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grandpa_spec98

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    Isaac

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  • Lexus Model
    LS400
  • Lexus Year
    1998
  • Location
    Ohio (OH)

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  1. I know these cheap “Denso” injectors run very horribly, I had a set previously and immediately switched to a Bosch replacement, worth the money. I was having cylinders run lean wherever the cheap injectors were. I’ve been relaying the info of these bad injectors, it should have its own forum though as a warning, or to come up on google when someone searches “Toyota replacement injectors” so people don’t buy them.
  2. Looking back on this I might want to try testing it, I found a factory e-fan on ebay that I’ll use until I find an OE replacement. If the kickup for A/C works and it idles nicely I’ll assume that was my problem. Now that I realize, it idles fine until you get to the temp the e-fan is regulating you at and then it starts losing consistency in the idle. I will check the valve as mentioned if possible, but the e fan may solve 3 of my problems, A/C not working, running slightly hot but it manages to stay within operating temp range, and the low idle. My next thing would be motor mounts, then drive the wheels off it until timing belt service interval comes into range. Coincidentally at 300k miles 🙂
  3. I hate to take up as much space on the forum as I have recently, but I just replaced my rotors and there is a metallic scraping noise from the rear right wheel. It seems like just a nick every rotation in one spot of the rotor, but I noticed that it only happens when accelerating. The rotor set screws did not come with the car, and the rotor was loose fitting around the studs, could the rotor be sliding on the hub causing the noise, and set screws solve the problem? I did an experiment and took the caliper off with the wheel off and torqued the rotor down with the lugnuts, which subsided the noise for awhile and it came back after the car sat for awhile.
  4. Thought I might add something to this, cleaned intake but it looked like someone was already in there, didn’t help. All of my codes are gone after reset but the idle is still low. Can’t tell if it idles up with A/C on as I am missing an e-fan at the moment, but the car idles up slightly with the headlights on, not sure if that means anything but I’m fine with driving around with my headlights on all the time if that’s what it takes to keep it running.
  5. Thought this was funny, posted a video of my exhaust and had some smoke come out the back of my exhaust. Mind you compression is within spec and the PS fluid is topped off with brand new Dexron III. I guess a Miata guy jumped to conclusions.
  6. Coming back to this I may have reached a conclusion. IAT and MAF are the same sensor. I would assume that they are bad and cause running lean, which causes the knock sensor. My only problem is accelerator pedal position circuit. Causing low idle and not sure how to fix that.
  7. Really looking for some insight on this, considering a battery disconnect and running the engine with the MAF unplugged to see if that changes anything. Really open to any ideas.
  8. I have a few noises coming from around the engine bay, I believe they will all be audible from the video attached, but here is the list. Rattling, either the serpentine belt tensioner bearing or a heat shield, audible at 650 RPM and below, 1,800 RPM and 3,000 RPM. Whining, already assessed as alternator as it gets louder as electronics like stereo and lights are turned on Ticking, assumed to be from injectors as I ran a bottle of injector cleaner through a tank of fresh 93 in about a week and in that period the noise quieted down a bit. All of the accessories off of the serpentine belt to be replaced soon, no records on when last replaced. Motor mounts will be done at the same time. One strange noise is a howling from the trans tunnel area in drive. I do not have a video, I would assume torque converter. It only happens when the car is cold, trans fluid pressure building? Still no idea. For those who have seen me a lot around the forum recently, yes the car is in dire need of some help, I plan to take it to the dealership for an inspection and get a list of what needs to be done, if that’s advisable. I would assume they would find more than me as I have little experience with this car. Rattles attached below IMG_0668.MOV
  9. Thanks, I’ve been looking into the process and I’ll probably be able to figure it out sometime tomorrow. As for the injectors, I have new OEM Denso injectors, not used reman Ebay injectors. Sure they are destined to fail on me at some point but for the time being they’ll work.
  10. Idle was very low today, CEL and Check VSC are on the dash of my 98. Read codes, came up with six, including a Current and Pending code for system too lean bank 1, as well as knock sensor bank one. Bank one injectors just replaced less than 100 miles ago. Pictures attached show data stream data, fuel trims do indicate that it is running lean, which could be my knock. Codes were: P0171 - System Too Lean Bank 1 (Current) P0171 - System Too Lean Bank 1 (Pending) P1120 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Current) P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor (Current) P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit (Current) P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit (Current) All of these codes came on at the same time, CEL was not on nor were there any stored codes before injector replacement. I believe they may have had an effect on the VSC system, and caused some sensors to go wack as well as the new injectors not being broken in, resulting in the knock sensor. Data stream attached below if any data from it helps.
  11. Read codes, came up with six, including a Current and Pending code for system too lean bank 1, as well as knock sensor bank one. Bank one injectors just replaced less than 100 miles ago. Video attached shows codes and data stream data, fuel trims do indicate that it is running lean. IMG_0540.MOV
  12. Any way to remove the blocker that was for HID bulbs? Didn’t notice it made my front lights look weird until I got LED bulbs. The piece appeared to move when I put the bulb in, which is why I assume it to be removable.
  13. So the throttle body wasn’t all that dirty, got a small cleaning and the motor was still acting up. Upon cleaning I noticed a connector where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body. (Shown Below) This connector was loose upon inspection and it turns out the clip is broken off. I would assume this is the throttle position sensor. Out of curiosity I started the engine with this connector unplugged and some strange but expected behavior followed. The idle was where it should be, on the dot if not a little high. As expected, there was no throttle response unless the pedal was mashed to the floor. (Shown below) IMG_0468.MOV So my question is, could the throttle position sensor have to do with my low idle, or did it trigger a failsafe somewhere in the ECM that told it to just keep running, no matter what.
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