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Dave, I've done a # of them and would be happy to help if I had a better understanding of what "tab" you are talking about because you don't connect to a "tab". You connect to the part of the shaft on the end of the thin cable that goes from your little lock "rocker" at the inside door handle to the latch assembly in the door.

I chuckle every time I think of that. Not much wonder you don't find that fix listed at your local friendly Lexus dealer. Can you imagine the Philadelphia lawyer it would take to figure out the technical enough description to bill that at what they would want to charge. Pretty hard to put in "Hit ign. lock with hammer and screw driver to repair.... $350."

Gary- have you done a search on this and the other popular Lexus forum? I'm sure I remember a thread about the key not turning under similar circumstances. They figured out the answer to the problem, and though the fix seemed unconventional it indeed did work. Seems to me the dealer quoted a huge sum of money to replace the ignition switch and a whole bunch of other stuff, as the only fix. The ACTUAL fix was quite simple and COST NOTHING!

Sorry Gary, but we need a little bit more info. Is the 300 key stuck in the ignition? Don't have a manual (the 300 is my DIL's) so I don't know what the "flat" key is.

Chris- Always glad to hear success stories. I'm also glad to hear that you were not intimidated by age. I'm not going to state mine but age is a state of mind and there are "young" and "old" at all ages. My wife went back to her aunt's 100th B'day party a few months ago. She had just renewed her DL a couple of weeks before, she looks 60 and has the handwriting of a 25 yr old!!! You're only as old as you think you are! Glad you're not intimidated by computers, or IACV's Isn't life great?

TMR- I didn't realize people in Canada were that rich. Sorry, with a gun to my head I wouldn't pay those kind of prices. That is a better investment for the people that are selling those cars than they could have ever done on the stock market or Gold. My sympathies to you in Canada.

TMR- What does $13k in Canadian convert to in USD? That seems like a ton to much money to me for an '00 RX, even though it won't be that much in USD. I have to say, every time I drive my DIL's to work on it, I am not impressed for a car (truck?) that ran right at $40k (maybe more) new. They bought it at a Toyota wholesale auction as a lease return 2& 1/2 yrs old with 32k mi for $26k. It is not the worlds most quiet or smooth car for that kind of money. My wife's Toyota Camry ('02) at 7 &1/2 yrs old is still a dream to drive and you can virtually whisper in it at 80MPH and be heard. (we drove 900+ mi. home in one day from northern Oregon to So. Cal. because it didn't beat you up in the process). I'm not sure the RX (being technically a truck) was ever like that. I'm sure that I could find something that would please me (even in an SUV) more than that for that much money, but that's only one mans opinion. Good luck!

I imagine the air intake cleaner would be O.K. or electronics cleaner. I did a little more research and I found what I thought was available. It is called "Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner". It is by CRC which you should be able to find anywhere, it is probably the most popular cleaner in many cleaners of different specialty kinds. Virtually any auto parts store should carry it. It's about $4. a can. You just want to spray into where the delicate sensor parts are, but not too hard, let the cleaner do the job. Those parts are very delicate. Good luck.

Paul gave you good advice also. The only reason I suggested using the NN vice grips is because I KNEW you would be able to get them out that way (from experience, not on this project, but other soft Japanese screws) I would guess that over half of all the guys that try and take it off strip the Phillips out AND THEN come here for help. I was trying to eliminate frustration, I've spent my life solving problems. There are other ways to deal with the frustration of the soft Japanese screws, but I believe the ones you have to be best there is to offer. Good Luck!

Do you mean spark plugs? I'm a car noob. If I need to replace the plugs (very unlikely), and clean the MAF sensor, any idea how much will it take? I don't want to go to the dealer any more. Thank you! Yes, Mr. M- That would be spark plugs. They put some of the finest plugs known to man in these cars. Even my wife's '02 Camry 4cyl came with them. Cost them a few $'s apiece for Toyota rather than a few cents apiece like our American manufacturers. They list for around $19. each and can be purchased online for about $8. ea. Don't confuse them with the Platinum Denso's that Autozone sells for about $8. ea. You might consider taking the plugs out and checking them, fine wire brushing them and maybe a little bit of carb cleaner, but only because that's an all aluminum engine and when I changed My DIL's at 97k (not knowing), one of the rear plugs came a little hard because it had 97k mi of crud on the threads (yes, it's possible for carbon to get up on the threads over a long period of time), and I was afraid I might gall the threads and really be in trouble. Didn't happen, and I put a very small amount of anti-seize on the threads when the new plugs went in. As far as the MAF sensor, there are GOOD instructions on cleaning it on this forum and ANOTHER popular Lexus forum. It's not hard to do, you just need to know what to use and how to be careful in the cleaning so that you don't damage the delicate sensor parts as you are cleaning. I would rather you read those instructions rather than me repeating them so that there is no misundertanding. You should have no trouble doing it. Make sure to get and use the right cleaner. It's still the 1st. thing I would do.

Have you checked your owners manual for any reference to reseting the close to default. I know there have been a # of posts over a period of time on windows doing things they're not supposed to. There is a procedure I believe to "reset" them so that they work properly. Is there any possibility that the button on the remote is sticking a little bit and responding when it shouldn't? Probably not, but stranger things have happened. 1st. place I would look is the OM, if you haven't already. Is there any possibility the button on the lift gate itself is problematic?

The dealer was open Christmas day? Shame on them, everyone should have Christmas day off. At 90k mi. I doubt that the plugs need changing, they are not like regular plugs, they are Iridium and are probably not worn at all at 90k. You might research "cleaning the MAF sensor". It needs to be done if it hasn't ever been done, but needs to be done with a full understanding of how it is done- it's very fragile! Chevron Techron is one of the best cleaners you can buy and it can't hurt to use it, but it may or may not help the mileage. MAF cleaning comes 1st. and anything else after that. Let us know if it makes any difference. Winter driving is hard on mileage.

Hi Mr P- For the most part I believe the impact that you strike would be the definite preference. A cordless would be maybe the next preference, but not a high power cordless (maybe one with the battery part way run down). The Japanese screws are VERY soft (always have been) and tend to grab the adjacent metal and make it SEEM that they are over tightened when they are not. I have had the IACV off my DIL's RX twice with success in not stripping the screws, but I have had many years of experience at this. Make SURE that the phillips screw is not a #3 (could well be), instead of a #2 (which is what most guys will use). My 1st suggestion would be to use a small needle nose Vice-Grip (good one, not cheap), clamp good and tight, and with a quick snap loosen it. I can almost guarantee they will come loose that way. You might want to consider getting hex headed bolts to replace the phillips screws. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the thanks Rtfl- glad you're back in business. I can't figure why the wave washer is there either, but I do remember at least one who said it worked fine without it. I think the lack of a gasket was probably the problem.

Fspirit- I sure hope you have better luck with those tires than I did. I went to buy a different Yokohama tire (I have the Geolanders on my F-150) and they sold me on the YK520's. This was for my wife's '02 Camry. The original Bridgestones were like glass for 22k mi and I would have bought another set but they only have a TWR of 160! I had them balanced 3 times in the 20k mi. that me and my wife tolerated them. They had a cyclical vibration that they absolutely could not get out (and they really worked at it). I was so fed up with them (and I give new meaning to mild mannered) that at about 20k mi on them I said take these things off and throw them in the trash. They were very good about it and put a set of Michelins on that are as smooth as silk at any speed and only charged me the price difference and the tread that was used (they showed almost no wear). I truly hope you have better luck than I did. That's not a cheap tire, but it sure acted like one!

rtfl- There are definitely supposed to gaskets on both the air intake tubes. I assume you mean where the intake tubes bolt to the throttle body. That may be the cause of it not idling. How long has the non-idle situation gone on? You can check the electric coil with and ohm meter. The manual says the resistance should be from 17.0-28.5 depending on whether it's cold or hot but I believe I have read that is a mistake in the Lexus shop manual. When I cleaned it on my DIL's RX it worked perfectly afterward while one side read 2.0 ohms and the other side read 59.0 ohms. I replaced it anyway because my DIL was going to be a long ways from home in a vulnerable position. With it off the car but the plug connected, watch the cylindrical opening while you have someone turn the key to "on" (NOT START). the cylinder should move to fully closed, then fully open and back to rest at half open, all in 0.5 seconds. (1/2 sec.) If you replace the gasket that is missing and check and see that the valve DOES operate as it is supposed to (off the car), I'll send you one of the wave washers. Some have said it works fine without it. I don't know exactly why it is there. If it doesn't function properly with that test, you'll need to replace it anyway, and the new one will have a washer in it. Let me know how you come out.

Good for you Mr. F- I'm glad to hear of friends helping friends. You never know when you help someone you don't even know when you'll make a new friend for life. Wish more of the world was like that- wouldn't it be a great place to live? You mentioned one thing that shows common sense (really no such thing), sense at least, and that is to use vise grips on the screws. My preference is the needle nose vice grips, but any will work actually. I have both sizes of the impact drivers that also work well. Many people think the screws are tightened really tight. That's not really true. The Japanese have always used really soft screws and bolts that tend to "grab" the adjacent metal when a really hard bolt or screw wouldn't. Thanks for reminding people about the "vice grip cure" for "clingy" soft bolts and screws.

RX300- What kind of records do you have on transmission servicing? What does the fluid look like? Is it an AWD or FWD? Makes a difference. My DIL's '99 RX has over 130k mi. on it with NO transmission problems so far, and it is an AWD, the one that gives the most problem. I changed the fluid at 97k mi and it was really muddy, but I changed ALL the fluid so there are definitely plenty of them that don't give problems. You have to realize that a LOT OF OTHER BRANDS don't go near 130k mi without having to be overhauled. Do you have a REALLY GOOD honest INDEPENDENT trans shop in you area? They do exist! Treat it as though it were a Toyota Camry (which the trans essentially is) and figure that if it does go out it will cost you about $1700.- $2000. to have it overhauled and it may not go out for another 50-75,000 mi. None of us know when our trans will go out no matter what we drive, so sleep well and remember, most of the things we worry about are wasted time, because they never happen! :) Good Luck!

Dan- I can almost guarantee that the vibration is motor mounts or exhaust. The exhaust is often responsible for resonance and vibration noise when a vehicle gets some miles on it. Things loosen up in the Cat. conv. and other exhaust components when spot welds break and other things begin to loosen up as a result of the heat E.S.'s have to deal with today as compared to before smog controls. It's normally not too hard to diagnose. A mechanics stethoscope from Harbor Freight for about $5.-7. is one of the best investments you can make. Motor mounts are also often responsible for that type of noise. A great deal of todays cars have hydraulic mounts (oil filled) and they will sometimes leak the oil out so it's easy to see and sometimes won't leak even though the mount is bad and responsible for the vibration.

X2- That's the ONLY way you can know what the problem is. If you are competent to do your own work, my recommendation to ANYONE who does, is to spend the money to get a half way decent scanner, probably less than $100. and for a really basic code reader, less than $50. As the car gets older, you're going to need it more and more if you keep it. Gives you a fighting chance of not having your bank account emptied in one swift motion. Knowledge is power and only the ignorant don't want at least the power to keep from being ripped off.

Hi Tom- I even use it to check the temp of the oven or food when it's cooking to see if it's hot enough. A slight (or maybe not slight) miss?, a shot at the exhaust manifold where it comes out of the head will tell you in a hurry. I'll bet mechanics wish they had had them a long time before they did. Cooling system?, check any part of it you want to and find out in a hurry how it is doing. Same for trans. cooler and lines. I find it to be very accurate. There is little limit if any other than your imagination as to the things it will do for you. Check your circulation on the bottom of your feet?, or your temp?, I have used it for a lot of things that are not related to automotive, as well as many that are. It does the job well. Have a great New Year Tom. Roger

Spot on Tom, eliminates the question: who likes hanging on the front of the car at 55 MPH. I'm a firm believer in infrared temp guns for more uses than you can even count. I wouldn't want to be without one. Few tools are as useful in diagnosing ANYTHING that generates heat. (and in a lot of cases things that don't generate heat) :D

The advice Karl K gave you was spot on. The advice your mechanic gave you was also spot on. I have had experience with this and had to get a quick education on this because the car was 1200 miles away and an extreme medical emergency was what put it 1200 miles away. I got the education from very talented Lexus independent mechanics and then followed up with a great deal of technical reading afterwards. The code: P1135, refers to THAT SPECIFIC THING, heating element, B1S1. The heating element only works part of the time (probably not a very large % of the time) and the engine will run fine with NO detriment to the engine while it is not working. They put it there for a reason, so the sensor needs to be replaced, but the loss of the heating element does not create an emergency, so replace it when you are able (there are good explanations as to how to do it without a lot of frustration, on this or other Lexus forums by using the search feature), but sleep well until you are able to do it. You have received good advice, now all you have to do is follow it.

Veed- I would use a volt meter (DVM) or test light to test the fuses under the hood to make sure that is not the problem. I will be gone for 2 weeks but will see when I get back if you have solved the problem or not.