jeremyp

Go to lexus.com and regiser your car in the owners section of the site. You can request a free copy of the owner's manual. I don't have mine handy right now, but I'll check it later and post what the 90k service should include.

There are more cost effective methods to replacing the bushings. Sounds like the dealer is replacing the entire lower control arm. You can buy 95 Toyota Supra Lower Control Arms for $200 ea or you could buy some replacement bushings from vftbushes dot com and have them installed into your existing control arms. Struts go for $65 each and are really easy to do. You will need a friend to help and a spring compressor which you can rent/borrow from your local auto parts store. The coolant reservoir could be found in a salvage yard or check out car-part dot com or taprecycling dot com. It's pretty easy to do yourself. How handy are you? Do you have the tools to do the job? Got a service manual (get one if you don't).

If the part #'s are the same, then yes it will work fine. P6800 from a 93 will work fine in a 95.

I have one for a 92 SC400. It should be just about identical. pm me.

Same here. Shortly after I bought my 92 SC400 I started having the same problem. I gave the car a complete tune up and it was still present. Then I replaced the fuel filter and the problem went away. THOSE DAMN FUEL FILTERS!!! They SUCK to change!

Used trannys can be had for cheap. When mine went out on my 92 SC400 I was able to get a 60k tranny for $400 and installed for $200 plus fluid. check out car-part.com. Hopefully it is something electrical. Let us know how you make out.

Here is the directions from alldata (minus pics). You must use a shim removal tool. This job is a real pain in the !Removed!. Remove No. 3 timing belt. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs. Remove cylinder head covers. Set No. 1 cylinder to TDC. Ensure timing marks of camshaft timing pulleys are aligned with timing belt rear plates, Fig. 32. If not, turn crankshaft 360°and recheck. Using a feeler gauge, check clearances while engine is cold. Intake should be between .006-.010 inch. Exhaust should be between .010-.014 inch. Check valves in Fig. 33. first. Turn crankshaft 360°and check valves in Fig. 34. If valves need adjustment, proceed as follows: Turn crankshaft until cam lobe is positioned upward. Press down lifter using shim too 09248-55011 or equivalent, then place another shim tool between the cam and lifter flange. Using compressed air and a magnet, blow out shim through shim hole, Fig. 35 and 36. Using a micrometer, measure shim thickness. Calculate shim thickness using the following formula: intake N=T+(A-.0008 inch), exhaust N=T+(A-.012 inch): T=Thickness of used shim, A=Measured valve clearance, N=Thickness of new shim. Place new shim on valve lifter. Press down lifter and remove shim removal tools. Recheck valve clearance. Install cylinder head covers. Install spark plug wires. Install No. 3 timing belt covers. Copyright © 2005 ALLDATA LLC

Send it to lextech lighting and have them do it. LLS's post above. I wouldn't mess with it or you may end up with the blackened out screen which is a LOT more money.

This is a very common problem. Most likely your battery connections or the battery itself. Take apart the connections, clean them real good and then put them back on nice and tight. Check the negative ground cable for corrosion while your doing this. Excessive corrosion in the negative battery cable can also cause these symptoms. If that doesn't do it then have the battery and alternator checked. Do a search under electrical problems and you'll find a lot of threads on this.

Replacing the cam and crank seals at the same time the timing belt is done is a good idea IF you aren't charged the full price of doing this job alone (as dgorrie said). Alldata says it takes 3.1 job hours to do the front crank seal by itself and the part is about $20. $165 seems reasonable for your mechanic to do both seals at this time.

I'm not 100% certain because I havent' done it or seen it myself. It's not that much of a difference in diameter and the wheels aren't that wide so I'd say you would be OK with that. Always test fit before mounting all four tires though. J

The prices you posted, which are from Carson Toyota's group buy on CL, are the lowest you are going to find anywhere. To do the complete conversion, each piece is needed. However, you don't have to do the complete conversion. You could do as little of the conversion as you want or your funds allow. Like maybe start with the front bumper and grill insert. Then maybe get the fogs later or whatever you want. I've seen plenty of SCs out there with just the front and sides for instance and the rear was left alone. I myself have all of the parts EXCEPT the fogs and tails and will be having it completed by my body shop over the winter. By the way, if you plan on taking advantage of the Carson Toyota group buy then you'd better do it now because it ends on the 20th. J

Not only do you need at least a 17" wheel, you'll also need a wheel with spokes that will clear the calipers as well. The TT and LS400 calipers stick out much farther than the stock SC calipers do.

Agreed. 245/40/18's will be perfect on an 8" wheel. The SC430 wheels fit the earlier SC's fine, but I'm not crazy about them. If you like them, then go for it.

Did you do the installation yourself?

It was the Ebay kit that was mentioned. ← Exactly! They are junk!

I've known several people on another 'Lexus' site that have gone with the Leatherseats.com covers and they REALLY like them. The pics look like brand new seats. It's all in the installer taking his time to make it look right. I've also heard good things about Katzkin covers as well, but I haven't seen any pics of them installed. A local leather shop uses their kits exclusively except for custom jobs and swears by them. Are you planning on doing it yourself?

They are junk. Fitment is terrible. Just spend the extra and get a decent body kit. You'll end up paying a body shop more in labor to fix the fitment issues than the difference in price. Do a search and you'll see for yourself. A 97+ conversion is easy enough for you to install yourself and parts can be found pretty reasonably through Carson Toyota in Carson, CA. Good luck

92-96 look almost identical. slight changes in the front bumper from 95-96. 97-00 have a newer look with a new front and rear bumper with sideskirts and a different rear spoiler. Check out ebay as someone said above and check out intellexual.net http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html

How about a mint condition 96 SC300 5spd black on black. $10,500. Very rare car. PM me if interested.

They sure do. Converting the 92-96 SC3/4's to the 97-00 body style is a really popular mod. I'm going to be doing this myself this winter on my 92 SC4. Contact Gordon or Bobby at Carson Toyota for the best prices. http://www.l-tunedparts.com/ If you search around you'll find a group buy for the conversion parts. pm me if you want the info.

I have a set of Eibachs on my SC400 with brand new OEM struts. They ride a little firmer than stock, but still very comfortable. The handling is also very much improved. The only thing that's annoying is a noise I now have in the rear. A friend of mine who also has an SC400 has the same noise. We suspect it's the upper coils in the rear springs hitting each other when hitting certain bumps like potholes. It only happens when the springs expand and then compress together again quickly. Other than that, I'm happy with the ride quality.

Yep, NON-CHLORINATED Brake-Kleen works great. It comes in a green spray can. DON'T get the red can.

This is a very common problem which I've had myself. It is one of four things. Alternator, battery, terminals or neg battery cable. You've already replaced the alternator so you know that's not it. You should now check your battery. You can do it yourself with a simple voltmeter or bring it to Sears or AutoZone as suggested and they will check it for you. If that checks out OK then you'll want to check the terminals and make sure that they are clean and tight. This was one of my problems. Even though I cleaned the terminals and battery posts really good I found out that I still need to replace them because they were not getting tight enough. You should also check the neg cable itself and the grounding point on the car body. The neg. cable grounds to the body just behind the battery tray. Look at the cable where it connects to the terminal and look to see if there is any green color to the copper cable. It most likely does. This is corrosion that is affecting the cables ability to conduct electricity. If you have a voltmeter then you can check the voltage drop across the negative cable. First check what the voltage is by touching the red lead to the +batt. terminal and the black lead to the -batt. terminal. Then move the black lead to the grounding point on the body and see if it's different than the previous reading. If there is a drop in voltage then the cable needs to be replaced. I bought a premade cable and connected it to a new terminal and the grounding point on the car body and I installed a grounding kit from teckkits.com. The problems went away for good. I hope this helps you out and good luck.

You could go with the new Tein Basic coilovers. prostreetonline has them for $641 which makes them only slightly more expensive than Eibachs w/ new struts. The ride is comparable to Eibachs and you can adjust the height (obviously). here's the link. http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/tein%5F...ilovers/toyota/ To get them for $641, use coupon code HT5D.