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TouringGS

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  • Lexus Model
    1995 GS300

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  1. I believe that situation is covered by most insurance company policies with no deductible fee. Try and contact your insurance company and explain the situation.
  2. Looks like I'll be giving these products a try. Is the Nxt Tech Wax similar to their original polymer sealant? Thanks for sharing, and what a transformation on that car.
  3. The wood is clearcoated, much like a car's exterior paint. I remove debris from the wood with a can of compressed air, then use mother's quick detail spray on it as an initial wipe down, follow that with meguiar's scratch X, and finalize with a wax. I do this about once a month, and just dust it periodically.
  4. I purchased cross-drilled and slotted rotors for my GS from a company named irotors. You can take a look at them at irotors.com. They gave me a very good price for all 4 rotors and pads. The pads they carry are rotora axxis brand, which in my opinion are one of the best on the market. Another option would be to check ebay. You can get even better deals there, although be sure to buy from someone with positive feedback, and a good history. That way, you can be sure that you'll recieve what you pay for, and in the condition advertised. Look for a seller that stands behind their item with a warranty. Good luck.
  5. You could sand down the area well to remove the rust and smooth it out, and paint it with high temp paint. Its fairly inexpensive material-wise, but if you opt to have someone else do the work for you, labor might be more than the materials. Perhaps a member in the California area you're from will recommend someone. Good luck.
  6. If your paint is in exceptional conditions (little to no swirls, zero oxidation, no hairline scratches etc) then by all means do save time and just use the clay. Although, if your car is in need of claying then it is highly likely that your paint has other imperfections that the clay will not remove. As far as I know, no clay bar that I've used ever removed swirls or fine scratches from the car. I always had to follow the clay procedure with a heavy duty paint cleaner. Just in my experience, though. The only way to know for sure is, after you clay the car inspect it thoroughly under good lighting. If there are any swirls or scratches, hit it with a heavy duty abrasive cleaner polish.
  7. Yes. Claying removes foreign contaminants that you can actually feel or grab. The paint cleansing products remove swirls, oxidation, fine scratches etc. that the clay will not remove.
  8. Should look something like the image I attatched....
  9. Like TurboGS300 said, turn the bulb to unlock it after you've unplugged it. The bulb gets secured by these "teeth" on the edge of it.
  10. I see under your username that you have a 1st generation GS... For the 1st gen GS, when you open your hood and look at the top of the headlights, you should see a black plastic cover held in place by 3 screws : 2 on top, one on the inner side. Remove this cover, and after doing so you should be able to see the harness going to the headlight housing. The center bulb is your lowbeam, and the one closest to the center of the car is your high beam. Unplug the harness from the bulb by pressing the release clip (feel around for it). Pull out old bulb after harness is unplugged, replace with the new one. Secure it in place, and plug the harness back in.
  11. I've been a fan of the Scratch X ever since I first tried it (about 8 containers ago). If you have trouble removing certain paint damage/defects, you could try several applications. If you're still having trouble, the damage might be too severe for the scratch X to remove. Scratch X is fantastic, though. Worth more than it costs, in my opinion.
  12. King Phill, SW03ES's recommendation of the Meguiar's #9 sounds like a good idea. I had the same issue with the wood in my GS, but what I tried was Meguiar's scratch X over it. Then I topped it off with a wax. Came out really well, and as of yet I haven't had to do anything to the wood other than some dusting, periodically. I'd give that a try. Good luck.
  13. Sounds good, I'll be applying it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it turns out. Also, since you said Meguiar's products are interchangeable I was thinking of topping the No. 20 with the Meguiar's paste wax I have. Good idea? Thanks, SW.
  14. Anyone that has used Meguiar's No. 20 polymer sealant, what was your experience like with it? How good was its protection ability, and how long did it last? I've got about a third of a bottle of the stuff here, and was thinking of giving it a try.
  15. I have a Touring edition GS, and these came with a "Touring" emblem on the rear right side of the car. My problem is that I bought the car with gold emblems, but I rather have them chrome. Since the emblem was discontinued, and I have not had any luck finding it elsewhere I was wondering if there is a way to re-chrome it. I'm thinking you could strip the emblem down to the bare metal, and chrome it. Although, I don't think the results will look like the factory chrome emblems do. Anyone with knowledge or experience on this I'd appreciate your suggestions. Thanks.
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