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Everything posted by code58

  1. First thing I'd do is charge the battery fully and have it load tested. (some parts stores will do it for free.) if that checks out good and the cables are good and clean (don't just look at 'em!) Then you need to have the alternator checked. There has been comment from time to time about noticeing flickering in the lights on T/L products and we did indeed have it happen on an '02 Camry that we bought new. There was nothing wrong with it and you had to look hard to see it but it was definitely there. When you say it would not start when you tried, do you mean it wouldn't turn over or would t
  2. I would definitely not follow that advice. It will likely only lighten yoiur wallet and not solve the problem. Since this thread is 3 mo. old and was solved with the correct answer at NO cost 3 months ago, it was your lucky day that this advice didn't show up then and you followed it, to no avail. Hooray for Michelle. Hope the OP was as smart as Michelle.
  3. That's utter nonsense. The cooler lines screw on to the cooler, they're not crimped on or welded or anything like that. I've had them off and they are pretty much like any other make of vehicle. I don't know if I would trust that shop to do ANY kind of work on my vehicle. Maybe things are different in Canada, or they NEED the money! LOL
  4. I agree with Filehorse. If you are pushing exhaust out of the flange on the manifold there is definitely restriction somewhere and (barring the potato), the cat would be the logical conclusion. Have you ever heard of a smoke test? They use it to test for restriction in the exhaust system. It introduces smoke into the intake (over simplification) and that smoke should exit the tail pipe. If there are ANY leaks of any kind, or restrictions, the smoke will come out of those places and reveal them easily. If there is not adaquate smoke coming from the tail pipe it would also be an indication of
  5. that is an excellent price for all of that stuff. Make sure plugs are iridium, do not substitute....either Denso, or NGK Thanks, I will make sure they use good iridium plugs, i just watched a video on hanging timing belt ans h2o pump, its a big job, I think I will let the mechanic do it, thanks again,...kimo As Thomas stated, use IRIDIUM plugs, not just any iridium, but NGK or Denso iridium. They are origimnal equipment for T/L and the best that there is, that's the reason they use 'em! Don't let the mechanic tell you all Iridiums are alike, ONLY NGK or Denso! As thomas said, tha
  6. I would say you need to get the auto service (or their insurance company involved). If those things all worked before the reverse jump, it's their problem, not yours. That is a HUGH NO, NO! Can do a LOT of damage in spite of the fact that fuses blew, as it seems to have. Yes, I believe it's related!
  7. Always good to hear success responses.
  8. Go to this site and you can click on those 3 #'s (one by one) and it will give you tips on what to do. Very useful site. I must ask, did they cancel the codes out after you had them read? That is the 1st thing I always do when reading codes. Especially when there are more than 1 code. Then see what comes up 1st., IF the CEL comes on again. OFTEN, when you gety a CEL, the codes you get may or may not be valid. What comes up after the light has been cancelled is much more valid. IF you chase the 1st. DTC's that come up many times you will be
  9. Jaswood, help me out on this. I don't own a Lexus (only Toyota), the RX is my DIL's. I'm only the mechanic for it. I am not familiar with the defrost problem with the Lexus. For as long as I can remember most all vehicles have the A/C tied in with the defrost. #1, to keep the compressor seals working to keep them from drying out and #2, to enable the dehumidifying affect of the A/C operation to help the defrost picture. For most cars that works well, as it has for decades. What is it about a Lexus that the A/C is COUNTERPRODUCTIVE? Though hot air obviously defrosts the windshield much quicker
  10. Does the air seem to be coming out of the defrost vents when it's on defrost? If not, it's probably a problem with an actuator in the Heat/A/C/defrost system. If air is coming from the defrost vents, it may be a leaking heater core allowing the coolant to deposit on the WS. My bet would be actuator failure not allowing the defrost door to open. Even cold air will defrost a winshield, just not as fast as hot.
  11. Yep, they definitely had a problem with whoever designed or built those radiators. That shouldn't be. Aluminum/ plastic radiators are traditionally very dependable. Our DIL's '99 RX (built May,'98) has over 155K mi. on it and not a trace of problem with the radiator.
  12. SRX, I never have exactly figured it out, but the T/L products with aluminum engines (block AND head) seem to lose a VERY slight amount of cooant. That would be the determining factor most of the time, does it use coolant, even a small amount? My DIL's '99 RX has always used a SMALL amount from the day they got it. And by a small amount I mean about a 1/2 to 1/3 pint a year, maybe less. My wifes '02 Camry (1st year they used an all aluminum engine in the 4 cyl.) used about 1/4 pint (per year) from the beginning. Our grandson has had the car for over a year now and it continues the sa
  13. Guy must have checked you bank account to see how much money you had in there. What I want to know is how did he see your water pump to see that it was leaking? It is completely covered! How did he see it when doing the brakes??? X-ray eyes maybe??? To top it off, I have changed those pumps and they are the finest engineered and built WP I have ever seen in my life. When I changed the WP on my DIL's RX at 120+K mi. while trying to determine what was causing a minor "squeal" at start up. The water pump was definitely the original and looked absolutely new! I even cut it apart with a die gri
  14. Do a search for Bank1, Sensor1. There is PLENTY on the replacement of the sensors, if not on this forum, try Club Lexus. It is the more difficult one to replace. It is back by the firewall and has to be changed from the bottom (either the vehicle jacked up and jack stands used or changed on a lift or from a pit) It cannot be changed from the top. I would highly advise reading the VERY good write-ups on changing, along with good pictures. It shouldn't be bad that way, but may be very frustrating if you try it without the aid of those helps. The B1S1 (rear sensor is the one that most often goes
  15. Jaswood- the 1st A/F ratio sensors that I am aware of in anything Toyota made was in '97 and by '99 the were in a lot more of T/L models. There are still vehicles today that DO NOT use A/F ratio sensors. They are normally about 3 to 4 times as expensive as Oxygen sensors. And they ARE NOT the same thing, not by a long shot. Your '95 predates even the use of A/F sensors in ANYTHING that I'm aware of. Some sort of confusion factor going on here. I have to go look at my '92 LS400 factory shop/repair manuals to be sure but off the top of my head it seems to me that it also used 4 oxygen sen
  16. Jaswood- the 1st A/F ratio sensors that I am aware of in anything Toyota made was in '97 and by '99 the were in a lot more of T/L models. There are still vehicles today that DO NOT use A/F ratio sensors. They are normally about 3 to 4 times as expensive as Oxygen sensors. And they ARE NOT the same thing, not by a long shot. Your '95 predates even the use of A/F sensors in ANYTHING that I'm aware of.
  17. Pray tell Jaswood, where did you come up with that information??? I have been down that road and I stand by what I said, the A/F ratio sensors (two) and the Oxygen sensor (there is only one) are NOT the same thing. Why don't you buy a couple of Oxygen sensors (they're a whole lot cheaoer than A/F ratio sensors) and put them in place of the A/F ratio sensors (they will fit!) and see how that works out for ya. While you're at it (hav'in fun that is, put one of the A/F ratio sensors in place of the Oxygen sensor behind the Cat Conv.) Let us know how this experiment works out for ya. Ought to be
  18. ost. No, the A/F ratio sensor and the O2 sensor are actually 2 very different parts, and your car has both. The A/F ratio sensors are on each bank of the engine (2). The O2 sensor is behind the catalytic convertor under the drivers seat area (below the floor pan). The PROBLEM is, the parts industry (and maybe even the dealer or manufacturer) have very much confused the picture by calling (and even listing in the parts book) an A/F ratio sensor an oxygen sensor (O2) which it IS NOT! They are 2 very much different parts (that just happen to look a lot alike) and are very definitely NOT int
  19. Without seeing the vehicle I'd say you got a great deal. I'd say continue to service it like she did and enjoy it! There are NO guarantees on any car with 162K mi. on 'em! A car can have a good service record and break and have poor service record and go on forever. My DIL's '99 RX has 150+K mi. on it with no special care of the trans. and has given no problem at all so far. Others have blown up at 60K mi. with good care. If you can't sleep at night for worrying about it, sell it and buy something else. Otherwise, enjoy it! (DO service the trans. every 15-25K mi. though)
  20. Sorry, but this doesn't make sense! <_< I agree with CODE58. I have been working with Lexus for 14 years and Toyota for 6 years before that. I don't see how an oil pump affects oil consumption. But, then again, the service consultant doesn't usually know a whole lot about cars anyway. I'm sure the primary concern was the valve seals, not completely unusual, which seems to have been taken care of at the same time. I'm sorry to hear you had a scare with your Lexus, but I'm glad to hear your local dealership stood behind their product(something you wouldn't get anywhere else). The RX
  21. Sorry, but this doesn't make sense! <_<
  22. Try a reset on them. Run them ALL down with the individual inside controllers. All 4 doors. Then run the drivers up with the drivers control and HOLD it for 4 or 5 seconds. If that works, try the others and see if they now work. If not, you may have to do each of them individually. HOLDING it when it reaches the top does a reset on the brain.
  23. SO- just wanted to make sure you understood that the ROD is connected to the stub shaft on the end of the EXISTING lock cable. Nothing added! It really IS pretty simple. If your rod (supplied with the replacement universal actuator) has the 90 degree end on it to go through rubber eye on the actuator, you can flatten the other end and drill the way I did in the pictures. I suggested the eyelet because if you're not used to doing custom stuff as I am, the eyelet is a simpler solution. I did one that way and (eyelet) and I crimped it to the end of the rod with electrical crimping pliers 1st and
  24. SO, with all due respect, those links are making it to complicated. I have done a number of them and actually did the 1st 4 on my DIL's RX before anyone else was doing them, or at least writing about it. I did those in a very "factory like fashion". I have since changed my approach, because, though it looked very factory, was too much work. I will post a link from this thread where I did one for a fellow who lives close to me. Look at post# 93 &96 where I explained what I did and then the owner posted the pictures
  25. SO, I would be happy to answer your question IF I knew exactly WHAT you were asking, but I don't. Are you intending to use the $5. universal aftermarket actuators? or OEM actuator? I ASSUME the aftermarket actuator, but I don't understand exactly what you mean by "cutting the cable". I have done a number of them so if you could explain in a little more detail, I'd be glad to answer. I have done electrical for many, many years as well as custom work, so have a pretty good idea of what's going on. You DO NOT want to cut OR remove ANY of the OEM system or even tamper with it if you are doing
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