KBRX330

The RX330's do drive different and my wife noticed it right away. We have an AWD but it feels like FWD when I drive it. That said..she got used to it in short order and now it's the pass down car at 140k to the teenager as I bought the wife a new ES350 that she really likes. The ES still has some FWD steer and feel as I drive a Yukon but the RX did the crossover job it was intended to. We have had a Mazda MPV (total lemon traded at 21,000 miles) then 2 Chrysler T&C Mini Vans then several of the old style Dodge Durangos. Then the RX. My wife liked the way the Durangos drove best but by far the RX was the best way to transition out of an SUV into a car again without too much pain. As for station wagons...I offered to get her a BMW, Mercedes, Audi wagon....."absolutely not....station wagons are for old people" was the response.

Once you get the old rotors off clean the hub completely and coat with permatex synthetic brake lubricant (green) and you won't have this issue again. When relining coat the back of the pads with the same lubricant to eliminate pad noise. Try rockauto.com for some decent prices on parts. FWIW I just did a complete brake job on my rx330 with Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors & ceramic pads. Excellent parts. DO be sure to bed new pads in by doing 25 or 30 30mph to 5mph slow downs with 1 mile of driving in between each slowdown. New rotors should be cleaned with brakekleen prior to install.

I am getting 23-29 city-hwy using regular 87 & midgrade 89 octane. Mileage average is 25 mpg.

I will switch this ES to Pennzoil Platinum synthetic at 10,000 miles after I get my dealer "freebie" 5k service. But I will stick with a 5000 interval. I buy syn oils in big quantities when Advance Auto has the BOGO sales here so a synthetic oil change costs me about $22. So at 47,000 miles my cost for 9 oil changes will be $198. If I went to my dealer my cost would be $1,233.00. for conventional "Lexus" oil which is Mobilclean 5000 that you can buy at Walmart for 8.97/4qt jug. So in the 150k life of this vehicle I will save myself about $3,000.00 on oil service. Which is enough to replace the tires 3 times and service the transmission and cooling system and replace the brakes twice for the 150,000 miles. Doing your own service is not for everyone. I just happen to have all the tools as one of my hobbies is working on my Harley Davidson. Plus I had a real bad experience with one of my trucks having some idiot change my oil and strip the oil pan bolt and nearly lost the engine. Since I have 2 Lexus cars & a GMC Denali, SeaRay twin engine & Harley in my fleet one fleet oil change takes 39 quarts of oil and 6 oil filters. If I had respective dealers do all of them one oil service would cost me about $610.00. Add in all the time running back & forth to the dealer and it becomes a part time job.

I use a fluid extractor to suck out the fluid in the reservoir every oil change. It takes DexronIII or T-IV whichever half full bottle I happen to have sitting around. After several drain/fills and running the car in between the fluid is bright red and the steering is fine. I do this on all my vehicles. Using a fluid extractor eliminates unbolting or disconnecting any lines and having to deal with any fluid leaks. Way easy and the fluid in the system really never gets bad to begin with.

Pull the dipstick.In 1000 miles the oil should still be clean.

Note: The oil filter wrench I had for my Honda CRV fits perfectly on this housing.

True Gary....but you missed ONE major point.....his wife fell in love with it! AND we know the old saying " If Momma ain't happy....aint nobody happy" :D So if he wants to pack a few items in while the kiddies are tots he will avoid trading the mini-van for an RX in 24-36 months after the wifey complains how much she hates driving a mini-van. JMHO ;) BTW, if she loves it she will make all the stuff she needs to fit. After all...she is the one who has to struggle....so I vote for the RX330......trust me on this one. You won't get the utility of the mini van....but you won't be sleeping on the couch either....make the dealer put it in your garage when she is not home with that big red ribbon tied around it so when she opens the door she see it. Then get a her a vanity plate and take her oput to dinner. You will be KING for a month!

Our 2004 RX330 has been the daily "Mom's Taxi" for a family of 5 (3 daughters) of which 2 are figure skaters so for 2 small ones it will be more than fine as the rear hatch works great for school backpacks, skating bags, field hockey gear, soccer gear, groceries, tennis gear, etc etc. The center arm rest folds away for the 5th passenger with no problem. It has 142,000 miles now so it is well tested and proven to be sporty/luxury enough for my wife and enough of an SUV for the kiddies as well.

I have an 04 RX330 with 142000 miles on it. A couple of things to consider. 1. You will need the timing belt/water pump at 90,000 miles 2. Check the transmission fluid and see if it smells burnt. If it does don't buy it. 3. There should be a warranty extension to 7 years 90k on the radiator (mine went at 89k) 4. There is a warranty extension on the back up camera (if it has one) 5. There was a recall on the brake booster 6. Look at the brake fluid in the master cylinder. If it is very dark it may have never been flushed. 7. Check the vin number if it starts with a 2 it is a Canadian made RX if it starts with a J it was made in Japan. The Japan made ones will have easier to get cheaper brake rotors. The canadian made ones have front rotors only made by Brembo (factory replacements) or Raybestos. and will cost you a few extra bucks. ( the brembos are $170 each) 8. Check the boots on the drive shafts 9. If the battery hasn't been replaced it will need one soon. 10. If you buy it since it is an AWD make sure you service the transfer case & rear differential immediately. Both take 80w90 GL5 gear oil and need to be done no later than 80,000 miles. 11. check the struts for leaks. Go to a Lexus dealer and see how much they will charge you to go over the car & check the vin number and then run a carfax as suggested by others.

FWIW: I just did my 1000 mile break-in oil change. Cost $19.50. Very easy to do yourself.

Just did the 1000 mile break-in oil change on my ES350. Very easy for the DIY'er Parts: Toyota 04152-YZZA1 Filter kit Toyota 90430-12031 drain bolt gasket 7 quarts 5w30 SL/SM oil ( takes 6.4 qts with filter change) Tools: 14MM box end wrench 3/8 ratchet with 4" extension 65-67MM oil filter wrench 1-wooden toothpick (to remove o-rings DO NOT use a metal tool) Floor Jack Oil catch pan 6" piece of old 1/2" garden hose 1. Raise car about 5-6 inches find oil drain plug on oil pan and remove w/14MM wrench draining oil into catch pan. 2. Reinstall oil drain plug with new gasket (be sure to remove old gasket as it will stick to the pan drain hole, tighten plug. 3. At front RH of car underneath you will see a round aluminum oil filter housing. It is gray and has an indent for the 3/8 drive extension. Insert extension into housing and remove oil housing cap. (a small amount of oil will come out). 4. If the small black o-ring comes off with the cap put it back on as it will seal the draiining of the filter 5. Take small plastic drain insert from filter kit and insert the long end into the piece of garden hose. 6. Insert the pronged end of the plastic drain insert into the filter housing making sure to direct the hose into catch pan. The oil filter will now drain. 7. Remove plastic drian insert when filter is drained. (twist and pull out) 8. Using 65MM oil filter wrench unscrew filter housing and remove. Remove used filter element. 9. Wipe clean and replace small o-ring with new small o-ring and reinstall cap on housing (be sure to oil new o-ring so it seals correctly). Tighten cap with 3/8 ratchet extension. 10. Remove large o-ring from filter housing and re-install new large o-ring from filter kit ( be sure to oil new o-ring). NOTE: use the wood toothpick to remove the o-rings because if you scratch the aluminum housing it will leak. 11. Place new filter element in housing and push all the way in. 12. Wipe housing cavity (on the engine) clean and re-install filter housing by hand. Be sure not to dislodge o-ring. Turn in tight all the way by hand and apply light force with filter wrench (remember you are not tightening another 1/4 turn like a conventional filter) Be careful not to cross thread housing into cavity. 13. Add 6.4 quarts of 5w30 oil 14. Wipe everything clean 15. Start car and allow to run for 5 minutes. Check drain bolt & filter housing for leaks. 16. Re-set maintenance reminder. 17. Shut car off, wait a few minutes and check oil level. Note: If you rotate your tires every 5000 miles like I do the torque spec for the lug nuts is 76ft lbs.

Just an afterthought. Replace your PCV valve when you get a chance. It only takes 5 minutes and with the RX300 sludge issue it was partially blamed on the PCV system being too small for the engine displacement. So you want it working at it's full capacity.

Both my RX and ES do that. It is programmed into the ECM as said before. Normal. From the service manual: The Electronic Throttle Control System (ETCS) controls the engine idling speed. The ETCS operates the throttle actuator to open and close the throttle valve, and adjusts the intake air amount to achieve the target idling speed. In addition, the ECM retards the ignition timing and the ETCS increases the intake air amount to quickly increase the catalyst temperature at cold start to reduce emissions. However if you are getting engine knock at cold start you may want to take it in and have them check your AICV (air intake control valve) and your knock sensor. You may also consider changing gasoline brands or octane rating. I doubt you have piston slap.

It is not supposed to do that. Take it to the dealer.

If you talk to the Lexus dealers they are "lifetime fill" if you talk to the Toyota dealers they flush them with a B&G machine. I'll get mine done at 30-40k intervals because I'll drive this car 150,000 miles and always do that. 3 flushes will cost me about $600 over the life of the car.

I would want these done at 30k: • Change engine oil • Replace wiper inserts • Replace AC filter • Replace engine air filter • Replace brake fluid Drain & refill transmission fluid • Rotate and balance tires • Reset service reminder • Inspect the following: • Ball joints and dust covers • Brake pads and rotors • Drive shaft boots • Nuts and bolts on chassis (retorque) • Steering linkages • Brake lines and hoses • Exhaust pipes and mountings • Rack and pinion assembly • Road test All can be done at a Toyota dealer if less expensive as the ES350 shares the same drivetrain with the Camry & Avalon. Now some will say the trans drain/fill is overkill but I do mine at 30k. If you don't then you should have a complete fluid exchange or flush at 60k which is the severe service requirement.

I was paging through the Toyota 2GR-FE service manual and notice that the procedure for water pump replacment requires removal of the engine and transaxle assembly to get to it (11.0 hours labor). Has anyone had a waterpump go bad and require this or is there another procedure used out there? This would make a good case for the extended warranty. 2GR-FE COOLING – WATER PUMP REMOVAL 1. REMOVE ENGINE ASSEMBLY AND TRANSAXLE :o :o :o :o :o HINT: See page EM-23 2. SECURE ENGINE STAND HINT: See page EM-30 3. REMOVE NO. 1 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET FRONT LH (See page EM-35) 4. REMOVE NO. 2 IDLER PULLEY SUB-ASSEMBLY (a) Remove the 2 bolts, 2 idler pulley cover plates and 2 5. REMOVE V-RIBBED BELT TENSIONER ASSEMBLY (a) Remove the 5 bolts and V-ribbed belt tensioner assembly. 6. REMOVE WATER PUMP PULLEY (a) Using SST, hold the water pump pulley. SST 09960-10010 (09962-01000, 09963-00700) (B) Remove the 4 bolts and water pump pulley. 7. REMOVE WATER INLET HOUSING (a) Disconnect the water hose. (B) Remove the 2 bolts, nut and water inlet housing. c) Remove the water inlet housing gasket and water outlet pipe O-ring. 8. REMOVE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY (a) Remove the 16 bolts, water pump assembly and water pump gasket. INSPECTION 1. INSPECT WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY (a) Visually check the drain hole and air hole for coolant leakage. (B) Turn the pulley, and check that the water pump bearing moves smoothly and noiselessly. If the bearing does not move smoothly and noiselessly, replace the water pump. INSTALLATION 1. INSTALL WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY (a) Install a new water pump gasket and the water pump assembly with the 16 bolts. Torque: Bolt A 21 N*m (214 kgf*cm, 15 ft.*lbf) Bolts B and C 9.1 N*m (93 kgf*cm, 81 in.*lbf) NOTICE: • Make sure that there is no oil on the threads of bolts A. Oh yeah....put the engine & trans back in the same way you removed it... :o

There is a fill plug and an overflow drain plug on the ES350 transaxle. The fluid must be checked via the overflow drain plug with the vehicle running and the fluid must be between 104-113F with the fluid temperature taken with the SPX diagnostic tool. Prety complicated procedure that needs to be done by the dealer. WS fluid only. U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE – AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID AX–167 CHECK TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL NOTICE: The fluid temperature must be between 40°C (104°F) and 45°C (113°F) to accurately check the fluid level using Intelligent Tester. (a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling. (B) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube. If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7. If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to step 8. 7. ADD FLUID (a) Install the overflow plug. (B) Remove the refill plug. © Add the fluid until it comes out of the overflow plug. (d) Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle. (e) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. (f) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. (g) Stop the engine. 8. AFTER FILLING TRANSMISSION (a) Install the overflow plug & fill plug with a new gasket. Torque to spec.

If your car does not have nav it does not have the UL package unfortunately. $34,600 would be way more than $3200 under the MSRP of a UL model, they MSRP for almost $45k. Sounds like a pretty good deal though. My mistake it is a premium package with about 5 or 6 of the other upgrades in the interior plus the full sized spare, ventilated seats, blue tooth etc.

If you do your own oil service just get a spiral notebook and keep all of your recipts and dates & mileage of each change for warranty.

I have run 5w30 valvoline. valvoline maxlife blend and now Pennzoil Platinum. The valvoline maxlife blend made the engine quietest. I use the toyota filters. I change at 5000 miles and now at 141,000 miles my engine uses about 1/3 quart of oil in 5000 miles. No leaks.

This would be my guess as well. One reason I now do my own oil service.

Try Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 synthetic blend and see if it changes.(walmart) But do the oil change yourself so you know it was filled correctly. My guess is the tech did not put enough oil back in your engine. This happens once in a while when they hire the McDonalds french fry boy to do oil service.

You hit it right on the head man, for your info guys, the es was not designed to be a porsche 911, its a luxury sedan, if youre a person who wants to punch the gas all the time or make 140 mile per hour turns you dont buy a es. The ES is for comfort and luxury and ample speed, why do you think it has 4 doors. Its the same thing with this guys who lower a 4 door accord and put body kits on them. Its a family sedan , Jeeez. You want a race car dont buy a 4 door. It just induces autism. LOL Exactly, If you want a performance car don't get an ES. Not designed for performance at all. The idea that FWD is dangerous is ridiculous. Anybody out racing a FWD vehicle is trying to win a Darwin award IMO.