code58

Did you replace them personally or just pay to have them replaced? I can't imagine it making any noise if it actually had new strut mounts installed. If you payed to have them replaced I would check to make sure they were actually replaced or that they replaced the right thing. wouldn't be the first time someone payed for something that they didn't actually get. If you replaced them yourself then something is wrong somewhere. I removed them on my daughter-in-laws 99RX and actually repaired them and got rid of the noise. And it sounded nasty before I repaired them. Won't go into the reasons for repair vs replace but it had to do with critical time constraints. The noise is nasty because it is metal against metal! Y/t- Roger

Hi Zapp- I tried to add to my post and muffed it and don't know how to delete it- I'm new at this. Anyway, the Lexus specific code P1135 is the rear sensor on the exhaust manifold ( next to the firewall ). Refered to as bank1, sensor1. It is common for it to go out first, I believe because it gets more heat back there. It's the more difficult one to change- and I would advise anyone that is changing those sensors to only go with genuine Denso. They can be bought online from one certain Lexus dealer for about $150., a very good deal. Hope that helps.

Code P1135 is (Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent) Call the dealer to find out exactly which sensor this is referring to. Hi maidequa- I believe the PO#'s are generic #'s. The Lexus specific#'s are: P1130-Air/Fuel ratio sensor circuit range/ performance malfunction, bank1, sensor1. The P1150-Air/Fuel ratio sensor circuit range/performance malfunction, bank2, sensor1. The P1135 Lexus specific code is Air/Fuel ratio sensor heater circuit malfunction bank1, sensor1. Hope that helps.

Code P1135 is (Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent) Call the dealer to find out exactly which sensor this is referring to. Hi maidequa- I believe the PO#'s are generic #'s. The Lexus specific#'s are: P1130-Air/Fuel ratio sensor circuit range/ performance malfunction, bank1, sensor1. The P1150-Air/Fuel ratio sensor circuit range/performance malfunction, bank2, sensor1. The P1135 Lexus specific code is Air/Fuel ratio sensor heater circuit malfunction bank1, sensor1. Hope that helps.

Hi from Roger- I have worked on my daughter-in-laws 99 Rx300 (at 97k to replace rear main seal) and it looked like that. I was a little agast because I am used to taking very good care of my vehicles. I can not say that you don't have sludge but hers didn't have sludge and I believe it is simply a lot of varnish from the HIGH temp. that the crankcase on those engines run. They do run high temp.. (the crankcase) Hers has 120k on it now and never missed a beat. I don't like to see that kind of varnish in the interior of an engine but my guess is most of those engines do. I don't think it will hurt anything. If in doubt pull the front valve cover, you'll know for sure if it has sludge. Hope this helps. Roger

Wanted to thank you. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and the problem was solved. Thanks!!!! 'Cathy's Rx300'- Did the reset take care of the door lock problem? My daughter-in-laws 99 Rx300 had problems with the door locks (both fronts and intermittent on one rear) and I could not handle the $1300.- price for 4 locks and tax so I found another way out. I used 4 locks from late Ford product (which I got for free) and fabricated linkage and mounted them in the doors down below the original locks and they work fine. They have been in for over a year and a half and haven't missed a beat. There is an existing arm and hole that I was able to use to "piggy-back" the linkage onto. You have to leave all the existing locks in place because of all the interaction with the sunroof and other systems that are linked with the locks thru the computer. Actually the cheap universal locks that you can find all over e-bay for $5-10 dollars also will work fine- it's just that I was able to get these for free and it saved me $1300. By the way I cracked 3 of them apart and the tinny little brushes in the tinny little Chinese (yes,original equipment!) motors were just worn out. I just super-glued them back together. Hope this helps.

Actually what the original poster stated is correct- the aftermarket windshield is called "original equipment equivalent" if it meets the original equipment standards. There are many that are made in third world countries that may not but most all of the major glass manufacturers would. I live in So. Cal. and just had a new "oee" Safelite windshield installed in my daughter-inlaws 99 RX300 (with lifetime warrantee) for about $210.-- including new rubber surround moulding, including tax. And that was mobile service- they came to the house and did it. I spent over 30 years in body work but am retired and shopped for that on the internet. Hope this helps.