jzz30

good work! i know this is a bit late but the motor runs ultra smooth if you change those idler bearings and any other pully stuff in the components belt area. i hope you changed those, i did on mine and it made a huge difference!. props again for the extra work and dedication! you should be awarded a free gold member subscription;)

you must smell raw fuel coming out of the exhaust too right? you problem most likely is the ignition coil is bad. i had the same problem with my sc400. in the morining the car started up fine, and i drove out of the driveway and got out of the car to go put mail in the mail box. and when i got back in the idle was rough and when i gave gas the tach dropped to zero and it sounded as if the car was running on half the cylinders. and they were. changed plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, that didnt fix the problem so i swapped out coils from my LS and it ran perfectly, so i found that the secondary coil was out. was 80 bucks at the dealer.

both TOM's and blitz make blowers for the 430 they make about +-100hp to the wheels but its 10 grand just for the kit.

well the thing is that you need to trick the car in to thinking that the suspension is higher than it really is so that it lowers it self to compensate for the extra hight. so what you have to do is shorten the arms equally on all 4 sides. but how you do that is up to you. and in japan they sell ride height controllers but i dont know if you can get that in the states or if it wires up the same .

dont forget that our forum also has a tutorial section with the how to rebuild too. and its by me;)

well first see if some cleaner wax will take it off if it doesnt then use some 2000 grit sand paper and a sanding block and slowly try to sand only the paint once you hit black paint just use some rubbing compund to polish the sanded paint and its should be better than new! as for tar you can try use WD40 or something of that nature like an oil to kind of rub out the tar. armorall sells a tar remover if the WD doesnt work but its almost the same thing

97 or newer right? anyway they fit right up but something with the harness is different so you get a tail lamp out light in your dash but you can just ignore it or pull out the bulb. dont know how to fix the harness problem because i didnt do that to mine yet but i want to. but my friend has done it and his car show that light.

time to change the gear but you probably have to buy the motor too so its a bit pricy

i think your drive shaft may need to be cut or lengthened and between the two the supra diff might be better for everyday driving.

i posted a topic called "budget hid" a couple of weeks ago i will update it with pics soon because i have done the repairs needed to my car.

if you mod like forced induction then you wont get the mileage you want.

well the throttle body runs coolant through it and the throttle body is above the middle spark plugs, and you take the throttle body off to change plugs. water could have gotten around the plugs while puting things back together or a leak could have developed from a hose or something in that area.

92 lex: did this happen as soon as you changed plugs? because i had someone change to iridium plugs and the car wouldnt idle, and as soon as he put the original stuff back in the car ran fine. another possibility is that your ignition coil is gone. any friends with the same car? you can try change out and see if that solves it.

is your idle really low and rough? and can you smell raw fuel coming out of the exhaust?

someone has not heard of something called the merc S600. twin turbo V12 need i say more? ;) did i mention it has 6 litres? :D

it might be the ignition coil

try looking at the rack bushings. mine were totaly gone.

maybe the car is in failsafe mode for some reason. try disconnect the efi fuse or just disconnect the battery for a minuite.

the thing is the manufacturer does cut the rotor so that it is true but by the time it gets to you people have thrown them around and that can warp your rotor. its not the manufacures fault or your fault its the people that have handled the car before. if vibration still persists than you can also check for bushing wear in the rear suspension. i had a rear trailing arm bushing go out and it acted just like you described with the moving shifter and pulsing.

yea i just took another look and i followed the manual while doing it too and thats what the manual said and it does look like you have the spring on the wrong side of the valve.

i posted a ps pump rebuild in the tutorial section. take a look ;)

yea you should change bearings at the first sign of wear because if you wait too long like me the bearing race will wear the hub and you will end up needing and new one dropping another 200 bucks for a new one.

oh yea as a result of my leaky seal my spare rim got all corroded and white scaly stuff on it. so fix it as soon as possible ;)

i would go with the teins #1 reason is because if you get the edfc you can change dampening from inside the car. and another reason is that the hks and jic can ggo out easier if you hit a big pothole, more than the teins.

well fly over there or have someone there ship it. but 2500 for just the blower. dont forget about the extra computer stuff you need for fuel enrichment.