Neo

Ah, I did not realize you were also running 20s. What was the stock size you had? 16s? 17s? Thei estra rubber on the sidewalls make a HUGE difference in terms of ride quality. Even if you stayed on stock shocks and springs and moved to 20s, the ride would be worse. As for the rubbing, yes it is your tires. The stock diameter is 25.7". With your front tires, you are at 26.8" and at 27" for your rear. You are over 1" more with your rear. Going to 30 series in the back will help but it puts your diameter at 26". You will now be with front and rears at a bigger difference diameter. Running 20s, in general, will put you out of spec. Your speedo/odo will be off and you probably get a little rubbing in front if you turn your wheels all the way to one side. One thing you can try to do is to figure out how much it is rubbing. You can shave the inside fender tab a little and that may clear it up. Honestly, I think you should have stayed with 245s all around. I can't see the extra 10mm helping that much. If you had staggered wheels and went 275s in the back, then yes 30mm is a bit more substantial. You lost the ability to rotate your tires for 10mm. I don't think it is worth it but that's just me. ;) Not sure about your wheels and its offset but if the offset was not too aggressive, another option was for you to put small spacers in the rear to push the wheels out a bit for that more aggressive look without going to 255s.

Wow. We need to clear this up. This is what I got from "Jack" awhile back. I wonder if they've changed the pricing: ------------- Yes the book I have shows it's the same as the IS300. That's the multi-disc and it sells for $934.42. Shipping will be $30.35 and the warranty is for 2 years. Precision Industries 800-649-7866 ------------- Can you make sure it is the multi-disc one for a 2nd Gen GS300? Even for the single-disc GS400 one, that's a great price for new.

So then you are not talking about the float bouncy. Are you talking about the ride quality being a bit harsher and you get tossed around a little more when hitting uneven roads and bumps? If so, then it is normal. Although the ride of the L-Tuned S/S is not too bad, you do give up some ride quality for the improved handling. As for using the stock springs with the L-Tuned shocks, I've never seen anyone ask that. ;) Usually people like the lowered stance and want the springs and ponder going back to stock shocks. I honestly can't give you a definitive answer. Obviously, you would lose the lowering if you did this. Also, the handling/cornering will also be affected since the springs contribute to this aspect. The shocks dampening characteristics help with the float. Although this is an overly simplification of what the two does since they do work together, I'm just trying to say you will lose something if you go back to stock on one or the other.

I don't have info on the Win and Blitz but the L-Tuned is a perfect fit, top-notch quality. The L-Tuned products are discontinued though but there may be leftover stock somewhere.

Not easy but it has been done: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...threadid=118081 http://lexusmodz.netfirms.com/ http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...threadid=110772 Enjoy!

Junk yards. It will depend on your luck and timing. Getting a new OEM unit would cost $$$$.

When you are changing components that may affect how the engine behaves, it is always good to reset the ECU for it to adapt to the changes. Supposedly, the K&N increases airflow at the intake. I'm not sure how much this increase is but it would not hurt to reset the ECU.

Your assessment of the companies are correct. It is hard to compare costs since they have different parts. L-Tuned is now defunct so the parts are rare if can find them. You can usually pick pieces here and there used. If you are talking about kits, the L-Sportline is a full f/s/r replacement while the L-Tuned was only the sideskirts. Fitment is perfect on the L-Tuned. L-Sportline is not as good but with a good bodyshop, you will be OK. Let me know if you have questions about more specific parts.

Unless the Canadian cars were different, the 98s and early 99s did not have DRL.

Are you saying it is too bouncy in general? OR bouncier than stock? It definitely did not feel too bouncy when I had them on. Much better handling than stock and much reduced float.

It should be in the fuse box on the passenger side of the engine bay near the strut tower. You are looking to pull the ECU-B fuse. Just so that it does not surprise you, you will lose the radio presets and seat memory settings too.

Yes, it is lower on the sides. It is up to you. The bumper will not line up with the side skirts. If you are OK with that, then go for it.

Here is some info on the Sac meet. 1st Annual Beginning-of-Summer Meet & Volleyball Tournament : June 26

There will be an end of summer meet. We are still discussing possible venues. There will be a more imminent meet as we are planning a beginning of summer meet. Details are still finalizing but the initial plans are to have a BBQ up in the Sac area. This will be more of a family oriented meet where it is more of a get together, bring the family, eat, and do some outdoors activities. It will not have a car meet focus like the Stevens Creek one but you know there will be plenty of car discussions. The car focus meet will be in Sept again. Some of us are also driving down to SoCal for the "Carson" meet. They are finializing the details there so date and time will be forthcoming.

Or you can do what is typically known as the "fat" setup: 245/40. This will give you the ride benefitts of the 18s (bigger sidewall) while giving you the clearance benefits of 20s since the outside diameter will be like having 20s. Clearance is nice if you drive the car as a daily driver and have a body kit. Since the OD is like having 20s, you may have to be more carefull with the offset to minimize rubbing.

i guess each wheel maker will have different offsets .:cries: Except for companies like HRE where the offset can be custom, most other manufacturers will have a few offsets available. These offsets, though, are not really standardized. Meaning different manufacturers and different wheels will have an x number of available offsets and these may not be the same set of offsets available at another company.

45k miles? You have a long way to go (as long as you maintain it). ;)

Here are some rough guidelines: http://www.lexusgonewild.com/articles/WheelFitment.shtml

Todd at TMEngineering http://www.tmengineering.net Steve Ganz at Carson Toyota: http://www.l-tunedparts.com/ And in the Bay Area for their specific products, Mike at PLP: http://www.prolexperformance.com/prolexper...ce/asp/home.asp Good luck. BTW, we have a pretty strong NorCal group of guys modding their car, mostly GS but some IS too. We are planning a meet in the Sac area in June. Let me know if you are interested in coming or have other questions.

Thanks. It is the TTE front lip. The 98s have "parking" lights but so does the other model years. They really are not DRLs, which are usually always on without an off switch. As for the M4s, that is the Polarg designation for the 168 wedge bulb. :)

Yes, the GS's DRL is the highs running at 50%. BUT, the 98s don't have relay that will activate this. I think it started with the late model 99s.

Hope you like them. I did not change out the highs since I rarely use them. I have a 98 so I do not have DRL. I sometimes wish I did have DRL since there is a mod I'd like to do that having a DRL relay might prove useful. Anyway, maybe others with DRL can help you with this part. :)

Here's one with my 6000k HID.

It is tight to get in there to replace. If you have small hands, it would be easier. I'm running M4s too. They are not as bright as the M6s but I prefer the M4s since they match my HIDs pretty well and they run at a lower voltage (closer to stock) than the M6s. Here is a pic of my car with the M4s.

Look here for a sampling: http://www.lexusgonewild.com/videos.shtml Click on the V8 competition.