smooth1

I have someone with an OEM air box for sale : Air box for sale But you'll need to hurry.

Well, to really be able to help, I need to see what exactly is missing. Can you take a picture of it and post it? If I could see what you have now, I could tell you how to go about correcting it. I don't know how much air ducting your missing, and what kind of set up is on it now.

If you want to see what red looks like you can check out my thread: Modifying an IS 300 Chronicles of a Dream Ride

I used Power Slot, slotted discs. They work great and don't cost an arm and a leg. If you want, go to Modifying an IS 300, Chronicles of a Dream Ride. It's a sticky at the top of this forum, on the 3rd page I think, you'll see the set I installed on mine.

So what do you instead of the air box?

$$$$$

I guess so! Heres the Lexus service sheets on the brake job: And the full TAS case number is 081490290. Looks like it would have cost me $179.95 if it was not covered.

It sounds to me like the car is going in and out of safe mode as the cel is coming up. It's not a problem, it's the car reacting and protecting itself. Keep in mind, the ECU is not a warning center, it's a logging computer. It logs what is going on in the motor. If a certian issue, say a knock occurs, it simplyy logs the event. If it happens XX times in a short amount of time, then it sends up the cel to say there is a problem that keeps occuring here. If the knock exceeds some preprogrammed peramters, then it can send the car into what is called the safe mode, or limp mode. This mode drastically reduces output and limits RPM's to try and protect the motor from further damage. You may have another bad ECU.

Just use an air nozzle off the air compressor first. A fully oiled air filter would contain, maybe 2 ounces of oil. I've heard alot about the oil collecting on an MAF/IAT, but I have never seen it happen, or held an MAF that was ruined by filter oil. And I have worked on more cars than I can even think to count. I would think the only way is if the person really over oiled the filter, to the point it was ridiculous, and hence, really thier own fault. I've had after market performance filters on tons of cars, motorcycles, boats, you name it. And I have never had an issue with any of them. Again, I'm not refering to the performance gain claims by the manufactures of after market filters. I can only tell you that after racing engines for hours at thier limits using these performance air filters, we have never had an issue relating to the use of them. And I have never had an issue with any of them in my personal cars. And if when I clean and reoil mine the third time, it has paid for itself.

My point exactly. IF owners would maintain their filters as you described then I would venture a guess that a clean, well oiled K & N filter does a very nice job. However, I wonder what its filtration capabilities are six months down the road? How many owners will really pop the hood, pull the filter, clean it, re-oil it and install it? Oth, a paper filter takes, what, ten minutes to change? Too much filtration? How is that possible? As I understand it, one of the major wear items on engines is internal wear. If you can reduce that wear by proper filtration, then why not do the best. I remember in my college lab days we had paper filters that would filter liquids down to the single digit micron level. I wonder, though, how well the engine would breathe then. I do think that there is an optimum level of filtration. I never said too much filtration, I said at point does it stop mattering? I guess my real point is, how can anyone argue that a stock air filter is bad, good, or the best? I've never seen any real data on "stock" air filters. I know they perform thier function, but nobody can say at what level it performs too! And to reinforce that point, the auto mfgrs. don't have any standards set for it either. Which leads me to beleive that all air filters are acceptable? Capable? And that this issue is not an important issue to the mfgr. so long as it is replaced or cleaned. I have never seen an auto mfgr. say or write " Intake air has to be XX clean with less than XX air flow restrictions. The auto industry made it a point to establish oil standards, and detergent levels. And everything else that goes into your engine is rated, controlled, recommended, and all that. But whenever it comes to the air filter, it allways says " clean or replace." Not "clean or replace with 5011 tested and approved air filter." And to answer your statement of a paper filter that can filter liquids to single digit micron levels. Let's take that as an example. Would an engine last or perform any longer or better than a filter that only went to say 50 microns, and lets say that air restrictions are similar, but at 200 microns, the air restiction is so much less, that the engine performance and fuel economy is so much greater. Does it effect the life of the engine? So, until I can see some data, I think K&N and some of the other performance air filters have a long enouph track record, tons of testing, and product developement, that I can see. That should account for something.

Welcome to the LOC! And I thought the slot in the visor was designed to make new owners ask what are those for?

They are including them. I have a 2008 IS 350 and they did the TSB brake pad change at my Lexus dealership without question.

I would take all those numbers as general info. Not quite as precise as they would like you to beleive. The issue with those numbers is first, remember it's a survey, not scientific facts, and remeber, every tire acts differently under different chassis, weight distribution, and suspension set ups. To say any 1 tire is superoir to another on any given car in all circumstances is foolish as every car has a different set up. The IS 300 is a heavier car at around 3200 lbs. and the weight distribution is 54/46 front to rear. So, in my opinion, I tend to like a stiffer sidewall tire which will help keep the front end up more responsive in turns and braking. Also the tire tends to react quicker and settle smoother, staying in contact with the road surface better. Which would make the g-force sport a much better tire than any all season tire. And the g-force has a tread life of 340, which means it should also last a descent amount of time. I'm not a big BFGoodrich fan or anything. I actually like the Michelin Pilot Sport PS2, but those are $235.00 retail for each tire. You said you wanted to be under $150.00 for each tire. In that price range, and considering your driving habits or needs, I would look more at a performance tire than an all season tire. You will be amazed at the difference in handling and turn in response.

That's well put. Which is why I think you, rjt65, may need a pro to address your swirl mark issue.

Those are good tires. But my question is if you only drive the car occasionally, then why get all season tires? If you only need good wet and dry traction, and not snow, then I would go with a higher performance tire like the Michelin Pilots, or if you wanted to save some money, the BF Goodrich g-force sport is a good tire for like $110.00 bucks each. and still better than an all season tire.

rjt65, I'm not a professional detailer. Nor do I play one on TV. I like to think of myself as well versed in taking care of the paint on my cars, but I would do exactly what I would advise you to do. Ask a ton of questions and get as many answers as you can from as many different knowledgeable people as you can bare to ask. Then make the decision for yourself on what steps need to be taken, and who you trust. Maybe take it to some shops and show them the issue and see what they have to say. Maybe talk to your insurance company and see if you can have the car wash help pay for it? All of it? Seems kind of difficult and a huge hassle I know, but what happend to you really irks me, as they will get away with it over and over. I don't understand how they can deny your issue. HAve you talked to them?

Fusion/Fision

Actually, it's the MIG SU 37 with the new RD 33 MK Thrust Vector technology. And yes, they are way cool! The angle of propulsion is changable thru different channels to allow the new ultimate in manouverability. I read about it a few years ago when they were just starteing to produce them. I was stunned !! the alien spacecraft we have been studying is starting to pay off!!

There was alot of stuff listed in there that I thought was going too far. But I know that some people like to feel as if they have done the most they can for the car they drive. So I try not to say too much. If you really want to save alot, just have them do the tranny flush, differential, Power steering, cooling system and brake fluid. But the cooling system should be fine also. Even if you just drained it at home and refilled it would be more than sufficient so long as you use the correct coolant and distilled water everything else on the list is a visual inspection and adjust if needed. The oil change, air filter, ac filter, and so on, you can have done anytime, and do it yourself. The spark plugs maaaayyybeeeeeee need to be replaced. But if they are iridium, you should be fine as lenore pointed out.

You can buy a JDM Altezza engine cover. I believe they just have the Toyota emblem on it, and not the Lexus one. I guess you could just pop the L off, but I haven't tried that or seen anyone else do it that way. I know they make carbon Fiber covers, and I have seen alot of people just paint the cover to match whatever color scheme they chose. That looks nice also.

Yes, you probably will have to bypass the amp.

You would need the Altezza badge, drop the center Lexus emblem and replace it with a Toyota emblem, and take Lexus off the other side. On the front, you would need to replace the grill with an Altezza grill. For it all to be legit, I would stay JDM. It's not easy to track them down. Don't forget, you would also have to change the engine cover, and the emblem on the steering wheel. :)

Call a Toyota service center and get a quote from there.

There is a TSB out on the dusty brake pad issue. You don't have to spend any money on it. Brake Pad TSIB