KBRX330

April fools.......LOL

Unless you guys are doing the actual gallons used to mileage you won't get an accurate reading. The computer readout is not accurate. Plus you should do the calculation over 3-5 tanks of fuel to be accurate. I did mine on 10 tanks of fuel over the course of several months.

Update: Got a really nice CPO 2011 ES350 and traded the 2008 in. Case closed. Thanks for all of the replies.

The 2007 ES350 model year had a lot of shift flare issues with the transmission programming. Ask your dealer to re-flash the transmission ecm. See if that helps.

Go to Autozone they will pull the code for free.

If you get a 2007 look for Trans shift flare issues. All the other years make sure the VVT oil line recall was done. My 2008 is headed for 200k.

We like the 08 Es I just want to avoid a major expense like AC Compressor or Transmission. A full refurbishment will cost about the equivalent of 10 payments. But getting a CPO 2011 or 2012 ES will close the gap $$ wise and get us back to the 30,000 mile range with a 100k warranty. Decisions decisions.

There are 2 fixes. One is an all metal line. The other is another rubber line which is a stronger rubber. No yellow tag. No visual difference. But do go to your dealer and have them look it up with the vin to find out if it was done. I had the new rubber line installed. No problems.

Better get the VVT oil line replaced or at least check to see if it was done.

Not yet still pricing the 200k "refurbishment"

I will add to this topic for future viewers. Our 2008 ES350 now has 195,000 miles on it and had zero defects until an O2 sensor went bad at about 170,000 miles.

All of my Toyotas do it. Normal.

That's amazing to me. I cannot manage better than 21 on my 2010 ES. Something may be wrong.... You need to have your looked at. we have never gotten below 24mpg on a 2GR-FE Toyota 3.5L V6 with 87 octane E10 gas. and we have had 3 of them.

We get 25-26 mpg city and 28-31 mpg hwy. That with almost 200k on the clock. But I only use synthetic oil.

Tom: Find yourself a local Toyota dealer who may have a better shop rate and will have the correct tech scan computer software to diagnose your car. That's what I do. They will still nick you $3-400 for the O2 sensor but it will be diagnosed accurately.

Ok, so my ES has given me pretty flawless ownership for 195,000 miles. I have told myself that I would drive this thing until 200k and then get another one. The car still rides remarkably well on the factory suspension and brake rotors etc. All fluids have been changed every 50k (except oil every 5k) and spark plugs at 140k air filter every 20k. 2 serpentine belts, 2 wheel bearings, 1 O2 sensor.The trans still shifts like new. So should I get new struts, brakes,tires, fluids and super professional detail job and keep going another 50,000 miles for $3000 in maintenance OR trade it in and add $3000 to the trade? What say you Lexus people?

So you have vibration under load. well I would look at a few things that may be possible: 1. Ignition issue- one cylinder misfiring- any CEL or codes ? 2. Torque converter failing (doubtful) 3. CVJ loose or failing- check by doing left and right figure 8 turns at low speed in a parking lot. If you hear clicking then you have a bad axle. 4. Crankshaft or camshaft position sensors. (doubtful) 5. Loose/bent wheel /wheel bearing-spindle/etc. 6. engine mount. 7. Out of round tire. BTW, the wheel bearings on an ES will "growl" very loudly at 40mph when shot. No mistaking it.

I am not sure. I usually just get a new one at the dealer. Mine charges $3.

I had a slight vibration on my 2008 ES and did the balance routine to no avail. Took the car to a performance tire shop and the guy found one of the wheels was slightly bent at the hub. Switched that wheel to the spare and road forced all of the wheels and off we went. No more vibration. The guy did also clean all of the wheel hubs where the wheel bolts up and did clean the back of each wheel where it contacts the hub to reduce any runout caused by corrosion. So that may have played a part. Now I clean the hubs & wheels with a cup brush and apply some permatex anti-seize to the mating surfaces to reduce sticking. Problem solved. That was 100,000 miles ago. BTW my tire guy thought the wheel was bent by a guy running lug nuts on with an impact gun without seating the wheel on the lugs first. Now I rotate them myself and torque each wheel to 80ft lbs with a torque wrench.

I use miles driven and actual gallons purchased on each fill up.

2008 ES 350, 180,000 miles, 87 octane, synthetic oil only, tires at 32psi = 24 city/ 29hwy and the wife drives it at 70-75 all day. But she drives like an old lady around town...go figure.

I never mess with the tube. I just remove the plug to set the fluid level after flushing. 180,000+ miles and still going strong. I like all of the inventors on this thread. I wonder if the people at Lexus read these threads where people invent methods to do DIY service.

I do my own brakes on my 2008. If you use Permatex Synthetic Brake lubricant (green) on the back of the pads between the pad metal backing plate and the anti-squeal clips and re-lubricate the caliper pins with the same lube it should eliminate that squeal. You can buy it on Amazon.

My ES350 gets Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30 and a factory filter every 5000 miles. Now at 181,000 and it runs like new. It also doesn't consume any oil in 5000. Oil is cheap. I buy my oil at Walmart and the filters by the case on line.

Our 2008 ES350 seems to have the same issue after it sits in the sun on a hot day. after it cools off in the evening if you cycle it off/on everything works like new. Our ES has always spent most days in the garage but now my wife works part time and it sits in a mall parkinglot all day. I am going to get one of those solar reflectors for the windshield and see if that helps.