Bandit

There is not much you can do if the display is leaking, you will see it creep up the screen. The LS guys have someone that will replace the screens for a fee, I contacted this guy and he doesn't feel there is enough demand to source a screen for the SC guys. He offered to order 100 for me for $8,000 and I sell them, no thanks. This may be an option for a Group Buy. There are more of us out there than most people realize. The problem is getting us all together so our numbers count. The only other option is find one from a Breaker that is fully functioning.

It might be as simple as bad fuel. Do you fuel up at the same station? Have you tried some Fuel system/injector cleaner? If you are picking up trash in your fuel, you may be clogging your fuel filter. I purchased my 93 SC400 from my mother-in-law and the first thing I did was run some fuel system/injector cleaner. There was a noticeable difference in throttle response. I have a new fuel filter to install, but I am waiting to determine the best way to replace it without the massive fuel leak that everyone seems to experience when they change the filter. Hey, I'm having the rear main seal replaced next Monday, I'll have my mechanic replace the filter while he has it on the rack.

I've seen O2 Sensors at Auto Zone. They may be able to order one for your SC400. Next, you will need to read the diagnostic error to determine which of the 5 O2 sensors is bad. My Check Engine light would come on and the diagnostics indicated it was O2 sensor #2. The light then went off the next day, so I haven't fooled with it. I have a '93 SC400 with 183,000 miles. I have had no sensor fail and I do not have Trac Control. It is really not necessary for the SC400 unless you drive in snow and ice. Mine stays in the garage during bad weather. To change your O2 sensor, you will need a special socket. They are listed quite often on ebay or if you know the proper size, you can save 4-5 bucks through JC Whitney. I purchased mine on ebay for a total of about $15.00. Be sure and soak it for a period of time with WD-40 or some penetrating lubricant as they tend to seize up from all the heat. I periodically spray all my O2 sensors, so if I ever need to change one, it is more likely to free up. Hope this info helps!

The 93 SC400 goes into the shop Monday to have the Rear Main Seal replaced. The seal cost $36.00 including shipping from a Lexus Dealer. This is a very large diameter seal. My mechanic is charging me $250 to replace it. I'll let all know how it goes. I determined that my seal was leaking when it only leaks after an oil change. When the oil level is high, it is up to the level of the seal and it pours out. Once the level drops below the level of the seal, it seeps out. I hope my diagnostic is correct, we'll see.

Try Collinite, you will be impressed. I've used Meguire's for years and I've just been converted to Collinite. Check some of the other posts on Collinite.

I had been using Mequires, just did the hood and top (SC400) with Collinite. Amazing finish and the shine looks even deeper (Pearl White). The pearl seems to pop out even more. I'll use it on the SC430 next. What about some of their other products. They seem to have several, any recommendations?

I purchased a tube of Scratch X and was not real impressed with the results. but I will try several applications as you guys suggested. What I was impressed with is: I have some wiper scratches on my windshields, so I gave it a try. Amazing, I can hardly see the scratches. It has made the scratches almost disappear. Give it a try and see the results. I had been contemplating replacing the windshields as the car is in great shape, accept for the marks on the glass. This stuff just saved me approx. $600.00. Thanks Meguires!

All you owners of the pre remote comfirmation door locks may appreciate this modification. It is hard to tell when the doors lock and unlock because you have to listen for the mechanical click of the door locks. I am in the process of wiring in some Piezo Buzzers so that I know when the doors lock and unlock. I am using two different sound buzzers so that I can tell the difference. The components are cheap, Radio Shack, and it should be quite easy to fit. I will document with photos and instructions if anyone is interested.

To the best of my knowledge ALL SC300 and SC400 are non-interference engines.

They have not been able to keep the SC430 in the Showrooms, so I guess until the SC430 sales fall off, they will not offera SC330.

I haven't heard of a $20 chip, but many of the ambiguous HP increases that you see on Ebay are scams. So foul the MAF sensors and some only foul the ECU to keep your car in Performance mod or keeps your transmission out of OD. There may be some members that have tried some of these and I am interest in hearing anyones experiences as well.

A compression test is fairly easy to do. The tough part is removing the covers to get to the Spark Plugs if you have not done this before. The other thing that you must do is use a remote starter attached to your starter so that the vehicle does not start when you are turning it over and it also prevents the fuel system from injecting fuel into the cylinders while doing the test. It may also be a good time to do a leak down test at the same time.

;) This may not be the right place for this and it may be a little nitpicky, but there are alot of posters that seem to like to copy quotes into their posts. It's great when a reply is deep in the thread and you copy a short excerpt of someones post to make your point. But, when you are the first reply, why Quote the complete post from the entry above your's into your post? It's a little redundant and as more and more people do this, it makes the threads very long. It makes for alot of scrolling as well. Just a thought to make you go "WHUMMMM"!

Still not convinced SW03? Try the #00 Steel Wool on the left tip and a new SOS pad on the right tip. Let us know your findings!

If the tires are the same width, you can still rotate front to rear, just not cross corner. Most of the wear is caused by the change in direct, camber and caster of the front steering. Unless, you like to do smoking burnouts or slides. But, you can cross corner rotate by unmounting the tires and remounting them to the appropriate wheel. Just some thoughts!

:( I'm afraid you have more problems than just bad plugs. If your old plugs had oil residue, you may consider have a compression test done. It sounds as if you have excessive ring, cylinder or piston wear. There should be no oil on your plugs. Black dull carbon is another issue, but wet oil is not good. It's better to find it now than after the engine lets loose. :whistles:

It is a very fine micro abrasive. I would not try it on anything that needs to stay transparent. It may work fine as a finely step on a surface that you are polishing out with a polishing compound or buffing tool. I wouldn't use it on your instrument panel.

Check with your insurance company, they may have a good hail damaged car that you can buy cheap, drive this when you need that little extra Go!

Exactly, I've seen this material used in packing material. I tried to find a piece of it to see if it was the same, no luck. But, it is an amazing piece of material. It may help to eliminate the goo on the dash. I know it does wonders on grime on leather and cleaning the grime off of vinyl. Try it and let us know what you think!

From the Drivers Seat, there is one located on the left front side of the motor and one on the right top center of the motor. Each coil fires two plugs on each side of the engine. So if one goes out, you are not a 2Liter 4 cylinder. IF you pull the spark plug covers, then you can gain access to the Distributors. You can start the engine and start pulling plug wires and see if there are cyclinders that are not firing.

The problem with Ignition Coils is that even though they test good through the resistance test, they can still go out at any time. I was driving home from work, a new Ford Taurus tried to race me, not a chance. The performance was great as always. Then, two miles down the road, I stop and make a turn, BAM, I now am now a disgruntled owner of a 4 Cylinder SC400. Since the coil is outside the Diagnostic Loop of the ECU, there is no warning and no ECU code as to what the problem is. The ECU thought the engine was running fine. Through some trouble-shooting I determined that the first course of action was to replace the coil. Luckily, that was all it took. I will now replace the other coil and keep the used coil as a spare. I will also replace the ignition wire with a set from Bosch.

There are alot of looks and no replys. Doesn't anyone have any info on this?

There is no detergent in the Magic Eraser. It is more like a micro abrasive that will contour to the surface that you are cleaning. The water serves as a lubricant and a means to carry the soil away. It slowly degrades as you use it. Just don't bear down hard, start light and increase the pressure until you see and feel the results you want. It will clean the vinyl to as new condition and it will do wonders for the leather. Just be prepared to condition the leather with Lexol or some other conditioner as soon as it drys.

One other comment, if Carrie has used Acetone to cut the film and it did not work, there is NO chemical, not Simple Green or any other wonder chenical that will cut this film. Acetone will peal the paint right off your car. This requires an abrasive material that will remove the film without scratching the glass.

I've used soapy SOS pads for years. You need a very light touch. I am not saying bear down on the pad. The Soap in an SOS pad is much slicker than you can get with soapy water. After soaking the SOS pad in water, squeeze it between your fingertips several tip and it will produce a thick soapy texture that makes the pad slide very easily over the glass. With a very light touch, it will remove any and all buildup on the class. I've uses it for years on windshields, real chrome bumpers. Trust me, it works!