jzz30

if you all are really complaining about parts cost then you have the wrong car. if still want to keep some of the best cars in the world then find a way to make an account with lexus. you get 25% off. i have one! :P

you may have done a lot of damage. how much gas did you put in? how big was the can? do you have preasure gauges?

you just go down to the dealer and ask for the kit and seal, you state the car model and year and they usually have it in stock,usually. when you take appart the compressor you need to be very careful that you dont not get anything inside the compressor cause its like a ten cylinder machining marvel

ok tell me first what you have done to your car to retrofit to 134a. you didnt just drain the gas on a perfectly good system and try to sitck in 134a did you?

the reason those bottles only cost 4 bucks is that you need a lot of them to fill up the system. the purpouse of those bottles is to fill up a system that still blows cold air but not as cold as before. plus a garage knows how much to put in and you can blame them if it blows up. r12 is not made anymore in the US. places like china still do but you can not bring it in to the US or other affiliated countries. originaly DuPont made the gas called freon and named it other companies can make freon and sell it but just not under the name of freon unless i guess they pay up some dough you can still get r12 because alot of it does still exist but only what is still left. and because of that their is a big price gap between say 134a and r12 most of the time the difference is about 100 bucks.

the reason those bottles only cost 4 bucks is that you need a lot of them to fill up the system. the purpouse of those bottles is to fill up a system that still blows cold air but not as cold as before. plus a garage knows how much to put in and you can blame them if it blows up. r12 is not made anymore in the US. places like china still do but you can not bring it in to the US or other affiliated countries. originaly DuPont made the gas called freon and named it other companies can make freon and sell it but just not under the name of freon unless i guess they pay up some dough you can still get r12 because alot of it does still exist but only what is still left. and because of that their is a big price gap between say 134a and r12 most of the time the difference is about 100 bucks.

ok you probablu dont need a new compressor like in most cases. try and look on the bottom side of you compressor ( if your facing the car i think its on the bottom right side) in any case you need to get under your car. look to see if the bottom of your compressor has a dark oily patch of road dust. that usualy indicats a leak from the compressor shaft seal. what you need is the rebuild kit and copressor shaft seal for your compressor and all of the new o rings for the system about$200 the reason why every one just sais you need to get a new compressor is that its about 8-900 bucks and about 40% or more if not less is profit. now you probably need another compressor clutch to quiet your a/c when it engages and thats another$200 but its not needed at this point because it can always be changed later as youu do not need to open the a/c system to change it. so change all the seals and get a freshfill of r12 because it is just so much better.

no you shouldnt go and get a recharge. what you should do is change all the seals around the a/c system and get a rebuild kit and a a/c compressor shaft seal all that will probably run you about $200 a/c compressors can be found for much less that$1200 if you want to get a new one but i doubt you need one many cars use the same compressor as the one in your car its a nippon denso compressor although there are many kinds they are found in toyotas of course and also suprisingly in some domestic cars. ok the reason you should change all the seals first is that your a/c system is completely or almost completely out of freon. and the depressurisation can cause additonal leaks. and after you have changed all of that then you should just get some dye put in, get a good overnight vacum, and a fresh fill of r12 because its just colder in the old systems and you wont have any more sticky situations

i havent had this problem but see if anything is jammed down there to prevent your seat from moving. im not sure if the seat uses 2 motors to move but if it does then a motor might be out and those motors can cost some high dollars :(

if your timing belt is cracked then that means that you need to change it immidiately

how far do you want to take your mods? if you just want to do the normal bolt ons like intake, exhaust, ignition and cams then i dont think it will be a problem but like mr.pacoson said you should check out the situation that your car is in before you start to turbo things. and theres always 1000 shot of nos if you really want to break things! :P

yea its true that you need to use a PAG oil when you change over and try to always use a new bottle because PAG oil sucks water and water is not good.

once your a/c is retrofitted you can try and use those sealers to stop the leak if your a/c is already blowing hot air.

my cousin works in the prototype industry for cars making new model dash gausge clusters, headlights, and so on and he told me that there are rumors of a production is 400 of 430 and it might even be a wide body but this is only a rumor nor did i wright this but seriously this is a real rumor

i might be wrong but isnt that switch to enable or disable your remote key?

the newest gen 430 has the lowest claim probably to keep it a ulev emissions car i remember car and driver/ road and track saying that. plus its electronicaly limited (I think)

hey try and change the compressor clutch its like 200bucks and it quieted eveything down on mine if it works i hope you can return that compressor!

sorry i just had to do that but you can try ask the dealer if they can get one for you :D

japan?

i think its 134a or the one you saw was different. the first gen LS was filled with r12 but newer gens came with the 134a because it is believed to be environmentaly friendly. if the conversion is a real conversion than thats cheap! but is your a/c busted :( the reason auto makers used r12 was that it was an efficient gas to work with but efficient isnt always friendly to our good old planet. so if you want to convert and want to have your a/c as cold as it was with r12 you need some upgraded parts to make your a/c ice cold.

if you have access try and pick up an OPTION magazine if a big book store you know has one. In that i found a company that makes a mitsubishi evo style hood for the jzz30 the company is called...wait ..im looking.....oh here it is have you ever heard of the company VARIS? they have three choises from carbon kevlar,corbon, and fiberglass. they claim a 16.2kg weight reduction from 26.6kg stock with the carbon. prices are roughly$1000 for the ckfrp, 750for the cfrp and 600 for the frp. try their web site @ www.varis.co.jp if you have a japanese connection then thats perfect!......if you like the look.

on your engine there should be two belts and one you can see just by opening the hood. the one that runs your alternator, p/s pump, a/c etc. is the serpentine belt that can break and it can cause minor damage to your engine compartment. to see your timing belt you need to take off spark plug covers but before you can do that you should disconnect your battery and then wait i think it was 20 seconds. then you can take off your intake incuding your mass air flow sensor. then drain your radiator and take out your fan assembly and radiator. this will give you a lot of room to work on your engine and helps to keep you from damaging your $400 radiator. I havent done this yet to my SC 400 but i did it a few months ago on my LS 400 so it should be similar. then you loosen the tention on the serpentine belt via a tentioner you turn with a 1/2 inch breaker bar or ratchet then proceed to take off variouse covers and rubber gromets, alternator a/c compressor (dont disconnect the lines) and i think you need to take off some hydraulic fan pump parts and so on. now this is the hardest part. to get the main engine pully bolt off. but before you do that you should align your engine to top dead center. and just to make shure you get everything back in the right position you should mark the three pullies with a pen. if you dont have something to hold the crank pully what i did was put some towels in between the belt and the cam pully and if you stuff enough stuff in their, with a good breaker bar you should be able to crack that baby open. and since your throwing away that belt anyway it doesnt matter if you damage it. then another hard part getting that pully off. its best to just go out and buy a puller and a plastic face hammer to help you tap the pully on when you put it back together again. and since its all appart you might as well get a new waterpump and thermostat so it doesnt bother you. but everything back in the same order and it should be as good as new!!! but i still suggest you get the factory manuals because who can you really trust? me or the book of factory wisdom? and plus i dont have all the torque specs in my head and i dont have my manual with me at this point. hope this helps!! wow that was long!

i fly in and out of japan ......well not that much but about 4-5 times a year for vacation and what not. people i have talked to say that some supra engines just get smashed to get thrown away. but those may already just be no good already. and i looked on yahoo auctons japan and they range from $10-1500 roughly some with turbos, ecu and wiring harness too. they are fairly low mileage due to costs to keep the car for over4-5 years, around 45000km about 30000miles? something like that.

well....... you have seen those comercials right? :D jk

have you tried changing the ball joints?