branshew

It's pretty easy to remove the cluster and to replace the backlighting in your car. I did mine in my '95 ES and '93 LS and I'm far from being a mechanic.

A little more detail would be helpful. Does it happen when you are turning left or right or both? Does it click if you turn it while the car is sitting still or only while moving? Is the clicking on the right or left or both?

What exactly are you trying to do - just change the light colors?

You mean "They will let you know that you need many other things replaced as well." Dealership service writers get paid commission. They will try to convince or scare you into fixng anything that they can to pad the service bill. I'm sure that $140 would be the belt only and I'd bet that they would want to charge full labor to include in the water pump even though it should only add about 1 hour to the job max. I wouldn't listen to the advice above in reference to pushing the change interval on the timing belt. You should be fine to the 90K recommended change interval, but don't push it to far beyond that. Your 2003 has an interference type engine so if the belt does break, expect to get your top end rebuilt for a significant amount of money.

Thank you very much. I did take them out and inspect them. They're seem to be working fine when applying 12V. Is there any more place to take a look. Thanks in advance. I believe the Oil Control Valve (OCV) has a filter associated with it. If that filter is clogged, the OCVs may test out OK, but they may not be passing any oil (or not enough oil to function properly). Have you pulled the front valve cover to see if there is any sludge? If you see any signs of sludge, there is a good chance the OCV filter is clogged. Might not hurt to run a cycle of Auto Rx through it.

So I've heard that the locks can be set to automatically lock at a certain speed (or possibly when the car is started). I am also guessing that they can be set to unlock when the car is put in park or shut off or something to the like. Aside from this, what else can be customized?

I might let the pros handle that one for several reasons: 1) If you don't do it exactly right, it won't line up properly withthe body and may not close propery. 2) I wouldn't want to risk any spark drilling metal near the gas tank vapors Shouldn't that be covered by your corrosion warranty? Your car is only 4 years old at this point.

If the icon is changing, it shows that the controller is trying to switch, but it sounds like the mechanical portion is not following suit. I am guessing that somewhewre attached to the back of the unit is a motorized lever that actuates the air direction flap (or whatever it's called). It is remotely possible there is an obstruction, but with the age of the car, it is also possible that the unit is shot. I don't know if it can be repaired or if it will have to be replaced entirely. You should be able to get a good deal on a used one from a salvaged vehicle. In either case, you're going to have to take the dash apart to get to it.

IS300 wasn't made in the 1990's. They are not the same and the springs won't work. You may be able to find springs for a 96 Camry. A question though - why would you want to lower your Lexus? You'll kill the excellent ride quality.

Do what the poster in the RX forum suggested and disconnect the harness at the ABS unit if you can't take out the fuse.

There shouldn't be a screw on it. I am assuming that you tried rocking it slightly back and forth while pulling. Is there a plastic clip on the side(s)?

Who is "they" - the dealership? Did this problem just start? I might look to see if something was disconnected first. DCFish may be able to help you out w/ a Navi unit for less.

You should be getting some sort of ABS or TRAC light if the ABS is engaging while braking. Chances are you probably have a warped rotor.

Is the climate in auto mode? Can you switch to mix (dash and floor vents)? Does the indicator show that the floor vents should be on? Performance chips won't do anything for your '92.

Try using a flathead screwdriver to slide betwen the frame of the sub and the rear deck. Twist it slightly to provide some lift and it should come up.

As was mentioned - warped rotor is the most likely cause. Typically you will feel the vibration transfer through the steering wheel if it is one of the front rotors.

You could try the other "Club" forum, but it is the same in the ES model. The ES is more of a "Country Club Cruiser" as my friends would say so there isn't too much activity here. It is driven mostly by older people and/or people that can afford to have someone else work on their cars. You'll get more of the "I had that problem and my mechanic replaced ABC part" than the DIY posts here. I had a Passat (and an Audi A4) and I can attest to the activity in VW forums. (Thank God there are good VW forums or I would have been hosed). My take on it is that VWs have so many more mechanical and electrical problems when compared to Lexus so naturally there are going to be more posts and therefore more activity on the VW forums. VW's tend to be driven by younger drivers who are more internet savy and who are also concerned with performance and appearance "mods" where this crowd seems to prefer stock. With a few exceptions, these cars are pretty much bulletproof and driven mostly by people that don't do their own work on cars so the activity level is a lot less over here when compared to VW. That aside, the information base here is good and if you are patient, there are good replies by members on this forum. There are also some DIY posts here and alot of knowledge. Don't give up on us, but be patient.

Step 1 - Purchase new Navigation DVD disc from reliable source. 2009 version is now available Step 2 - Open DVD drive cover in dash Step 3 - Eject old disc Step 4 - Insert new disc Step 5 - Enjoy new navigation update

I'm not sure what planet you are living on, but most dealers on Earth charge a fee for any service that they perform on your car. Our local dealer has a programming rate and it most certainly isn't free. If you buy a new or used car from the dealer and ask for these settings to be made at the time of purchase that's one thing, but good luck getting that for free after the fact.

Go for it. I like fogs 1 of 2 ways - exact same color as the headlamps or bright yellow. If you have Silverstar headlamps, get Silverstar fogs to match, etc. I want to replace mine as well, but I'll probably never be able to match the factory HIDs color in a non-HID white bulb, so I'll probably go w/ some sort of yellow (LEDs maybe?)

After a little investigation today, I discovered that the mechanism was rubbing on the rubber boot that shields the column as it penetrates the firewall. A little grease and problem solved.

I am experiencing what I think is a rubbing when I turn the wheel. When I make a turn in either direction passing through the 10:30 position at the top, I feel and hear a rubbing in the steering column. Is there anything in the steering column that can be lubricated.

No problem. Mechanically, it's pretty basic and once you get everythig apart its easy to put it back together.

I apologize in advance for the lack of detailed pictures in this write-up, I was working solo and my camera battery died about ½ way through so some shots are missing. This should at least provide a decent start to those of you who need to repair or replace a subwoofer. Although photos show a Gen IV ES, this process is identical in generation 2 cars ('92-'96) except for the LATCH bar. (I should know – I did it for my ’95 too). You also don’t have to remove the seatbelt anchors/bolts in Gen II as you can slide the shoulder belts around the sides of the back seat before removing it. Gen III ('97-'01) cars should be similar to Gen II. WARNING: This procedure as I will describe it involves working on the SAFETY BELT and LATCH restraint systems on your car. Perform this procedure at your own risk knowing that you will be responsible for the results. If you do not feel comfortable performing this on your own, please have a trained professional to do it for you. Now with that out of the way here goes: TOOLS: 10mm, 12mm, & 14mm sockets, socket extender and/or flex head socket wrench, screw driver, needle nose pliers. INSTRUCTIONS: 1) Move both front seats and tilt the seatbacks as far forward as you can to allow you as much room as possible in the back to work. 2) The rear bench is attached using a “tab in slot” type of mechanism. There is a looped metal wire that locks the bench into the tab as shown in the picture below. To remove the bench, place both hands under the bench approx 4” on either side of the center of the driver’s side rear seat (not the center of the rear seat itself, but the center of the driver’s side seat depression). Lift using moderate pressure until you feel/hear the pop of the tab coming loose. Move to the other side and do the same. With both tabs released, you should be able to slightly lift and pull the bench towards the front of the car. When the back comes loose, remove it from the car. 3) Next comes the back cushion. This part is more of a PITA. At the bottom of the rear seatback are 4 wire loops that look like upside down “U”s, one on each end and two in the center on either side of the armrest. These are bolted to the frame on the ends and to the LATCH anchor bars in the center. Remove these 4 bolts (12mm I think). 4) Slightly lift the seatback forward and remove the nuts that hold the passenger side LATCH anchor bar to the frame (12mm). You do not need to remove the driver's side LATCH anchor bar. 5) Now remove the bolts that secure all 3 rear seatbelt strap anchors (the brass ones in the picture) to the frame (14mm). The center one will also have a buckle as part of it. You do not need to remove the other buckles. Now you’re ready to take out the seatback. 6) Now the fun part: On the back of the seat are 3 rounded metal loop/hooks similar to the ones that hold the bottom cushion in place. The shape is similar to an inverted "L" and they are inserted downward into tabs that lock it into place. These need to be lifted out of the tabs (approx 3”) before the seatback will come out. Here’s how to do it - With 2 hands cupped underneath, pull the seatback bottom towards the front of the car slightly (so the bottom is 2-5” out) and lift up and push at an angle following the angle of the seatback like you are trying to lift it into the top of the rear window. Once you lift the tabs clear, pull the top towards you and it should detach. This is the most difficult part and a lot of things can give you resistance. Watch out as the 2 side lower retaining clips/tabs on the bottom of the seatback (the ones you removed the bolts from initially) will tend to get caught on the plastic trim preventing you from pulling the seat forward before lifting. After that minor challenge, the tension on the seatbelts will want to hold it down and keep you from lifting. This part would be much easier with 2 people on this step. Once off, position it flat (where the bottom cushion would normally be) so you can work on top of it. 7) The rear deck lid is made up of a flimsy particle board covered with foam and upholstery. For those of you with the rear sunshade like me, removing the rear deck will not affect the sunshade as the sunshade is not attached to the deck. The deck has the rigidity of cardboard & will flex. There are plastic friction clips in it that secure it to the rear metal frame deck. Lift slightly in the center of the deck and work your flat hand under the deck near the subwoofer cover. Keeping the hand flat against the deck, slowly work your way towards the right until you feel the first clip (about 4”-5” off the front and 5”-6” to the right of the sub. Give slight upward pressure on the clip by slowly cyrling your hand into a fist and the clip will detach. Keep going until you find the other clips. Do the same for the other side. Remove rear deck and position accordingly keeping in mind the seatbelts are feeding through it. I didn't fully remove the deck, I just lifted the first retaining tabs on either side and worked under it while keeping it supported on each side with 2 pieces of scrap wood. This gave me enough room to work without having to remove the deck. 8) There are 4 bolts that attach the sub. Remove them (10mm). On the passenger side of the subwoofer, there is a plug-in connection to power the sub. Unplug the body side of the harness from the sub. In the trunk shot above (view from inside the trunk looking up at the rear deck), you can see the plastic clip that holds the sub side harness wire against the deck. Use needlenose and pinch the spring tabs inward as you push it upward from the trunk side into the cabin side to release it (You need to do it this way to avoid damage to the wires by pulling on them to remove it from the top). Now the sub is ready to be removed. It will probably seem stuck to the deck. Slide a flat head screwdriver under and turn slowly on edge to pry it up. You can also remove the support ring. 9) Repair speaker or replace with an aftermarket (you’re on your own here). My foam was torn around the outer edge where it attaches to the frame. I re-glued mine with a flexible contact cement. Time will tell how long the repair will last. I may end up re-foaming it down the line. 10) TEST! This is a point to check your work. If you make a repair or replacement, I would suggest testing it before you put everything back together. Also check the rear sunshade operation after getting the deck back on, but before putting the seat back together. Trust me - you don't want to have to take it apart again. Don't want to find that the repair is not working or the sunshade is catching once you've got the seats back in. 11) Put everything together in reverse order. 12) Check and re-check the seat belt anchors and LATCH anchor bar connections. It took me about 30 minutes to get the rear seatback off and another 15 +/- to get the sub out from there working solo. It probably took me 30 minutes total to get everything back into place once I repaired the speaker. Take your time and be careful. Good luck and I'll try to answer any questions. - Brandon