pishta

They were "OEM" brand as in "made by OEM" , NOT Toyota, check the box out. Only difference I saw was that the 17mm bolt mating surfaces were faced (machined or ground flat) on the original ball joint and the aftermarket unit were just cast flat.

Here is my Ball joints for idiots tutorial, just open the album in sequence and read the comments. It is based on a 92 but im sure they are not that much different, it is literally 6 bolts after the tire is off. tutorial

Its long gone according to the owner.

If anyone has an old shot first gen LS400 UCA or a set, Ill buy/pay postage it off you. Im trying to design a retrofit ball joint and I need a doner UCA for measurements. Im looking at a pressed in sleeve and a captive Ford Ball joint as a replacement system but need a bad one to start. This is a labor of love, so be kind! Thanks--pishta68 at hotmail.com

Hot conditions, not at all. I’m in CT, winter is brutal out here. We don’t have does long hot summers out here. That’s what I was thinking, changing back to at least 5W 30. But, do you think the Synthetic Oil has anything to do with it ? I was thinking of going regular oil. I seriously doubt the oil has anything to do with it... when was the last time you cleaned the throttle bodies? I've had the car for about 4 months, I don’t know if it has been previously done. Like I said before changing the oil, the car was fine. Honestly, I do not even know what the throttle bodies are. Please elaborate That sounds like a classic ignition problem, I would replace your plugs with some Platinum ones (OEM) and check the resistance of the plug wires and the 2 coil wires, none should spec out over 25k Ohms with an ohm meter. Since you dont know what a throttle body is (its the coke can looking thing coming off the left side of the shiny thing on top of the motor...) I would recommend a shop do the plugs. Im very familiar with motors and it took me about 90 minutes to replace the plugs and check the wires as there are a miriad of covers and intake items that need to be removed. Have them put a can of carb/throttle body cleaner through it when they have the intake tube off for the plug replacement.

If you're clunking when hitting potholes, bumps, etc I would investigate lower ball joints first. Much cheaper, easier to install, and fixes the infamous 1LS clunk most of the time. Just replaced my right front, and it took less than an hour from wheel off to wheel on. And they are 55 bucks a pair on Ebay!

Yeah... I got what I needed for changing my oil + coolant... Thanks all.. 99LS.. yeah... they're "shimmying" Remove rotors and get them turned. 7.50 a piece here in town. Max runout, or warp on a 90-94 is a minute .0020 inch or .050 mm. That is small.

When you say bouncy, was the rear just soft (like it would bottom out on a speed bump) or would it actually "bounce" ( like more than 2 oscillations after you push down on the rear bumper)? Mine LS is soft and I want a little more brawn back there. Gotta check out pops SC400 with $1300 bucks of all new struts to see what it should feel like. I know the springs are the suspension but if a strut/shock is bad, there is no resistance to compressing over the slightest dip or bump.

Well, I pulled the trigger and committed to do the trade. I am going over there 1 more time to give it the final inspection, looking at all the things in the LS400 buyers guide posted here. The dealer fixed the R light. Question: When is the factory interval for timing belt, 80 or 100K? and do you need to do the tensioner bearings while you are down there? I already bought a Goodyear Gatorback timing belt for 17 bucks on Ebay! Update: Got the white over silver LS last night, excellent condition besides the small right corner bumper/fender issue, will pop out and rub out this weekend. Pouring through the extensive service records, I found at 69K, the timing belt was replaced, Whoo hoo! They also did the water pump, resealed the power stearing box, did the front bearings and seals and stearing linkage and front brakes. That is a huge relief as I was about to put the wnning bid on the belt. I will change out the plugs and test the wires, do a oil change and all the "Gee, I just got a different car so Ill check ..." stuff. 77,000 mile check up from a garage suggests lower balljoints, hmmm.Everything works, I think i need to replace the battery in the key. I even have the window sticker. Service receipts all the way back to 91 including the receipt from Tustin Lexus, $41,378.33 dated 12/23/91. Im at ease...

Well, I pulled the trigger and committed to do the trade. I am going over there 1 more time to give it the final inspection, looking at all the things in the LS400 buyers guide posted here. The dealer fixed the R light. Question: When is the factory interval for timing belt, 80 or 100K? and do you need to do the tensioner bearings while you are down there? I already bought a Goodyear Gatorback timing belt for 17 bucks on Ebay!

The guy now wants to kick in a grand to boot. That is The LS and $1000 bucks. Thatll almost cover the timing belt at the dealer..Hell, Ill do that myself! He took it to the dealer and gothe indicator fixed, not sure if it was the taillight or R when the brakes are applied. Although the bumper scrape is still there. Anyone know what a pearl white bumper skin goes for at the dead Lexus store? My 93 Diamante's rear was 600! Insurance is another $170 a year and Premium gas, does it run on regular? What is the compression of the LS motor that demands premium? Im a Hot Rodder and if the compression is not more than about 9.8:1, premium is a rip off, especially with AL heads. This car was driven for the last 5 years by an old man to the golf course and back, a real car in barn story.

Guy wants to trade me my 156K 96 Suburban for his dead dads 96k 92 LS400. Looked at it and found a few things not mentioned: front right fender and bumper scraped (he ran it into something at a very low speed and shallow angle , probably bounced off but fender slightly dented and bumper cover has 8 by 8 inch scuff down to primer and about a 1/2 inch deflection of sheetmetal) R as in Reverse light on trans indicator goes on when you brake (is this a hidden indicator of low brake pads or something?) Also there is a indicator that looks like a car with its rear lights accented deep in the middle of the cluster, yellow in color. I looked at the taillights and they all seem to work, didnt check brake lights. No CD player. White in color and has the cheesy wheel covers with silver accents (oxidized bright trim pieces, paint looks ok). I didnt check if it had air suspension, but the rear seemed pretty soft. I went over a few speed bumps at about 3 mph and the rear seemed to bottom out ever so gently, normal? (oh forgot, he did have a hardwood dresser back there) I didnt ask if the timimg belt had been changed but he had a 1 inch thick folder of maintenance receipts. My Suburban is perfect except typical 90's clear coat paint cancer, some stainless trim pieces that have shopping cart dents and it goes through about 1L of water a month, dont know where it is going, doesnt bother me, never gets hot. Should I investigate further or keep looking? I just want out of a 10MPG truck. He has 4 kids and wants a straight across trade. pishta68@hotmail.com. Im going to make a decision by 7-13 if possible.