smooth1

Yeah, I know, but it's like going to a 7-11 instead of going to the super market. You pay a bit more, but it sure is convenient and faster.

traction control can tell the ECU to lock the drive train temporarily together a differential's output shafts, which makes all the wheels turn together at the same speed, providing torque in case of slippage. It's contolled by and used for the center differential, which is what distributes power between the front and the rear axles. The two most common locking differentials use either a computer-controlled multi-plate clutch or viscous coupling unit to join the shafts. In the multi-plate clutch the car senses tire spin and locks the shafts, you can feel that in the ride when it activates, which most people complain about. And it can cause the tires to spin suddenly when they do lock. In the viscous coupling differentials the shear stress of high shaft speed differences causes a dilitant fluid, ( a fluid that increases in viscosity with shearing force) in the differential to become solid, connecting the two shafts. Some use a gearing to reduce the rotational difference. The third is the Torsen differential, which just allows the output shafts to receive different amounts of torque, but doesn't do much for real usable traction. And of course there is the locking differentials used for off roading, but I don't think we need to cover those. So, the RX uses the multi-plate clutch?Actually, if it does, it is a better system. The VC system has fluid wear issues and leaks are common.

Do you have the nav set for the right region? That's kind of bizzare that it can't find ALOT of addresses.

Sounds to me like you might need a new MAF as the IAT is part of it. Are you sure you reconnected it correctly and firmly? How did you clean the MAF? what did you use? Those elements are very sensative. Did you reinstall it correctly? Do you have any pics so we can take a look?

I use #11088. Just the paint sealant. The One step uses a polish in it that I thought might be a bit harsh for new paint finishes as they shouldn't need any polishes yet. If you have swirl marks and light scratches, then you might want to look at the one step, or use a #2 or #3 polish on it first, then use the plain paint sealant. And I use the carnuba wax stick. #11085. I also love the leather care. #11143. It does a great job, and smells like real leather also. Even the leather car scent stuff they have,(#11150) really smells like leather. I haven't tried the new car scent. And the window cleaner tool,#90247, really works nice too. Overall I like Griot's stuff. And they have been very good at service so far. I don't work for Griot's, and I'm not a product pusher, I just have had a good expreience with them so far. I actually started with the #11750 kit. and bought the rest of the stuff as I learned what I liked.

The ECU is part of the seat, and if I rememebr right, it's a different plug also. But if you were to change the seats to ones that had the ecu, and change the plug, then put the switch in, it might or atleast should work.

Yeah, I like to think of it as Weekend morning therapy. I open the garage, wash the car and center it in the garage, good tunes and start. The Best of Show wax is good stuff. Honestly though, I don't see a difference between that and the regular wax they sell. I think they both looked great. I use the paint sealant, then go over that with the regular wax. Seems to hold up nice. The pads, (orange and red) do a good job. I know they aren't exclusive or anything, but I'm not a pro detailer, and I don't wanna be one. I just want to be able to do a good job on my cars. And this system seems to work out nice.

To answer the question about sleeves, yes, they sleeve the cylinders. And yes, because I'm going full out, we have gone to another make aluminum block. I can't come out and say what motor I'm using, as we don't want anyone really knowing. It's the only weapon left. (Surprise!) LOL!!! And the best weapon to use is the one nobody knows about. I think I referred to the GTE block, and that was my typing faster than my brain thinks. Yes, both the GTE and GE blocks are cast iron, and both can be bored and stroked to a 3.4 liter. I had a BC stroker in my second 2JZGE, but it still didn't pull the way I want it to, so we have since scrapped that plan and I'm going another direction. And as for how much it costs, if your watching your pennies, modding isn't for you. I absolutely agree, if you want power, don't waste your money on modding a 250, just get a 350. It's mostly the ECU and the direct fuel injection system that stops me from being able to do any "reasonable" work to the motor. That and the fact that there isn't anything out there for it. I could have JE make a lower compression piston at 3x's the price and then they have the blue prints to sell everyone else, but why? The truth is, the Is 350 is just not a platform car as the IS 300 was. And even the IS 300 wasn't really a platform car, it just had alot in common with one, and so alot of the parts were already available for it as the Supra had the 2JZGTE already for 10 years.

I don't know, I modified an 03' Ford Explorer with a full internal rework and a Kenny Bell Supercharger. Cranked out 600+ HP and dropped 1/4 miles in the 13's. I had alot of fun in that thing! Do you know how many Mustangs, Evo's, and such I shocked? It's a blast. The way I see it, if you line up an Evo and an Explorer and the Evo wins, everyone says yeah, the Evo is fast. But if the Explorer wins, that's to talk about for weeks!! No one saw that coming! I paid 5 bucks to line up to an LS2 GTO once. click me to see and me

Hey Tango, my block is aluminum and I'm not having any trouble getting 900+ hp out of it. Why do you think that is a power limiting issue for this motor?

I have and use the Griot's orbital buffer. And I have an Obsidian Black IS 350. The buffer is nice. Not too heavy, pretty comfortable to hold, and the speed is adjustable from barely rotating all the way to full speed. And I have no swirl marks. The wax, and paint sealants they have are pretty good as well. Much better than you would find at any automotive store, that's for sure. I've heard some say they Griot's products are too expensive, but I didn't think so. But whatever. I've also used Zaino. I liked that as well. And you don't need a buffer for that process.

Yeah, I've noticed it also, and I also noticed it happens if you slide open the moonroof. It's definately cabin pressure from them. Have you tried opening the pass thru from the trunk to the cabin? I noticed it's alot less, you just have to leave the armrest down in the back seat. No big deal.

railroad

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And then you need the mat to hit off of or you'll need to change the grass to a Bermuda Hybrid. You can get away with an old rug or piece of carpet, but it has to be flat and on something firm also. And then you may want to get the automatic rubber tee so you don't have to continually chase that around. And also you'll need to get the gravity feed ball re-tee machine so you don't wear yourself out or hurt yourself re-teeing everytime. Oh, and you should take a good series of lessons first so you don't just practice hitting the ball incorrectly and just reinforcing a bunch of bad habits. So, let's see, 40 bucks for the net, not bad!

Heres some shots closer up: