Jump to content


pishta

Regular Member
  • Posts

    237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by pishta

  1. Guy is in Rancho Cucamonga, It on craigslist too, the pic looks like a tree fell on the roof!
  2. Sounds like it is supposed to do that to facilitate entry, but it should return after the door is closed. Not sure, but a neat feature!
  3. I pulled the drive shaft out today as well as the transmission mount. The driveshaft has a single u-joint in the middle near the center bearing. Mine is definitely bad. Should have caught it the first time. You can feel that it is grooved when its moved. Its very rough. Feels and sounds exactly like what I feel in the steering wheel and gas pedal. I have high hopes. I'll know in a few days. The u-joint is staked. No one lists a part number for it since they consider it not serviceable. Easy to get around though. Its a common u-joint. I’ll replace it with one that has the in-board cir-clips rather than staking a new one. The trans mount looks like its seen better days. Its not broken but the rubber is soft and flattened Will change it and the driveshaft center bearing. Elvis Well, I started this thread so Ill add again to it. I replaced my rear carrier bushings and that helped about 90% meaning it has reduced the vibe to about 10% of what it was. My shafts were twistable with my hand so I found a set of bushings on craigslist for 40 bucks, too good to pass so I did them and WOW, what a difference. My bushings didnt look bad, they were just soft. It is hard to see in there because the location of the bushings, but I got then out, put the new ones in and drove around. No more rear end wandering and the vibration from the rear seems to be gone. Im going to look into the driveshaft U-joint. ANy cross reference for a part number?
  4. Saw this on Craigslist, sounds like a steal!!! lexus 92 conversion shocks full package. - $160 Reply to: sale-461643886@craigslist.org Date: 2007-10-27, 8:19PM EDT brand new ls400 lexus conversion shocks and struts. I purchased this conversion for my lex, But i sold the car without putting the shocks on . any trade welcome. jevor7jjunior@optonline.net 845 505 9888 * Location: ny * it's ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests PostingID: 461643886
  5. I got mine from Best Suspension Dont know if they have anymore but worth a shot. Tell 'em svtm sent you.
  6. Some tips on this job. I did the second side in 36 minutes after learning from the 2 hour first side. Dont try and drill out the center section of the bushing, just put the bolt and nut back into it, tighten the nut and use your ratchet to twist the inner part out, took me 6 seconds! then use your sawzall and cut your sectional piece out and the rest will push out with your fingers. It took me about 2 minutes per cut and the center part was out in about 5 minutes,just be careful as the sawzall tends to move up and down a bit when it oscillates. I used regular lithium grease to lube them up on recomendation from a suspension guy as poly is impervious to petroleum based grease. You can even drill and tap a zerk fitting to the bottom of the knuckle and grease to your hearts content. I also used a long tapered rod (or big screwdriver) to align the knuckle to the shaft yoke once the new bushing was in place, it is very difficult to get them back in alignment without the leverage the screwdriver affords. The fix is worth its time on gold, what a difference the "new" bushing has on the quality of the ride ! They are $31 a side on Ebay right now. DO IT!!!
  7. Interesting, I have another chart that shows that even after the K&N was completely clogged, it still was 50% better than a new paper filter in flow. Granted that these tests were out of a high performance book that is geared toward "more in--more out" theory, It is just a matter of how you manipulate the data. Any good surveyor can gleen the sought after data, no matter who he asks, or how they answer. So it comes down to flow vs. efficiency. Most of us drive on paved roads anyway. The author was convinced the K&N was the superior air filter for HIS applications. Question: what was the "restriction limit" on the filters? Was it a pressure drop test or ? Reason asked is that the paper elements typically have a 1 stage filter, it is a paper element that has microscopic holes in it, once plugged, they are done. The K&N has a much deeper 3 stage filtering process, cotton media, oil, and electro-static. so it takes much longer to clog down to a paper element flow rate.
  8. I have evidence that the K&N filter outflows all paper element filters by a factor of 2X and its filtering ability is unsurpassed when used properly. gAI Please post the evidence. Here you go, you can make your own decision. factor of 2 was taken off a pressure drop test comparing elements, not this test. kn3.bmp
  9. I have evidence that the K&N filter outflows all paper element filters by a factor of 2X and its filtering ability is unsurpassed when used properly. Gains of 6% can be had on a V8 going from a restrictive paper element to a K&N style filter. (David Vizard, How to build Horsepower, Vol.2, SA Design, 1996) Motorcraft filter elements were the best paper style elements and FRAM were the worst. 15X3 circle element was tested. .........
  10. How about wiring the power to the sunroof into the power window buss? The speed control works that way for safety I believe. Do any of your cars cruise controls work your prefered way? I got another; directional rims, you cant rotate the tires but one way.
  11. Well, found a set on craigslist for 40 bucks for 2 pair, left and right. Cheap enough to not pass up, even if I don't NEED them. I got them in the mail, and I am really dissapointed that these cost more than about 10-15 bucks! I mean, if they do the job, great, but SOMEONE can make these for pennies on the dollar and still clean up at 15 bucks a side. Allow me to point out the basics: 1. They are polyurethane, that means they are made of skateboard wheel material, and the old soft style at that! Around 80a durometer as fas as I could tell by squeezing them. 2. The pin is just Turned steel, I don't think the diameter or wall thickness is special, but the length and bore must be through bolt close and strut rod yoke wide. 3. Get yourself 4 48mm 81a solid skateboard wheels, ( bust out those old skates in your closet!) no deep dish or fancy insides, about 15 bucks shipped on Ebay. You can even get pretty colors! Turn them down and drill them out like my dimensioned drawing on a lathe with a wicked sharp bit. 4. Find some pin material, like spacer stock or thick wall hollow rod (metal supply or make your own) Make sure its diameter is 22mm or larger than the bearing race in the wheel. Drill the id to the bolt diameter. You can make the diameter any size that is convenient, just match the bore of the bushing material with a snug fit. 5. So: Get a machine shop to make you about 20 pins, buy 5 sets of skateboard wheels and spend an evening behind your lathe and sell each set for 15 bucks. Then move on to other LS bushings, simply, no? 6. Want it cheaper, buy 1 ADUS 505 bushing set. Make some plaster or silicone molds of the ADUS bushing and buy some 2 part polyurethane casting resin. At 75a, its very close to the ADUS softness (maybe a little softer) Pour a few dozen and get your pins made and bag'em in sets. Sell to all members of us.lexusownersclub.com! Well, maybe not that easy, but why are these so expensive??? They really are not that special, but if they get a 45,000 dollar car (new) back to factory ride, maybe we are not the people to talk to about penny pinching.... Follow up: Installed both sides today and OMG! Now this is what the car is supposed to drive like! Rear is completely stable. No more !Removed! wagging when you go over a bump in a turn. The rear does not sag anymore. I think my shocks are actually good! Noise over lane bumps is much quieter. This repair has really helped this car. I am impressed again, and to quote myself, "they really are not that special" I was wrong. They ARE special in the way that they make the car drive again, but they still are not that physically special. The old ones were so soft, only 1/2 inch of rubber at the core of these bushings, the rest is void. My control rod could twist with light hand pressure, now it is solid. To appreciate what these bushings do, unhook the rod and move the carrier around, it is fairly easy to do and these bushings basically push the car forward and haul the car to a stop as well as keep the rear wheels tracking true. Lots of forces on this set of bushings. A few points to stress when you do this job: Use jack stands. Dont bother drilling out the rubber bushing or burning it out or even pressing it out (unless you have a 33mm arbor, not real common) Just Tighten the nut/bolt and twist it out, I drilled the first one and pushed/pulled it out. Took me about 10 minutes drilling and cutting. Saw what it was made like and the second one was twisted out in 6 seconds and left alot less rubber in the there to cut through. Use a sawzall carefully. It is hard to see behind the brake shield on the bottom. I uses a rocking motion with the sawzall to cut down to the iron on each side then flattened it out to watch my progress, worked great. 2 sectional cuts, the piece literally jumped out, and the rest of the bushing pushed out with little more than finger pressure. I used lithium grease to lube the polyurethane bushings as they are impervious to petroleum as stated on the MSDS, no need for 5 buck an ounce grease! They pushed right in and the greased pin tapped in with the butt of a screwdriver, snug fit. Now the hard part, the arm does not want to reach back to the new bushing. I thought I tweaked something, but it was just the way the multi link suspension wants to sit relaxed. You need to muscle the carrier forward and turn the carrier inward to line up the trailing arm. It is difficult to do but I found a real easy way to do it. Dont try and lift it, it does not get it any closer, you need to turn the front part of the wheel inward, that gets it close, then you use a strong screwdriver or my tool, a long tapered punch. Put it in and lever the carrier and bushing to align. All these little tricks were from doing the first side and learning better ways to do it. I started the one side at 1:30 and by 4:30 I was done with that side and wondering if I could even do the other side tonight. Granted I did walk to the corner autoparts store to buy the "special" grease, and look for a few lost tools in my tiny garage. I would say a solid 2 hours for the first side. The second side took my 34 minutes from the time I cracked the lugs to the tire back on the ground and that was including some sawzall blade issues. I could do the next pair in under an hour, time me! FLEXY VIDEO
  12. 92 LS400: 1. Polygraphite bushings from the start w/zerk fittings. These OEM rubber ones suck! 2. Speed variable volume on the radio, I know they are so quiet but it is a cool feature. 3. How about serviceable ball joints! 4. A/C control displays that last as long as the radio display. 5. Bigger trunk Other than 1 and 4, these were design issues, but its still a very nice car.
  13. Model? Year? Please post a pic of the line and its location if you are able. Thanks. I did mine and it barely smoked. Wonder what I did wrong? Sucked 6 oz. through the brake booster hose. Same procedure..
  14. He's alive, I got a PM from him on Sat. Said he was unavailable for the past few weeks. Have not got back with him yet.
  15. Just feel your rims after a drive, the sticking caliper will heat up your rotor something fierce and itll go straight to your rim. One will be way hotter than the other.
  16. at the dealer actually, for about $50 bucks. A lot of dealerships have implemented the "rear carrier bushing repair kit", which is just the bushings, instead of the entire arm. I can't remember off hand, but I think they're the ASUS 530 or 503 or 505, or somthing like that...they'll know. they are 32 bucks a side on Ebay right now and they a look just like this: ADUS 505
  17. Well, found a set on craigslist for 40 bucks for 2 pair, left and right. Cheap enough to not pass up, even if I don't NEED them. I got them in the mail, and I am really dissapointed that these cost more than about 10-15 bucks! I mean, if they do the job, great, but SOMEONE can make these for pennies on the dollar and still clean up at 15 bucks a side. Allow me to point out the basics: 1. They are polyurethane, that means they are made of skateboard wheel material, and the old soft style at that! Around 80a durometer as fas as I could tell by squeezing them. 2. The pin is just Turned steel, I don't think the diameter or wall thickness is special, but the length and bore must be through bolt close and strut rod yoke wide. 3. Get yourself 4 48mm 81a solid skateboard wheels, ( bust out those old skates in your closet!) no deep dish or fancy insides, about 15 bucks shipped on Ebay. You can even get pretty colors! Turn them down and drill them out like my dimensioned drawing on a lathe with a wicked sharp bit. 4. Find some pin material, like spacer stock or thick wall hollow rod (metal supply or make your own) Make sure its diameter is 22mm or larger than the bearing race in the wheel. Drill the id to the bolt diameter. You can make the diameter any size that is convenient, just match the bore of the bushing material with a snug fit. 5. So: Get a machine shop to make you about 20 pins, buy 5 sets of skateboard wheels and spend an evening behind your lathe and sell each set for 15 bucks. Then move on to other LS bushings, simply, no? 6. Want it cheaper, buy 1 ADUS 505 bushing set. Make some plaster or silicone molds of the ADUS bushing and buy some 2 part polyurethane casting resin. At 75a, its very close to the ADUS softness (maybe a little softer) Pour a few dozen and get your pins made and bag'em in sets. Sell to all members of us.lexusownersclub.com! Well, maybe not that easy, but why are these so expensive??? They really are not that special, but if they get a 45,000 dollar car (new) back to factory ride, maybe we are not the people to talk to about penny pinching....
  18. How are those clear lens installed you get on Ebay? do you unglue the amber lens?
  19. Well, you could tap into the TT and E1 terminals of the diagnostic port and have a device read the voltage for R, that cuold trigger the down motor switch in the side mirror ECU, but I dont know how you would have them revert to where they were. check this post out: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=41455
  20. Removing the black fiberboard is pretty easy as I did this to get to the taillights. It is held in by these little plastic push in rivets. They pull out with some force, but the way to do this without hurting the fiberboard is to use a screwdriver and pry behind the rivets as close as possible to the rivet, a 2 prong fork would work perfectly if it were strong enough. They push right back in when they need to. Looking at the latch will probably reveal the problem. Good luck.
  21. bottoms are about 60 bucks for the pair and are easy to install. Tops are 200 and are part of the Upper control arm. Im assuming you are talking about a 89-94 LS400, the SC400 bottom ball joints are part of their arms and are not serviceable. The uppers can be tested by unbolting them from the spindle and turning the ball joint 5 times. If they maintain 15 in/lbs (ft/lbs??) tension while turning after 5 times they are still good according to Lexus (strange way to test but it is written) I would do the lowers first and see if that fixes it, its cheap and probably needs it anyway.
  22. Has ANYONE heard from this new poster, "amberj32" Im starting to wonder if it is valid. If so, Amberj32, Please contact me!! Aaargh! this person is in my back yard and I cant contact him/her!!!
  23. Looks like the problem was caused by the timing belt jumping a tooth on one cam. Replaced the timing belt (& water pump while I was in there) and the engine runs great again - all cylinders show 170+ psi compression. Great tutorial on changing the belt/water pump here http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html#20 rgds Dave Glad you figured it out, a belt jumping a tooth on a cam cog almost defies logic as the belt is in contact with over 1/2 of the teeth on the cog, but I do believe you. Motors can do weird thinks. I broke a cam in half on a 1.5l Honda motor, cam bearing in the head seized and just twisted it right in half.
  24. I stand corrected, the front suspension is not pivoting on the strut mounts, more common on a front wheel drive car. the power steering pump puts out a finite amount of pressure, that should be able to be measured out of a port or even the output port of the pump. Im sure a big Lexus manual may have the pump pressure spec handy for your mechanic to reference. a slipping belt due to a bad tensioner would howl like a wolf once a load is put on it, you would know.
  25. The gasket is about a buck cheaper than the entire cap assembly, you need the vented cap as the ECM checkes for pressure in the tank or else throws a check engine light. My OBD2 96 Breeze will throw a code about 5 minutes after I leave the cap off or not tightened.
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership