code58

First thing I'd do is charge the battery fully and have it load tested. (some parts stores will do it for free.) if that checks out good and the cables are good and clean (don't just look at 'em!) Then you need to have the alternator checked. There has been comment from time to time about noticeing flickering in the lights on T/L products and we did indeed have it happen on an '02 Camry that we bought new. There was nothing wrong with it and you had to look hard to see it but it was definitely there. When you say it would not start when you tried, do you mean it wouldn't turn over or would turn over fine but simply wouldn't start? Makes a big difference between the 2 as to what the diagnosis would be.

I would definitely not follow that advice. It will likely only lighten yoiur wallet and not solve the problem. Since this thread is 3 mo. old and was solved with the correct answer at NO cost 3 months ago, it was your lucky day that this advice didn't show up then and you followed it, to no avail. Hooray for Michelle. Hope the OP was as smart as Michelle.

That's utter nonsense. The cooler lines screw on to the cooler, they're not crimped on or welded or anything like that. I've had them off and they are pretty much like any other make of vehicle. I don't know if I would trust that shop to do ANY kind of work on my vehicle. Maybe things are different in Canada, or they NEED the money! LOL

I agree with Filehorse. If you are pushing exhaust out of the flange on the manifold there is definitely restriction somewhere and (barring the potato), the cat would be the logical conclusion. Have you ever heard of a smoke test? They use it to test for restriction in the exhaust system. It introduces smoke into the intake (over simplification) and that smoke should exit the tail pipe. If there are ANY leaks of any kind, or restrictions, the smoke will come out of those places and reveal them easily. If there is not adaquate smoke coming from the tail pipe it would also be an indication of restriction, probably the cat, but COULD also be baffles in the muffler that have come loose and blocked the flow of exhaust. It takes a "smoke machine" to do this test. I think you've thrown too many parts at it already that it probably didn't need. It probably wouldn't have to be a Lexus dealer that did the smoke test. I would want to watch the teast, no matter who did it. P.S. You want to watch what you put in the gas or intake. There are a lot of things that can potentially "poison" a cat. I am NOT a believer in Seafoam. I personally believe it's snake oil and wouldn't use it in anything I own, regardless of what the salesmen in the auto parts stores say.

that is an excellent price for all of that stuff. Make sure plugs are iridium, do not substitute....either Denso, or NGK Thanks, I will make sure they use good iridium plugs, i just watched a video on hanging timing belt ans h2o pump, its a big job, I think I will let the mechanic do it, thanks again,...kimo As Thomas stated, use IRIDIUM plugs, not just any iridium, but NGK or Denso iridium. They are origimnal equipment for T/L and the best that there is, that's the reason they use 'em! Don't let the mechanic tell you all Iridiums are alike, ONLY NGK or Denso! As thomas said, that IS an excellent price! But use ONLY OEM parts!!! Those of us who have done the work know why! Aftermarket are NOT equal quality.

I would say you need to get the auto service (or their insurance company involved). If those things all worked before the reverse jump, it's their problem, not yours. That is a HUGH NO, NO! Can do a LOT of damage in spite of the fact that fuses blew, as it seems to have. Yes, I believe it's related!

Always good to hear success responses.

Go to this site and you can click on those 3 #'s (one by one) and it will give you tips on what to do. Very useful site. http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ I must ask, did they cancel the codes out after you had them read? That is the 1st thing I always do when reading codes. Especially when there are more than 1 code. Then see what comes up 1st., IF the CEL comes on again. OFTEN, when you gety a CEL, the codes you get may or may not be valid. What comes up after the light has been cancelled is much more valid. IF you chase the 1st. DTC's that come up many times you will be chasing your tail needlessly.

Jaswood, help me out on this. I don't own a Lexus (only Toyota), the RX is my DIL's. I'm only the mechanic for it. I am not familiar with the defrost problem with the Lexus. For as long as I can remember most all vehicles have the A/C tied in with the defrost. #1, to keep the compressor seals working to keep them from drying out and #2, to enable the dehumidifying affect of the A/C operation to help the defrost picture. For most cars that works well, as it has for decades. What is it about a Lexus that the A/C is COUNTERPRODUCTIVE? Though hot air obviously defrosts the windshield much quicker than cold (not talking about melting ice), COLD air will also defrost a windshield. What about a quick frost up when you 1st start out, all you have is cold air till the heat comes up? I am old enough to remember when cars had a little electric fan mounted at 1 corner of the windshield. It was your A/C in the summer (LOL) and also your DEFROST in the winter.

Does the air seem to be coming out of the defrost vents when it's on defrost? If not, it's probably a problem with an actuator in the Heat/A/C/defrost system. If air is coming from the defrost vents, it may be a leaking heater core allowing the coolant to deposit on the WS. My bet would be actuator failure not allowing the defrost door to open. Even cold air will defrost a winshield, just not as fast as hot.

Yep, they definitely had a problem with whoever designed or built those radiators. That shouldn't be. Aluminum/ plastic radiators are traditionally very dependable. Our DIL's '99 RX (built May,'98) has over 155K mi. on it and not a trace of problem with the radiator.

SRX, I never have exactly figured it out, but the T/L products with aluminum engines (block AND head) seem to lose a VERY slight amount of cooant. That would be the determining factor most of the time, does it use coolant, even a small amount? My DIL's '99 RX has always used a SMALL amount from the day they got it. And by a small amount I mean about a 1/2 to 1/3 pint a year, maybe less. My wifes '02 Camry (1st year they used an all aluminum engine in the 4 cyl.) used about 1/4 pint (per year) from the beginning. Our grandson has had the car for over a year now and it continues the same. That is a VERY SMALL amount of loss, but it is not ZERO. I am absolutely certain there was NEVER a leak in either of the vehicles. I have proper leak pressure testing equipment. I will say that while I said the WP in the '99 looked new (it indeed did) that there was a slight pink trail from the weep hole, but was bone dry AND NEVER MADE IT PAST THE END OF THE HOLE! Meaning obviously that did not explain even the small amount that it leaked in a year, only a small part of that small amount. With the seal system they use I can't even imagine how those few drops got that far. One thing I did notice on the RX was that when I was under it to change the rear A/F ratio sensor, there was DRY indication of coolant making it past the head gasket on the firewall side of the engine. I have often wondered if there is at times MICROSCOPIC seapage because of the higher rate of expansion and contraction on aluminum, and especially because these are ALL aluminum engines. T/L designs outstanding gaskets, like all the rest of the parts, so I don't think that's the problem, per se. I believe that mechanic was LOOKING for some work, and it wasn't because you NEEDED a WP! Our '11 Camry is about 14 mo. old and I don't see hardly any sign of loss of coolant.

Guy must have checked you bank account to see how much money you had in there. What I want to know is how did he see your water pump to see that it was leaking? It is completely covered! How did he see it when doing the brakes??? X-ray eyes maybe??? To top it off, I have changed those pumps and they are the finest engineered and built WP I have ever seen in my life. When I changed the WP on my DIL's RX at 120+K mi. while trying to determine what was causing a minor "squeal" at start up. The water pump was definitely the original and looked absolutely new! I even cut it apart with a die grinder and thin cut-off blade and the bearings, seals and all were absolutely new! It has the most secure and elaborate seal system I've ever seen in a WP. I can't even imagine how one of those could ever leak. I THINK (been a while since I did it) that it had 3 different type of seals in there. You can purchase the OEM AISIN WP online for about $80., possibly less. That's what you call more than a little pricey at over $850. I WOULD NOT USE ANYTHING BUT OEM AISIN WP though!

Do a search for Bank1, Sensor1. There is PLENTY on the replacement of the sensors, if not on this forum, try Club Lexus. It is the more difficult one to replace. It is back by the firewall and has to be changed from the bottom (either the vehicle jacked up and jack stands used or changed on a lift or from a pit) It cannot be changed from the top. I would highly advise reading the VERY good write-ups on changing, along with good pictures. It shouldn't be bad that way, but may be very frustrating if you try it without the aid of those helps. The B1S1 (rear sensor is the one that most often goes out 1st.)

Jaswood- the 1st A/F ratio sensors that I am aware of in anything Toyota made was in '97 and by '99 the were in a lot more of T/L models. There are still vehicles today that DO NOT use A/F ratio sensors. They are normally about 3 to 4 times as expensive as Oxygen sensors. And they ARE NOT the same thing, not by a long shot. Your '95 predates even the use of A/F sensors in ANYTHING that I'm aware of. Some sort of confusion factor going on here. I have to go look at my '92 LS400 factory shop/repair manuals to be sure but off the top of my head it seems to me that it also used 4 oxygen sensors. The front 2 sensors, upstream of the catalyst, are used for controlling the A/F mixture, stoichiometric mixture, for idle and cruise, low engine loading, and the 2nd set downstream of the catalyst to monitor catalyst efficiency. I suspect what has happened in the interim is that the front oxygen sensors are now more commonly referred to as A/F sensors. The only change to those front oxygen sensors that I am aware of was the addition of self-heating to shorten the sensor detection response time when a cold engine is first started. Jaswood- Did you bother to read the entire Denso description??? They clearly explain the difference between the two, O2 sensor as compared to A/f ratio sensor. There is a reason that an A/F ratio sensor is called that, to differentiate between it and an O2 sensor. They are clearly different parts. One WILL NOT work in the place of the other. There is a reason why one costs 4 times what the other does, and it's not called "increased profit"! That's the reason I told you to try switching places on a vehicle that uses both. This is probably not true on your '95, but it is definitely true after they started usinf A/F ratio sensors. They are called "wide band sensors" whereas the O2 sensors are called "narrow band sensors". If you do have ANY intertest in actually learning, there is plenty on the internet that will explain EXACTLY how they work, and the difference between the two. It's obvious you aren't interested in learning, so I officially leave you to your delusions. Goodbye.

Jaswood- the 1st A/F ratio sensors that I am aware of in anything Toyota made was in '97 and by '99 the were in a lot more of T/L models. There are still vehicles today that DO NOT use A/F ratio sensors. They are normally about 3 to 4 times as expensive as Oxygen sensors. And they ARE NOT the same thing, not by a long shot. Your '95 predates even the use of A/F sensors in ANYTHING that I'm aware of.

Pray tell Jaswood, where did you come up with that information??? I have been down that road and I stand by what I said, the A/F ratio sensors (two) and the Oxygen sensor (there is only one) are NOT the same thing. Why don't you buy a couple of Oxygen sensors (they're a whole lot cheaoer than A/F ratio sensors) and put them in place of the A/F ratio sensors (they will fit!) and see how that works out for ya. While you're at it (hav'in fun that is, put one of the A/F ratio sensors in place of the Oxygen sensor behind the Cat Conv.) Let us know how this experiment works out for ya. Ought to be interesting!

ost. No, the A/F ratio sensor and the O2 sensor are actually 2 very different parts, and your car has both. The A/F ratio sensors are on each bank of the engine (2). The O2 sensor is behind the catalytic convertor under the drivers seat area (below the floor pan). The PROBLEM is, the parts industry (and maybe even the dealer or manufacturer) have very much confused the picture by calling (and even listing in the parts book) an A/F ratio sensor an oxygen sensor (O2) which it IS NOT! They are 2 very much different parts (that just happen to look a lot alike) and are very definitely NOT interchangeable!

Without seeing the vehicle I'd say you got a great deal. I'd say continue to service it like she did and enjoy it! There are NO guarantees on any car with 162K mi. on 'em! A car can have a good service record and break and have poor service record and go on forever. My DIL's '99 RX has 150+K mi. on it with no special care of the trans. and has given no problem at all so far. Others have blown up at 60K mi. with good care. If you can't sleep at night for worrying about it, sell it and buy something else. Otherwise, enjoy it! (DO service the trans. every 15-25K mi. though)

Sorry, but this doesn't make sense! <_< I agree with CODE58. I have been working with Lexus for 14 years and Toyota for 6 years before that. I don't see how an oil pump affects oil consumption. But, then again, the service consultant doesn't usually know a whole lot about cars anyway. I'm sure the primary concern was the valve seals, not completely unusual, which seems to have been taken care of at the same time. I'm sorry to hear you had a scare with your Lexus, but I'm glad to hear your local dealership stood behind their product(something you wouldn't get anywhere else). The RX300 is one of the best cars we have ever produced and we try to promote an entire ownership experience. Good luck and enjoy your car! What if the oil pump pressure bypass fails...: OPEN: Not enough lubricant flow nor cooling. CLOSED: Pressure ALWAYS HIGH. I vote for open since closed will almost always "balloon" the filter. For one thing, the pump PUSHES, it doesn't "pull". I realize that it has to pull it out of the pan, but it's only doing that because the system is "primed". Second, where is the "oil pump pressure bypass"? There is a bypass in the filter, in case the filter gets clogged it won't stop the flow of oil and destroy the engine. But if the bypass is in bypass mode, I still wouldn't think it would flood the top of the engine such that it would cause such excessive oil consumption. Maybe it would. That Service Writers knowledge of (or ability to convey that knowledge in an understandable manner) is very typical of the service writers I had contact with in over 30 years in the automotive field (dealers). They are SALESMAN, which means the same thing it does in any field that uses salesman, mainly that they are good at spreading bull, and not very good at understanding what they're writing about. I seldom EVER got a service ticket that I didn't have to talk to the the writer for clarification and even then, you were never sure whether you were working on what the customer actually complained about or not.

Sorry, but this doesn't make sense! <_<

Try a reset on them. Run them ALL down with the individual inside controllers. All 4 doors. Then run the drivers up with the drivers control and HOLD it for 4 or 5 seconds. If that works, try the others and see if they now work. If not, you may have to do each of them individually. HOLDING it when it reaches the top does a reset on the brain.

SO- just wanted to make sure you understood that the ROD is connected to the stub shaft on the end of the EXISTING lock cable. Nothing added! It really IS pretty simple. If your rod (supplied with the replacement universal actuator) has the 90 degree end on it to go through rubber eye on the actuator, you can flatten the other end and drill the way I did in the pictures. I suggested the eyelet because if you're not used to doing custom stuff as I am, the eyelet is a simpler solution. I did one that way and (eyelet) and I crimped it to the end of the rod with electrical crimping pliers 1st and the soldered it also. I worked well and was very easy. It REALLY is pretty easy, don't make it complicated. Need any more help, either post or PM me. I would do it for you but with you in Ky. and me in Ca., it's a little to far for either of us to drive.

SO, with all due respect, those links are making it to complicated. I have done a number of them and actually did the 1st 4 on my DIL's RX before anyone else was doing them, or at least writing about it. I did those in a very "factory like fashion". I have since changed my approach, because, though it looked very factory, was too much work. I will post a link from this thread where I did one for a fellow who lives close to me. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41219&st=90 Look at post# 93 &96 where I explained what I did and then the owner posted the pictures of what I did. Just click on the thumbnails. That install is not bad at all and turns out quite neat. The difference in an install I would do now is to use an automotive electrical eyelet on the end that goes on the stub shaft on the end of the cable, then run the rod through the 2 holes drilled in the plastic handle housing and bend the "Z" (2-90 degree bends) in the end of the rod AFTER it has been passed through the 2 holes. That "Z" will slip into rubber hole in the end of the actuator. I also have obtained small round push on clips from Ace Hardware since then to keep the eyelet on the stub shaft. This procedure is actually about the simplest way to do it and I believe now that I have the extra needed pieces (that I didn't have then) I could probably do the installation in about 45 min., not counting removing and replacing the door panel. I will be gone (after tomorrow) for a few days, but would be glad to give any help I could. PLEASE DO NOT cut, alter, remove, disable or in ANY way mess with the existing factory actuator set-up! The pictures on post # 96 tell the story!

SO, I would be happy to answer your question IF I knew exactly WHAT you were asking, but I don't. Are you intending to use the $5. universal aftermarket actuators? or OEM actuator? I ASSUME the aftermarket actuator, but I don't understand exactly what you mean by "cutting the cable". I have done a number of them so if you could explain in a little more detail, I'd be glad to answer. I have done electrical for many, many years as well as custom work, so have a pretty good idea of what's going on. You DO NOT want to cut OR remove ANY of the OEM system or even tamper with it if you are doing the "piggy back"method! I don't know how many times you've heard the statement "I assumed", but I've heard it WAY too many times, that's why I TRY not to ASSUME anything, keeps me on the safe side of "I ASSUMED"!