GDixon

Well, maseace had it right. After troubleshooting the brake fluid reservoir and finding it OK the parking brake switch was taken on. The molding for the door (bottom) was taken off. It is only held on by clips. Then the kickplate next to the brake pedal was removed. It had a couple of plastic plugs. The lower dash around the air bag was removed. One 10mm bolt on the left, a Phillips head screw hidden behind a pop-out panel on the right side and pull straight out off of several clips and guides. The switch could be seen through a hole left by the dash panel. It had rotated away from an extension on the emergency brake lever so that the switch plunger was being missed by the extension. It was still fairly tight but it was able to be rotated back into the correct position. The one screw that holds the switch on could not be reached to tighten it (45 minutes of frustration) and the top bolt that hold on the whole brake pedal assembly is inaccessible so.......... Some hot glue was used to secure the switch in place and several pieces of Duct tape to also hold things where they should be were used. Everything was put back where it belongs and the BRAKE warning light behaves as designed. RX400h: Thank you for the suggestions about brake replacements. My only concern with aftermarket is that, given my driving tendencies, brake fade is a concern. There are several drilled and slotted rotors available but the research that I've read doesn't support the style as much as one might think. I'm happy with the performance of the OEM brakes, except for what I believe is some heat warping. Bendix will be considered after reading some more reviews on the subject. Thanks to all for helping me solve this problem.

Thanks. It is a pretty tight space under there by the parking brake. I have located a parts diagram and the switch so know what it looks like at least. Getting to it is another thing. The plan of attack may be to try to take out the whole parking brake assembly and deal with it from there. Two or three bolts seem to hold it in place.

Searched everywhere but can't come up with a soluion. 2008 RX350, 60K miles. Instrument panel brake light stays on (BRAKE displayed) and a single beep is emitted only when accelerating at low speed - like from a stop. >Adjusted parking brake per posts on LOC (both nuts are 10mm and need a deep socket). >Checked and topped off the brake fluid reservoir (it was low but not empty). >Repeatedly moved the brake fluid reservoir interior float up and down. >Low brake fluid usually means the pistons for the disc brakes are filling up as the brakes are worn down in my experience. >Checked online to find out about brake wear sensors but the RX 350 apparently doesn't have them. >Re-set the computer by disconnecting the battery for an hour. Questions: 1. Anyone have knowledge of the cause of the brake light being continuously on? 2. Will a brake job solve the issue? (There is the possibility that it could be a faulty switch somewhere.) 3. Any recommendation of a brake pad brand / material if quality trumps cost? 4. Considering replacing the rotors. Brand recommendation? Thanks for any knowledge, suggestions, and replies.

The rain sensor feature is only available on one of the several positions on the stalk. Check your manual for directions.

It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt. Mark Twain

The spare is monitored also in most Lexus vehicles. Check the pressure in the spare tire.

My Lexus 350 battery lasted 6 years. For some reason it went out slowly with lots of warning signs. Anyway, it was replaced with a battery from Costco. Those batteries have been very reliable in all of my vehicles, tractors, and DC powered equipment. If a different, more expensive, battery gives you peace of mind then it is worth the extra cost.

The problem was similar with mine. The passanger window stopped working about six months before the battery needed to be replaced. I have to admit that the switch working "opposite" is a new one that I haven't seen before. It just has to be the computer. It is odd that the situration is worse after the battery was replaced. Re-initalization is worth a try and is the least expensive first thing to look at. Sometime people, me in particular, skip the first simple things to try and go on to the most expensive solution first. Not very brilliant. There is also a thread just updated today that discusses a vaguely similar problem. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/77706-passenger-side-power-window-does-not-work/

I read this topic when it was first posted and saw that you did everything the manual and reason calls for so I did not respond. If the battery had just been replaced then initialization might have been the suspect. But initialization can be lost. The switches working in reverse is a clue to a confused computer. But Halloween is just around the corner so maybe it is haunted. My story is that the passenger window couldn't be controlled from the driver's switches. It worked fine from the passenger's switches. Then the battery was replaced a few months later. The switches were initalized and then the switches all worked as intended. So....try disconnecting the battery once again and leave it unconnected overnight to be sure any residual power has been drained from the computer. Reconnect the battery to reboot the computer and give initalization another try. Since each door has its own motor it is extremely doubtful that both would go bad at the same time.

I suppose you could unhook the battery for 30 minutes or so. That will reset the computer. That is an extreme, but usually successful, solution to computer glitches. After hooking it back up be sure to check the manual to see what accessories have to be reset - like sunroof, windows, radio, etc.

Agree with Scott. Just tap the lock (or unlock) button once.

Yep, its the computer. My RX lost the driver's control over the passenger window. No resetting (window up/down/up) or anything else helped. Then the battery needed replaced. Reset everything per the manual and the function returned.

As unbelievable as it sounds you may just need to reset the car's computer. I had a similar problem. The driver's master switch would raise and lower three windows but not the passenger's window. A difference from your situation is that the passenger's window switch would work. Recently, the battery had to be replaced and the windows initalized. Suddenly, the master switch worked perfectly on all windows. Just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, or so, and then initalize the windows and etc. as outlined in your manual. Hope it works. Oh, and you'll need to reset your radio, seat belt chimes, and seat positions.

Search "mirror tilt" on LOC in various models. Ten pages of results (not every one about mirror tilt, but most). No TSB that I know of but there should be. Yes, my driver's side mirror has the issue. Other search terms might reveal more hits.

Fairly common problem. Other posts on here have addressed it. The usual cause is stripped plastic gears requiring replacement. Hope the car is still under warranty. It is not common for both mirrors to go bad at the same time if that is your car's situation. That may indicate a different solution.

Thank you very much for taking the time to post this helpful topic. The thread will probably will save many people some bucks.

Sounds to me like the mechanic is trying to get his new business off to a roaring start. For that much cash you may want to get a second, or even third, opinion from other sucessful and established mechanics.

One vote for your dad right here. Maybe a write-in. :)

Too late now, but a Lexus or Toyota dealer sell them.

Good for you. Hope something positive comes of the $500.

Long answer...don't even think about it. You may think that it is none of my business but I may be in the other car you center punch from driving distracted. No, I'm not a member of the Safety Police, just a member of the Common Sense Police.

Get an original Lexus RX350 hitch. It comes with the correct wiring harness if you have a towing package. Search the forum for other opinions, installation hints, etc.

If the directions are not in your owner's manual it can't be done by an owner. Still waiting on someone to try it on a new RX with Techstream.

It is not a problem if you are willing to put up with it. Generally, the drain for the housing is put on by a gorilla. It will come off but it may take some doing. I put mine in a vice (carefully since the housing is plastic) and it finally came loose with a 3/8" ratchet wrench. Rather than squeezing it tightly with the vice the housing was clamped in so the "wings" on the housing prevented the piece from rotating in the vice. After that it has not been a problem in subsequent oil filter changes.

BobQ: Good information. Thanks.