pishta

They sell lowering springs (-1 inch) and tighter shocks (GR-2's, etc.) but lowering/tightening WILL affect the luxury feel of the car. How about a smaller aspect tire on a larger rim, like a +2, will give lower stancelook without affecting ride quality, to much extent. Smaller aspect tires will affect suspension a tad.

No, the turn signals are in the bumper on my year, they are orange and long. Im referring to the outer corner wrap around clear lights next to the main lights. Ill check the bulbs tonight if I can.

OK, found the little switch on the stalk that turns the fog lights on, they work. But no luck on the outboard lights. Both burned out and no indicator? At what situation do they turn on or are they on when the main lights are on? Thanks

OK, where is the switch, is it on the light control inside? Would a burned out bulb give me a indicator inside, my rear one did. Thanks.

Im wondering if they finally got your tire pressure correct with the N, 9 around town sounds like my old '57 Ford Hotrod with its Predator 1 barrel.

New to the '92 LS400, came with no manual. What are the lights that flank the main lights for? Called the corner lights and maybe fog lights? Anyway, I cant get them to do anything...Any clues? Like, do they turn on during a blinker, or maybe in parking light mode (only yellow bumper lights are on ) Thanks

We were talking 1st gen 89-94 in the original post, but that is a good find, although mine were cheaper :-)

That's interesting. What bushings would those be? thanks any update on the trans mount having any impact, how about the steering damper? there are a couple of us that are in the same boat in the vibration department. Mine must have been the little old man story, '92 with 93k on it, Old doctors that was retired and drove it to the golf course every weekend, since deceased so I hope the stereo doesnt have a security code on it! All records back to the original receipt, $52,760 out the door!!! It also has receipts for 3 different tire changes and the ones Im riding on now, that is 4 sets before 100k! Too bad he could pony up for the fender ding before he sold it to me....

Mine is to do a load balance on the tires on a Hunter GSP 9700 tire balancer (In widespread use today) . It uses a wheel to press onto the tire to simulate a load on the tire and then takes that measurement into consideration when balancing the tire. Looking into this I found a new Caddy CTX owner that couldnt get a high speed vibe diagnosed or corrected. He insisted that the dealership do this test and found that all 4 of his stock Continental tires failed this test! He got 4 dealer replacement tires from BFG (I think), they all passed and there is no more vibe, and of course a 4 wheel alignment so my steering wheel is exactly straight. After that its tie rod ends (could probably use them and they are cheap) and then a set of 200 dollar UCA's from Arnett. Its my wifes car so I dont drive it unless we are going somewhere so it bugs me far more than her.

1979-1993 Mustang w/o spoiler has the same strut as well as most period ford wagons for their hatches, , 78-81 Fairmont wagon hatch, etc, check here for applications for you yard walkers. Application Chart for Strong Arm #4408, direct application cross to the Autozone part number piece. Make Model Location Year AMC Hornet Sportabout Hatch 1977-78 FORD Fairmont Sta. Wagon Hatch 1978-81 FORD Granada Sta. Wagon Hatch 1982 FORD LTD Sta. Wagon Hatch 1983-86 FORD Mustang w/o Spoiler Hatch 1979-93 MERCURY Capri w/o Spoiler Hatch 1979-86 MERCURY Cougar Sta. Wagon Hatch 1982 MERCURY Marquis Sta. Wagon Hatch 1983-86 MERCURY Zephyr Sta. Wagon Hatch 1978-81 PLYMOUTH Volare Sta. Wagon (Hatch w/Ball Type End Fittings) Hatch 1976-77 After pouring over these posts and not being able to find any in the posted price ranges, I pulled the trigger on an Ebay auction for these and will post when I get them. for less than $31 bucks shipped I cant lose. If they dont fit, ill bolt them on my Breeze. Looks like they have the 10mm ball socket w/clips already on them. here is the auction number: 190045757754. check them out with some good closeup pictures of the socket ends. Which LS400's do these fit? 1st Gen, 2nd Gen? the cross reference for the autozone part is *BLEEP*ized for a 1st gen 89-94 LS400. There is a site that shows extended length, retracted length and "spring" pressure in lbs and also the end type. We are looking for a 10mm ball socket end that uses the 10mm ball studs we have.

Holy cow, that is cheap! I wonder what they cost nowdays...

1979-1993 Mustang w/o spoiler has the same strut as well as most period ford wagons for their hatches, , 78-81 Fairmont wagon hatch, etc, check here for applications for you yard walkers. Application Chart for Strong Arm #4408, direct application cross to the Autozone part number piece. Make Model Location Year AMC Hornet Sportabout Hatch 1977-78 FORD Fairmont Sta. Wagon Hatch 1978-81 FORD Granada Sta. Wagon Hatch 1982 FORD LTD Sta. Wagon Hatch 1983-86 FORD Mustang w/o Spoiler Hatch 1979-93 MERCURY Capri w/o Spoiler Hatch 1979-86 MERCURY Cougar Sta. Wagon Hatch 1982 MERCURY Marquis Sta. Wagon Hatch 1983-86 MERCURY Zephyr Sta. Wagon Hatch 1978-81 PLYMOUTH Volare Sta. Wagon (Hatch w/Ball Type End Fittings) Hatch 1976-77 After pouring over these posts and not being able to find any in the posted price ranges, I pulled the trigger on an Ebay auction for these and will post when I get them. for less than $31 bucks shipped I cant lose. If they dont fit, ill bolt them on my Breeze. Looks like they have the 10mm ball socket w/clips already on them. here is the auction number: 190045757754. check them out with some good closeup pictures of the socket ends.

dude, what was the part number? My Autozone doesnt stock the "correct" ones and the others are 20 a piece. did the ball work in the drilled out swivel? And the "autopartsbylou" struts are now 29 a piece...they know we need them so the prices are going UP!

Good to know. Mine seems to pull slightly to the r even after messing with the tie rod ends to get it to go straight. It only seems to pull R at speed so a worn part sounds correct as the r tire is being pulled back by the road. Ill check my outer tie rod ends. I am looking into those 200 buck UCA's on ebay. Question: Can you gut the worn ball joint in your old UCA and replace with a more cost friendly piece, like from a ford or something? I was looking into doing this but I would need a UCA to get specs on. this would involve removing the old BJ and machining the UCA to receive a new BJ , either bolt in or press fit with circlip retainer. A guy down in Australia did this with a SC400 and put in Holden V8 (new Pontiac GTO here) ball joints and now has a serviceable BJ in a "OEM" UCA.

Shabby, is that huge void supposed to be there on the bracket mount? Ill look at my 92 and see if it looks any better. Pishta, Did you have a chance to check out your differential mount to see if that gap is there on yours like in the above bracket .pdf file? sorry, not yet but Ill look at it tonight and get a pic if I can get under there. If you look at the high res photo of the "void" you can see a casting in the rubber that would not be there if it were a crack, well see. Looking back on these posts I see an entry that says the problem is on acceleration and not so much on cruise or decel. Long time ago, I had a pinion bearing in my differential go bad and that was the same symptom. On drive the bearing was pushed back on the good race due to the angle of the cut on the ring gear, when you cruised or decelerated the pinion was pushed forward against the bad bearing and made an audible noise. A cold bearing may not make the racket, but when it gets warm (hot) it expands and then gets noisy. Jim Here we go. As I suspected your "void" is engineered that way, see the casting mark I mentioned? As a CA car, mine is a little cleaner down there rust wise :-) But look what I DID find down there with the camera (shooting in almost total darkness with just the focus beam illuminating before the shot) Check out my driveshaft coupler. See the gaps between the Differential flange and the rubber coupler? I dont know if this is a flash illusion (flash is to the left of the lens as it takes a picture,so it would throw a shadow to the right of an object, the camera was upside down shooting this set of pics) or if the coupler is actually pulled away from the flange? Ill look again tomorrow in daylight/flashlight. Digital cameras are so cool....

check this out. I tried to seafoam my 96 Breeze, It sucked 3 oz. in OK, but it didnt smoke too much but it did for like 20 minutes! I think the shape of the intake had something to do with it. The 4 banger Breeze has a intake that has a low plenum and upswept runners to the cylinders. Looks like a header where the plenum would be at the bottom. I wonder if all the seafoam collected on the bottom and never really got in the cylinders to clean them? My mileage went from 32 to 24 but I think I might have made a mistake in the calulation. I still have my low speed knock and kinda bad idle in gear. Didnt seem to do anything productive except throw a cylinder 1 misfire code, not real productive. I like the idea of cylinder decarbonizing, but you can do that with a little water dribbled in the high idle throttle body too.

When you get your body kit, sell me your front bumper cover!! There is a company out here in Ontario, CA that has body kits on ebay, almost bought a spoiler type front bumper skin for 99 bucks with a small pick up charge (wanted 199 for shipping)

I just realized that the antenna goes up more on FM2 more so than FM1, thats pretty cool. Makes alot of sense, but it would be real cool if it went up and down according to what freq you were on...

Shabby, is that huge void supposed to be there on the bracket mount? Ill look at my 92 and see if it looks any better. Pishta, Did you have a chance to check out your differential mount to see if that gap is there on yours like in the above bracket .pdf file? sorry, not yet but Ill look at it tonight and get a pic if I can get under there. If you look at the high res photo of the "void" you can see a casting in the rubber that would not be there if it were a crack, well see. Looking back on these posts I see an entry that says the problem is on acceleration and not so much on cruise or decel. Long time ago, I had a pinion bearing in my differential go bad and that was the same symptom. On drive the bearing was pushed back on the good race due to the angle of the cut on the ring gear, when you cruised or decelerated the pinion was pushed forward against the bad bearing and made an audible noise. A cold bearing may not make the racket, but when it gets warm (hot) it expands and then gets noisy. Jim

Shabby, is that huge void supposed to be there on the bracket mount? Ill look at my 92 and see if it looks any better.

God Bless you!! I live in houston and should be able to drive my 94 LS400 down there and get it fixed. SWEET!!! I have a 92 LS400 165K, idle is always at berween 400-600, looks like lower than 600 but also seems like 400. is that normal? used to have one stall after off fwy. check the TPS on the throttle body. You can turn it (adjust it) to get your idle back to 750. There is a measurement that you can take, its explained in the manual or you can look it up as it has a picture associated with it to assist you in adjusting it.

So you buy a Nakamichi on ebay for a 100 bucks to upgrade your Pioneer and you are stuck with a locked out stereo? I just bought a 92 with a stock Pioneer and am afraid to change the battery now as the original owner is dead! How do I know if the security is enabled ?

Do you have the AZ part numbers? -B- Th Auto Zone struts MIGHTY-LIFT LIFT Part No.: C95029 Just ask them for the part. they will say it doens't work on Lexus if you tell them so.... Just take it and gone and install and laugh for saving money..... Thanks, will look into them.

Well, they are not $15 a set anymore as implied, but are 19.99 a piece and are still not the correct ones. I dont get the instructions on what to do when you get the ball joints out. Do you stick them into the new ones? They look like bolt holes to me. not sockets.

I looked into doing my 2 bad ones. I took one out and it was completely flat. I could play it like a trombone...the other was still a little firm, but in no shape to hold up the hood. I saw one that had the same ends on it at autozone, didnt know the maker, but looking at the price, I knew it was the Lexus one, it was 41 bucks a piece compared to the 11-18 for the others...I took it out and noted the strength of the gas pressure. I could not compress that piston even with my weight on it! Maybe all 140 lbs, but as much as I could put on it without putting a hole in my hand. Are they really that pressurized??? When I took the flat one off, It expanded a little more than the hood would allow it to (maybe because the other one was still attached) but do you have to compress the bugger to line up the bolts? that would be a major undertaking with these bad boys! Looking to keep the broomstick if it is a hassle! and how about those 25 buck Auto-Mart brands on ebay? Thanks.