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pishta

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Everything posted by pishta

  1. So, you are talking about the 3-4 small "S" routed hoses coming off the cast intake horn? Mine has done that twice off idle A/C on full after waiting in line. Ill look at mine.
  2. Things to check, plugged filter in servo (on rack, but not included in a new rack) or front strut mounts. They are the bearings that your car struts ride under. When you turn, the struts turn under these large bearings. If they are shot, youll get a huge drag on the steering gear and possibly a hard steering wheel. Mine is kinda tight when stationary too, chalked it up to a "road feel" type of P/S system, not like the one finger steering of an American car.
  3. Has ANYONE heard from this new poster, "amberj32" Im starting to wonder if it is valid. If so, Amberj32, Please contact me!!
  4. WHITE How can I get a hold of you? I need a fender, mine is white too! pishta68 at hotmail.com
  5. Wow, my car pulls to the right too! I eyeballed the tires and they look laser straight, did a few measurements and all seems dead on with an angle finder, laser level and even a plumb bob and a measureing tape! It still pulls right. I even cheated the tie rod ends a few turns. Im going to rotate the tires tomorrow!
  6. I think the dealers are GR-2's now and they are NOT 52 each anymore, more like 120. A set just went on Ebay for 90 bucks for the rear set and 71 for the front set, about 230 for the complete set plus shipping from a few places on the internet for GR-2's about 30 more for Tokico.
  7. Where are you at in So. Cal? Im in Tustin and may need a few pieces. What color is it, Email me at pishta68 at hotmail.com. Maybe I can swing by and take a look.
  8. I would vote for a bad coil myself. Are the cats REAL hot after a missing run or do you smell a strong exhaust odor? A HOT cat is fuel getting burned in the cat due to faulty ignition. Plug wires that ohm out are good in my eyes-- if they are not cracked, thatll cause cross fires and poor performance. I dont think the coils are all that proprietary, you may be able to try another coil from another car if you can get them wired up for testing. I would pull the neg for about an hour while you are swapping coils just to get the ECU to reset the fuel curve to baseline. Trick on the plug wires, pull the covers and idle the car in complete dark garage, look for any jumping sparks but remember to vent the garage, dont kill yourself looking for a engine problem!
  9. Booster is leaking again. Hard brake means the brakes are bled, sinking brake when engine is running means the booster diaphragm is leaking. sorry.
  10. Oh and by the way, it only happens when you depress the brake pedal, and only sometimes (maybe every 3rd or 4th time) I would suspect a very small tear in the diaphragm, causing a woodwind type reed vibration sound. Your booster holds a vacuum for a few minutes so when you shut down you can still hear it. Probably needs replacing, or just live with it, itll get worse after time, possibly to a dangerous level, pedal will sink to floor with all boost gone.
  11. The 1UZFE was the same from 89 through 97 all non interference motors. break a belt, repair belt. idlers and water pump while you are in there. Timing belts will dry rot over time even if you dont use them. like he said lateral cracks are ok, longitudinal cracks are bad. Case in point: Ferrari F40, interference notor big time. We had in our garage an F40 with 640 miles on it, it was a garage kept queen gathering dust on the top shelf. we had to start it up and hot lap it once every month just to keep the thing operational so when the owner wanted to cruise it, it would be ready. He never did, but...Anyway, the mechanic/curator of the collection was scared everytime we started it up as it had a BELT as opposed to the Lambo 5000S's chain. We would have to pull the Ferrari motor to replace the belt, not fun, but that belt was SO old that he thought it was going to shred at any moment. Sold it to Vegas collection before it broke. That is called a thread jack...but a fun one to recite.
  12. Did the flushing do anything to the "assist" level? Much gunk or debris? Is it leaking from the pressure side or the return side? Pressure side has LOTS of PSI going through it, like 300 or something, I would try and tighten or maybe check and see if there is a metal one time use gasket that crushes and needs to be replaced anytime you break the seal. If it is the return side, same but lower pressure.
  13. Thanks, that is what I was looking for, that the GR-2's are "OEM" according to Lexus, or OEM replacements. Those seem to be about $86 for front and back each. My rear bushings are in the mail, $20 a set on craigslist, SCORE! the seller wrecked his car before he could install them but said the mechanic said that the rear end would shudder or knock on braking if they were bad, ,makes sense as the rear carrier would be pulled back on braking against the control arm bushing. I will install the shocks after I do the bushings if I still think I need them.
  14. Got part numbers? I like to shop them on the internet so I have a little idea on what the dealer should charge me, it has worked in the past, " Lexus of x quoted me xx.xx!" Thanks
  15. Looking to replace my dying struts. Are KYB GR-2's stock feel or are they 10% firmer, It looks like there is a firm part number too or is that a firm option? They seem to be the least expensive at around $90 a piece. Can you still get OEM at a dealership, who makes them (Tokico?) and how much are they (around 50 bucks on another post!?) ? 92 LS400, part number? I couldnt find them on Sewells. Thanks
  16. I think the correct idle is about 650 +- 50 at idle in or out of gear w/AC off. AC may raise your idle to about 750 but it usually stabalizes. Lights may alter the idle a minute amount. The idle is set by the ECU so I dont think the TPS would affect the true idle circuit. The IAC just meters a small amount of air around the closed throttle plate and the injectors get a short duty cycle from the ECU. I dont know of any "hardware" fix to raise or lower the programmed idle. I would seriously consider a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will cause the idle to be very lean as the iac would get a signel from the ECU to close becasue it already sees air in the intake, kinda complicated, but a vacuum leak in a carbureted motor causes a high idle that is very lean and has absolutely no power. You can look at the vacuum hose diagram on the hood and start pinching soft lines with a plier to see if you can isolate the leak. Do it while idling to see if any pinched lines casue the idle to raise. That or a bad coil, does the exhaust smell of strong unburned gas? Bummer....You can also try and reset the ECU, just pull the negative cable for about 30 minutes. So it should be about 650rpm cold? Mine is about that when warm, but seems very high before warming up. Its high but goes down to 650 after about 30 seconds. I think it is high to warm the cats and get them operational. The BMW uses an electric heater to get theirs cooking! Wow, just thought of something...wonder if the cats or 02 sensors have anything to do with this problem??? like do they put the ECU into a closed loop mode until they get heated and that is casuing the idle to be off? Any FI gurus in here that can theorize this condition?
  17. I have read the 93's are the best year for reliability. I too have the A/C stumble, my wife has felt it twice, thinking the car was unsafe to drive, she took a detour to the closest parking lot and called me, problem was not replicated so we just moved on, interesting someone else had this problem though. 93 AC uses R-134, not R-12, that is good and bad, good that you can refill it for 7 bucks, bad is it doesnt work as well as a R-12 system. Belts for the cassette can be purchased at any electronics store. just bring in your old one, they go by size, not manufacturer part number (helps if there is one though) I have used rubber bands!
  18. I think the correct idle is about 650 +- 50 at idle in or out of gear w/AC off. AC may raise your idle to about 750 but it usually stabalizes. Lights may alter the idle a minute amount. The idle is set by the ECU so I dont think the TPS would affect the true idle circuit. The IAC just meters a small amount of air around the closed throttle plate and the injectors get a short duty cycle from the ECU. I dont know of any "hardware" fix to raise or lower the programmed idle. I would seriously consider a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will cause the idle to be very lean as the iac would get a signel from the ECU to close becasue it already sees air in the intake, kinda complicated, but a vacuum leak in a carbureted motor causes a high idle that is very lean and has absolutely no power. You can look at the vacuum hose diagram on the hood and start pinching soft lines with a plier to see if you can isolate the leak. Do it while idling to see if any pinched lines casue the idle to raise. That or a bad coil, does the exhaust smell of strong unburned gas? Bummer....You can also try and reset the ECU, just pull the negative cable for about 30 minutes.
  19. pump brakes a few times to get a hard pedal with motor off. Push brake and start car, brake should sink a little, not go to floor. Stop car and wait about 30 seconds. push brakes again, you should feel the assist, ie. it should go down a few like you were idling. If it doesnt, you have a leak somewhewre, it could be as simple as the vacuum one way valve thats pushed into the brake booster, a cheap part to fix. It could be an air pocket somewhere but if you bled them that is not likely. Sometimes you can hear a brake booster hissing when you put the brakes on. a booster is not that hard to replace, just getting it in and out may be a hassle. I did my Suburbans for less than 120 bucks but that was a truck...with a large engine compartment. Hardest part was getting the nuts loose behind the dash.
  20. An easy test for a coolant leak is getting a pressure test cap from a parts store, usually loaned out per model. It attaches and you pump air into the system with a bike pump or something that will not exceed 16 lbs pressure and has a guage on it. You pump it up, look for any pinhole leaks and watch the leak down guage and see if it loses any pressure. Lots of people replace the radiator cap or other pressure sensetive caps in the system and have good results. always fill a cold system to the low point as coolant has a lower volume when it is cold.
  21. The 1st gen LS FR tire is held on by 5 points. lower control arm is the bottom point, it comes straight out from the frame, EZ to see if it is bent. It holds the lower ball joint which is the lower pivot point of the hub/spindle. The LCA is held perpendicular to the frame by the front strut bar. It is a diagonal bar that runs from the outer end of the LCA forward to the bumper support area through a series of rubber cushions. The UCA are the hoops that contain the upper ball joint and they attach to the frame around the shock coil. They are at a slight angle back to make the car want to go straight instead of wander to one side by using the weight of the car and the natural tendency of a wheel seeking the path of least resistance (the shopping cart wheel visual) The Tie rod guides the hub/spindle in the right direction. The tie rod has 2 ends, inner (hidden by the accordian covers) and outer. Outer end has the ball joint, inner just screws onto the rack. If you hit a wall at an oblique angle, you would either: 1. Break the tie rod ball joint end outward 2. strip the tie rod off the rack 3. pull the rack out of alignment (likely to an extent because it is held on my clamps, not through bolts) 4. bend the front strut bar or damage its insulators (probable) 5. knock the LCA out of alignment as it pivots on a rubber bushing (held in alignment by the front strut bar) 6. Damaged the hub bearing shaft (bent would cause the wheel to wobble) All of these damaged to an extent could allow the car to get more out of static alignment than can be corrected by the alignment adjusters built into the suspension. At a minimum you are looking at replacing tie rod end (~$40 part plus labor), adjusting the steering rack(labor only) and maybe a LCA bushing (~$80 plus lots of labor) and or front strut bar bushing (~60 and labor) . Very rough estimates but you may get the feel of what may be expected. IF you go to Lexus to repair, triple all parts costs.
  22. Newer cars have a federal warranty on Emissions (cats) good to 80k/8yr. I have read since 96, most will last 100k on a properly tune car. Things that cause them to fail are: oil blowby (rings, valve seals, etc) bad O2's (unburned gas) Bad EGR's, Coils or any ignition related problems...the older cats on carbureted cars didnt last long becasue of the imprecise metering of a carburetor as opposed to the FI monitoring. Rust or ehaust leaks that let in O@ into the cat can casaue them to overheat and melt the substrate, causing a clog. A backpressure guage can diagnose a cat gone bad (clogged) or a downstream O2 sensor compared to an upstream O2 sensor. Dont pay for an OEM cat, they are here in So. Cal for 95 bucks a piece installed. Imagine what you can get for more? Long time ago i heard someone say that you could cut 'em out after 7 years as that is all they were worth, probably a wives tale.
  23. I dont think 400 miles is going to break anything especially at highway speeds. Stop and go is worse on the mounts. You have 3 hard points. 2 in the front and one in the back. the motor will mot go anywhere especially since the exhaust is still intact, that is another piece that is "holding" your motor in. Dont let it bother you, just put it on your list of things to save up for. Passenger side is relatively easy as well as the trans mount when you support it to drop the crossmember. The driver side is a little dicey as it is behind the steering rack guts. Just dont drag race anyone before you change them out!
  24. Only person it'll *BLEEP* off is the tow truck driver trying to tow/repo your ride! Don't worry about it.
  25. Torque convertor is like the impeller in your washing machine. when the impeller turns in the washing machine, the outer drum wants to turn too since all the water is turning in the direction of the impeller, right? Imagine the motor turninghte impeller and the transmission attached to the washing machine drum, it is all connected by the fluid in the convertor so you can be idling without going anywhere, the fluid just doesnt have the velocity to turn the "drum" (transmission) .OK. now imagine a small brake drum inside the convertor that applies when the car tells it to, that brake drum effectively locks both the impeller (input shaft) and the convertor body (the drum) together, now the motor is directly attached to the transmission input shaft, they are physically attached so they spin at the same speed. If your lockup clutch is bad (it never connects) your transkmission speed will fluctuate while it tries to speed up to the motor speed (applies) and then slips down to normal convertor speed (it releases or slips) The convertor in a non locked up state usually runs about 95% motor speed as it always has a little slippage (when not locked up) .
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