pishta

A/C always siphons power off the motor, it takes a certain amount of HP to turn the compressor. I had a 80's Rabbit diesel and the A/C would drop my top speed to 55 MPH! The ECU should raise the idle slightly when the A/C comes on and the fans should come on when the temp rises, I would suspect the fan relay or a sensor somewhere, sorry for the vague answer.

I have seen that and that is the deal of the century on those, but heard their air shocks were junk. There is still the labor charge but Ill deffinantly link to those in the future, You cant buy the bushings for less than 70 a side. Might have to sell one of my digital cameras for a pair of those...and free shipping to US address, nice. There is a review on this manufacturer, they say the arms look to be rebuilt/repainted but who cares for that price.

It was probably the throttle position sensor or TPS out of adjustment, It is sort of a "fly by wire" system that senses the position of the accelerator to properly meter the injector duty cycle. Its an easy adjustment/fix if you know what to do, Ha...I guess they are all easy if you know what to do, eh? Seat belts, no idea. LCD, there is a guy on Ebay that will fix yours for 80 or so, not sell you the LCD for 100 and then have you attempt to solder it in yourself (not recomended unless you are a good solderer) look it up on Ebay. The antenna is 20 bucks on Ebay (isnt Ebay cool?) Gas gauge might be the float in the tank, doubt if it is the guage itself. REgular gas will work, the ECU will compensate for the knocking you MIGHT experience with the lower octane, do you drag it up hills or tow anything, probably wont even notice and youll save 30 cents a gallon. Have you had your timing belt serviced? I deducted 1000 bucks from the buying price when I asked if it had been done with 90K on the odometer, he said no, but the receipts he gave me after all said it was done with the water pump and tensioners at 60K by Lexus, whoo hoo!

good to know. I am unable to edit the title of the thread, but I am now looking for a 90-92 molding. Thanks everybody. How did you get yours off? I know of the clips but how do you replace them, they seem to break off when you remove them and look to be part of the cladding, not replaceable? I know where one is (silver) if it is still there, a yard in So. Cal. Email me pishta68@hotmail.com Mine was stolen off of the car in the middle of the night, apparently someone else was missing their's too...The car still has the clips intact on the body, I believe. I recently found one on ebay, it's burgundy, for about $20. I just ordered it today, I'll have to paint it once it arrives, but the lexus just looks so disheveled without it. OK, good deal, it would have cost me more than that to get in and buy it and time, etc...but it was silver...So the clips are not part of the cladding, good to know becasue I have to remove the fender to pound out a dent and was not sure how to get the cladding back on (there is a fender mount under the cladding) BTW, what paint code is the silver (white over silver scheme) I think the white is 051, but what color code is the silver? I have to repaint the entire cladding and front bumper, looks like the previous owner cleaned it with steel wool!!!

good to know. I am unable to edit the title of the thread, but I am now looking for a 90-92 molding. Thanks everybody. How did you get yours off? I know of the clips but how do you replace them, they seem to break off when you remove them and look to be part of the cladding, not replaceable? I know where one is (silver) if it is still there, a yard in So. Cal. Email me pishta68@hotmail.com

At 500 bucks a side to replace, I would get a second opinion on an upper ball joint causing an alignment issue, AS you know the upper is part of the UCA and that has 2 bushings that isolate it fron the chassis, they can go bad and are far less than a new UCA. Lower BJ's are cheap, easy to replace and the tire rod ends have a far more pronounced effect on an alignment than the Upper ball joints. CLunks are bad, a turnable BJ is not a worn out BJ.

What is the turning force on a properly working P/S system, can you turn effortlessly with one finger like my OLD chrysler Imperial or is there some tension? Mine is somewhere between a firm feel and no assist, barely able to turn with one finger, but no leaks and no howls from belts. Maybe filter?

GReen os OK, red is the long life stuff so you are not going to break antything with the green. GM red coolant is the root of many coolant sludge issues, Toyota might be different formulation? GM master Mechanic friend says ditch the red in my Suburban and go with green, will not have sludge issue.

Hey i'm not only new to this forum, but have also only just bought a 1990 ls400. I took it out for a blast on the motorway last night and stormed along a flat section at 271kmh (167mph) at approx 4200rpm. The only modifications to the car are a full system sports exhaust and induction kit, (and before any doubters hit me with stories of the speedo being out, I have gone alongside my friends 2.0ltr turbo rover at 160 and my speedo was showing 160 too, PS don't try this at home kids, PPS all the above is alledgedly incase any of you are the police). Plus I cant get the car to go over 4500rpm? Does anyone know about removing the limiter if thats what it is, or if it maybe is a problem with the ECT as this doesn't seem to affect the car whether on or off? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 4500 is probably where the torque curve is greatest (350Nm @4400) , it probably cant go any faster considering 155 is supposed to me max on these cars. I know there is a limiter on the cruise control, but 167 is flying!!! and a 2l going 160? You have some good gas over there...All we get is 91 at the corner pump.

Hey i'm not only new to this forum, but have also only just bought a 1990 ls400. I took it out for a blast on the motorway last night and stormed along a flat section at 271kmh (167mph) at approx 4200rpm. The only modifications to the car are a full system sports exhaust and induction kit, (and before any doubters hit me with stories of the speedo being out, I have gone alongside my friends 2.0ltr turbo rover at 160 and my speedo was showing 160 too, PS don't try this at home kids, PPS all the above is alledgedly incase any of you are the police). Plus I cant get the car to go over 4500rpm? Does anyone know about removing the limiter if thats what it is, or if it maybe is a problem with the ECT as this doesn't seem to affect the car whether on or off? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 4500 is probably where the torque curve is greatest, it probably cant go any faster considering 145 is supposed to me max on these cars. I know there is a limiter on the cruise control, but 167 is flying!!! and a 2l going 160? You have some good gas over there...All we get is 91 at the corner pump.

Here's the Lexus repair manual's troubleshooting guide for the suspension. I hope it helps you isolate the problem. I've replaced so many suspension and steering parts on mine that I know how you feel.:cries: Unfortunately it was before I felt confident/comfortable working on my Lexus and so I wasted a lot of money paying someone to do what I could have done all along. Good luck with yours. sa_4_suspension_and_axle_troubleshoot.pdf Thanks. I will look into the trans/motor mount, as it feels like a rotating vibration and I feel it in the controls. Im also wondering about the steering damper or whatever that shock absorber looking thing is under the rack. When I hit a small bump in a turn the wheel kinda jumps. Tie rod ends? Im a DIY'er to the fullest extent, but will swallow my pride and have a indie Lex mechanic look into this along with analignment. He did wonders to my Dads SC400. Oh yeah, My correct spec Kelly tires say 44psi, but the door says 36psi(OEM gumball tires?) who do I go by?

Adds a resistor to the AIS, itll fool the ECU into thinking the air is cooler and itll richen up the mix, that is about all they do. MPG will fall. GO ahead and add one of those cut up coke can "tornado" thingies and find a WRX Si to smoke...

Motor mounts can be checked by this method, 2 people are needed. Start motor and apply heavy brake, rev to 1000 drop into R and have helper watch motor, it should only move about 1/8 inch if at all minus normal torque. Now do D from N the same way. If it really squirms, suspect motor mounts. if they are shot the trans mounts are probably bad too as they are taking all the torque load. CLunking into gear could be a sticking servo or annular piston in the trans, I would get a flush done and pull the negative batt cable for about an hour to reset the trans/ECU memory.

Trust me, it'll do DVD-A... *snicker* OK, well I finally got NERO 7 Ultra, and I tried finding "DVD-A"... If I select "Nero Burning ROM 7" I get a screen which has a lot of optioins, but no "DVD-A..." If I select "Nero Express" I get a screen that says "Jukebox Audio DVD" and when I use this to create a DVD, my GS450h ML system simply ignores the DVD I create. (using DVD-RW). Could you provide step-by-step on how to use NERO 7 for this? I'd really appreciate it... humbly edited....

Im new here too and I bought a 92 LS with under 94K on it. Old mans golf car...anyway: small dent in RF fender, dont know how to remove plastic cladding to get to one bolt without breaking plastic anchors that look to be embedded in plastic and not replaceable (ripped one apart at a junk yard trying to figure out how to do it to pop dent out) I got a bushing somewhere that is metal on metal I think. I get a strong road feel at slow speeds. Trouble is there is about 16 bushings that it might be and they all cost 70-100 a piece. My 96 Breeze is smoother on the road...soft suspension, but the shocks are cheaper than the bushings!!! Seat is too low for my short wife, can you raise the entire seat, not tilt it up? My OLD Plymouth seat track had 2 sets of mounting holes high and low. Trunk is tiny for a large car, rear windows dont roll down flush and they have those rivets on the outside. I dont drive it because I get *BLEEP*ed when I feel that bad bushing. Wheel bearings are 70 bucks, everything that wears on this car is 70 bucks!!! Oh well, it does cruise on the highway. Its my wifes car and she gets mad when I start looking into the suspension to fix it, she doesnt feel anything wrong with it, but I do. Oh yeah, the cassette player on the stereo, nothing but high marks for that sucker! My old tapes never sounded so good! I got some old Bootleg overseas tapes and they sound like CD's!! Ooh, almost forgot the climate control display, its going as well as the rear view mirror LCD.

Got a good rear view mirror, not blacked out or partial black? pishta68@hotmail.com

Oops, my fault. Of course my TSB works for earlier models....

I get a vibration when I drive my Lexus. Its not a clunking suspension type vibration, but one like the tires are overinflated (like Im driving on wooden wheels) or it might be a transmission vibration (bad trans mount?) Or a bad wheel bearing? Im not really up on these cars suspension but I did change the lower ball joints and checked anything I could while I was down there. The UCA's are a tiny bit worn, but it moves just a hair when I pull on it. What should I look for? All the bushings I could see were good and the car has only 92K on it. It irks me to know that my 96 Plymouth Breeze rides better than this car! No clunks over bumps, just an almost grinding vibration while driving, more noticeable when driving slow. I can feel it in the steering wheel as well as the floorboard. Thanks

Check the grounding of the external telescopic antenna. It involves removing the antenna from the inner rear fender and sanding/cleaning the point where it touches the ground plane, or metal fender on the underside. It should be sanded down to metal so you get a good contact. This was on a service bulletin from Lexus that I remember seeing.

Good idea but probably extremely hard to find. I've never seen a 1990 LS400 at the junk yard in my area; only a 1995 GS400 a couple of years ago. My area: Parsippany, New Jersey. Saw a 90 LS400 in my "late model" junkyard annex, front ended no less. Not bad but totally gone through interior wise. Bad fenders and bumper, back glass shattered, interior gutted, engine complete minus MAS, wheels ugly. Upper control arms were tight though and they are having a half price sale this weekend, $54 for 2. So. Cal area. It was my color too....Timing belt changed at 176, 000 MILES!!! that is stretching it....

almost 90 bucks a piece, Kiss my Asss! Ill buy a set of KYB GR-2 shocks before I fix my hood struts, they are the same price!!!

The only difference the 2 filters will be is in the internal capacity and flow rate of the filter. By changing to a larger or smaller filter, you are only changing the capacity of the oiling system and therefore changing the oil capacity when doing an oil change, that is it. there is no over or under filtration, there is just a flow rate and that is probably restricted by the internal passages of the engine and not the oil filter. I would NOT sweat these 2 filters sizes. I would get the correct one in the future though, just for the capacity issue when you are doing an oil change. Muscle cars use the largest filter that will fit, not the correct one and that is just to keep up with the hi flow oil pumps they use. We are using stock pumps and they dont require oversized filters. internally, they may even use the same cartridge, just a larger case.

Looking into doing my 92 and it looks like there are about 30 screws holding the skin on and some are plastic that will be too brittle to remove intact so bank on buying some spares. I hate removing plastic body pieces as they never seem to go back on correctly or securely.

They were "OEM" brand as in "made by OEM" , NOT Toyota, check the box out. Only difference I saw was that the 17mm bolt mating surfaces were faced (machined or ground flat) on the original ball joint and the aftermarket unit were just cast flat. As far as I remember, defective ball joints will make a clunking sound during very tight turns, and i have changed a few of those bad boys! Go in an empty parking lot, turn your wheels all the way to the left,if there is a clunk,then chances are,that your right ball joint needs to be replaced,and viceversa. Also check if the rubber boot is broken, if it is,then chances are,that the ball joint is broken as well. Wait! Let me get this straight....your ball joints were made by "OEM" brand? Uhmm :whistles: WEll, OE might be more correct, but they were not original equipment manufactured

Uh, yes there is. Raise the front tire and attempt to push and pull the top and bottom of the tire. If there is any movement, get a helper to look behind the tire or use a free hand and feel where the play is. It is either the upper control arm ball joint, UCA bushings or lower control arm bushing or lower ball joint. It is a matter of seeing how much is moving. If nothing is moving back there you may have a bad wheel bearing. If there is side to side, it can be tie rods. bottom line is that there should be hardly any movement on a raised tire, maybe some slight bushing flex, but there should be no sharp clunks or metal on metal feel.