smooth1

I'm on that side, just bit further south is all. LOL!!!

Theres a thread in the general discussions about this with links to sites that rate them and the whole bit. I like the 9500. Paid more for the blue display too!!

Yeah, it's a little trickyer than it looks. Open the trunk and remove the liner on the trunk lid. If you look from the side of the trunk, you will see 2 bolts that hold the trim piece on the other side. Remove those. Then you'll need to loosen the trunk key lock so the trim releases. Once you have that, then you can pop the clear lense cover off and replace the lights. ( I used 6 bulb hyper white LED's, Looks great!) Then put it all back together and your done.

Heres a link to removing the radio. One more tip they don't give ya is to tape off the black plastic trim along each side of the radio first. It scratches really easy and is very noticable. http://my.is/forums/2997488-post18.html

Yeah, sisnce your not getting a P0430 as well, it's probly just a bad sensor. It's off the 3 way catalyst on your header. I would replace both since your there. It's easy enouph.

tell me about it!!!! 70 cars?!!! And that is nobodies fault you know? They said it was like hitting a wall of blindness. You just react and hit the brakes. Imagine if you were standing there how long you would have just kept hearing the impacts of metal and glass over and over again!!! New-----> beginning

Uranium

Plutonium

Powerslot makes a good rotor for low price. You don't have to get slotted, but they are nice.

Kinda depends on your hp goals. And on stock internals, I wouldn't go over 8 psi. MAybe 10 if you replace the head gaskets. And for the money your gonna spend, you could buy a 1JZ with twin turbos on it and come out with more hp in the end, and have a spare motor as a back up. I'm seeing a ton of 1JZ swaps at our meets. Some guys are upgrading the turbos, and going with a front mount intercooler. Rex bought a 1JZ motor, with a 5 speed tranny, ECU, water pump, oil pump, and AC for 1300 bucks. But if you like your V8, then I would talk to Jibby about it. He's running NA with headers, exhaust, and a 100 shot nitrous system. He has a thread here, and will help with any questions you have. Just tell him Smooth sent ya... ;)

No really Bartkat, get to the point... LOL!!!!

If you have changed brakes before, it's simple. I'm sure you won't have any trouble.

well, rbyoung, I found a couple of sites that have the paddle shift kits available. I'm looking into the IS 300 application specifically, but they coming. Might wanna wait a bit to see and make sure they do all design and engineering R&D first.

well, it's definately your ballast. the moisture is starting to get to it. Try this first. Put your highbeams on while driving during the day and try to keep them on as long as possible until the inside dries out real well. HID doesn't produce enouph heat to do anything. Once you have it dry in there, see if you still have the flickering issue. If you do, then you'll have to replace the ballast, and when you do, don't try to seal it, that won't help. Instead, somewhere along the bottm and top drill a small hole to help vent the headlight better. You'll have better luck doing that. Also, if after you dry the headlight out and you can see water spots and crud, and want to open the headlight and clean it I can show you how to do that also.

You might have a pop-up blocker or something, I just clicked on it and it worked fine.

Are you talking about a 1JZ swap or just slapping a turbo on the motor you have?

Hahaha,,,,,batteries

Well, I bought a new 2JZ block, and all of this: Carillo rods with ARP 220,000 PSI rod bolts JE 86.5mm forged 8.5 to 1 pistons Ductile iron plasma top rings, tapered second ring, low tension oil rings 9310 nickel carbon steel alloy wrist pins Teflon buttons Ferrea valve springs, seats, retainers, locks, and +1mm valves HKS 1.2mm head gasket ARP L19 head studs TT oil pump 750 cc fuel injectors Unorthodox Racing Cam gear set Unorthodox Racing Pulley set HKS High Power timing belt I should have it by the end of next week. Maybe a few stragglers to come in afterwards. So, figure once I get it, and then building the motor, and then doing the swap, should be about 2-3 months for the final stage. ( I'm not in any rush, I want to take my time and make sure everything is done right and all the tolerances are exact.) I also want to do some engine dress up. Oh, I almost forgot, I'm adding a 02/Meth system also. Man, this is going to be fun!!!!

Neo Classic

Modern Art

wow, man, to be honest, the boards aren't the place to determine your issue. there could be a slew of diagonstic and check points to go over. And if your asking me how to check for spark, then this could be a really long post. I suggest you get someone with enouph mechanical experience under the hood to help you in person. It could be everything from timing, to spark issues, to throttle body, to vacuume hoses to all kinds of things.

Did they have coils on in 92?

Yeah, the ECU has definatley active safe mode on right now.

the problem I generally see with the IAC is when your are cruising at speed, then slow down to stop and the car will just die. That is what would lead me to think the IAC valve. In this case they talk about having an acceleration problem, that and the Lean condition cel would lead me to beleive it's a fuel injector issue, or fuel pressure related problem. If they had no issues and had the cel, I would think it was a faulty sensor, and if the car had idle issues and trouble at most speeds, then I would think it was an air intake issue, or PCV piping issue. What do you think?

Are you getting spark? It's a 91? What else have you done to the car? What propblem were you having with it before that led you to replace the fuel pump? Does it idle ok, and then die if you go over 2k rpm? or does it just wanna start and then die?