KBRX330

I might be. Will it fit in a 2008?

I just found the at Walmart on line for $89 each. Free ship to store.

I just shop my local dealers for WS in case price. I usually get a case of 12 for $80-90.00. Then add $3 for the drain plug crush washer and you have a complete fluid exchange for under $100. Not bad. But the Amsoil substitute for WS is a very good fluid.

I like the 5 gal bucket deal. I also have the exact same red funnel so I will be doing your method next. I am going to try and find a fill bolt and drill a hole and add a piece of metal line to attach the hose to so I can simply screw in the new fill plug and not worry about it backing up. I do think you can buy adapter kits from the people who make fluid extractors. I know they make a Toyota set up for use on other Toyota applications where you actually pump the ATF into the fill hole. But this home made set up works and is easy on the wallet. Very nice.

I switched tire shops....problem over. :-)

This is true. Plus the pads get a salt glaze on the face that touches the rotor. I switched lubricants to Permatex Synthetic Brake Lubricant (green stuff) and any noise or hanging up has gone away. Now I just give them a good powerwash once a month in the Winter and all is good. The salt is really destructive here. I looked at an ES down in Florida earlier this year and the brake rotors on a 2010 looked brand new. Mine look 100 years old.

I get about 70,000 miles out of a set of factory pads. But sometimes in Winter they have gotten a glaze on them and lose some friction capability and feel that way. I replaced them once at 45000 miles due to this but now I just take the car to the power car wash in Winter and blast them a bit for $2.00. That seems to get the salt off and they return to normal. Try spraying them liberally with some Brakekleen aerosol non chlorinated brake cleaner that you can get at Autozone and then rinse with water. Make sure the brakes are cold when you do this.

Yeah, my ES only has 175,000 miles on it and still runs like new and only gets 29mpg on the highway....what a POS....LOL I can't believe I had to replace the spark plugs at 150,000 miles....now my mechanic tells me I am going to need new brake rotors at 200,000 because the factory ones are getting rusty.....this thing sucks. :-)

Depends...I have had very expensive tires go south as well. Turned out to be a balance issue.

Well I take this post back. One of my tires is cupping pretty badly. This is my second set and I am truly disappointed.

This was on the ES350. New bearings...quiet as a mouse.

I have 1 Lexus and 2 Toyotas and both dealers are very explicit about 5000 mile oil changes. I'll never go past 5000 with any vehicle since I change the oil myself and for $20 it isn't worth it.

I use Redline SI1 or Chevron Techron once every 20,000 miles when I change the air filter. Both are complete fuel systems cleaner. The Redline SI-1 is really just gasoline detergent and is good for keeping fuel injectors optimal and keeping the throttle body clean.

First try some cleaner wax and follow with maguiars scratchx and see how it looks after you get all the paint off. You may decide against a repair. On my wifes ES she has hit the same spot 3 times. I finally got a can of Lexus touch up and clear and re did it myself. Not rocket science just time consuming.

Well rolled over 145k on the clock on the ES and started getting what sounded like a low speed growl or the same noise as a tire with 20psi on dry pavement rolling along. Turn out both front wheel bearings were toasted. The left side made a growl at 10-20mph and then a high pitched whine at 70-80mph. Very strange. So when you get out past 120k miles. Start looking for this as it came on very gradually.

Well it was 50* today and I switched out both bushings and links...took 45 minutes without a lift. So much for the 2 hour labor estimate.

=1 I am sure they just plug a ratchet into the square indent and crank the whole assembly back on. Once they do that the small piece is stuck in there and is not coming out. I don't want to deform the whole housing trying to get it out an end up buying a new one.

Just bought my second set of Nexen N5000 215-55R17 tires for my ES. I got them from tirebuyer.com for $410.00 out the door with delivery FedEx. The first set has gone about 45,000 miles and I rotate them every 5000. They have been excellent and for the price you can't beat them. So, if you are looking for a less expensive alternative give them a try.

Well, since it is going to be 20*F here Saturday I probably will.

You do not have a problem....I usually change my oil but the "incredible hulk" at the dealer wrenched mine into a one piece unit as well. My solution: latex gloves and a larger drain pan. For the last 80,000 miles I just change out the whole thing.

I have been using 87 for 130,000 miles...used 91 the first few months....there is about a 5% difference in performance but 87 runs fine.

My 2008 makes a clicking noise audible outside and inside the car since new. Took it in once and they documented it. Now 138,000 miles later still clicking...runs perfect.

I do all of my oil changes at 5000 miles and only use synthetic. I use dino the first 5000 miles then switch to syn. 138,000 on the clock and no issues.

Drove the wife's 2008 ES last night...clunking over bumps. Took it to my local indy chain tire place (saturday) where they are pretty good on alignments. Alignment fine...bad rear stabilizer bushings & links. They couldn't get a price on parts until Monday. So, I call my Lexus dealer..none in stock. I get the part numbers and call my Toyota dealer who has none in stock but his prices are $50 less. So, I order from him. My question is this: How hard is this to DIY? The tire shop wants $178 labor if I bring my parts. They said it is a 2 hour job. Has anyone done them? My service manual sais to remove the rear 1/2 of the exhaust system????? SHould I do them? OR have the shop do them? BTW, the ES has 138,000 miles.

It is in your owners manual. Turn ignition on Set odometer trip meter to trip 1 position turn ignition off hold button in turn ignition to on position with foot off brake and hold button and you should see it reset on display.