code58

Somehow something just isn't right there ^^^^^^! This compressor isn't being delivered late at night by a guy named Vinnie who looks around to see if anybody is watching is it??? Could you share the source with us? Most of the time when something doesn't seem right, it's because it isn't. (got this new 2011 RX that I'll sell for $15,000. just because I'm in a bind and need the money. By the way, I need it in small bills to pay off all of my creditors, and Oh, another thing, they said the title would be here in about 3 mo., the DMV is kinda backed up).

Two pieces of advice. You may or may not want to take them but they are good advice and free. I know you can get the codes read for free, but at the cheap price that you can buy code readers (and even ones that give you some elementry information), no one but old ladies should be without one. That way you can read and cancel without leaving your driveway. I bought one at Costco when they were closing then out, for $19., and then returned it the next day because I have a $700. scanner and wondered why I bought it, no matter how good the deal. It was actually a small but nice scanner/code reader and could cancel TC's also. My 1st suggestion ALWAYS is cancel the code and see HOW quick it comes back (if it does) and IF it is the same code. DTC's are a ROAD SIGN saying "such and such' is about 20 mi. "that" way. They DO NOT have a human brain, nor are they clairvoyant. They are an AID, NOT a laser pointing to EXACTLY what the problem is, at least a lot of the time.

I am assuming the little (tiny) red LED light lights on both remotes when you press them, right??? Did this happen "all of a sudden"? I am also assuming the locks work fine from inside with the lock button on the drivers door, yes or no? I'm pretty sure from what I remember the remote, receiver is in the center of the car under the center console. I wouldn't go tearing into that though, that's PROBABLY not where the problem is and you likely wouldn't be able to SEE anything bad anyway. If we can have the answers to the questions asked, it would help us anyway.

You might do a search on this site and on Club Lexus. I have read before of the mechanism in the rear gate breaking, just don't remember exactly how they got in to fix it, but they did. Just search "inoperative rear hatch handle" or "broken rear hatch handle" or "can't get into rear hatch" or something along that line. Remember, if your 1st search words turn you up empty handed, try again. Search engines are pretty persnickity sometimes about how you word things, they're not forgiving like Google is. The inoperative outside handle is probably related to the complete failure somehow. Bet next time you'll fix the original problem before it starts having babies, Huh?

TMJ is correct. IF you were missing a belt (you only have 2 external belts) you wouldn't have any power steering or else you wouldn't have any charging (alt.). Don't really imagine you'd miss the A/C this time of year even if it was not working. (A/C and alt. are the same belt)

Steve- It calls for 69 in. lbs, but i wouldn't worry about torquing those, just snug 'em down good because the bolts are shouldered so they're self limiting. The intake manifold shows 11 ft. lbs.. The spark plugs show 13 ft. lbs., but I would prefer a little tighter than that. The heads ARE aluminum, so I wouldn't go too tight, just good and snug by feel. The coils show 69 in. lbs.. I have never replaced a knock sensor, so I don't know what they cost, but if they're (I believe they're 2) cheap enough, it might not be a bad idea, because the labor to do it later, if needed, is a fair amount of work.

They were definitely concerned about their bottom line, NOT YOUR WALLET! I have changed these belts and I can tell you, THEY ARE NOT made of the same material your 2 external belts are made off! They are made of a completely different cord and rubber (it's NOT rubber) and made in a completely different way. When I changed my DIL's on her RX, it looked like 15-20k mi and it had 97k mi. on it . There were absolutely no cracks, or other signs of deterioration and NO signs of wear on the teeth. I don't know of anyone yet who has changed their own who has reported anything different, no matter what the miles. It IS NOT built like the timing belts of the past that were recommended for 60k mi, and really needed changing by then. Also, the $1600. is absurd beyond degree. That is ROBBERY without even the aid of a gun or a mask. The original equipment (Toyota) belt can be purchased online for about $35. and the labor is about 4-5 hour and a good mechanic can change it in little more than half that time. Would I love to change those all day long for $1600.

When you say the lights flashes, what do you mean? The exterior lights or the little LED light on the remote? Have you checked the batteries in the remotes and CLEANED the contacts (with a pencil eraser)? If the little red LED light on the remote doesn't light when you push the remote button, It's not working. Get the remotes working 1st. and then deal with the lock actuators. Do a search on piggyback actuators. The cheapest and easiest way to go, unless your wallet is full and you need to drain some (a lot!).

The reason there is no record of it being changed is they don't normally need to be changed in the life of an RX. It's not like an inline filter that has to filter every drop of fuel the engine uses, while sitting in a static state. The filter strainer in the tank is constantly "washed" by the sloshing of the fuel and therefore, unless you got some really bad rusty or contaminated fuel from some old tanks, it is not likely to ever clog up. My DIL's RX has almost 150k mi on it and has never had it changed and not one trace of problem with 87 oct. from many different stations that are not at all necessarily "Top Tier". If TT is unfamiliar to you, do a Google on it. Whereas the '97 Suburban that they ordered new quit at about 85k mi. as result of a completely clogged "INLINE" filter. It had to be towed and even had to replace the in- tank fuel pump because of the added strain on it. They both were fueled at the same stations for the most part. Lexus was wise in not putting an inline filter on. Hope this helps!

Dave- Not sure exactly what you meant by (see above). That once on the road, it would be tough to deal with any needed mods then? If it's 2 wheel drive and you have the front wheels on the dolly, I can't imagine how there could be any problem. I have towed on a dolly that way with no problems whatsoever. AWD, a different story. I'm sure I don't have to tell you but make SURE the front wheels are securely tied down.

DGB- There are a couple places you can buy the masts for as little as $12. online, plus shipping. I have used them and they seem to be a really nice product, even though made in China. You can also buy the OEM antenna mast for as little as $25. online which is a WHOLE lot cheaper than the dealer. That's the good news, the bad news is you have to pull the antenna out and pull it apart to get the broken piece out before you can install the new mast. I have done several of them and they aren't bad if you have some mechanical ability and proper tools. Without those 2, it will probably be frustrating. I'm not necessarily suggesting this, but you can take the nut off the top of the antenna and you should be able to pull the mast out if it is in fact broken, put the nut back on tight to hold the antenna tight and seal it and then simply put some silicone (black or clear) in the open hole at the top where the mast was, to seal the water out of the motor and disconnect the motor plug, and your done, since you WON'T EVER use the radio.

1sttimeowner- Cars are SO complex these days that it is maddening sometimes (and I have worked on cars all my life), but it's not likely to get any better. It's not Lexus, it's ALL cars (the complexity).

lostpark- Please re-read the instructions. You DO NOT (MUST NOT) remove the actuator. It must be left in place so that ALL the other functions (and there are many) that it performs will still work. The aftermarket actuator piggy-back method (it's called piggy-back for a reason) simply installs an external power source to do the work that the actuator motor (because it's worn out) is no longer able to do. Just like someone coming along side you and holding you up when you're no longer able to stand on your own. If you re-read ALL the piggyback instruction and follow them with the pictures, you'll see that you DON"T TOUCH the old actuator. If you have more questions AFTER you've gone over the instructions and pictures, come on back.

DGB- Are you sure it's stuck or is the plastic gear strip broken (common occurance)? Turn the radio on and then have someone turn it off while you try to "help" the antenna down. If you hear a ratcheting sound, that means the gear strip is broken and you may still be able to get it most of the way down and then unplug the plug on the antenna motor. It's a lot simpler than removing the antenna and finding a plug or having the hole filled. I'd do it for you if you lived in the area.

It should be just a twist of about 30-35 degrees in one direction or the other. You're right, high beams don't burn out very often, unless you live in the toolies. City dwellers would hardly ever use high beams. I would 1st check to make sure it's not just a dirty contact. That can often be the case in something like that that doesn't get used often.

It sounds like you've lost vacuum to the power brake unit. Either the hose has a hole in it , has come off or you have a bad power brake booster. It could be a problem with the ABS (anti-lock brake system) but I think it's more likely the power brake booster.

Remember Monica, Toyota dealers are a lot more plentiful than Lexus, and any Toyota dealer can work on your Lexus. There is a great deal common between the 2. (sorry to those who felt you were special because you drove a Lexus, gotta come back down to earth ONCE in a while! ) All in good fun.

I don't think your rear springs are going to be as strong as the front because the front springs and struts have to carry the load of the engine and complete drive assy. the entire time, they never get a rest. The rear of the vehicle gets plenty of rest because most of the time cars have only 1 or 2 people in them. If the rear springs were as heavy as the front, it would make a lot harsher ride. Are the original rear struts gas, and the gas has leaked out of them? I realize most, if not all struts are gas probably, but they replace the shocks, which at one time (a thousand years ago, when I was a kid), were ALL non-gas. They only went where they were pushed, no gas to push them in either direction. Springs CAN wear out, But if it were me, I probably wouldn't worry about 'em. (unless you're a framer and carry your hogs to market in the back of your RX) JK

Don't know what the Coach leather is like but I spent my life in automotive work and the best place to get the work done is where THE DEALER gets their leather work done. A GOOD trim shop can duplicate factory leather work pretty well. Ask the dealer where they send their cars for leather replacement and deal DIRECT with the trim shop! Tell them the dealer sent you there. They're more likely to give you a decent price. If the Dealer had been able to get the original covers from Lexus, I'll bet you'd have had to mortgage the farm to pay for it!

You didn't say how many miles on the RX. That definitely sounds like a bearing going. Could be the W/P, or the upper idler pulley or the lower tensioner pulley. You CAN tell which one it is with a mechanics stethoscope (would need to remove the FULL plastic cover that covers the T/B and the other rotating parts in that area. (There will be 2 covers total for that area.) My GUESS is that it's the lower tensioner pulley because that's the only bearing'd part with a single row of bearings, both of the others have a double row of bearings and are less likely to throw ALL the grease off and run dry. I have had experience with this very type of noise that goes away in a few seconds when the bearing warms a little, but the balls are bone dry. If you don't have the tools, experience or mechanics stethoscope, take it to a professional or just change the 2 idler/tensioner bearings. They can be purchased online (original equipment) for a small fraction of the dealer price. It COULD be the water pump but my guess is the other 2. I wouldn't delay repair though!

My 1st suggestion would be to lube the drivers side lock cylinder with some WD-40 and see if you can get it working again. I THINK that's where your problem probably lies. The drivers door lock assy. has the strip sensors that control the automatic operation of the windows and sunroof. If the outside lock cylinder isn't working, it may very well be holding the lock just enough that it gets the wrong signal and opens the windows and sunroof automatically. Note that I am referring to the LOCK CYLINDER and DOOR LOCK (also called a latch assy.), two different things. Deal with the lock cylinder 1st. and see if it doesn't correct the other problem.

It will definitely start just by holding the plastic part of the key (which has a removable chip in it) next to the column. Hold it in close proximity to the metal part of the key. Shouldn't need it to run, just to start. You can actually take the chip out of the old key and put it in the new key and you won't have to program it, if you have trouble programing.

Yea Mike, I've changed the W/P twice on my DIL's '03 Durango (should be the same as your Ram 1500) and it NEEDED it both times because of leaking. Having cut the parts apart, I don't see how any of those T/L 3.0 W/P's EVER wear out. They are one fine peace of engineering and manuf.

Mike- Do you mean the door locks are problematic, or that when the doors (R&L) are opened the dome lights and the auto head lights are problematic?

Mike- As you can see if you went to that site, he has different packages so you can get pretty much whatever you want, from simple to complete. Probably even more than the average person would want. As I've said, being a curious soul, I cut the parts apart to see what they looked like and they were the finest parts I've ever seen. W/P was absolutely like new in every respect (I have the pictures) at about 127k mi.