KBRX330

Interesting thread...my wife and I just bought a new ES350 tonight and when we were pulling out of the lot passing the used cars she asked me whey there were 7 or 8 one or two year old used BMW's lined up there in the front row..... I said gee what do you think? ;)

Well where I live in NE Ohio we get 8-10 feet of snow annually which in itself is a challenge but we also get many bouts of freezing rain where the roadway becomes a solid sheet of ice. Therefore we have 2 AWD and 1 FWD vehicles because my wife and teenage daughter are usually behind the wheel. This past Winter found the wife twice driving home almost 100 miles at night with the kiddies on board on the Ohio Turnpike in freezing rain. The RX330 made it fine on both accounts so the AWD earned its due respect with me as it got them all home safely. That is my bottom line. Sure FWD & AWD do torque steer but if the ladies can adjust to it then I believe anyone can. JMO

Try some Maguiars ScratchX on it and rub gently.

I just bought an 08 ES350 UL for $3200 under MSRP and was wondering if that is a good deal? I paid $34,600 for it. It has everything except the nav system which we have in our RX330 but really never use so I opted out. It is the Tungsten Pearl with black interior. I was shopping for a demo that they sell for $34,400 but they didn't have the color the wife wanted so they gave us a new one for another $200. It sounded good to me and was competitive with 5 other dealers in the state so I got it. What do you all think? :)

In comparison with my 00 I'd say it isnt. I run 87 all the time and notice no pinging or other problems. I feel for those filling up with 91/93 these days. Same here. But I keep the fuel system cleaned about every 20-30,000 miles. Changed the plugs at 140k and they still looked Ok. Some deposits but not much. I have been using redline, gumout regane or techron cleaner.

It is not a poor design but a very poor maintenance spec on that transaxle. Telling people they don't need fluid chenges until 100k is ridiculous. T-IV fluid is simply not robust enough to go past 30-50,000 miles before it starts breaking down and causing accelerated wear on the clutches and TC. If you simply did one complete fluid exchange at 30,000 to get all the break-in debris out of the unit and then simple drains every 30k you most likely will get full service life out of the transaxle. That is the schedule I use for mine and it is at 140,000 and still shifts like new. Shame on Toyota for that service schedule or not developing a synthetic ATF that will go the distance with a real filtration system versus a screen. When mine failed the tranny fluid had been changed three times, every 30k miles. So your implication of poor maintenance doesnt fly. It has more to do with a bad design and the type of driving you do. My wife has a terrible commute going through city streets no more than 50 mph and less. Well, that would definitely be considered severe service. My wifes driving is a 50-50 mix of city & highway daily. I still say it is the fluid spec that is the culprit. You might want to add a magnefine filter to your system. I am considering that. I already added a external filter to my system... made by perma cool.... Where did you place it? Did you put it in the line to or from the cooler?

It is not a poor design but a very poor maintenance spec on that transaxle. Telling people they don't need fluid chenges until 100k is ridiculous. T-IV fluid is simply not robust enough to go past 30-50,000 miles before it starts breaking down and causing accelerated wear on the clutches and TC. If you simply did one complete fluid exchange at 30,000 to get all the break-in debris out of the unit and then simple drains every 30k you most likely will get full service life out of the transaxle. That is the schedule I use for mine and it is at 140,000 and still shifts like new. Shame on Toyota for that service schedule or not developing a synthetic ATF that will go the distance with a real filtration system versus a screen. When mine failed the tranny fluid had been changed three times, every 30k miles. So your implication of poor maintenance doesnt fly. It has more to do with a bad design and the type of driving you do. My wife has a terrible commute going through city streets no more than 50 mph and less. Well, that would definitely be considered severe service. My wifes driving is a 50-50 mix of city & highway daily. I still say it is the fluid spec that is the culprit. You might want to add a magnefine filter to your system. I am considering that.

The flaw is T-IV fluid & the maintanance interval spec. They need a synthetic fluid in that transaxle because of it's capacity. GM had the same issues using DexronII and III and now have finally developed a synthetic DexVI. Lexus 300/330/350 transaxles cook fluid pretty quickly but if you keep up with fluid changes they will last a long time. That is their achilles heel. Most people just want to buy a vehicle and drive it forever and never change the transmission fluid and think it is odd when they have to. If they are diong lots of stop and go then they are putting the transaxle through very severe service but since they are not towing anything they don't believe that they are tough on the drivetrain. Then they are steamed when their trans craps out at 80-100k and the fluid looks like molasses. A GM 4l60e trans will cook fluid in 30,000 miles of stop and go severe service as well. It is not a design flaw with the mechanical aspect of the trans. It is a maintenance flaw.

It is not a poor design but a very poor maintenance spec on that transaxle. Telling people they don't need fluid chenges until 100k is ridiculous. T-IV fluid is simply not robust enough to go past 30-50,000 miles before it starts breaking down and causing accelerated wear on the clutches and TC. If you simply did one complete fluid exchange at 30,000 to get all the break-in debris out of the unit and then simple drains every 30k you most likely will get full service life out of the transaxle. That is the schedule I use for mine and it is at 140,000 and still shifts like new. Shame on Toyota for that service schedule or not developing a synthetic ATF that will go the distance with a real filtration system versus a screen.

FYI You can buy that transmission from Lexus on line for about $1800. So the $4700 quote is highway robbery. I'm sure they pay about $1,100 for one so they still are charging you about $1,000 for labor. Which is about a 4-5 hour job for an experienced trans mechanic.

Changing fluid is very cheap insurance. If yours has been serviced just do a few drain fills. That guy wont' be whipping out his mastercard if you need a new trans which will hit you for $3,000+. He will just say."gee I guess that is two Lexus transmissions I have seen fail". BTW, the first 3000 customers who came in with a sludged engine were told the same thing.

I agree. If yours doesn't have a serviceable filter. (mine has a screen) go buy a case of T-IV and do 3 drain fills which will get you to about 75% new fluid. OR you can do a cooler line fluid exchange by disconnecting the cooler line that returns to the trans and starting the engine and allowing the trans pump to pump out the old fluid while you pour in the new. (beter use a 5gal bucket to catch the old stuff). Me I just did 4 drain fills and the fluid is clean and that gets me to 88% new fluid. I use a fluid extractor and suck the fluid hot out of the dipstick tube. 4 drian/fills costs me $60.

Way too many posts about people having shift issues using non speced fluids in an Aisin Warner transmission. Mobil makes T-IV and badge it under Mobil 3309. Besides, I can buy T-IV from a dealer for less than I can buy Amsoil. SO why would I pay more for a non-specified fluid?? Makes no sense at all.

Before you do anything run a bottle of Redline s-1 OR gumout with regane fuel system cleaner throuh the system with a full tank of fuel and see if you have dirty fuel injectors. If you have over 100,000 miles on your spark plugs then they probably need changing and you should remove the throttle body and clean it thoroughly with TB cleaner.

What maintenence was done on your transmission?

I live in Ohio where we grow corn & soybeans for fuels but have no State gasoline regulations. So we get all the bad gasoline here that doesn't meet other State regs. So keeping your fuel system clean here is a must. I use Redline S-1 cleaner in my RX about every 20,000 miles. If you don't for some reason you will notice decreased performance with the ethanol fuels. Not sure why though.

Go get your battery load tested and your voltage regulator checked. I get my batteries at walmart and they do the test for free.

I just did the plugs on my RX330 at 138,000 miles. I sure hope my coils don't go out. How do you know which cylinder is bad? Does the code tell you?

Thanks! I have just decided to start doing all the maintenance on my RX that I can do myself because most of it is pretty easy to do and have decided to keep the car as a hand me down to the next teenager in line for a car which will occur in about 14 months. The RX should have about 170,000 miles when my daughter gets it so it won't be so dramatic when she taps someone in the parking lot. Was going to trade it on a new ES350 but I'll wait a year and won't have to shop for 2 cars.

It is the same on the RX330. The transfer case and rear differential take GL5 80w90 gear oil (1 quart each). I use Valvoline durablend but any GL5 rated will do fine. The transmission has no filter to replace but at 60k should be drained and refilled at least once. You MUST use Toyota T-IV fluid (cheaper if you buy it at a Toyota dealer) and you will need 4 quarts. You should also use a Lexus/Toyota oil filter as it is side mounted on the engine and has the correct anti-drain back valve and bypass pressure specs. Replace the engine air filter, PCV valve and cabin air filter which is behind the glove box. I would recommend you then drain & re-fill the transmission every 25,000 miles after that. The Transfer case & rear differential should be changed every 50,000 miles. The engine air filter every 20,000 miles. PCV every 50,000. Engine oil & filter every 5,000. Cabin air filter every 30,000. Your timing belt MUST be changed at 90,000 miles and 180,000 miles. I recommend having them install a new water pump & thermostat & engine coolant at the timing belt change. It is also a good idea to have the throttle body removed and cleaned at this service. When you replace brakes & rotors you can save some money if you use Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors (if you need them) and Raybestos AT Ceramic Brake pads. They are excellent and available at auto parts stores versus dealer prices. I use valvoline synpower brake fluid as it exceeds the Lexus spec. If you want to save some money on tires shop tirerack.com as Kumho makes a tire that fits the RX330 and is $2-300 cheaper per set of 4 than the Michelins and rides just as well. I recommend you make a list of what you need done and shop prices. Your RX330 can last you 200,000+ miles if you take good care of it. We have 140,000 miles on our 04 and it runs like new. Since the RX330 shares the same platform as the Toyota Highlander, Toyota dealers will usually give you better pricing on parts & labor than the Lexus dealers. Note: Your spark plugs are good for 120,000 miles. Hope this helps.

I have had this happen in flushing a neglected trans. What I have learned is to never let the fluid get burnt in the first place and that is why I start my drain fill regimen at 30,000 miles in any vehicle I buy new. One older vehicles that have not been maintained I will never flush. I have had better results by slowly introducing new fluid into the trans by drainfills with 2-3,000 miles in between until I have run 10-15 quarts through the system. Never an issue this way. If there is a replaceable filter I will do a drain/filter and then another in 10,000 miles. You would be surprised at the second one as I have had the second filter come out almost cmpletely clogged in only 10k. I do think flushing a dirty trans stirs up all the contaminants.

I have an 04 RX330 and make sure you do change the trans fluid regularly and make sute you use Toyota T-IV fluid only. I do a drain/ fill (3 qts.) every 15-20,000 miles and did a complete 4 drain/fill flush (12 qts) at 120,000. Now at 140,000 and the trans still shifts nicely. Fluid replacement is the definite key to these transmissions. Note: There is no serviceable filter in the transmission on the AWD so drain fills and flushes is all dealers do. You can easily do them yourself with a fluid extractor or drain pan as there is a square cutout in the underbody plastic panel at the trans drain bolt. I ran the factory fill 30,000 miles and then started my regimen so my fluid has never been to the point where it is even dirty or discolored. Make sure you change the fluid when hot as all the contaminants are suspended in there. If you have an AWD also make sure you change the transfer case oil 80w90 GL5 and rear diff oil 80w90 GL5 every 40-50,000 miles and they will stay like new as well. Each take a quart.

The cabin air filter is located behind the glove box. Contrary to some opinions this is a 20 minute job. Tools needed: 1 pair of pliers 1 very small flat bladed screwdriver I bought the replacement charcoal impregnated filter from NAPA it was $26 it is only a paper element. 1.Empty contents of glovebox 2 Look for 2 plastic stops on the side of the glovebox. Use pliers to turn stops 90 degrees until they align with a keyway and pull backward with pliers 1/2 way but not all the way out. This will allow the glovebox to drop downward exposing the cabin air filter housing and white filter bracket. 3 push in on the tabs on the side of the white filter bracket and slide outwards toward you. 4. Replace filter element using small screwdriver to align filter element in the plastic housing 5. Reinstall in reverse order. Very easy.

Well it's done. You can replace the plugs on your RX330 without removing the engine. ( I ran mine 140,000 miles) Parts needed: 6 iridium plugs. Mine spec'ed Denso 90080-91180 that I got from a Toyota dealer for $10 each (Lexus wanted $14) Note: do not gap the plugs as you will ruin them. 1 PCV Valve 1 Air Filter 1 Can throttle body cleaner spray 1 quart coolant 1 tube permatex anti-seize (small) 1 tube blue loctite (small) Tools needed: 1 3/8 flex head ratchet 1 3/8 regular ratchet 1 5/8 spark plug socket 1 6" 3/8 socket extension 1 10" 3/8 socket extension 1 10mm 3/8 socket 1 12 mm 3/8 socket 1 5mm allen head socket 1 10 mm open end/box end wrench 1 19mm open end box end wrench 1 pair of pliers 1 pair needle nose pliers 2 phillips screwdrivers (1 long 1 short) 2 flat bladed screwdrivers (1 long 1 short) 1 piece of rubber tubing 8" long that will fit snugly over the top of the spark plugs but still pull off. 1 pack of stick on labels & sharpie marker 1 trouble light 1 small wire brush 3 shop rags All instructions are oriented to be facing the engine (battery on your right) ENGINE MUST BE COLD Remove black cover (4 push clips) and put to the side. Remove the silver engine cover 3-5 mm allen nuts ( note the nuts screw over studs so be careful to lift the cover easily) There is a spring clip underneath the cover ( right beneath the Lexus logo) that pulls up an off. There is nothing to detach as it pulls straight upward. Put cover to the side being careful not to lose the allen nuts. You will now see the front bank of plugs. Do one at a time. Remove 10mm retaining nut on coil. Unplug wire connector from coil. Wiggle the coil by turning slightly to break it loose form the plug. Pull upward and the coil & boot assembly will come right out. Using 3/8 ratchet & long extension break plug loose and unscrew a few turns until it turns freely but do not remove plug. Remove ratchet and slide rubber tube over end of spark plug and finsh removing the plug. (Note: I removed the rubber insert form my spark plug socket for fear of having it stick to the spark plug inside the plug well.) Coat new plug threads LIGHTLY with anti-seize and use rubber tube to get the plug started back in so as not to cross thread. Tighten with 3/8 ratchet ( you can torque the plugs on the front but don't expect to on the back side). Re-install coil and wire clip and 10mm retaining bolt Repeat for other two front plugs. YOU ARE NOW 20% DONE :-) Take a coffe break The real work is just ahead. Remove air filter top cover and set to the side. Number each rubber hose and connection point with labels for ease in re-assembly. Remove ALL air intake hoses & plastic pieces in front of throttle body. Number hoses & connection points again Unclip electronic plug from front half of throttle body and push out of the way. Remove all hose connections to throttle body. Two are coolant lines so you will lose some coolant (put a rag under the open hose ends as they will continue to drip) Label all hoses & connections. Remove front half of throttle body (4 bolts) and place aside (label bolts) Remove the throttle body bracket bolt on the back half of the throttle body (1 bolt) Remove back half of throttle body (4 bolts) and place aside (label bolts) Remove PCV hose & unscrew PVC valve & remove (discard) YOU NOW HAVE ACCESS TO THE REAR BANK OF PLUGS... (this gives new meaning to the term reacharound :-) ) When replacing the rear plugs do not disconnect the wires from the coils or you will have difficulty getting them back on. If a coil tube assembly is stuck use the long flat bladed screwdirver to GENTLY pry upward on it. It will come loose. You will have to push them out of the way to R&R the plugs. There is not a lot of room to work but it can be done if you are patient. This where the rubber tubing is a lifesaver and be sure to use anti-seize. I was able to get the driver side plug & middle plug form the drivers side and the passenger side plug from the passenger side. If there are vacuum hoses in your way remove & label. Clean throttle body ( do not spray the black electronic plug on the front half) Install new PCV valve Install new air filter Re-install everything in reverse order using loctite on the throttle body bolts. The new PCV will come with sealer on it. If not use loctite. Re-fill coolant Test drive NOTE: The Haines Manual says you need to remove the plastic intake manifold. NOT TRUE. Good luck!