listen to political speeches by any politician. I don't like to listen to lies and that's about what I'm going to hear. I look at what a politician has done in the past (because that's pretty much what he's going to do in the future, regardless of what he's told you to get elected). Most of them are pretty much like an auction house... FOR SALE TO THE HIGHEST BIDDER!

Thanks. Can you please elaborate where to find and how to reset the plug? I'm novice but eager to learn. BTW, the ECL has not come on for two days. Jason- When you open the hood look straight down on the front exhaust. You will find what looks like a spark plug with a 4 wire lead on it and a plug at the end of that lead. That is your front A/F ratio sensor. (the one that triggered the P1150 code) Refer to my last post as to how to "reset" the plug. The plug I'm referring to is the plug on the end of that 4 wire lead.

Jason- They could have (but probably didn't) disturb the sensor wiring during replacement of the alternator. Modern electronics are very fickle and can drive you nuts sometimes. My suggestion- ANY TIME you have electronic gremlins, the 1st thing to do is "reset" the plug (or fuse). Unplug and replug it 3-5 times. That will clean the oxidization off and very possibly clear your problem. Doesn't have to look dirty to lose contact! My guess is that is what is going on.

That wasn't a personal attack, just an attempt at some light hearted humor. :D

FF- you believed what the dealer told you??? I'll bet you believe what politicians say too, heh??? :lol:

You might want to take a look yourself and see if it is just the joints on the shaft or if it's something else. If it's just the joints you might want to try spraying some "WD-40" or something similar that will get into there and maybe free it up. Doesn't seem like he would have called it a "lower steering shaft" if it was the rack and pinion and it's hard to imagine how the R&P would get rusty (where it counts). I don't know of any serviceable areas on either of them.

GB- Yes, when the heater is inop (broken) it will have little discernable effect on the way the engine runs because the heater is not actually on much of the time. Most of the time the exhaust heat gives the A/F sensors all the heat they need to function properly.

Try "resetting" your fuses. It it not uncommon for fuses and contacts on connections in modern cars to get a little oxidization on those points and fail to carry the load through. The fuses and contacts DO NOT HAVE TO LOOK DIRTY to fail to carry the load. I prefer to use a little "Contact cleaner and lube" spray (Radio Shack), but it may not be necessary. Just pull the fuse straight out and back in 2 or 3 times and see if that makes a difference. (Hint- that is the 1ST THING you should do when you have electrical gremlins, unless you LIKE chasing your tail) Good luck!

From your original description I doubt that is the cause of the knocking, but I have been wrong before. I have had broken mounts and have known many others who have had broken mounts and have had a lot of other symptoms that would indicate broken mounts, but have never heard of any that would be described as "knocking" that could be heard and felt when you apply the brakes. Will be interesting to see if the mounts cure the problem.

Did your friend give you a deal on that? That is extremely reasonable.