branshew

Given the known sludge issue with that engine, why would you run it at longer than recommended OCIs? Even with a full syn regimen, I wouldn't take the chance.

I am a little dissapointed in what I found today when I took out the sub (I'll post a DIY once I can get pictures together). The subwoofer has a paper cone and low quality foam surround (which was torn). The cardboard dome in the center is starting to detach from the cone. I'm no audio engineer, but we're dealing with a moving vehicle here that is exposed to forces of motion and extreme temperature fluctuations. Seems to me that would require something more durable. With all of the advances of materials science in the last 2 decades, I would have thought that ML would have made a better showing. At this point. I'm not sure that what I am seeing is worth the time and effort of re-foaming. I think I am going to re-glue the tear. I'll put it in and test it before re-assembling everything. If it sounds decent and can handle a little volume I'll let it fly.

Amp problem. Check the fuse.

Thanks. Interesting that the used ones I have seen on eBay are more expensieve than new. I was going to try to pull the rear deck this weekend to get access to the speaker. It may just be the foam surround that is dryrotted or torn (which is a good possibility based on what I am hearing). If so, I'll get a $20 repair kit and fix it. I'll try to remember to post some DIY info.

Wow! I remember when my dad bought his '89 LS400 and it doesn't seem that long ago. He had cadillacs and a merc before that car and one he bought it, he never drove anything else again. He has had 2 other LS400s, a LS430, and probably an LS460 within the next year or so. When I look at the picture from '89, it doesn't look that dated.

My Mark Levinson sub is blown (or so it sounds). Everyone on eBay is asking $350+ for a used replacement. I'm not sure that the sound quality is really that good (or could ever really be that good inside a moving vehicle) to warrant that kind of price on a used ML sub. Unless there is a reason not to, I was going to look aftermarket for a used one. My questions are this: 1) Where is the amp located? (I want to confirm I don't have a loose wire or something else) 2) What Ohm rating is the factory ML sub? 3) What RMS wattage should I use on a replacement 4) Any thoughts or recommendations on a decent replacement?

Far be it from me to tell you how to spend your money, but I personally wouldn't spend $5000 to "pimp" a $3000 car that will be worth $2000 in a year from now. You'd be better off putting that money into some type of investment. But if you insist, I'm sure the boys at Lextasy would be glad to have your hard earned money.

Based on the fact that the roof sinks in, I would say that it is off track at the least. It may also need a new belt or motor. Most metro areas have a shop that specializes in sunroof installation and repair. I would ask around to see who specializes in that and take your car to them for an estimate. They should be able to give you a worst case estimate.

But you didn't say whether or not that fixed the problem.

None of those codes seems related to a transmission problem. On the code side - it could be a faulty coolant temp sensor.

I wouldn't replace it with the one from an automatic. The Auto has the PRND21 indicator on it. Look on eBay here or do a search as there are several people that offer a complete refurb, including lights and stuck or non-functioning needles. I took the one out of my LS a few years ago to have the needles re-done. You can drive around without it for a few days while the work is being done.

It's hard to say what's broken from your description. If you can hear faint music, my first thought is that the head unit is still sending out a pre-amplified signal and the amplifier is broken and not boosting it. This would necessitate the amp being replaced. You could test with an aftermarket amp if you have access to one before buying another amp, but chances are it isn't going to be plug and play with the existing wiring harness. If you intend to keep everything stock, I would just replace it. Yes, you'll need to remove the passenger seat to check/replace the amp. An alternate guess is that the vol control knob is broken (bad rheostat) and that it can't be turned up which means that you need a new head unit.

I would feel more comfortable recommending that you use Auto Rx. I've used it with success in the past to stop a leak on my Audi A4. It conditions seals and cleans up sludge.

Welcome to the club. I used to have a '95 ES. How much of a DIY person are you? It could be a loose wire in the head unit or bad rheostat on the volume control, but more likely, the amp or head unit is shot. Could be tough to diagnose - especially if you don't have test equipment or electrical system knowledge. You could probably get both parts on eBay for not too much. If all controls on the head unit seem to work and you can hear a faint sound, I'd probably look to replace the amp first. (For the life of me - I can't remember where the amp is located)

Interesting update - I took the navi disc (same version as mine) out of another Lexus and I put it into my DVD unit as a test to help me isolate the problem. Everything came up just fine and I was able to input an address. I took the borrowed disc out and put my old one back in and I am now able to input an address, mark points, etc. with the old disc in. Seems like it just needed a little kick start... I'll leave it as is for now and see how long it lasts, but it's good to know that it was a problem with the disc and not with the navi unit itself.

It would help if you put a little more detail into your description of the problem. Is it the mirror glass or the entire housing that is moving?

I may have access to a 2.1 nav cd that I can try in my drive to eliminate the disc as the problem. I pulled mine out and there was a groove worn in it and when i put it into my laptop, I couldn't read some of the files. I am somewhat hesitant to try the cleaning as I have read that the older nav units laser drive motors to go out eventually. I don't want to put any stress on it yet. I am also wondering what would have caused the groove and wheter or not that may eventually happen to a new disc. I'll post results as soon as I can.

Looking to buy a Gen 2/3 Navi disc for a 2002 ES300. My disc is scratched and I need a replacement. Prefer version 5.1 or later, but if you have 2.1 - 4.1 for a good price I would consider it just to be oerational again. Please e-mail me at my user id @yahoo.com.

I can press the Address button, and it beeps to indicate that I have touched it, but it doesn't change screens to bring up the keyboard so I can input the address. It seems like a software problem. How does the nav work? Is there software/firmware inside the drive unit or is the OS on the DVD? Is it possible to re-boot or reload the OS? Will a more recent DVD have a newer OS on it? I was considering getting a more recent DVD version, but I don't want to spend the money on it if I have another issue going on that needs fixing first.

No. I should have clarified. I thought that I had updated the profile previously. I am looking for a replacement key for a 2002 ES300. I believe that the key is the same as the 2001 LS430 key that my dad has. I am wondering whether I can use the transponder/remote part and have it programmed to my car (and put it in a new eBay shell w/ a blank key to be cut to match).

I have one master remote key and I need to get another key made. The dealer wants $300 for the key and programming. I haven't called around to local locksmith shops yet, but I would imagine that someone around here could program a new transponder key. My dad has an old transponder remote key from a car that he no longer has (same style/key length from a LS430). I wanted to know if I could get that transponder and remote programmed to my car (and put that remote/transponder unit in a new eBay shell w/ blank key). Thoughts?

I agree w/ George Jetson. If it was white smoke, I could understand the head work as it would indicate coolant being burned off, but that doesn't sound like your problem so I'm unsure why the head work was done. Burning oil typically isn't a head problem. Gray smoke is typically oil burning or possibly excess fuel being burned (running rich) or fuel being pushed into the cat and being burned off there. As GJ mentioned, I would check the FPR vac lines. It is possible that you have oil slipping past worn piston rings.

I've been puttering around with the new ride for a few days and I have started toying around with the Navi. I was going to input my home address as the pre-set home, but it seems as though I can't input an address. I am following the manual page by page. When I go to the settings page and choose the option to set my home point it shifts to another screen with Address, POI, etc listed (to give me a choice of how I want to input the Home point). I press the "Address" icon and it beeps to confirm the selection, but the screen doesn't change to where I can input an address. It h=just stays where it is. I also don't see a map or region and the "Change" button is missing on the screen (I am basing this off of what I see on the screen shots in the manual). I get the same thing if I go to enter an address as a destination for route guidance. The car was originally used in a different geographic map zone before I bought it. Do I need to re-load the Navi DVD (it is still the original 2001 version) or do I have something else going on. Is there a way to do a master re-set?

I wish it was the same color too. Not that I don't like silver, but it seems like it is the most popular color out there these days. The dark cherry would look much better in the parking lot at a pre-game tailgate in Blacksburg.

Thank you sir. I believe that it does have the VSC option