branshew

This past weekend I "hardwired" an FM modulator to the factory head unit. My tape deck was broken so I couldn't use my iPod in that fashion. I had tried wireless modulators before and found them all to be junk as far as sound quality goes so I was hoping for better results with this version. The verdict is still out, but my initial impressions are that the sound is much better than a wireless modulator, but less than that of a tape deck adaptor and much less than direct wiring. I use a tape adaptor in my Wife's VW for comparison and that actually sounds pretty decent. Even with the hardwired modulator I find that I have to turn up the volume on the iPod and head unit (louder than when listening to a traditional radio station). I also am getting a slight revving noise in the background during acceleration. I used a high quality FM mod and Monster cables to try and get the best sound quality, but it's not where I would like it to be. Short of replacing your head unit with a new one there are very few options for linking your iPod to your Lexus. Most manufacturers aren't making interfaces for pre-2002 cars that I have found.

Watch out. That site tried to send a worm into my PC.

Didn't KYB make the OEMs for Lexus?

Looks like the rear sunshade and ECT selector. ;) BTW, great car M500! B) ECT is above the two switches that I am referring to. Sunshade makes sense.

Find the sway bar and trace it from one side of the car to the other. You will find 2 "U" shaped metal brackets that are about 15" or so from the wheels (towards the middle of the car). Inside these metal brackets are the rubber bushings. IIRC the bushings are rounded on one end and squared on the other with a slit in between to slide the sway bar into them. There are 2 bolts that hold each metal bracket in place. Remove the bolts, slide the metal brackets off then remove the bushings. Put the new ones on and slide the metal brackets back in place and bolt them on and you're done. You'll notice that on the new bushings there is a series of rubber ridges that run around the inside part that makes contact with the sway bar. The ridges on the old bushings will probably be worn down which is why they are making noise.

What are the two switches in the center dash area, behind the shifter, to the left of the seat heater controls - They're not on the '02 that I was driving. Air suspension or something w/ the lux package?

I love the ad verbage... It looks like it was made out of a beer can cut with a dull knife That thing is a direct ripoff of the "Tornado" I'd love to write that BS for a living....Harness the power of a tornado... tornado-tune your engine. I also love all of the conditions that he places on the auction... So if you're an idiot or the transaction goes bad because of something that you do and I leave negative feedback - then you'll leave negative feedback for me for no reason - sounds fair. I especially like this one: "It may take an extra week for me to drink enough beers to have the cans to make more of these things - order during football season when I have guaranteed stock."

What I was looking at was their "Sport" line that is just below their GT line. It appears that they do come pre-drilled by Brembo, but I could be wrong - they may send the blanks out to be drilled by someone else. Here's a link to their website that shows them pre-drilled. What brakes did you end up going with?

Beautiful - and welcome to the club. I was fortunate enough to borrow my Dad's '02 LS430 for a few days last week while he was in Amsterdam. We had to take the wife's VW in for service (imagine that) and we needed a spare car so he told me to take it for a few days. The ride on that car is so much smoother than my '93 (which is so much smoother than most other cars on the road.) Lexus continues to make leaps and bounds in their performance, styling, ride, and comfort. I know that '06 is one sweet ride. I love the color and the rims- it just needs a little (tastefully done) window tint and you'll be set. Enjoy it in good health!

...put Brembo drilled rotors on my car? I am talking drilled only, not slotted and drilled. My OEM front rotors have recently developed a slight warp and I'm not sure if they have enough left to resurface them so I'll probably put on a set a replacements. I know that the potential is greater for warping on a drilled rotor, but I'm not racing the car or subjecting it to any severe braking (aside from nearly hitting the a$$hole that cut in front of me on the highway this morning). If the cross-drilling can provide any additional stopping power I would think that's a plus. From my experience - Brembo makes a quality product and I've had success with them in the past for regular (non-drilled/slotted) rotors. The set of Brembos will run me @ $150 - about the same as OEM from the stealership. Thoughts?

An engineer friend turned me on to this site recently: E-machineshop Download their CAD software, design your part and they will make it for you out of nearly any material. 3 axis CNC milling, lathe, drilling, injection molding, laser cutting, water jet cutting, dye casting, plasma cutting, WIC cutting, welding, turret punching, thermoforming, powder coating, etc...

I thought there was also an OBDII under the hood (at least I thought there was on my '95). Forget Autozone - you need a mechanic to look at that car. I wouldn't buy it unless I knew for sure what the wobble inthe steering is. It could be something expensive.

Whats wrong with trading a car in? The last car i had i traded it in for more than i paid for it. I dont let the sales people get the best of me. Plus, i enjoy messing with them, getting the best price, you know. Nothing wrong w/ trading-in your car. Some dealers like to rake you on the trade-in though. In your case, you probably would get more for your '94 on a private sale than you would in trade.

I personally don't like chrome. It's too much work to keep it clean and polished. If you don't then the chrome will dull, fade past recovery, pit, peel and fleck off over time. If you live within 1500' of the ocean like I do or somewhere where they salt the roads heavily in the winter then chrome is even more of a PITA. Do you really want to clean and wax your wheels in Feb when it's 20 degrees outside? (Although you could have a "winter set" of rims.) I prefer a nice alloy any day. Just my $0.02.

I'd be interested in seeing a few pics (even if you are in them :) ). Sometimes the glamour shots they take for the press releases don't show the true experience.

Could be something in the fuel delivery system - a clogged fuel filter/line, fuel pump on its way out... Is the car free revving when you lose power (i.e. the engine goes, but the tranny isn't doing it's thing) or is the engine dying back (drop in RPMs)? If the last one is more thecase then I would look into the fuel system.

Glad to hear it! I can only imagine the relief knowing that your constant headaches are going away.

Uh oh! Here we go again.......

Sounds about right for an older Audi. Older Mercedes were much better than their German counterparts when it comes to reliability (I wouldn't buy an older Benz either though). Back then Audi still had too much VW in them to be worth a damn, but they're getting a little better. You can't go wrong with the LS. Reliability and comfort wise - it will be years ahead of your Audi. Driving it in the snow will be a little different though. It is a big heavy car w/ RWD so It won't change direction as easily on pack as a FWD car would and once it gets going it will want to stay that way compared to a lighter car. Traction control won't do much for you on snow except keep you from peeling out or bogging down if you get caught in a drift.

Price is about $2K too high IMHO, but price is always negotiable. (And it depends on where you are) That's a good car though w/ low mileage for the year. Assuming that it is mechanically sound then you should be able to get another 100K out of it. If you're really interested in the car then take it to a mechanic to start with to see what he says. If it has all receipts, if it has had the TB changed, if it is in perfect mechanical and cosmetic condition and everything works, then @ $6K may not be too bad. If no TB change or if it needs a few minor things then I wouldn't go much more than $5500-$5700.

You could have a loose wire somewhere. Sounds like the clock is not getting voltage when the car isn't running. Maybe the same thing is happening to the climate control. On your radio you have 2 Hot wires. One that is hot all the time to hold your presets, CD track playback info, clock, etc. Then there is one that is only hot when the car is on where it draws the juice to run on. (I realize that your clock isn't on the radio - just using that as an example of the dual hot wire principal) Do you have the original head unit or an aftermarket stereo? Maybe someone hosed up the wiring in the dash area installing an aftermarket.

Sweet. I had no idea that was even an option. Are you sure that is a Euro option or an Asian one? I didn't think that Lexus was sold in Europe until the late '90's. You would have to do some cutting of the bumper, and it would depend on whether you wanted them to be on a separate switch or controlled by the headlight/parking light control. I would assume that if you powered/controlled them by the latter then you would risk excessive draw on the headlight circuit and could blow a fuse or relay. Most auto parts shops sell aftermarket driving lights for offroad use and I'm sure you could find something that would work. Alternate option would be to replace your front bumper w/ a Euro version (or Jap version if they were available there) and find someone w/ the parts. Good luck on that though since we're talking about 12 years since the GenI was made.

Welcome to the club: 1) Post this in the Audio forum. You may have better luck there. The head unit may only be compatible w/ the existing Pioneer amp, but I'm not sure. 2) I would start w/ your local upholstery shops. Most of them can get leather and carpet in various grades and colors that will work fine. Ask to see current projects as well as pictures of completed ones. Look at the quality of the fit and how even the stitching spacing and that should give you a good idea of the type of work that they are capable of. 3) I've heard good things about american stitches, but I've never used them. Seems pricey when you may be able to get one from a totaled car. 4) I didn't think the LS was available in Europe in '91 so I'm not sure what you're referring to on that one.

It also proves what I've been saying which is that the body shop knows what insurance companies are willing to pay and will fix the repair for that amount. They will try to milk you for more, but if your firm with them or tell them to take it or leave it like the insurance companies do then they are more likely to take it. We're talking about a bumper scratch here. It's something completely different if it was a huge front end collision where there may be more internal damage that is discovered once you start taking the car apart.

You said it yourself - you represent 8 companies. You're not a cliams adjustor and you don't directly work for any of the companies. (It's my sister-in-law, but that's bedsides the point.) You're blowing this way out of proportion. LexKid got a small scratch on his bumper. They aren't going to have to tear apart the rear end and fix a bunch of internal components. Actually most body shops guarantee their work. Why would anyone want to go to one that will not stand behind their finished product? The insurance company is also there to stand behind it. Man - I knew this would get out of hand based on LEXIRX330's first reply. SW I'm with you. Probably time to lock this one down.