KBRX330

Great post Thanks!

Replace your cam position sensor. You can check the connection but the sensor is probably bad. BTW, 92k is not high mileage on one of these as with proper maintenance you can expect 200-300k out of this vehicle.

I am running Penzoil Platinum 5w30 and a Toyota filter that I get on line from this online Toyota dealer by the case http://www.magauto.com/default.asp?id=2137...;catalogid=3408 or you can get wix Napa gold here: www.fleetfilter.com The oil I get at AAP when they run a BoGo sale so an oil change runs me less than $20 for premium oil. You might want to run a syn oil several changes before the engine gets used to the different anti-wear additives. However the PP oil has a high level of calcium which will keep your engine clean. You will also probably notice more mechanical engine noise form a synthetic oil which will also subside. My fuel economy went up 1.5 mpg with the PP. So we average about 22.5 city 24.5 hwy.

I am very satisfied with the Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors & ceramic pads on my RX330. Way better than the brembos IMO.

How you go? Get to dealer to get to fix... :P

Try one of those long plastic vacuum extensions designed for cleaning under refrigerators. They are about 30" long and flat and fit everywhere.

Check the gas strut that holds the door up. Probably weak and needs replacing.

I just do 4 drain-fills to achieve about 80% new fluid which is fine if you don't want to flush. The RX330 has no serviceable filter so doing a flush is not necessary. Like stated above if the fluid is burnt don't flush it but do drain fills. If you have a fliter then a pan drop-refill is a must do. But a flush is $168 and I can do 4 drain refills for $60. If I do 5 drain re-fills for $80 I end up with about 88% new fluid. I make it a point to do a drain-refill about every 15,000 miles so my fluid has really never turned dark since new and the transmission still shifts llike new at almost 140k. Well worth the trouble IMO as I plan to keep this car in the family to about 300k.

Since I will do the replacement the labor will be zero. Plus this car will get handed down to the next teenager in line when it has about 180,000 miles. So they will be giving me a new set of pads for sure.

Best to stick with the T-IV. Buy it from a Toyota dealer as it is usually cheaper. You will need about 12 qts.

Well I spoke to the dealer today and he advised that it is not necessary to remove the TB or Intake manifold but only the engine cover, PCV valve & hose and the throttle cable bracket and I should be able to reach around the back of the engine. He said lots of people call to get the IM & TB gaskets and they advise them of this as that is how they do all of them and there is just enough room to fit a u-joint & wobble extension under the IM to get the center plug. I hope he is not kidding.... :o

"and the pads are lifetime guarentee..."" I would NEVER buy brake pads that came with a lifetime guarantee, nor a clutch disk either. Guarantee against manufacturing defects, yes, but a guarantee against wear rate.....?? Guaranteed against all of the above. Basically when I wear them out bring them back for another set free. They are ceramic pads and should go at least 40k with our driving style. The ap guy said save the receipt because it doesn't matter if its 5 years later. But we average 35k/ year on this vehicle so I'd say 18 months form now I'll be installing a new set.

I did a complete brake service on my Canadian built 04 RX330 and used Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors and ceramic pads. The reason I am posting is because the Canadian built has different (larger) front rotors then the Japan built and nobody but Lexus & Raybestos carries them. Lexus wanted $170.00 each for the fronts and 110.00 each for the rears. If you vin number starts with J you have a Japan built and if it starts with a 2 you have a Canadian built. The best quote for Lexus factory parts on-line was about $750.00 but I was able to get the Raybestos parts for about $420. Have driven the car about 500 miles and they are perfect! No noise, no judder. I highly recommend the Raybestos AT parts and the pads are lifetime guarantee so I will be going back for the free replacements after another 40,000 miles. Note: The Japan built front rotors are produced by several manufacturers and available at several on line parts sites.

Getting ready to replace the spark plugs on my 2004 RX330 as am now at 137,000 miles on the originals. ( they are still running fine and I'm wondering if I should go to 150k?) Has anyone done this? I have a Haynes Manual which states that you need to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to access the rear 3 plugs. Looking at the engine I can see no other way. Any tips from those who have done this chore will be greatly appreciated. :)

The walmart brand syn oil does not have as robust an additive package as Mobil1. If you only drive 4800 miles per year it depends on your driving style. If some of those 400 miles are freeway then you are probably ok with the walmart supertech. If they are stop and go city driving, I would go with the Mobil1. I have run Valvoline Maxlife blend and Pennzoil Platinum in my rx with great results from both. I change oil & filter at 5000 miles and lab analysis of my used oil shows minimum wear metal levels. You should change your oil at least every 12 months.

Oil sludging atonement: Toyota settles class-action suit Posted Jan 17th 2007 9:04AM by Eric Bryant Filed under: Maintenance, Coupes, Minivans/MPVs, Sedans/Saloons, SUVs, Government/Legal, Recalls/TSBs, Crossovers/CUVs, Toyota If you're the owner of certain Toyota products built with the 2.2L I4 or 3.0L V6 between 1997 and 2002, you may soon be receiving notification from the automaker concerning its recent settlement in a class-action lawsuit. Filed as the result of damage caused by sludged oil (which ultimately can destroy an engine by clogging lubrication passages), the suit claimed that affected customers suffered from failures despite following Toyota's maintenance recommendations. As a result, Toyota will be extending the warranty of up to 7.5 million vehicles to 8 years and 120 days from the original purchase date (without regard for mileage), and will pay for damage incurred as a result of oil sludge - also referred to as oil gel. In 2002, Toyota offered an extended warranty to some owners who were affected by the sludging problem, but many customers claim to have been accused of improper maintenance and were forced to pay for their own repairs. Sludging is the result of several factors, some of which included longer drain intervals, tighter engine tolerances, and the typically higher operating temperatures of new engines. Several other manufacturers have also faced allegations of oil sludging problems and have responded in a variety of ways. As a consumer, the best defensive measure is, of course, a regular oil change (following the "severe service" schedule if required) with a name-brand oil that meets the manufacturer's recommendations for viscosity and API service rating. Some manufacturers recommend different viscosities for operation in extremely hot or cold climates; as always, the owner's manual is an outstanding source of information on matters like these. [source: Consumer Affairs; a hat tip to AB readers Drew and Ryan

The rx300's are notorious sludge monsters. Do an internet search as Toyota has replaced many many engines. The PCV system in that engine is too small. I would take it back if they offered. They know the sludge issue. Ask the dealer about the engine replacement program for those engines. Check here: http://www.autoblog.com/2007/01/17/oil-slu...ss-action-suit/

Yes, true. Mine has a front differential as well with no VC. So don't forget to change the gear oil in there ( 1-quart 85w90)

Got the key blank on ebay for $19.99 and the dealer cut the key for free. Thanks to fbsdmd for the tip!

I made a mistake on my first post. It is 3.5 quarts out and 3.5 in. But note: according to the owners manual a drain/refill is 3.8 quarts. I'm not sure what the total capacity of the trans is but it seems to work fine. 133,000 miles and shifting like new. If the capacity of the trans is 9 qts then 2 drain fills will get you about 55% new fluid. 3 drains will get you over 80%. Since the dealer charges almost $200 for a flush, I can do 3 drain re-fills for about $55.

Please post pics because I know mine will blow out just from reading this thread. The drives side is the tough one as you have to remove the battery.

I have always made it a point to service my trans so I never let the fluid get brown or burnt as that is the point where it's too late. So changing out 1/3 of the fluid keeps the additive package robust.

Go to Amazon and type in "motive fluid extractor" and it should come up. They sell for $55. I use mine for all my vehicles & boat. Very easy to change out the trans, p/s etc. without making a mess or unbolting anything. My dealer wants $168 to change the trans fluid (not flush). I can swap 5-6 qts of fluid for less than $40. So one use more than paid for the extractor. Now it's part of my regular maintenance routine. Just make sure you extract fluid when they are hot as most of the contaminants are suspended in the oil you extract and it flows easily. Tyring to extract cold oil takes 4x as long.

See my post on transmission fluid change. Get yourself a fluid extractor and drain/refill through the dipstick tube while the oil is still hot.

Since there is no serviceable filter on the RX330 transmission you can easily change the transmission fluid yourself with a fluid extractor through the dipstick tube or the drain bold underneath. Your Lexus transmission takes Toyota T-IV fluid which is available at any Toyota dealership for $5-6/qt. I use a motive fluid extractor which has fluid volume graduations on the side and it will extract 5 quarts out of the dipstick tube which takes about 15 minutes when the fluid is hot. So it's 5 quarts out and 5 quarts back in. I do this every 15-20,000 miles and after 130,000 miles my transmission still shifts like new.