Neo

I have a bronze mica GS. It is getting some minor work done right now so I'll have some pics in a few weeks. ;)

This works out well. As you understand more, it makes additional info easier to digest. The measurement you are looking for is the offset. Now that you get the general idea that you can't just put them on, read this article: http://www.lexusgonewild.com/WheelFitment.shtml There are more complications that I have not yet mentioned but it really depends on how aggressive you want to take the wheels. This article mentions some of the issues. Some of my friends and I are trying to build this site as an info resource for modding the Lex. There will be more articles as time goes by so some of the details in this article will be described in future articles. Take a quick read and if you have more questions, come back and post and I'll try to help.

Can you still buy the emblem? I was told last year that they were no longer sold. I just sent email to another contact to verify for me. We'll see.

Here is a pic at an angle to show you what I mean by the wheel inset. You see how his wheels come out to the edge of the fender/wheel well. The stock wheels would be more "inside" the wheel well.

Here is a pic of one of my friends' car. It has 20s and the L-Tuned shocks and springs.

So if i bought my car for 15,000 then it wont be worth that price if i sell it? Huh? Anyway, I'll try to find a few pics for you of GSes with 20s and a mild drop.

When the lights are on at night they are very yellow compared to the HID lamps. I don't want the replace the highbeam light, just the smaller running light. I could take the bulbs out, I doubt it makes much difference whether I have them on during the day or not. If anyone knows where I can get some bulbs that give off a whiter beam, let me know. What HIDs are running? OEM? Are you talking about the wedge bulb? I don't think those are related to DRLs since DRLs are actually the highs running at 50% wattage. I use the Polarg M4s to replace the wedge bulb and they are white. I've also seen people putting M6s in but I think those run at a higher wattage than stock.

Thanks for the clarification. What wheels are you running?

You should qualify that statement more with why. When I had my L-Tuned springs and shocks, it definitely reduced the bouncy/floatiness of the stock S/S. Since gco only stated that he does not like the bounciness of the stock setup, the L-Tuned would be a good choice for him. There are more combos out there but it really depends on what you are looking for: performance, ride quality, drop, ... You don't get anything for free. You choose performance and you will lose some ride quality (and vice versa). Let us know more about your goals and maybe someone here can direct you to a setup that fits (or comes closest to) your needs and budget.

OK. The rest of the discussion is on looks only and they are my personal opinions so if you disagree, no prob. B) I will refer to the "rim" as the "metal" part, the tire is obvious, and the "wheel" as the rim/tire combo. Once you go 18s and above, you should lower the car. In your case where you want to go to 20s, the wheel diameter will be about 1" bigger than stock. This in itself will elevate the car an extra 1/2". 1/" may not seem like much but I think the car is high enough as it is. From a distance, you will see much more rim since 20s are bigger than the stock 16s or 17s. Both these issues combine to give your GS an elevated look that is akin to an SUV. If you like that look, then go for it. I like the agressive look of somewhing like a BMW. The main thing is to eliminate the wheel/fender gap. Luckily for you, with the bigger wheel, you will not need to lower the car as much. Even 1" will help tremendously and 1.5" will be nice without tucking the wheels into the wheel well. Springs and shocks willbe in the neigborhood of $400 - $500. Installation should be about $150 - $200 (not dealer prices). You can get some that will not diminish the ride quality by much. BUT, your ride will decrease already since you have 20s on. Because of the 20s, you will need to get low profile tires which then has less rubber sidewall. Less rubber, less cushioning. Also, since the sidewall is shorter, they are usually stiffer to protect the tire and rim. You can't look good without giving up something. ;) The other look issue is how much the wheels will be inset in the wheel well. If you look at some cars, the wheels come out very close against the fender. This is a very agressive (nice to me) look. If you look at your wheels now, they are inside the wheel well. I am not talking about tucking underneath but just how far it sticks out. The rear wheel well is a bit deeper. This is why some people get staggered wheels so that both the front and the rear will be similar in terms of how flush the wheels stick out. The staggered setup looks much nicer to me but it comes at the cost of not being able to rotate the wheels since the front and rear are different widths. You do get better handling/control but that is a different topic. ;) The staggered setup only affects the front, rear and angled views since you can see the wheel position relative to the car. From the side, the diameter is the same so they will look the same size. One other option is to runn the same wheel size but use a spacer in the rear to push out the wheels. Some have had good luck with this and some have had vibration issues since you are extending the stance of the car. If you do this, invest in nice H&R spacers that keep the wheels hub centric. (I can get into this if you are really interested. This post is getting to be long enough as it is. :)) With all this, here are some general safe numbers for you to consider. If all 4, rim size should be 20x8.5 with +38 offset. Tires should be 245/35R20. If you want a staggered, then go with 20x9.5 with +38 offset in the rear. Tires should be 275/30R20. Lug pattern (again) should be 5x114.3. Again, this is but one example of what will work. You can tweak some of the numbers for a more agressive setup but this will get you started. Ask more if you want more details. Also post back once you find the types/styles of wheels you like.

Most of the TC installs I've read about are on the GS4x0. They have much more torque to be gained by installing a high stall TC. Many feel that the 300s do not have enough torque to warrant getting a TC. The PI unit is about $950 and installs can range from $400 to $600. That's a lot of money to maximize the torque potential on a 220 TQ GS300 vs a 325 TQ on a GS430. Still, if you don't mind spending the money and want to tweak the performance of the car without having to go to FI, then go for it. Remember though that the torque is mostly felt at the lower speeds so you will get faster launches. Once you are at speed, the TC won't really help since you are now in the realm of HP (which again you are limited to the 220 on the GS300 :(). As for personal experience, I don't have it on my car. It is on the to do list but not as high a priority as other mods. Just wanted to share what I know about the mod.

Oh, as far as your question about springs, I assume you are talking about lowering your car. Although not necessary, I would recommend it otherwise your car will look like an SUV. With 20s, your outside wheel diameter will be bigger than stock. Add that witht he visual cue of larger rims and the stock space, it just is not pretty. Luckily for you is that since you going with 20s, you will not need to lower the car too much. 1" - 1.5" will do you just fine. It depends on the look you want though. You can tuck it if you want to lower more but then you risk some rubbing against the fender well. This can be remedied (to a certain extent) as well but that is another discussion. ;) If you are getting lowering springs, I suggest getting a shock that is geared towards lowered cars too. The stock shocks will not last long with the lowering springs plus you will be spending for installation twice when you need to replace the shocks down the road. It would also be helpful in this discussion (on wheels and suspension) if you give a better idea of what you are trying to achieve with the car (looks only/slammed/mild drop/handling increase) and what your estimated budget is for the different components. Modding is fun but it also takes a lot of research (and $ ;)). Luckily, there is a good assortment of components for our cars. Good luck. :D

Sorry if you are feeling ignored. For, me I don't check that often and I must have missed your first post. The question is somewhat general so I can only give a general response. First, make sure the lug pattern will fit the car. You are looking for 5x114.3. Next is width of the wheel. Are you looking for a staggered setup? Meaning, do youwant the rear wheels to be wider (the part where it touches the road) than the front? If so, a safe setup would be 8.5" in front and 9.5" or even 10" in the rear. You will need the offset to be right too or else there will be rubbing issues. Fronts should be mid to high 30s (+35 - +38) and the rear should be mid 40s (+45 or so). If you going with the same size all around, then go with 8.5". I've also seen 9" all around but the offset has to be even more precise. Anyway, this will get you started. When you have more specifics, post back. It is too hard to have a post with a bunch of "If this, then do that." ;)

I am of the reverse thinking. The right aftermarket wheels will enhance and transform the look of the car. There will be handling performance increases (low profile usually (but not always) means better tires, bigger contact patch), but there will also be ride quality (less rubber) and power decreases (potentially heavier rims). If you go with chrome, the wheels will be even heavier. You will just have to pick your poison. You don't get anything for free. :)

Can you post a link to this discussion? If they are talking about the 98-00 taillights, some of the early models did not light up the top portions. I remember reading about something like this over a year ago so the details are sketchy. I did not tink about it much since I upgraded to the 01+ tails.

Since I'm not getting in soon, I have not thought about how to remedy the problem yet. As for the older models, it does not matter. The 'L' was not a part of the grille. It as an "accessory" if you wanted to purchase it separately. The grille should still be the same. One thing you should pursue is that the Euro Sport models now have the TTE grilles on them. Of course you also see the 'L'. I am not sure what Lexus is doing with that car. Is it the now phased out TTE 'L' or a taped on version? I don't have the answer to that but it is worth pursuing.

I can't even think of a grille that is metal, much less someone having it for sale. Your best bet is to chrome it yourself line NeeZe did, or buy the Lexus SportDesign (or if you have the $ the Junction Produce) grille (which is partially chromed).

I believe the stock 16s are 16x7.5. Those wheels are comfortable running a 225 tire. 235 will be pushing it but it may work, although I wouldn't risk it. I don't think the 245 will fit.

The front emblems on the GS is held by screws and they are a bit thick. They are not like the rear emblems that are held on by tape. The TTE grille used to have an emblem made for it with specific attachment accessories. I've heard that TTE have discontinued the emblem (I don't know why.). Unless you can find out otherwise, your best bet is to get an 'L' emblem that can be fastened by double-sided tape. I am not sure which car has the best emblem size for the TTE. I will have this problem down the road too as I am also going to get the TTE. I have other mods that take precedence right now so the grille will have to wait. Good luck.

B) I agree.

In a word: NO. The reflectors in the housing are setup differently for the halogen and HID housings. Also, there is a place for the ballast and leveling computer at the bottom of the HID housing whereas the halogen housings do not have this space.

In case some of you want the cleared 98-00 taillights, here is someone selling a used set. This is not me. Just passing a deal along to you guys. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...threadid=112079

Those are nice. Love 'em. I also like the Oakley wires.

For that price, it should be. Please check PM.

Here is the Rotora Blue Caliper Kit.